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Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1 Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On: the Dietrich ED-1

One of the great things about the world of watches today is there’s always something out there waiting to surprise. Even as someone who spends a lot of time paying attention to this stuff, there are still brands that slip through the cracks and watches that sneak by when my head is turned. I’ll admit, Dietrich was one of those brands I had missed. Now, having spent some time with two variants of their latest release, the ED-1, I have to say I’m paying attention. Okay, I hadn’t entirely missed them, but I knew Dietrich best from their relatively conventional SD-2 Skin diver. That watch certainly stood out from the familiar onslaught of dive watches, but the structured conventions of dive watches meant the SD-2 didn’t offer the full Dietrich experience. The rounded leaf hands, sandwich dial, and ever-so-slightly hexagonal dial were enough to evoke the Dietrich ‘look,’ but at the end of the day a dive watch is a dive watch, and there’s only so much you can do without ending up with something else. The Dietrich ED-1 marks a return to the core of Dietrich watchmaking, this time with the intention of creating the “ultimate everyday watch.” As an industry, we tend to break watches into categories: dive watches, field watches, pilot’s watches, dress watches, tool watches, dressy tool watches - the list goes on. It’s a bit of a trick, one that makes it easier for both brands and journalists to communicate this intention behind a watch and establish expecta...

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Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch Monochrome
Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT Sep 11, 2024

Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch

Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different watches, all created with specific professional applications in mind. Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Citizen […]

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The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Sep 11, 2024

The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. Dive watches possess a sort of primordial appeal. Dating back to the 1950s, they were invaluable tools for early divers to monitor their dive time. But what makes a dive watch a dive watch? It varies depending on who you ask, but the International Organization for Standards (ISO) 6425 standard provides a perfect starting point. Per ISO, a dive watch must: a) be water-resistant to at least 100, b) possess a method of tracking dive time, c) must show that time in resolution of no larger than minutes over the span of an hour, plus a litany of other tests to achieve ISO 6425 certification. In today’s Chronicle, we’re doing a deep dive into our picks for the five best dive watches for a new enthusiast. The post The Top 5 Dive Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 appeared first o...

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Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Monochrome
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]

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Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy Monochrome
Sep 11, 2024

Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Stairway to Heaven HMS Wavy

ArtyA was founded by Yvan Arpa in 2010, making a name for itself with avant-garde models often incorporating unconventional materials like bullets or butterfly wings. However, over time, ArtyA has matured to produce more restrained and elegant skeletonised movements, often housed in transparent sapphire crystal cases and featured in the brand’s Purity collection. For Geneva […]

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Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 Fratello
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 Sep 11, 2024

Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053

Seiko’s Prospex range is rapidly growing and not just with dive watches. After last week’s introduction of the new Marinemasters, we are now treated to two Speedtimer chronographs. The new SRQ051 and SRQ053 might look familiar. That’s because, last November, we saw two Speedtimer models inspired by the same 1972 Seiko chronograph as these watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ051 And SRQ053 to read the full article.

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First Look – Two New Editions of the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph Monochrome
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph Seiko’s Sep 11, 2024

First Look – Two New Editions of the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph

Seiko’s involvement in chronographs is far more prominent than many would imagine. While the brand’s significance regarding dive watches is indisputable, Seiko has also left its mark on stopwatches. Remember that in 1969, it was part of a trio that presented the first automatic chronograph movements with a watch named the Speedtimer. Last year, the […]

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Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Worn & Wound
Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Many are Sep 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11

Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...

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First Look – The Red Dial Version of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen Monochrome
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph Sep 10, 2024

First Look – The Red Dial Version of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen

Montblanc pays tribute to Italian alpinist Reinhold Messner, one of the world’s greatest high-altitude mountaineers. As the first person to summit all the 14 eight-thousanders, Montblanc celebrates the legendary alpinist’s 80th birthday with a limited edition of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen. Offering world time and chronograph functions, the new crackled red dial is […]

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Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 Fratello
Seiko Line - SJE103 SJE105 Sep 10, 2024

Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107

Seiko introduces three new dial variants to its higher-end King Seiko models. These are last year’s SJE089/SJE091 under the hood but with fancy new dial textures and colors. This pushes them a bit further away from their austere 1965 KSK ancestor and into modern territories. Today, Seiko releases a lavender (SJE107), blue (SJE105), and red […] Visit Introducing: Three New Dial Options In The King Seiko Line - SJE103, SJE105, And SJE107 to read the full article.

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The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

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The Apple Watch Series 10 is (Almost) Here Worn & Wound
Sep 9, 2024

The Apple Watch Series 10 is (Almost) Here

Every year, for the last ten years(!) Apple has held a press event at their Cupertino, CA headquarters to highlight the launch of a new Apple Watch (and new iPhones, Air Pods, and iOS advancements). It’s kind of hard to believe that the Apple Watch, a device that some said years ago could spell the literal death of the watch industry, has been around for a full decade. The supposed takeover of smartwatches was always a little overblown, I think. At the end of the day, they simply aren’t luxury products, and thus don’t really compete with most mechanical watches. It’s been interesting to observe over this ten year period, in fact, how many watch enthusiasts have embraced the Apple Watch. We have, at any given time, multiple double wristers in our own Worn & Wound offices. This shouldn’t really be all that surprising, though. The Apple Watch, from the very beginning, has taken cues from the world of traditional watchmaking, and some of the bells and whistles associated with the latest version of the watch could have been lifted from the press release of any number of high end Swiss luxury brands.  The centerpiece of the Apple Watch news at today’s event is the all new Apple Watch Series 10. The new device is being described by Apple as its lightest and thinnest yet, boasting a 10% thinner case height than the Series 9, and a 20% lighter weight than the stainless steel version of last year’s watch. It’s just 9.7mm thick, and the display is larger than the App...

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Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing Worn & Wound
H. Moser Sep 9, 2024

Opinion: the Moser x Studio Underd0g Collab Was Great – the Reaction from the Watch Community Was Disappointing

Without fail, there’s a moment at big industry events when you realize you’re in a bubble. At every Watches & Wonders I’ve attended, and now following my first Geneva Watch Days, there’s been a new release that has “worked” in the room among the press and other members of the community who have actually seen it, but has been less warmly received (in certain quarters) by those back home. I felt this acutely when looking at the latest from H. Moser, a collaboration with Studio Underd0g that, when I saw the press release ahead of leaving for Switzerland, I was certain would be the enthusiast community’s favorite walking away. And while I think overall you’d have to admit the watch was widely praised from all sides, there was a surprising chorus of supposed Studio Underd0g fans who didn’t take to it as kindly.  When I was pointed toward heated Instagram comment threads by friends and colleagues days after seeing the watches I was genuinely surprised. When you’re at an event like this, you’re really kind of on your own little watch industry planet. I find that there’s simply not enough time to monitor reactions to everything with a busy meeting schedule and almost no down time. It’s kind of nice, honestly, to be consumed by a single thing for a short period of time. It has a cleansing effect. But it means I’m not idly scrolling through Instagram, so the peanut gallery commentary on all the new releases was lost on me.  To summarize, the reactions i...

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Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer Monochrome
Breguet s natural escapement Sep 9, 2024

Hands-on – The New Lederer Three-times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Independent watchmaker and proper horologist Bernhard Lederer has once again captured the spotlight in recent years, with the horological community admiring and discussing his Central Impulse Chronometer series. This collection of wristwatches features a unique movement designed by Lederer, regulated by a high-accuracy escapement inspired by Breguet’s natural escapement and George Daniels’ independent two-wheel, dual-impulse […]

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