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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Squale Feb 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition

We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...

The Story Behind A Special Royal Australian Air Force IWC Timepiece Fratello
IWC Timepiece Feb 3, 2024

The Story Behind A Special Royal Australian Air Force IWC Timepiece

This is the story of how a group of mates in the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) banded together to turn their horological dream - an homage to an original RAAF watch - into a reality. If you have an interest in special military timepieces, this one is for you. It should come as no […] Visit The Story Behind A Special Royal Australian Air Force IWC Timepiece to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas Worn & Wound
Certina Chronograph Feb 2, 2024

eBay Finds: A Rare Omega with the Full Kit, a Certina Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Pair of Fantastic Bulovas

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Benrus First up this week is some stylish bling, a vintage 1958 solid 14k gold Benrus. The solid gold case has unusual fancy lugs and a slim bezel, and is on the smaller side at 32mm wide. There is a super cool personalized engraving from Booth’s 25 Year Club. Yeah, I don’t know what that is either, but the engraving really is a good one. The silver dial is superb with the classic Benrus logo and tri-color bar beneath it. There are applied gold arrow markers for most of the hours, and Arabic numerals for the 12, 3, 6 and 9. No date, but a classy sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. This is a nice stylish dress watch that has the under-the-radar bling with the solid gold case. No movement pic, but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Seiko 66-7109 “Blue Tuxedo” Here’s a great vintage hand-wound Seiko on the original bracelet. The bold blue bullseye style dial really pops without being garish, and it’s in fantastic condition. There are applied steel markers and no date – this  is a great looking dial. The steel case is 36mm and unpolished, with nice sharp edges, and it also has the original crown. The Seiko caliber 66 manual wind movement is crisp ...

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch Worn & Wound
Feb 2, 2024

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protect your everyday carry gear and other valuables wherever your travels take you. With five internal pockets, water resistant design, and compact size, this pouch packs a ton of features for its price. You can configure the Pioneer Carry Global Pouch from a variety of color and materials right here in the Windup Watch Shop. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protec...

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – Feb 2, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More Fratello
Rolex Watches - Featuring Feb 2, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we will take a look at some oddball Rolex models. For this list, we selected five wonderfully strange cult classics. Some have a different dial that sets them apart from their regular counterparts, and some are unique models. If you are a Rolex fan, you will know about […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Oddball Rolex Watches - Featuring The Turn-O-Graph, GMT-Master “Concorde,” Oyster Perpetual Date, And More to read the full article.

Introducing – The Racing-Infused Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Nino Farina II Monochrome
Feb 2, 2024

Introducing – The Racing-Infused Cuervo y Sobrinos Historiador Nino Farina II

Cuervo y Sobrinos, the Havana-rooted watch brand, continues to pay tribute to the world’s first official Formula One World Champion, Emilio Giuseppe “Nino” Farina, with the launch of the second limited edition timepiece. Following the success of the initial 2023 release, the Historiador Nino Farina 42mm chronograph, which sold out rapidly with its distinctive pastel […]

Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Feb 2, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755

It always sparks a debate when people read about the “Holy Trinity of Watchmaking.” Maybe that is because some perceive it as an outdated concept - a secret fraternity that has lost touch with reality. Still, Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the members of this unofficial club, alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Once, […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Vacheron Constantin: A Member Of The Illustrious “Holy Trinity Of Watchmaking” With A History Dating Back To 1755 to read the full article.

