Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A Look At Gérald Genta’s 'Postmodern' Period
How the legendary designer redefined taste under his own brand name.
651 articles · 48 videos found · page 4 of 24
Hodinkee
How the legendary designer redefined taste under his own brand name.
Quill & Pad
2023 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore collection. Here Alexey Kutkovoy look at the ROO Diver watches, perhaps the most impressive and important non-chronograph design in the Offshore collection.
Quill & Pad
There were many surprises in the Christie’s Rare Watches auction in Geneva on May 13. Some satisfying, some disappointing. At a preview held by Christie's in late March and early April during the Watches & Wonders show in Geneva, Alexey Kutkovoy was able to see and examine several lots in detail. Here are a few of the results that caught his eye.
Hodinkee
With help from Genta's widow, Evelyne, the focus will be on high complications and limited production.
Revolution
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Hodinkee
This watch ups the mouse-related ante with a bi-retrograde movement providing both minutes and date functionality.
Revolution
Hodinkee
A unique twist on two-tone, to be auctioned off at Sotheby's in Geneva tomorrow.
See the space where the late designer crafted his major works – and listened to … Snoop Dogg?
Hodinkee
The world's most famous watch designer's take on the world's most famous mouse.
Video
Hodinkee
The design powerhouse has spent the last 30 years improving the aesthetics of entry-level watchmaking.
Revolution
Genta’s original watch designs of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus and more are paired with NFTs at Sotheby’s 2022 auctions.
Hodinkee
Will this set a new Royal Oak record?
Built to last.
Hodinkee
Bulgari jumps back into the arena with a new Genta design.
Video
Hodinkee
Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...
Hodinkee
With the dust finally settling on Watches & Wonders 2026, the conversation shifts from the halls of the Palexpo to the cobblestone streets of SoHo. On May 6, Hodinkee is partnering with Gerald Charles for an exclusive community event at the Watches of Switzerland SoHo showroom. This evening serves as an intimate destination for collectors to go hands-on with the latest novelties from Geneva, offering a rare opportunity to experience the brand's evolution in a localized setting. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. The highlight of the evening is a thoughtful discussion featuring Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles, and Hodinkee's own Deputy Editor, Tim Jeffreys. The two will explore the brand's unique heritage as the final creative chapter of Gérald Genta's career, as well as its strategic vision for the future. It is a deep dive into the "Maestro" DNA, punctuated by cocktails and the chance to be some of the first in the U.S. to handle the latest pieces. The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. Registration:To attend this intimate community event, please RSVP to events@hodinkee.com with your first and last name. If you would like to bring a guest, kindly include their name and email address. A confirmation email will follow to finalize your RSVP. Details:Date & Time:Wednesday, May 6, 20266:00 pm – 8:00 pm ET Location:Watches of Switzerland SoHo60 Greene St, New York, NY 10012
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2026 may officially be closed, but we’re highlighting some of the key brands we visited. Gerald Charles is known for its distinctively styled baroque wristwatches, with a case shape originally designed by Gérald Genta. This year, the brand added to its lineup with a trio of attractive releases. I had the opportunity […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2026 Roundup - Gerald Charles to read the full article.
Monochrome
As the story goes, the Ingenieur was released in 1955 as IWC’s first antimagnetic wristwatch for civilian use. In 1974, IWC enlisted legendary designer Gerald Genta to redesign the watch. Transformed into a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Genta’s Ingenieur SL debuted in 1976. Evolving over the decades, the modern revival of Genta’s […]
Monochrome
When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]
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Monochrome
IWC’s Ingenieur watch with a soft-iron inner cage was conceived as an antimagnetic tool watch for civilians working in magnetic environments. In 1974, IWC turned to designer Gerald Genta to revamp the watch, resulting in the Ingenieur SL luxury integrated sports watch of 1976. Sometimes, moving forward in the watch world means going back in […]
SJX Watches
True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand the modern Ingenieur line by once again pairing the 1970s Gérald Genta-inspired integrated case and bracelet with the crown-operated perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in the early 1980s. Following the steel version launched last year, this 2026 release introduces a full-titanium construction; meet the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 in […]
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar brings one of the brand’s most celebrated complications into its modern integrated sports watch design for the very first time. I take a closer look at what makes this latest evolution of the Ingenieur such a compelling release. What We Love: Compact proportions for a sports watch with Kurt-Klaus’s perpetual calendar design Beautifully executed case and dial finishing Stainless steel makes it more wearable and accessible What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment system on the bracelet clasp Limited strap versatility due to the integrated bracelet design No precious metal option at launch for those wanting a more luxurious take Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur has always been one of IWC’s most compelling designs, blending Gérald Genta’s signature aesthetic codes with the brand’s own sporty heritage and technical edge. I’ve been fortunate enough to review quite a few models from the Ingenieur range, which gives a good sense of how the overall collection sits across various sizes and complications. During Watches & Wonders 2025, arguably, one of the biggest shifts to the Ingenieur collection in modern times. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presented the Ingenieur in a 41.6mm case, with none other than a perpetual calendar complication sitting inside. The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first of its kind, released during Watches & Wonder...
Worn & Wound
While the watch industry braces for Watches & Wonders next week and anticipates a flurry of new releases to discuss that will take us through the next several months of watch discourse, today is actually the day that many collectors and enthusiasts have been waiting for for years: the debut of new watches from Universal Geneve. When it was announced that the brand would be formally relaunched by Georges Kern back in December of 2023, speculation began immediately as to what we would eventually see. Little tidbits have come out in dribs and drabs over the last two years, but today the watch community finally gets a look at what Universal Geneve will be in the modern era, at least to start. A few things are very apparent from the outset. This is a big swing on the part of Kern and others steering the ship at Universal. They could have gone small, and introduced a one or two references to reintroduce the brand to the community slowly, but instead they’ve come out o the gate with nearly 40 SKUs, with prices ranging from a relatively modest $14,000 all the way up to $320,000 for an elaborate jewelry focused Cabriolet (and that’s the only elaborate, jewelry focused piece). The other thing that’s clear is that the launch feels focused on the Polerouter, a Gerald Genta design that is likely the most well known watch under the broader Universal Geneve banner. It got the reference book treatment a few years back, and, once upon a time, was one of the most frequently recommen...
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