Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With John Goldberger, Part 2
The legendary collector and scholar returns with a dozen vintage watches of the highest caliber – and you'll probably never see anything like this again.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Time+Tide
The 10 best clocks, if you’ve run out of space in your watch box
If you’re anything like me, you’ll constantly be searching for a new, bigger watch box, along with new watches, of course. My drawers, desks and cabinets have filed up with watch boxes, canvas rolls and random Swatches I’ve picked up over the years. Luckily, most of us will have at least a small space on … ContinuedThe post The 10 best clocks, if you’ve run out of space in your watch box appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters
It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction
With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price
It’s no secret that microbrands can often provide incredible watches for the money, but that doesn’t mean that they can get away with putting no effort in. Slapping together a list of specifications at a low price point might seem like the key to Kickstarter success, but it takes a lot of planning, intuition, and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Varon Chiri Blazer is a dressy everyday watch for a remarkable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch…
Chris Evans has long been beloved by audiences worldwide. From the early years of his career in Not Another Teen Movie, to the role of Captain America that launched him into superstardom, the versatile actor has played many characters over the years. But, the one irrefutable through-line is that no matter the role – even … ContinuedThe post Chris Evans unveiled as People Magazine’s Sexiest Man Alive while wearing this watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Deepsea Challenge Ref. 126067 Rated to 11,000 Metres
In a surprising off-season debut, Rolex has debuted the record-setting Deepsea Challenge. Evolved from the experimental dive watch of the same name presented in 2012, the Deepsea Challenge is the first serially-produced Rolex wristwatch in titanium. And its rating of 11,000 m, or 36,090 ft, means it clinches the title of the deepest-rated dive watch ever. Initial thoughts Conceived as “the ultimate watch of the deep”, the Deepsea Challenge has nevertheless “been crafted with everyday use in mind”. In other words it’s gigantic at 50 mm in diameter and over 20 mm thick, but wearable because both the case and bracelet are titanium, making it relatively lightweight. It is tempting to imagine Rolex will roll out other titanium watches, though I expect that won’t happen since the use of the alloy for the Deepsea Challenge is primarily for lightness, something less important for conventionally-sized Rolex watches. As with other Rolex sports watches the technology behind the watch is impressive – in fact the technology within the watch makes it one of the most interesting Rolex sports watches – but it also incorporates details that enthusiasts will appreciate like the chamfered lugs that bring to mind vintage Rolex cases. In short, it’s a little over the top but extremely cool. It’s somewhat pricey at abut 70% more expensive than the standard Deepsea, but arguably worth it for something that is essentially an experimental watch refined into something wearable...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months
Starting Micro Mondays was originally about shining a light on some of the great independent watchmakers who have been able to be supported through the miracle of crowdfunding and other means. These brands were unbound by design restrictions or the necessity to please established fanbases. Instead they had the freedom to revive a stagnant watch … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Our favourite watches from the past 6 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi
Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Summit 3: Have I Lost My Mind Comparing A Smartwatch To A Rolls-Royce?
The Montblanc Summit 3 smartwatch is similar to a Rolls-Royce's electronics in that it doesn't dazzle with complex menus and an overload of information, alarms, and notifications. It’s more like the perfect secretary who knows precisely when to disturb the boss and when not to. Martin Green is quite enamored.
Time+Tide
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap
Chopard has long produced complicated and/or highly decorated pieces in their L.U.C collection as well as sport-oriented watches like the Mille Miglia, but a space was open for a model to bridge the gap between the two. This is where the Chopard Alpine Eagle steps in. Following in the footsteps of the 1980s St. Moritz, … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore
To mark the reopening of its boutique within the same complex, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just inaugurated The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition taking place in the ArtScience Museum of Marina Bay Sands from now to November 2, 2022. Open to the public with free admission, the exhibition is an all-encompassing showcase of the brand’s watchmaking split into three sections, starting with its historical timepieces and culminating in its modern-day grand complications like the Tour de l’lle. The first section, Our Heritage: A Legacy as Precious as Time, presents a selection of the brand’s notable timepieces from its earliest years – the oldest watch on show is exactly 200 years old – continuing into the present day with the landmark Tour de l’lle launched in 2005 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, an impressive double-faced watch with 16 complications. A pocket watch dating from 1822 with an engraved case set with amethysts The Tour de l’lle Following that comes The Anatomy of Beauty dedicated to the brand’s traditional and artisanal decorative techniques. Amongst the highlights is the Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations”, a quartet of watches unveiled just earlier this year at the Louvre. Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations” Finally Science and Complications explores the five most important complications for VC, namely the tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, retrograde display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. The key exh...
