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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist Worn & Wound
Bulgari s Octo Finissimo line Sep 18, 2025

This Isn’t Just Another Octo – This is Art for the Wrist

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has become synonymous with its technical prowess and record-breaking, ultra-thin designs (and for good reason). The collection has notched a whopping ten world records in just over a decade. However, we’ve also seen a softer side to the Octo through Bulgari’s more artistic interpretations of the iconic design.  The most well-known are likely the sketch editions. As the name suggests, these models celebrate the original sketches of the design rendered by the brand’s Product Creation Executive Director, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. Yet, these more playful and aesthetic-focused editions have also been molded through collaborations with a wide array of co-creators from architects like Kazuyo Sejima and Tadao Ando to conductors and composers like Lorenzo Viotti.  Among the Bulgari Octo mashups, the most striking have come from artists themselves. One of the earliest editions came back in 2015 with the Chinese artist Simon Ma. His collection of 13 piece unique watches explored the horse motif of the Chinese zodiac using traditional Chinese calligraphy techniques handpainted on the dial. Three years later, Bulgari enlisted the Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju to interpret a watch with his signature exploration of waterfalls. The resulting design employed mother of pearl on the dial to create a waterfall effect. Next, the Roman Maison took a more contemporary approach, tapping the Japanese artist Tatsuo Miyajima. This collaboration took a le...

Ressence Celebrates Its 15th Anniversary With An Optimistic And Human-Centric View Of The Future Fratello
Ressence Celebrates Sep 18, 2025

Ressence Celebrates Its 15th Anniversary With An Optimistic And Human-Centric View Of The Future

In 2010, industrial designer Benoît Mintiens started a company called Ressence. His mission was to create a mechanical watch that could tell people the time in the most user-friendly way possible. Now, 15 years later, the brand’s watches are still in a league of their own, both in terms of design and the mechanics behind […] Visit Ressence Celebrates Its 15th Anniversary With An Optimistic And Human-Centric View Of The Future to read the full article.

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Sep 17, 2025

Casio AQ-230 Review: The Minimalist Ana-Digi Watch

When you think of Casio watches, one inevitably goes to digital classics like the F-91W, A168, AE-1200, or the G-Shock line. The Casio AQ-230 is the odd exception, in that it’s almost a minimalist dress watch intended to slip under a cuff. It’s also been around for over 30 years now, so it has to be doing something right.The Casio AQ-230 is the quintessential under-the-radar piece that doesn’t shout "digital watch" too loudly. The cleanly minimal, ana-digi design is thoughtful in ways that I appreciate but are subtle. For example, the analog hands never touch the digital LCD screen. The AQ-230 was released all the way back in 1995 as a follow-up to the old Casio Janus AQ-200 from 1982. The design was almost completely unchanged, other than the addition of another pusher on the left side of the case and a slimmer case width. Naturally, the AQ-230 stands out from other Casio watches due to its slightly “dressier” appearance and aesthetic. I have heard some people say it’s Casio's version of the Cartier Tank - which sounds a little outlandish but kind of checks out once you think about it. Casio AQ-230 Case and Bracelet This is a quintessentially unisex case size, coming in at 29.8mm wide, 8.1mm thick, and 38.8mm tall (with 30 meters of water resistance). This may sound a little small and, honestly, it is. But that’s not a bad thing, especially considering the rectangular case shape. The Cartier Tank Louis in the large case size measures 27.8mm wide and 38.1mm...

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection Incl Video Sep 17, 2025

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video)

Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R; is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked […]

Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm in Empire Green Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm Sep 17, 2025

Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Skeleton 40mm in Empire Green

The Jazzmaster collection, and specifically the Skeleton editions, has earned its place as one of Hamilton‘s distinctive designs, offering a view into the beating heart of a modern automatic movement. It’s a design that balances Hamilton’s classic dress-watch DNA with a contemporary twist. Over the years, the model has appeared in several dial colours, case […]

Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time Fratello
Sep 17, 2025

Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time

Let me make one thing clear: when I say that elegant watches are on the rise, I’m not referring to timepieces designed under the rule of restrained minimalism. Elegance doesn’t have to be quiet and introverted. Au contraire, swooping shapes, curvy lines, and delicate patterns are often outspoken, but the tone of voice prevents them […] Visit Elegant Watches Are On The Rise, And It’s About Time to read the full article.