Zenith Updates the Chronomaster Sport with Two New References, One of which Looks Familiar, the Other…Not So Much Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 1, 2024

Zenith Updates the Chronomaster Sport with Two New References, One of which Looks Familiar, the Other…Not So Much

It’s been a big week for Frédéric Arnault and LVMH Watches. Arnault took charge of LVMH Watches earlier this month, so this is his first LVMH Watch Week at the broader helm (he has spent the last few years as CEO of TAG Heuer), and I would say it has been a strong kickoff to his tenure. Wild Hublot Masterpieces, El Primero Triple Calendars from Zenith, and yellow gold Octo Finissimos are all worthy of celebration, but it wouldn’t be LVMH Watch Week without some new additions to the Chronomaster Sport lineup. The Chronomaster Sport was first introduced back in 2021, and initial reactions were very clear that it was built as a sort of “Daytona-killer.” In the now three years since, it has proven to be so much more. Built on more history than just about any chronograph on the market, the Chronomaster Sport has proven to be a fantastic modern interpretation of the longstanding El Primero. Zenith has trickled out new variants of the Chronomaster Sport since its introduction, and despite the signature multi-colored subdials that have been both a hallmark of El Primero watches across the decades and the Chronomaster Sport, these variants have been mostly sedate. Today that changes, and in a big way. Zenith has dropped two new iterations of the Chronomaster Sport, one steel, one decidedly not. Starting with the steel release, we have what essentially amounts to a steel Chronomaster Sport with a green ceramic bezel and matching dial. While the watch is striking, this isn...

First Look – The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium Monochrome
Speake-Marin Feb 1, 2024

First Look – The Speake Marin One & Two Openworked Sandblasted Red Gold And Titanium

If Speake Marin has recently made waves with its sport-chic Ripples line, its Piccadilly case remains a brand signature Inherently Speake Marin. Watches featuring the Piccadilly case embody British elegance, controlled eccentricity, and classic Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The One & Two collection underwent a tasteful revamping in 2017 in collaboration with watch designer Eric Giroud. […]

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic Worn & Wound
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Feb 1, 2024

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic

It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication.  The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...

Introducing – The Bausele x Seconde/Seconde is all about Australian Clichés Monochrome
Bausele x Seconde/Seconde Feb 1, 2024

Introducing – The Bausele x Seconde/Seconde is all about Australian Clichés

While now many of our readers must be familiar with Romaric André, founder of seconde/seconde, and the man behind dozens of collaboration watches, Bausele remains a slightly more niche brand in the watchmaking field. Founded in 2011 and first specialized in military-issued watches, the brand is one of the few to be located in Australia… […]

#TBT Building The Perfect Vintage Watch Collection With €25,000 - Tomas’s Picks From Omega, Seiko, Cartier, And More Fratello
Cartier Feb 1, 2024

#TBT Building The Perfect Vintage Watch Collection With €25,000 - Tomas’s Picks From Omega, Seiko, Cartier, And More

Late last year, I followed my colleagues’ thoughts on how would they spend their €25,000 budgets on a perfect watch collection. I had as much fun reading their articles as you did. Since no one asked me about how would I break the bank, I allowed myself to slightly adjust the brief. What would a […] Visit #TBT Building The Perfect Vintage Watch Collection With €25,000 - Tomas’s Picks From Omega, Seiko, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” Quartz Feb 1, 2024

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz”

Quartz is having something of a quiet comeback. After decades of scorn and contempt, many have come to appreciate the ease of use that quartz provides. Furthermore, not all quartz watches are the same. Today’s new Grand Seiko SBGX355, already nicknamed “Snowflake Quartz,” uses the brand’s famed 9F62 movement and comes in a highly wearable […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGX355 “Snowflake Quartz” to read the full article.

Introducing – Immerse Yourself In Spy Thrills With The Bremont Argylle Collection Monochrome
Bremont Argylle Collection Feb 1, 2024

Introducing – Immerse Yourself In Spy Thrills With The Bremont Argylle Collection

In the upcoming February release, Matthew Vaughn unveils his latest cinematic creation, Argylle, delving into the entertaining and twisted world of espionage and spies. Drawing parallels to Vaughn’s other hit, Kingsman: The Secret Service (2015), known for its stylish clandestine intrigue, Argylle promises an equally riveting experience. Vaughn’s ongoing collaboration with the British watch company […]

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star” SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Feb 1, 2024

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star”

