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Fratello
This year is a special one for TAG Heuer. After more than two decades, 2025 marks the brand’s return as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1. Additionally, for the first time in history, the Grand Prix de Monaco will have a title sponsor. TAG Heuer will present the race and has created a new limited-edition […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf to read the full article.
Monochrome
Zenith‘s Triple Calendar model is based on the compact 38mm case of the Chronomaster Original, itself modelled after the 1969 El Primero reference A386. This reference provides a balanced and wearable foundation for a relatively complex movement. Initially launched in stainless steel (2024) and subsequently in rose gold (2025), Zenith has decided that it was […]
Fratello
The names are the same, but the looks are very different. A hands-on experience with the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph revealed strong similarities between the black-and-rose-tone model and its green sibling made of plasma high-tech ceramic. With a matte black ceramic case adorned with a rose-gold-colored PVD-coated steel turning bezel, the chronograph […] Visit Hands-On With The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph: The Brand’s First Ceramic-Cased Captain Cook Chrono to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Naoya Hida presents their most complicated watch yet, powered by a Habring and Dubois-Dépraz perpetual calendar calibre.The post Naoya Hida releases the Type 6A perpetual calendar, rivalling equivalent Patek Philippe models (at least in price) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...
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Fratello
BA111OD is a young Swiss brand with a bold mission - to bring high-end watchmaking complications like the tourbillon to enthusiasts at a far more attainable price point. Since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has gained a reputation as a rising force in contemporary Swiss independent watch brands. It blends innovation with a commitment to […] Visit BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 4 Skeleton Tourbillon Ice White to read the full article.
Fratello
What’s the best cycling stage race in the world? Don’t say it’s the Tour de France because, I’m sorry, that’s wrong. The correct answer is the Giro d’Italia, or “the world’s most beautiful bike race.” Never was a nickname so accurate. It all started in 1909, and the coming weekend sees the start of the […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” - Pretty In Pink With A Cycling Twist to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Morgan Stanley and WatchCharts data shows Rolex, Patek, AP, Omega and Cartier outperforming on secondary market
SJX Watches
One of the most beautiful, albeit not particularly novel, debuts at Watches & Wonders recently was the Patek Philippe Ref. 5370R-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph with a two-tone grand feu enamel dial in brown and cream. It’s merely a new variant of a longstanding model, but it is striking. Prior versions were in platinum with a black and then blue enamel dial; this is the first model in rose gold and perhaps the first-ever modern-day Patek Philippe with a multi-part, two-tone enamel dial. Design aside, the ref. 5370R retains the same specs and movement as its predecessors. Initial thoughts I usually don’t like brown dials, and the ref. 5370R is merely a cosmetic tweak. The movement remains the same CHR 29-535 PS that is good looking and contains some clever technical features, but its decoration could be a little more artisanal for the price. Overall, the ref. 5370R isn’t fundamentally new. And despite being in rose gold, it’s even more expensive than its predecessors in platinum, with a retail price crossing US$300,000. Being a Patek Philippe, the ref. 5370R is expensive, in the same manner that Ferrari and Hermes can charge more than the competition. But despite so much going against it, the ref. 5370R is one of the few watches that has remained in my memory in the weeks after W&W;. It is simply that beautiful. As the saying goes, if I could, I would. The new ref. 5370 looks classical yet modern, and still captures the old school Patek Philippe aesthetic. The two-ton...
Time+Tide
This historical rally sees 250 vintage race cars travel from Paris to Nice over the course of a week - and we were along for the ride.The post Time+Tide takes on Tour Auto with Baltic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Like it or not, the ‘90s are in right now, and Timex is banking on that Millennial and Gen X nostalgia with a swath of new releases. First up is the 1995 Intrepid Reissue, which harkens back to a time when the compact discs were flowing and JFK Jr. was rocking a Timex. A collaboration between Timex, Dimepiece, and foundwell, the Intrepid Reissue aims for dive functionality and retro-cool style in tandem. The Intrepid Reissue rests within a 46mm stainless steel case, giving it a full-bodied brawn that’s a little unusual for a Timex. A proper skin-diver, it offers 100 meters of water resistance, powered by a quartz movement. It also gets the full iconic INDIGLO treatment, with a full back light controlled by a dedicated pusher at the 9 o’clock position. A slide rule unidirectional top ring with logarithmic scales allows for complex calculating-something I’ve never been able to learn how to do on a watch, but am very happy to boast about to anyone who will listen. The dial of the Intrepid Reissue is a bold white, with luminous hands that make legibility a breeze, and the crown, placed unusually at 4 o’clock, adds a touch of quirky character. A synthetic rubber strap is nestled within the 22mm lug width. The contrasting black slide rule ring matches the strap, and gives the Intrepid a faux-panda colorway that is effectively stylish, especially with the small green accents of the pusher and other details. Does all this talk of diving get you excited, but you w...
