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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Albishorn Goes Green with the Thundergraph Khumbu SJX Watches
Apr 2, 2026

Albishorn Goes Green with the Thundergraph Khumbu

Albishorn returns with a new interpretation of its mountaineering chronograph, the Thundergraph Khumbu, swapping the original’s petroleum blue dial for a green colourway and introducing the brand’s first-ever bracelet option. Like its predecessor, the watch draws inspiration from the 1952 Swiss expeditions to Everest, this time taking its name from the Khumbu region of Nepal traversed by the climbing party on its approach to the mountain. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the original Thundergraph when it launched last year - it was my favourite Albishorn to that point. The Khumbu does not reinvent anything, but the bracelet option is a meaningful addition that should widen the appeal to a new segment of collectors. The stainless steel case is carried over unchanged at 39 mm at the case band, expanding to 42.7 mm across the bezel. The asymmetric form, red anodised aluminium monopusher at 9:30, and bronze crown engraved with the Albishorn logo - appropriately modeled on a snow-capped peak - are all retained. The case back also carries the same Swiss cross and rope engraving, the emblem of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, which remains one of the more convincing elements of the brand’s ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. Khumbu green The petroleum blue dial of the original Thundergraph has been replaced by a mint green opaline hue, said to be inspired by the Khumbu glacier region, where vegetation survives in a harsh environment of ice and rock. The disti...

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 2, 2026

Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery

Konstantin Chaykin unveils the ultimate version of his ultra-thin opus, the ThinKing Mystery. A 12-piece limited edition that refines the ideas from his original prototype, the ThinKing has reached maturity. The fact that Mr Chaykin achieved this without the help of big-budget research and developments facilities is a testament to the Moscow-based watchmaker’s technical prowess. The thoughtful process of updating the ThinKing platform prior to commercialisation speaks highly of his engineering rigour. Initial thoughts We covered the first ThinKing prototype when it launched two years ago in the fall of 2024. The timepiece remains to this day the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring just 1.65 mm from top to case back. A staggering 1.65 mm thickness. The ThinKing implemented a number of interesting mechanical choices and made some compromises to fit an entire timekeeper to fit in a meagre 1.65 mm-thick space. Like other ultra-thin record-chasers, the case doubles as the movement mainplate, making the ThinKing, in a sense, a raw movement bound to a strap. To reduce the height of the oscillator, its components were spread out horizontally. The barrel was rethought to incorporate a click wheel inside the mainspring arbour, shaving precious height. The first prototype was cheating a little too, since it could not be set or wound without a separate docking module called the Palanking. Compared to other ultra-thin watches, which require (at most) a pen-like winding and...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection Fratello
Doxa Sub 200 II Collection Mar 30, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection

It’s that time of year when the new releases start to trickle out in preparation for the season’s watch shows. However, there’s something else on the horizon that still seems unfathomable in some geographies. Finally, Summer is coming. As a result, a brand like Doxa is always active and takes the opportunity to introduce novelties. […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection to read the full article.

Omega Reinvents the Constellation SJX Watches
Omega Reinvents Mar 26, 2026

Omega Reinvents the Constellation

Omega is reviving one of its classics with the Constellation Observatory, a tribute to the manufacture’s illustrious past. The new Constellation collection returns to the “pie pan” dial that Omega devotees have championed for years, and represents a strong bid from the Bienne-based manufacture to reassert itself in the market for high-end dress watches. The 21st century Constellation “Pie Pan” adopts many aesthetic cues of the vintage original, made during Omega’s heyday in the mid-20th century, but is resolutely a modern-day Omega wristwatch in quality and technology. From solid gold dials to proprietary alloys to a latest-generation movement, the Constellation Observatory has it all. The new Omega Constellation Observatory collection. Initial thoughts Omega’s recent efforts in dress-watch chronometers have been less cohesive and arguably less successful than the competition. The Constellation Manhattan with its integrated bracelet design differs from what most expect from a dress watch, while the De Ville line is handsome enough, but lacking the distinctiveness that serious dress watch collectors expect. In contrast, the Constellation Observatory is a serious effort that captures much of the magic of one of Omega’s most beloved historical designs, namely the Constellations of the 1950s and 1960s. The look is not too dissimilar from last year’s Seamaster 37 mm Milano Cortina, limited edition that met with commercial and critical success.  With the Obser...