Best known for its astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has created a special run of its chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase for its retailer in the Netherlands. The Ace x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne Amsterdam Star is preserves the original design but adds a “fog grey” dial with star-shaped indices inspired by the “Stelline” dials found on 1950s Rolex watches. Initial thoughts The independent brand’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers is logical since both hail from the same country. The stAriadne stands out with its star indices that replaces the Arabic numerals of the standard model. A nod to the Rolex ref. 6062, star dials are relatively rare in contemporary timepieces, rendering this release quite distinctive. That being said, this is essentially an Ariadne with a new dial. Ideally, it would have been more interesting with mechanical tweaks to the largely standard Valjoux chronograph movement, a reliable but thick movement with shortish power reserve. But considering it is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at €7,180 – about the same as the standard model – it is a reasonable proposition. A “star” dial  The stAriadne is the latest iteration of the Ariadne, one of the longstanding models in the CVDK line-up. Since its launch, the model has been powered by the Valjoux 7758, a variant of the familiar 7750 chronograph movement that has the addition of a complete calendar and moon phase. Last year, the Ari...

Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself Fratello
Daniel Roth Feb 1, 2024

Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself

Daniel Roth is a name that carries weight in the world of Haute Horlogerie. When LVMH, the brand’s current owner, announced its revival back in 2023, it filled us with anticipation and trepidation. Could this work under the umbrella of a big luxury group? Will LMVH do the Daniel Roth name justice? Well, today, we […] Visit Will LVMH Do Justice To The Daniel Roth Name? - See And Judge For Yourself to read the full article.

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets Jan 31, 2024

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial

Among watch brands, Omega won the race to the moon–it also won the PR war, and now whenever someone uses the term “moon watch,” your mind invariably turns to the Speedmaster. But while the Omega Speedmaster may have been the first watch to the moon, it isn’t the only one. In 1971, Apollo 15 mission commander Dave Scott became the seventh man to walk on the moon, and when he looked at his wrist to check how long he’d been out of the lunar lander, it was a Bulova that gave him the time. Forty-five years later, Bulova released a re-creation of this watch: the Lunar Pilot. Now, they’ve leaned into the space angle even more, with the Lunar Pilot Meteorite, which, as the name suggests, features a dial made of actual space rock. The Lunar Pilot was built to NASA’s specifications and, as such, bears some superficial resemblance to the Speedmaster as a three-register chronograph with a tachymeter. (Coincidentally, the Lunar Pilot Meteorite was also released shortly after the latest Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster from Omega, which features a dial made to look like the lunar surface.) But a more rounded and slightly larger case–43.5 mm versus the 42 mm of the Speedmaster–with slim, rectangular pushers that span from the crown to almost the lugs gives the Lunar Pilot a unique silhouette. The meteorite model features a dial crafted from a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite that Bulova promises gives each of the 5,000 limited edition watches a unique crystalline pattern...

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko GMT’s Jan 31, 2024

Two New Seiko GMT’s and a Vintage Throwback Hit the Windup Watch Shop

Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone retro-inspired hit. Here is your Chronicle highlighting the Seiko Alpinist GMTs, models SPB377 and SPB379, and the Seiko SPRK17. As always, we invite you to join our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Ask any watch collector worth their salt about their entry into watch collecting, and you’ll hear “Seiko 5” more often than not. Then ask them about which Seiko lines they enjoy now, and you’ll hear (if not the same answer) Seiko Prospex. As two of Seiko’s more accessible lines, the Seiko 5 and Prospex collections are more than just gateways – they represent the core of the Japanese brand’s ethos: reliability, excellence, and sportiness. This week we are proud to introduce not one, not two, but three new Seiko references into the Windup Watch Shop. Two hail from the Prospex Alpinist line, and the last is a standalone r...

Introducing – The Graphic New Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic Jan 31, 2024

Introducing – The Graphic New Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic

The latest creation from Bell & Ross, the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic, immediately draws parallels with the Cyber Skull models due to its striking resemblance. At first glance, one might even mistake it for another skull and bones-themed timepiece. However, the brand steers us away from such associations, emphasizing the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is the brand’s […]