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Annual Calendar

Patek's 1996 invention; handles 30- and 31-day months but needs one manual correction per year.

TAG Heuer Debuts a Pair of Purple Carrera Chronographs, Including a Glassbox Tourbillon, for LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Debuts Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Debuts a Pair of Purple Carrera Chronographs, Including a Glassbox Tourbillon, for LVMH Watch Week

LVMH Watch Week has quickly become a yearly staple on the release calendar for watch enthusiasts since its inaugural year in 2020. A mix of novelties and staple collections have graced the headlines acting as a special kickoff to the new year and this year is no different. What immediately caught my eye though was a pair of Carrera Chronographs sporting a new-to-the-model dial color. Enter the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Tourbillon in purple. Equipped with a smoky black-to-purple gradient backdrop, the Glassbox design family continues to grow. Following the release of the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial in 2022, I had assumed that we would see this color trend carried throughout the rest of the catalog. With that model being discontinued and somewhat hard to come by, it is not surprising that the tourbillon model was also slapped with the LE designation. What is a surprise though is that the standard Carrera Chronograph is not limited and is entering standard production. This will hopefully give those lusting to add an excellent pop of purple into their collection the opportunity as these begin to trickle out to authorized retailers, though I do suspect that they will still be a bit hard to come by immediately. By far the standout feature of the watch is its appearance. Appearing almost black in medium to low light conditions, the purple breaks through in direct light playing with its sunray-brushed surface. The effect lends dimensionality and versatility to the design ...

First Look - The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Jan 20, 2025

First Look - The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For

A Chopard L.U.C watch offering a perpetual calendar complication with a tourbillon regulator is not new to the series. In 2013, Chopard presented its L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was then followed by two extraordinary unique pieces in 2018, the “La Santa Muerte” decorated with the Mexican motifs and “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac” in […]

First Look - The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Lunar One Jan 20, 2025

First Look - The Beautifully Refreshed Aesthetics of the Chopard L.U.C Lunar One

The L.U.C Lunar One was Chopard’s first calendar and astronomy complication. Unveiled in 2005, the model combines a perpetual calendar and a precision orbital moon phase display in a rotating aperture. Twenty years later, Chopard revisits its L.U.C Lunar One with a more compact basin-style case, a trimmer, more legible dial decorated with hand-guilloché in […]

My Watches May Be Strap Monsters, But I’m Not Worn & Wound
Jan 16, 2025

My Watches May Be Strap Monsters, But I’m Not

I’m not a big fan of New Year’s Resolutions. Despite my own participation in the tradition, the idea of trying to tie major life changes or new habits to something as both arbitrary and specific as the New Year has always been somewhat anathema to me. Still, despite my resistance to making specific commitments at the start of a fresh calendar year, I don’t think there’s any doubt that the arrival of January can set the stage for a refresh. It’s in that mindset that I found myself spending much of the last week reorganizing basically my whole life. And by my whole life, I mean my desk (and the various drawers and organizers that surround it). A primary focus of this odyssey has been a set of metal Ikea drawers that operate as the functional center of my watch habit. One area in need of particular attention here was my strap drawer, in no small part because of its increasing annexation of other parts of my organizational ecosystem - a problem exacerbated by a shift in approach that existed in direct conflict with my existing storage logic. I don’t remember who first introduced them to me, but for the last few years, I’ve been storing my straps in a slowly increasing count of Muji Polypropylene Pen Cases (I think I first saw them on another collector’s Instagram, but for the life of me I can’t remember whose). With two compartments, one large enough for straps, the other perfectly sized for spring bars or loose links, these cheap plastic pencil cases make ...

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Tudor money Jan 16, 2025

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition

This week, at their annual press event in Vail, CO, Oris unveiled the latest edition of the Divers Sixty-Five, the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition. While some have met the news of yet another trip to the Divers Sixty Five well with some confusion or bemusement considering the big launch of its natural successor, the Divers Date, last year, the writing was on the wall that this was coming. I mean, it’s right there in the name of the watch, and the arithmetic is easy. Nobody misses a chance to celebrate an anniversary in this industry, and the Divers Sixty-Five is more than worthy of the treatment.  Before we get into the specifics of the new model, which we’re told is the true swan song for the Divers Sixty-Five, I think it’s worth stepping back and looking at the origins of the Sixty-Five and what makes it a genuinely important watch in the realm of enthusiast focused divers. While the original Divers Sixty-Five did indeed debut 60 years ago, the modern revival version has had a much more widespread impact. Oris brought the Sixty-Five back about ten years ago in a watch climate that was really beginning to see vintage inspired watches, particularly midcentury sports watches and divers, gain traction. The timing was perfect, and for new enthusiasts entering the hobby in those heady days, the Divers Sixty-Five was an easy recommendation on forums (remember those?) if a new collector wasn’t quite ready to spend Tudor money. The Sixty-Five not only offered ...