Audemars Piguet Expands Geneva Bracelet Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 23, 2026

Audemars Piguet Expands Geneva Bracelet Manufacture

Audemars Piguet (AP) is increasing its presence in what’s historically been the territory of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Not only is AP returning to Watches & Wonders, the industry’s flagship event held each year in Geneva, the brand is also expanding its footprint in the city’s suburb of Meyrin with an expanded case and bracelet manufacture. What and where Meyrin was already the home of AP’s case and bracelet manufacture, but the brand has been bulking up on industrial capacity and took over a U-shaped building, completed in 1965 for a pharmaceutical company, in 2023. The new facility increases its Geneva footprint almost four-fold, to 9,000 square metres, with room for 350 staff. While the brand has built new structures closer to home, the choice to renovate an existing historical building is notable. Fortunately AP’s employees won’t be stuck in the past, as the building has been modernised for energy management and to accommodate modern machines. The building is a short jaunt from Les Boîtiers de Genève, F.P. Journe’s case and bracelet manufacture, in what’s already a hotbed of horological activity, home to brands like Roger Dubuis and Chopard. In addition, the new facility will be home to what the brand is calling its New Technologies hub, presumably part of the brand’s new approach to research and development, known internally as the ‘Fab Lab.’ Industrial excellence We recently had the chance to hear directly from AP’s chief indu...

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 True GMT Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 19, 2026

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 True GMT

Christopher Ward’s releases basically fall into two categories for me. There are the watches that the brand clearly intends to have broad appeal across a wide segment of the watch market. This is really most of their watches. Think of the Sealander and Trident collections, and indeed most of the Twelves, and you have watches that are very well made and attractive but not exactly groundbreaking. Then there’s the Loco, the Bel Canto, and some of their more experimental pieces that play with aventurine and sapphire dial elements. These watches veer into the avant-garde and serve as showcases for what Christopher Ward is capable of at a higher (but still very fair) price point. I’ll admit, I’m partial to the latter, and less interested in the former. The Loco and Bel Canto in particular really demonstrate Christopher Ward’s ambition to be more than just a former maker of homage watches. These watches fully escape the brand’s roots.  Their latest release, the C63 True GMT, sits somewhere in the middle. Built on the Sealander platform, the new True GMT is exactly what it says on the tin: a sporty multi-time zone watch with an independently jumping local hour hand. A “true” travel GMT, offering significantly more use while on the move between time zones than a “caller GMT,” still the standard for this type of watch under about $5,000.  What makes this watch special is that it represents nearly as much movement innovation and development as the brand’s more...

Hands On: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT Mar 19, 2026

Hands On: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT

The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander True GMT fills a conspicuous gap in the brand’s catalogue with a proper ‘flyer’ GMT, complete with an independently adjustable local-time hour hand. A handsome, expensive-looking dial conceals the new CW-002 movement, which is COSC-certified and offers a five-day power reserve - a rare pairing. While collectors have noticed that Christopher Ward’s pricing has risen steadily in recent years, the True GMT makes a compelling case that the technical substance has kept pace. The journeyman brand Christopher Ward (CW) is a brand that is evolving unusually rapidly, and seems to have been in a state of almost constant transformation since it was founded in 2004. The brand has cycled through a number of different logos in a fairly short period of time, which has confused collectors. The product mix has also shifted, reflecting more upmarket ambitions that have priced out fans of the brand’s early budget products. This instability has turned off some collectors, which is understandable - most luxury brands are fairly conservative, in part to emphasise the long-lasting social capital that comes with a purchase. That said, CW seems to have finally found an identity worth sticking to. The new logo, which combines England’s St. George’s Cross and the white cross of the Swiss flag, is simple and appealing, and concisely communicates the English/Swiss origin. And while it’s true that prices have crept up, the brand has increased innov...