SJX Watches
In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003
Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train”
When people call watches “art” it may seem like fluff and romance. Prior to smartphones and quartz timekeepers, mechanical watches were known as tools – the only means to track the time portably. Today, the art of watchmaking is primarily acknowledged due to the obsolescence of wristwatches, the luxurious maintenance of a traditional craft and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President
Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches
At this rate it seems like we’ll end up with more vintage reissues in the world than actual vintage watches, if that’s not already the case. We started out with homages and vintage-inspired watches, then moved towards the meticulous and accurate recreations, before the current era of watches that look old no matter what vibrant … ContinuedThe post Three ways that heritage reissues can differ from real vintage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Inside man: Why would you wear your watch dial down?
As an ex-pat who’s lived in Australia for the past 20 years, watching British politics unfold of late has been like watching one of your ex-girlfriends self-harm. Things have rapidly got even more disastrous under the new Prime Minister Liz Truss – barely a month into the role, one newspaper is already describing her as … ContinuedThe post Inside man: Why would you wear your watch dial down? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Book Review: MB&F; - The First Fifteen Years
MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...
Time+Tide
Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador
Bradley Cooper has got a new watch. The Hollywood actor has just been unveiled as the face of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour, the brand’s most famous model that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. The news will perhaps bother some po-faced folk, who’ll no doubt start muttering about Cooper’s previous affiliation as an IWC ambassador and … ContinuedThe post Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Announcements: Meet Our Five New Editors!
We're doubling down on our editorial staff. Here's who's joining us – and what they'll all be doing.
Hodinkee
Watching Movies: Will Smith Makes The Hamilton Ventura Look Good In 'Men In Black'
And Tommy Lee Jones follows suit in our watch-related, '90s-themed, movie of the week.
Teddy Baldassarre
53 Best Watch Blogs for Watch Enthusiasts & Collectors
Watch collectors, from newbies to veterans, often turn to watch blogs for the latest watch-world news and for trusted reviews of watches they're interested in owning. You will find a lot of useful information and buying advice on our own blog here, but what are some of the other online platforms worth checking out if you're an avid watch enthusiast? You'll find many options in our list of the (other) 50 Best Watch Blogs that are currently active online. Wrist Enthusiast Litigation attorney and social media consultant Craig Karger started Wrist Enthusiast as an Instagram account in 2015, and launched it as a full-fledged blog in 2021, adding a small team of editors and writers. The blog covers a wide scope of content for aficionados, from curated lists to hands-on reviews to celebrity watch-spotting. WatchTime WatchTime is the U.S.A.'s leading print publication devoted to the world of watches and its online home features some of the magazine's most popular features, including in-depth tests of timepieces, curated lists, and exclusive interviews with industry power players, in addition to all the watch world's most important breaking news. Monochrome Watches Describing itself as "an online magazine dedicated to fine watches," Monochrome was founded in 2006 as the personal blog of Dutch watch enthusiast Frank Geelen and has grown to become one the most-read watch sites in the world. Monochrome covers an array of new product releases as well as serving up reviews, technic...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Nine Serious '90s Watches That Many Collectors Still Ignore - But Shouldn't
Many of us have '90s regrets – don't let ignoring these watches be one of them.
SJX Watches
In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air
Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus”
Seiko has gone beyond the green and gold to release two watches inspired by Australia’s natural environment that will be limited to the Australasian market. We’ll tackle the first of these now: the Prospex SRPJ35K “Eucalyptus”, but you can read our first impressions of the Prospex SBP347J “Noosa” right here. Both watches are released along … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Second Opinions: If You Really Love a Watch, Give it Away
Yes, it can be hard to let one go. But you'll see it in a whole new light. And you'll give someone else a genuine thrill.
Time+Tide
Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’”
Tommy is a Time+Tide Club member who works in cricket and, as a result, travels a lot and spends an inordinate amount of time in airports. That means he also gets a lot of exposure to new watches in the duty-free section, which is how he first spotted the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic. “As soon as … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: “As soon as I saw it I thought, ‘Wow! I have to have that watch one day.’” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Business News: Recession? What Recession!? The Swiss Watch Industry Continues To See Staggering Growth
And the number one global consumer is the U S of A. We'll take fries with that.
Time+Tide
Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity
When you ask many collectors what got them into watches, you’ll often hear them attribute the spark to James Bond. The charismatic secret agent is intricately tied to timepieces, wearing various watches from Rolex, Seiko, Heuer, Pulsar, and, more recently, Omega across the six decades and 25 films of the James Bond franchise. As a … ContinuedThe post Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Yosuke Sekiguchi Primevère Prototype
Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...