Introducing - IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic Monochrome
IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Jan 7, 2025

Introducing - IWC Discreetly Drops New Red Gold Versions of the Updated Portugieser 40 and 42 Automatic

2024 was all about the Portugieser at IWC, the brand’s most classic and elegant collection. Of course, the star of the show was the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a secular calendar watch that made it to our list of the best watches of the year. There were many more updated versions of this emblematic watch launched […]

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025 SJX Watches
Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster!

Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Bovet Dec 18, 2024

Bovet Introduces Retrograde Perpetual with Sapphire Dial

Bovet’s latest creation, the Récital 21, is a perpetual calendar with retrograde date presented in a modern style. The large, 44.4 mm titanium case contains tinted sapphire dial that reveals the calendar mechanism with twist: the retrograde date hand is damped so it gradually returns to the origin rather than jumping instantaneously. Initial thoughts Bovet is best known for its large complications, some of which are elaborately and intricately styled. The Récital 21 is classic Bovet, but in a slightly more approachable format. It’s a complicated watch but in a more contemporary package, especially with the sapphire dial and luminous markings. The case is (slightly) more wearable, though it has the signature sloped “writing desk” case, which is not for everyone but distinctive nonetheless. As is typical for Bovet, the movement is in-house and impressively spec’ed. Notably, it incorporates the patented co-axial double seconds (that’s visible on the front and back), and a five-day power reserve. Sapphire dial The polished titanium case is 44.4 mm in diameter. In the usual Bovet style, the case slopes downwards from 12 to six o’clock, hence the “writing desk” nickname. Though large, it has short lugs for wearability. Offered in green, blue, or brown tint, the sapphire crystal dial reveals the calendar module that’s enhanced by a damping mechanism that deliberately slows the date hand during its return. All of the calendar indications can be adjusted via ...

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Dec 10, 2024

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition

On a new release calendar that’s full of limited edition collaborations that don’t always make a ton of logical sense, it’s refreshing to see one come across our desks that feels like a genuine meeting of the minds. Oak & Oscar is a longtime fixture in the micro/independent brand space, and at this point it’s fair to say that they’ve carved out a pretty recognizable niche for themselves. When you think of Oak & Oscar, you probably immediately think of the brand’s midwest roots, a love of the outdoors, and, of course, bourbon. Their latest release, a 50 piece limited collaboration with the St. Louis County Rescue Squad, combines at least two of these ideas, and the result is a handsome, sporty GMT that first right in Oak & Oscar’s wheelhouse.  For context, the St. Louis County Rescue Squad is made up of volunteers who provide lifesaving services to outdoor enthusiasts visiting northern Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). As Oak & Oscar explains, the BWCA is an “outdoor-lover’s dream,” featuring hiking trails, camping, canoeing, and more. Oak & Oscar became a member of the Boundary Waters Business Coalition in 2021, a sign of their commitment to the preservation of the BWCA. To that end, the new Humboldt GMT SAR Edition serves as a reminder of that commitment, as well as a means to help fund the efforts of the St. Louis County Rescue Squad (a portion of the proceeds from the sale of these watches will be donated to the Squad).  This new lim...

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million Nov 28, 2024

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired by Vianney Halter’s Antiqua SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired Nov 28, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired by Vianney Halter’s Antiqua

Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial. The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world. The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition Initial thoughts Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab. The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collabo...

A Closer Look At The New Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 Endless Summer Worn & Wound
Casio nal cool breeze   Nov 12, 2024

A Closer Look At The New Timex X Worn & Wound WW75 V3 Endless Summer

Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch fan, collector, and enthusiast knows and enjoys, whether they are just starting with this hobby or have every grail one could imagine. There is an undeniable charm to their fun designs and lack of pretension, two things we highly value at W&W;.The simple act of looking at a watch can do far more than reveal the time. It can inspire us to push our limits, it can bring back a memory, it can simply bring joy. Upon revisiting the Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 for the third and final time in this configuration, we wanted to create a watch that did more than look good, though that was achieved – we wanted it to take you from where you are and transport you back to the end of summer. Back to that time when the weather was first starting to turn, you realized the sun was setting sooner, and a bittersweet nostalgia seemed to creep in on the occasional cool breeze.   Affordable, mechanical, and stylish are why we’re excited to bring the third version of Timex x Worn & Wound WW75 into the world. When we first worked with Timex on this project a few years ago, we didn’t expect it to be an annual event, but we are absolutely thrilled that it is. Timex is a brand every watch f...

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons Marquetry Nov 12, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Tourbillons, Marquetry and Multi-Axis

Continuing its annual tradition, Vacheron Constantin (VC) reveals the year’s Les Cabinotiers collection of one-of-a-kind watches that are both technically complex and decorated by skilled artisans. The line-up includes two distinct tourbillon offerings, Le Temps Divin Ode to the Four Guardians featuring marquetry dials inspired by mythical animals of East Asia, and Le Temps Divin Armillary Tourbillon Greek Mythology, a pair of double-axis tourbillons featuring hand-engraved decor. “Divine time” Known for its pursuit of traditional artisanal techniques like enamelling, wood marquetry, and engraving, the Geneva watchmaker integrates such decorative techniques into its Metiers d’Art and Les Cabinotiers timepieces, which are as much works of art as they are timekeepers. This year’s collection is titled Le Temps Divin, or “Divine Time”. Though united by a tourbillon regulator, the new models are each very different, both in the thematic inspirations as well as the decorative and technical execution.  Le Temps Divin refers to the mythological concepts of time from different cultural perspectives. The quartet of “Ode to the Four Guardians” tourbillons is inspired by four mythological creatures of East Asian culture, each representing one season. The Armillary Tourbillon pair, on the other hand, focuses on the ancient Greek god of time, the titan Chronos. The fabled creatures of the East Ode to the Four Guardians draws inspiration from the four seasons and the...