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 17, 2026

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300

Inspired by RJ’s recent article on five years of owning the Omega’s current Moonwatch, today, I’ll reflect on my experience. Indeed, 2021 was a barnstorming year for Omega. On the first Tuesday of 2021, the brand released an updated Moonwatch with many design and quality improvements. Then, in March, came a slew of new references, […] Visit Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300 to read the full article.

Four Times I Was Wrong About Watch Collecting Worn & Wound
Mar 16, 2026

Four Times I Was Wrong About Watch Collecting

Try to think of an objective fact about watches. If you’re anything like me, it’s a task that sounds simple at first, but quickly turns into a surprisingly difficult thought experiment.  After some head scratching, my attempt at this exercise ended with a relatively short list, made up mostly of historical facts and a small number of all-encompassing physical descriptions: Watches were invented in the 16th century. They tell time, generally, and are powered by some sort of movement- quartz, mechanical, electric, tuning fork, or otherwise. They are round, or not. And have three hands, or more… and sometimes none at all.  As it turns out, objective facts about watches are in short supply, which by default makes mastering the subjective a primary element of watch collecting. Luckily for me and all the other self-proclaimed voices of authority spamming the forums alongside me, becoming an expert boils down to the ability to pick (usually meticulously researched) standpoints where the stakes are low and our personal beliefs are inherently never wrong. In the very first article I wrote for Worn & Wound back in 2023, I stated that forming opinions was one of my favorite things about the hobby. In the time since I picked the premise of individual stances as my first published words on this site, I’ve formed countless of them, and still find tremendous joy in doing so. Watches are round…or not Some of my early opinions (such as a logoed counterbalance on the second hand...

Our Favorite Watches at the 2026 Oscars Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 16, 2026

Our Favorite Watches at the 2026 Oscars

Tonight is the grand finale of this year's awards season, with the 98th Academy Awards closing things out with a bang. With almost more glamour, fashion, and celebrity than the average mortal can stand, all these ingredients add up to one of the most exciting watch-spotting nights of the year.  We put our editors to the task of combing through wrists on the red carpet for the most compelling, shocking, surprising, and awe-inspiring watches in the game, which they have so graciously curated for your viewing pleasure down below. Let us know your favorite in the comments section! Matt Friend: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Ref. 126518LN) Comedian and actor (and watch shopping guest) Matt Friend wears a yellow gold Rolex Daytona Ref. 126518LN which debuted last year in 2025 and is a little special due to its combination of a yellow gold case and a turquoise lacquer dial that evokes the highly collectible vintage “Stella” dials. Hudson Williams: Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Heated Rivalry star Hudson Williams wears a Bulgari Serpenti Ref. 103434 in steel with a single coil and diamond-set face, retailing for $11,200. Kevin O'Leary: Cartier Crash Skeleton and A Ruby-Set Rolex Daytona  Kevin O’Leary double-wrists with a platinum Cartier Crash Skeleton Ref. W7200001 and an off-catalog Rolex Daytona Ref. 126599 TRU done in white gold with baguette-set rubies on the bezel and dial. Leonardo DiCaprio: Rolex 1908 Platinum  Rolex Testimonee and Best Actor nominee for his work in One Ba...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs Overseas Mar 15, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time to sit down with a cup of coffee for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head with two gold Vacheron Constantin watches. Jorg’s pick is the yellow gold Historiques 222, which came out in 2024 and garnered much praise for reviving the brand’s 1977 classic. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin released Mar 12, 2026

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the New Minute Repeater Flying Bridges