SJX Watches
By some measures, Watches & Wonders 2025 was the biggest ever. Visitors rose 12% on the previous year to 55,000, and more inconveniently, the hotel room-nights were up 17% to 43,000, perhaps explaining why accommodation gets more expensive every year (but fortunately still far from the extortion of Basel). But I am certain by other measures Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was a down year. Orders by retailers for new watches are surely lower than a year before. There was an undercurrent of concern throughout the fair, even before American tariffs were announced halfway through. But as is often the case, most executives acknowledge a slowdown but predict their brand will outperform because it is better. The best of the Land-Dweller variants, the 40 mm in platinum Big and small brands One of the most interesting developments this year is the degree of novelty at big brands compared to independent watchmakers. In recent history indies tended to have the more notable creations – the F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats – but this year the opposite happened. The two best launches during W&W; season came from big brands (or at least an establishment brand owned by a big group): the Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The Land-Dweller incorporates an extraordinary number of innovations in its cal. 7135, while the Solaria is the most complicated wristwatch ever made, but importantly, it gained the title with a clev...
Worn & Wound
The post Almost Gone and at the Lowest Price Ever appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
The Patek Philippe 5370R introduces a notable addition to the brand's collection with its debut in rose gold, marking a departure from previous versions. The use of a brown Grand Feu enamel dial paired with beige champlevé enamel subdials brings a distinct and elegant color combination.
Monochrome
As the winner of the race to produce the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement in 1969, Zenith is synonymous with chronographs. Beating at a high frequency, the El Primero automatic chronograph movement set a new benchmark for precision and reliability. In light of the brand’s 160th anniversary, Zenith unveils three high-frequency chronographs – Chronomaster […]
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Worn & Wound
Reinventing the wheel can be overrated-sometimes, expanding on an already-beloved design is the best way to drum up excitement. The original Heuer Carrera-released in 1963 as Jack Heuer’s horological love letter to the 1950s Carrera Panamericana Road Race held in Mexico-would develop as a symbol of motorsports success over the following decades, frequently gifted to victorious drivers at huge events. As the current official timekeeper of Formula 1, the Swiss company is continuing that legacy of motorsports prowess with new watches in the Carrera Day-Date collection, keeping the elements that have made the watch an icon, while pushing the design ever forward. With six new models and ample features, the Day-Date collection can seem as daunting as an F1 circuit at first. Five of the models, though, are mechanically identical, with differences ranging from materials to color schemes-these are the “regular” Day-Date pieces, while the Date Twin-Time represents a distinct complication. First, let’s take a look at the new Day-Date references. Each Day-Date features a fine-brushed and polished steel 41mm case with a steel polished crown at 3 o’clock, a beveled and domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment, and a steel screw-down case back that touts a 100m water resistance. A Calibre TH31-02 automatic movement pulses inside each Day-Date, and a day-date window sits at the 3:00 position. White Super-LumiNova additionally coats the hour and mi...
SJX Watches
The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...
SJX Watches
Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...
Monochrome
The Tour Auto is the historic reincarnation of the Tour de France Automobile, a race created in 1899 by the Automobile Club de France, and French brand Baltic is the official timer of the event this year again. As with previous year’s events and ahead of the 2025 edition of this vintage car rally, which […]
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Monochrome
Sometimes, moving forward means going back to recover the good things from the past. That appears to be the case at Schwarz Etienne, a small, independent brand from La Chaux-de-Fonds that wants to raise its profile and become better known on the watch scene. Founded in 1902, the brand is now in the hands of […]
Fratello
If there is any Gallet watch that almost certainly sells for more than $10,000, it’s an early version of the Flying Officer with a black dial. Although it is a very expensive watch, proper research and documentation are limited. The details raise multiple questions. Let’s start with the basics. The Flying Officer, the most important […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Looks At The Early Flying Officer “Truman” - The Most Iconic Gallet Watch Ever Produced to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Out of the Big Three, Patek Philippe prices fell the most in both the past month and past year. Audemars Piguet prices were effectively flat in February, and Rolex prices rose very slightly.
Monochrome
In 1965, Seiko entered the race for the best dive watch, much later than the Swiss did. Seiko released its first ever dive watch, known as the 62MAS, the mother of all upcoming aquatic watches of the brand. It’s a story that we’ve told many times on MONOCHROME. What matters most today is that 2025 […]
Fratello
Breitling introduced a new perpetual calendar chronograph caliber to celebrate the brand’s 140th birthday last year. The impressive movement was featured in a trio of rose gold limited editions. Today, caliber B19 gets a permanent foothold in Breitling’s collection. This is the Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar. With such a descriptive name, I […] Visit Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum to read the full article.
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