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1500A Nov 4, 2024

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

Patek Philippe Cubitus Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Oct 17, 2024

Patek Philippe Cubitus

The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Oct 15, 2024

The Habring² Oskar is a Classical Moon Phase

Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style  The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...

The Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Paneristi’s 25 Years SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Oct 11, 2024

The Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 Celebrates Paneristi’s 25 Years

Established in 2000 just as Panerai was started on its ascent to being the hottest brand of the following decade, Paneristi is a community of brand enthusiasts. Panerai is marking the group’s 25th anniversary with the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025, which was just launched at P-Day 2024, an annual global gathering of Panerai fans that just took place in Kuala Lumpur. According to Panerai, the PAM02025 was conceived as a modern take on the Luminor 1950 PAM00127 “Fiddy”. Employing the 44 mm Luminor 1950 case, the PAM02025 has the classic Luminor design, but with modern aesthetic tweaks, including a “brunito” steel case of brushed, aged alloy and a gradient blue “sandwich” dial. Initial thoughts The PAM02025 has many elements that will appeal to Panerai enthusiasts who like its traditional designs, including the pencil hands and “upside down” crown-lock bridge. Panerai certainly took note of the feedback about the prior Paneristi edition that sported a large anniversary emblem on the dial (which is now relegated to the case back). It’s best described as a modernised take on the historical Luminor since the design is old school, but the smoked blue dial and “brunito” steel case mark it out as a watch of today. No doubt some Paneristi will have left out the modern elements and opted for the larger, 47 mm case plus a correspondingly larger movement, but the PAM02025 is a good compromise between new and old – different but doesn’t feel like it’s trying...

First Look - The Atelier Wen Perception Millésime, in Titanium With Purple Dial (And something Tantalum too…) Monochrome
Atelier Wen Oct 7, 2024

First Look - The Atelier Wen Perception Millésime, in Titanium With Purple Dial (And something Tantalum too…)

Chinese watchmaker Atelier Wen, led by two Frenchmen, is launching the first timepiece in its annual “Millésime” series, designed to provide greater access for enthusiasts who previously missed out on owning a limited edition Perception watch due to fixed production runs as agreed with collaborative partners. In contrast with earlier limited editions released as partnerships, […]

A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet Three Oct 7, 2024

A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet

Three years ago, I had the pleasure of wearing the Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet for a little while. The combination of a 40mm steel case with a characteristic stepped bezel, a classic white dial, and a complete-calendar caliber proved an impressive watch at a competitive price. I wrote that the watch that bucks the retro […] Visit A Monday-Morning Reunion With The Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic Fratello
Oct 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic

It’s been a while since we covered an Undone watch. The Hong Kong-based brand is widely known among watch enthusiasts for its affordable timepieces. Undone’s latest creation is the Urban Automatic, a triple-calendar watch that’s the first mechanical model in the vintage-inspired Urban series. I have always liked the Urban line because it takes inspiration […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic to read the full article.

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Oct 2, 2024

First Look - The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zenith Sep 25, 2024

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition

Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations.  The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal.  For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Sep 24, 2024

It’s Cocktail Time Again: Seiko Introduces Two New Limited Editions in their Long Running Series of Cocktail Inspired Watches

There are a handful of constants in the watch world that are truly worth celebrating: the annual crush of people on Geneva each spring for Watches & Wonders, the annual debate over whether a “summer watch” is a thing, and that first comment on any IG post that begs a watch to be a millimeter or two smaller. Like clockwork (pardon the pun) you can count on these things, year in and year out, and there’s comfort in that. Another reliable watch industry trope comes to us on a regular basis from Seiko in the form of the Cocktail Time limited edition, a tradition that began with a watch that is a true enthusiast icon, and now stands as a running series of just plain good dress watches that Seiko is somehow able to keep at a remarkably affordable price point.  The legend of the Cocktail Time really begins in earnest with the SARB065, a Japanese domestic market release that caught on with collectors in an earlier era of watch enthusiasm (the early 2010s) when message boards ruled the day. This particular watch is one that I can remember owning years ago and also being among the chorus of internet commenters recommending it to new enthusiasts when the inevitable question of “what dress watch under $XXX should I buy?” would come up. The new Cocktail Time watches, references SRPK93 and SRE015, are said to be inspired by the city of Tokyo at night, and the “Night-time Tokyo” cocktail created by STAR BAR owner Hisashi Kishi. Kishi is a celebrated creator of craft cockta...