And just like that, it’s Super Watch Season. Every year we see a handful of watches that come to market that exist for the purpose of displaying the absolute pinnacle of what a brand can accomplish. Think of ultra complicated watches from Vacheron Constantin released in recent years, or pieces from Greubel Forsey focused on extravagant hand finishing and machining. The new release from Girard-Perregaux feels like a member of this rare category.  The new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges combines a tourbillon and a minute repeater with GP’s famous “Three Bridges” movement architecture. The highlight here, beyond the rarity of a repeater, is that the new Calibre GP9530 is a self-winding movement (via a micro-rotor), which is exceedingly rare among chiming watches and, to a lesser extent, tourbillons.  Girard-Perregaux has a long history in chiming watches that dates back to the 1820s, and the Minute Repeater Flying Bridges is fashioned as a tribute to those earliest repeaters, while being unapologetically contemporary in its design. Certainly part of that tribute is in the craftsmanship itself, and in the use of the most modern technology available to create the best chiming mechanism possible. To that end, the movement has been radically skeletonized not only for aesthetic reasons but to prioritize resonance. According to the brand, every technical choice made in the development of the new watch was made in the name of optimizing the sound of the chime. For a repeat...

State of the Industry: Vontobel on the Redrawn Watch Market SJX Watches
Mar 6, 2026

State of the Industry: Vontobel on the Redrawn Watch Market

Last month Vontobel published its annual report on the Swiss watch industry, revealing a startling shakeup for the pecking order, with a rapidly growing share of the market going to industry giants, anaemic growth, and a few signs of hope. Another of the key points made in the report published by Vontobel, a family-controlled Swiss private bank, is influence of external factors beyond the industry’s control, like the strong Swiss franc and continuously climbing gold prices, but which have nonetheless played a major role in its recent development. Long the go-to publication for industry insiders, the Vontobel watch report has been published annually for well over a decade - and since 2021, the report has been authored by Jean-Philippe Bertschy, the bank’s head of Swiss equity research (pictured above). The strong franc Before getting into the numbers, it’s worth looking at the broader macroeconomic environment affecting the industry. The strong franc and weak dollar are headwinds for the export-oriented Swiss watch industry, and, like erratic US trade policy and soaring gold prices, entirely outside its control. In nominal terms, total Swiss watch exports declined for the second year in a row, down 1.7% to CHF25.5 billion, following a 2.8% decline the year before. However, the Swiss franc’s appreciation casts a more sympathetic light on these numbers. For example, if you sold a watch for US$100 this time last year, that revenue would have converted to about CHF90....

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Mar 5, 2026

Grand Seiko White Birch Review: A Brand-Defining Future Classic

Grand Seiko is a brand that’s adept at making the intricate seem effortless. This talent for restraint is best demonstrated dial side, specifically with its play with textures that call for a second (or third, fourth, and so on) look. While the deceptively simple “Snowflake” dial is among the brand’s most renowned examples of its mastery of subtlety, today, I’m pulling focus to another iconic example of Grand Seiko’s dial mastery with the more dramatic White Birch variation. Down below, I’ll be breaking down the importance of the “White Birch” SLGH005 in Grand Seiko’s recent history, some of its guiding design philosophies, as well as all the necessary specs you need to know. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Debuting in 2021, the SLGH005 with its “White Birch” dial marked a historic turning point for the brand, and in the years since, it has become regarded as an example of the brand’s strengths firing on all cylinders. Before its introduction, Grand Seiko had already become synonymous with intricately textural dials (which, of course, drew inspiration from the natural world), but the White Birch texture is really when the brand turned up the heat an extra notch.  Before, the brand largely relied on radial and horizontal textures, and it isn’t a coincidence that the continuous series honoring the Japanese micro-seasons (most famous being the “Shun-bun”) was already in play before the White Birch hit the scene. Many of these dials...