First Look – The new Black DLC Titanium Edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sep 15, 2025

First Look – The new Black DLC Titanium Edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

The Octo Finissimo collection by Bulgari doesn’t need an introduction anymore. One of the few emblematic lineups to have surfaced over the last decade, the OF has become the king of ultra-thin watchmaking, beating one record of thinness after another. But Bulgari’s slim-fit watch is more than just its slender profile and complex movements. It […]

Introducing – Briston Unveils the new Clubmaster Legend Classic Collection Monochrome
Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – Briston Unveils the new Clubmaster Legend Classic Collection

Briston, the young, independent French brand with a portfolio of accessible, retro-inspired watches with fun, faux tortoiseshell cases, releases new models in its Clubmaster Legend collection. Presented in the classic cushion-shaped cases that define the collection, the new time-only references feature closed dials or open-heart designs, delivering an appealing blend of vintage design cues and […]

Introducing – British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III Monochrome
Farer Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III

Farer, a British indie brand, debuted in 2015 with watches designed in London and produced in Switzerland. With an extensive portfolio ranging from characterful three-handers to GMTs, as well as chronographs, integrated sports watches, and compressor-style dive watches, the brand’s keen eye for design is paying off. Coupled with its direct-to-consumer business model, which eliminates intermediaries, prices […]

The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles Fratello
Hermes Sep 13, 2025

The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles

The Hermès H08 is a remarkable success story. Emerging from the traditional and complex designs of the maison’s catalog, the cushion-shaped H08 in titanium seamlessly cut through the crowd. And the sports-watch segment is indeed crowded. Yet, the H08 takes the history of the brand’s multifaceted design approach and boils it down into a wearable […] Visit The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles to read the full article.

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Berneron Sep 12, 2025

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)

The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...

Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package Fratello
Sep 12, 2025

Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package

Echo/Neutra has been carving out its little corner of the watch world since 2018. The brand’s founders, Nicola Callegaro and Cristiano Quaglia, blend Italian design sensibilities with Swiss-made execution, and the catalog has steadily grown from vintage-inspired field watches to elegant titanium dress pieces. The new Averau 42, however, is a different beast altogether. It’s […] Visit Introducing: The Echo/Neutra Averau 42 - Ceramic Meets Titanium In A Tool-Ready Package to read the full article.

Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Sep 12, 2025

Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218

There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model Fratello
Gerald Charles Sep 11, 2025

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model

Gerald Charles introduces a colorful twist on its emblematic design with the Masterlink Gem-Set. For the very first time, the maison embraces gemsetting, bringing bright colors to the asymmetric case and integrated bracelet that define the model. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set comes in three versions, each limited to 10 pieces. Join me for […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem-Set - A Colorful Take On The Brand’s Emblematic Model to read the full article.

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Sep 11, 2025

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...

Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 10, 2025

Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch

As the world of dive watches continues to grow, it’s easy to get stylistically complacent. We see similar colors, dial and case design, and construction techniques. So when a dive watch comes along that looks out of the norm, it’s an exciting prospect. Cue the Papar Cenote, a first in the dive category for the upstart brand. Like their first watch, the Anillo GMT, the Cenote is an aesthetic break from the norm that challenges the conventions of the diver category. As a reflection of the brand and its founder Josh Blank’s roots in both the US and Mexico, The Cenote draws visual inspiration and its nomenclature from the cenotes of Mexico’s Yucatán. The octagonal titanium case features sharp angles and a 40mm diameter, and measures in at 47mm lug-to-lug with a 10.9mm thickness. A ceramic bezel insert offers functionality, and a sailcloth strap with a matching titanium buckle adds a final touch of cohesiveness to the design.  The dial, though, holds the Cenote’s coolest feature. The indices appear as cutouts, a crescent moon with end tips pointing up marks the 12 o’clock position, and the hour and minute hands are sharp triangles. The wow factor is more than just cool design, though: the indices change color over the course of the month, giving the Cenote a continuously dynamic appearance.  Two colorways are available for the Cenote, in a limited run of 100 watches. The first option, Rose Gold Titanium, features a starkly appealing combo of rose gold PVD coating...

Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions Fratello
Sep 9, 2025

Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions

When my eyes first caught a glimpse of the Beda’a Angles in the late summer of last year, I was immediately intrigued. The watch features a classic case shape but doesn’t feel retro. Instead, it feels like a next step in the development of modern dress watches. Notably, though, the inaugural Angles collection was a […] Visit Beda’a Unveils The Beautiful Angles Mecaline In Two Versions to read the full article.

Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Since Sep 8, 2025

Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic

Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” Sep 8, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer

Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer TAG Heuer Sep 6, 2025

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...