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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet increased May 31, 2024

First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm

Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]

Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2 Fratello
May 31, 2024

Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2

Horage, one of the odd ones out in the watch industry, presents the fourth model in its Lensman series, the Lensman 1.2. It’s another technically exciting offering equipped with an upgraded version of Horage’s K-TOU movement. But one should not ignore the watch’s appearance either. With its white dial and strap, the Lensman 1.2 is […] Visit Introducing: The Lightweight And Refreshing Horage Lensman 1.2 to read the full article.

First Look – The Brutalist Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 Incl Video Audemars May 31, 2024

First Look – The Brutalist Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02 (Incl. Video)

Audemars Piguet launched its first [Re]Master model with the recreation of a superb chronograph from the 1940s. For the second chapter of this historical collection, the brand reimagines one of its most expressive designs from the 1960s. A model of brutalist inspiration, the reference 5159BA stands out with its yellow gold asymmetrical case and eccentric […]

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape Fratello
Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - May 31, 2024

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape

What to expect after the [RE]Master01? Well, the [RE]Master02, of course. But what would that second reinterpreted timepiece look like? Nothing like anyone expected. Instead of riding the wave of comfortable retro, Audemars Piguet chose to go asymmetrical. The [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is the result of a deep dive into a niche of the brand’s archives. […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding - An Unexpected And Unusual Shape to read the full article.

First Look – The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendome One Limited Edition Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer May 31, 2024

First Look – The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendome One Limited Edition

Recently, luxury brand Chopard expanded its presence by opening a prestigious hospitality establishment at Place Vendôme 1, in Paris. This boutique hotel offers five rooms and ten suites, each uniquely decorated. To mark the opening of the Chopard Hotel, the brand has introduced the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Vendôme One, a special edition watch […]

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York Quill & Pad
Breguet Connects May 31, 2024

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York

Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 1972 IWC May 31, 2024

Seiko Revives the Credor Locomotive Designed by Gerald Genta

After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome May 30, 2024

[VIDEO] A Brief Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay 41 Monochrome, and the Black Bay Thunderdome, Part II

It’s been a few months since the end of Watches and Wonders, and the world of watches is starting to feel a little bit more normal again. There aren’t dozens of watches fighting for your attention in countless new release articles. What is happening though is many of these watches  are making their way into the hands of enthusiasts and first impressions and #NWAs are starting to trickle out with the best and brightest that Watches and Wonders had to offer. One such beneficiary of these new watches hitting the streets is yours truly. I got a brief hands-on with the new Tudor Black Bay 41 “Monochrome” during a pop in at the W&W; HQ, and spent just enough time with it to walk away with a few solid first impressions.  Tudor DNA Distilled Into A Single Watch One of the first things I noticed about the BB41 Monochrome is just how Tudor it really is. The snowflake hands pop off the contrasting black dial, the 60-click bezel clicks past markings with an authoritative snap, and polished slab sides make up the bulk of the height of the watch. The dial is clean and easy to read, not a hint of fauxtina in sight. There’s no date, which keeps things super simple. Two lines of text is just the right amount of words to let you know how deep you can dive and that your watch will be very, very accurate (as far as mechanical watches go, at least). Upon closer inspection, the dial features a more interesting finish than it first leads on. It’s satin-finished with a slight sunburs...

First Look – The Kauri Régulateur Carbone, a Modern Retrograde Minute & Jumping Hours Regulator Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin May 30, 2024

First Look – The Kauri Régulateur Carbone, a Modern Retrograde Minute & Jumping Hours Regulator

Kauri is an independent watchmaking brand recently founded by Samuel Gillioz. This young watchmaker studied at the École d’Horlogerie de Genève before gaining experience at Timelab and Vacheron Constantin in the highly respected Cabinotiers workshop. In 2019, Samuel Gillioz launched Kauri with the vision of creating something unique and original. The main specificity of his […]

#TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999 Fratello
May 30, 2024

#TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999

It could have been about three or four years since I saw a Gallet Astronomic listed last time. It was on eBay, and the price reached the €10,000 limit, so I was hesitant. My dilemma didn’t last long; someone bought it before I made up my mind. When the opportunity came again, I was ready! […] Visit #TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999 to read the full article.

First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through May 30, 2024

First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Designed by Michel Parmigiani, the classic Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through a tasteful facelift as an integrated sports watch following the appointment of Guido Terreni at the helm of the brand. The collection quickly proved to be a hit, which was further supported by the introduction of several new models, including the smart and innovative […]

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape Fratello
Schofield May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape

For some of you, the bold case shape will be instantly recognizable as a Schofield creation. But while it is indeed symbolic of the brand, this is a very different product of Giles Ellis’s furtive imagination. Does it set the tone for what can be a stand-alone totem of a watch or a new line […] Visit Introducing: The Schofield Obscura - Adding Metallurgic Marvel To A Classic Shape to read the full article.

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Audemars Piguet 1972 Royal Oak Patek May 30, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Gerald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive

Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW Fratello
VPC Type 37HW It has May 30, 2024

Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW

It has been a while since the last episode of Building A Watch Brand. In fact, that was a full month before the big launch, which took place on March 7th. As you may have gathered elsewhere, the VPC Type 37HW presale was a success, meeting the threshold number of sales over the first weekend. […] Visit Building A Watch Brand Episode 14: An Update On The Production And Presale Of The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry Fratello
May 30, 2024

Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry

Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Nacho is joined by RJ and Lex to discuss their thoughts on a hype-hungry watch industry. Lately, more than ever before, it seems that big brands within the watch industry are doing their best to remain relevant by chasing hype. We saw the natural hype […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Quest For Relevance In A Hype-Hungry Watch Industry to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...