Marathon Expands the Anthracite SAR Collection Worn & Wound
Marathon Mar 5, 2026

Marathon Expands the Anthracite SAR Collection

Like the now-ubiquitous diver and pilot styles, the mil-spec field watch is experiencing a moment in the sun. The appeal is easy to understand: much like how the original Willy’s Jeep took to post-war civilian life by offering cheap, rugged, and reliable transportation, the military-styled field watch offers significant toughness while keeping functionality simple and usable for everyday telling. Put simply, it’s a romantic promise of adventure and bravado, scaled down to wristsize. Canadian watchmaker Marathon has been making mil-spec timepieces since WWII, and has offered tactical variants like the 41mm Anthracite GSAR for those looking for that covert ops image; the new 46mm Anthracite Jumbo Day/Date, and the 36mm Anthracite MSAR Auto straddle that original model in the Anthracite lineup, and offer further complications for the enthusiast audience. The two new models in the Anthracite Search and Rescue (SAR) Unit borrow heavily from their 41mm predecessor in both styling and construction. Both feature a 316L stainless steel case with titular Anthracite finish, a uni-directional bezel, a screw-down crown, and tritium gas tube and MaraGlo luminous numerals, hands, and markers. Visually, the watches look very similar; Marathon’s legible and surprisingly un-aggressive typefaces keep the white numerals crisp and clear against the black dial. The overall styling is complicated but not visually distracting, an important aesthetic facet for a field watch.  On the 46mm mo...

The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Rolex Air King Feb 16, 2026

The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch

The vintage watch market is constantly littered with timepieces featuring organizational logos, slogans, and company mascots on their dials. Wristwatch anniversary gifts and promotional products were incredibly common throughout the 20th and early 21st centuries because of their ability to advertise on someone’s wrist, similar to cars with advertising wraps for insurance and real estate companies nowadays. Many of these watches have degraded in value over time as a result of their engraved case backs and personalizations that some collectors find unappealing. However, there are some timepieces of this genre that hold their value to this day, my favorite example being the iconic Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King that always seems to worm its way onto my Instagram feed. The watch at the heart of this article would easily be passed by many collectors on their escapades through online auction websites. I’ll admit it: I glanced right over the listing several times when it was first posted, foolishly thinking it was another inexpensive piece of advertising from the 1970s. It wasn’t until I put two-and-two together, realizing that the Italian-American Civil Rights League was an organization I had previously researched and had established an interest in, that I went back and instantly added the watch to my cart. For those of you unfamiliar with this organization and its history, allow me to introduce you to them and illustrate just how rare this watch’s existence is today. A...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Feb 15, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT

It’s that time of the week again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This time, Mike and Jorg face off in a battle of rugged GMTs. Jorg’s pick is the recently introduced Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT, which takes on Mike’s Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT. Both are rugged GMT pieces with dive-watch roots. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch Fratello
Feb 12, 2026

Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch

For many of us, there’s a clear line between the watches we liked and the first one we considered “serious.” Maybe it was the first mechanical piece we bought with our hard-earned money. Maybe it was the first watch that required actual research, comparison, and a deep breath before hitting “confirm order.” In today’s episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: Different Approaches To Buying Your First “Serious” Watch to read the full article.

Precious, Not Pretentious: Introducing the Niton Prima Worn & Wound
Cartier Feb 9, 2026

Precious, Not Pretentious: Introducing the Niton Prima

The great thing about watches is that, although they all essentially do the same thing, plus or minus some bells and whistles, there are an infinite number of ways to achieve it. Whether through form, function, or fashion, cleverness finds a way. I’ve been looking at watches for almost my entire life, but professionally for 15 years, and I can still be surprised and excited by a new release. It’s part of what makes this industry so great to be a part of. But, this isn’t about me; rather, it’s about a watch that both surprised and excited: the Niton Prima. Niton (pronounced nee-tone) is an old and obscure brand name revived by two veterans of the watch industry, Leopoldo Celi and Yvan Ketterer, who combined have several decades of experience in design, production, and marketing. Originally founded in 1919, Niton was known for its movement manufacturing and for supplying to brands such as Patek, Cartier, and Chopard. It was also one of the largest producers of movements with Geneva Seal certification. A certification dating to 1886, among its many requirements, which cover everything from reliability to finishing standards, are that movements are assembled, adjusted, and cased in Geneva. credit: Bonhams In 1928, Niton registered a jump-hour design with a distinct display, placing the hour window above separate minute and seconds sub-dials, much like a regulator. Featured in wrist watches and pocketwatches, it’s this complication, identified by Leopoldo and Yvan as ...