Quill & Pad
The Omega Spirate System: A New Idea in Balance Spring Technology
The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.
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Quill & Pad
The Omega Spirate is a new type of balance spring. It isn’t just a flashy concept piece, it is a practical advancement capable of improving horology.
Monochrome
Since its inception in 2018, Collective Horology, a “proudly headquartered in Ventura, California” club for watch enthusiasts, has become quite famous through the Collective Series, which involves collaborations and limited editions with watch brands like IWC, H. Moser & Cie., Armin Strom, Czapek and Oris, to name a few and the Portfolio Series, which commissions […]
Fratello
Since Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly founded Collective Horology in 2018, the company has become known as one of the leading US-based retailers of watches from independent brands. But Collective has also collaborated with several brands on an impressive number of limited editions. For its tenth collaborative effort, Collective teamed up with Zenith again for […] Visit Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A modern take on the classic Dirty Dozen design shows how Aera has really thought about the new M1 release. The post The Aera M-1 Field and Blackbird breathe new life into the Dirty Dozen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Doxa is renowned for crafting rugged watches with a focus on functionality – tool watches, all featuring that toughness, high-water resistance or scratch-proof sapphire crystal you expect from utilitarian divers. Today, mechanical watches are as much luxury items as they are functional tools. In response to “strong demand from markets”, the brand’s compact and rather […]
Time+Tide
A smaller take on the British military-inspired field watch makes for a wonderful week on the wrist from Vertex.The post A mid-sized military watch from Vertex makes the M36 a touching tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...
SJX Watches
Continuing from part I of the history of the equation of time. In the late 17th century, London’s clockmaking landscape experienced a remarkable surge of innovation and collaboration, fuelled by interactions among prominent horologists and the broader scientific community. Among this period’s leading figures were Christian Huygens and Robert Hooke, who made substantial strides in crafting clocks that could precisely display solar time without the need for cumbersome equation tables. This era marked the advent of the equation cam, a revolutionary mechanism designed to reconcile the disparities between solar time and mean time. Inspired by the analemma-a figure-eight pattern illustrating the Sun’s varying positions in the sky throughout the seasons-these mechanisms featured a distinctive mathematically calculated kidney-shaped cam, symbolising a pivotal step forward in horological precision and accuracy. At the heart of this innovation lies the cam and lever mechanism, an integral component of the invention. It comprises a shaft propelled by the clock’s mechanism, completing a full rotation annually. Affixed to this shaft is a meticulously crafted kidney-shaped cam, tailored precisely to match the annual fluctuations outlined by the equation. This cam engages with a follower and a connected lever, facilitating the seamless translation of its rotational motion into practical adjustments within the timepiece. Drawing of an equation pendulum by Ferdinand Berthoud (1...
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue introduces the fan-favourite colour into the anything-but-conventional collection.The post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue brings a crowd-favourite hue into the lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Monochrome
Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]
Fratello
Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex to read the full article.
Time+Tide
If you've not fully caught onto the stealth wealth trend, our buying guide should clarify everything.The post 7 of the best stealth wealth watches that exude old money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]
Monochrome
Having celebrated its 150th anniversary a few years ago, Bernhard H. Mayer is a watchmaking brand with numismatic roots in Germany. With the 4th generation of the family at the helm, the company is now headquartered in Biel Switzerland. The brand’s most recent novelty, the Wave Rider is a well-specced, robust diver with a twist. […]
Time+Tide
Germany's Heinrich blends 70s and 80s style with ultra-modern material tech for its latest watch.The post Heinrich forges ahead with the new Taucher Lume Infused Forged Carbon V2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
What better way to celebrate your 20th anniversary than by throwing a small party? No, even a tiny party is way too exuberant for Greubel Forsey, Haute Horlogerie manufacturer par excellence. That’s why the brand throws a nano party. And that’s big news because the Nano Foudroyante EWT is Greubel Forsey’s 10th “Invention Piece.” The […] Visit Monday Morning With Greubel Forsey’s 10th Fundamental Invention, The Nano Foudroyante EWT to read the full article.
Fratello
BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The '80s G-Shock goes back to its original era in this new release dripping with nostalgia.
SJX Watches
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
SJX Watches
Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...
Time+Tide
A new LE from the Dink, this time a classy dress watch from Chopard with a hunter caseback.The post Introducing the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is it time to reconsider how we are representing gender across the watch world? The post Under-represented and under-appreciated: Deloitte & Watch Femme’s report shines a light on women and the watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility. At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]
Monochrome
Jaguar is one of the great British car manufacturers, perhaps only rivalled by Aston Martin when it comes to style, class, and heritage. It started out as the Swallow Sidecar Company in 1922, making motorcycle sidecars before moving into the production of cars in the mid-1930s, with the first-ever car being the SS Jaguar 2.5L […]
Time+Tide
Going from making 200,000 cases a year to relaunching with a hot new dress watch, Dennison is on the up and up.The post Has Dennison risen from the dead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Are you looking to close out the year with a bang? If so, you’d better do that with a banger of a watch that, for some reason, never found its way to your wrist. Missed opportunities are a thing of the not-so-distant past, so on my hit list are three of my favorite pre-owned watches. […] Visit The Fratello Watch List - Lex’s Pre-Owned Favorites From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, And Rolex to read the full article.
Fratello
Praesidus is one of those brands I have quickly come to love. It focuses on introducing vintage-inspired military watches with unique stories. The brand has a knack for finding remarkable military stories and using them as inspiration for its timepieces. The latest addition to the growing lineup is the Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph. This watch’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Meca-Quartz Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Will the mismanagement of this launch damage the brand irreparably, or does this become a footnote in Thierry Stern's tenure? The post Will the Cubitus be the final straw that will put Patek Philippe customers off for good? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
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