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REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 WatchAdvice
Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 Aug 24, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461

We love a watch with colour, so we were happy to go hands-on with the new King Seiko SPB461 with the burgundy “grape” coloured dial for a week. What We Love The burgundy dial pops The bracelet’s look and feel Easy to wear, set, and forget watch What We Don’t The size may be a little small for some wrists Accuracy could be greater at the price point Darker coloured dial adds more light reflection compared to the lighter dials Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 King Seiko in its modern form hasn’t been around all that long. Having been re-launched in 2021 as a limited-edition re-creation of an original design, it was so successful among watch enthusiasts is was then subsequently launched as a regular lineup in 2022. Interestingly, each model in the King Seiko range is based on an original model from 1965, and when you look at the design codes, style, and sizing, you can see these ’60s vibes coming through. The original King Seiko from 1965. When you compare the original to the modern version, coloured dial aside, you can see exactly where all the design cues originated from. We covered a little bit of the history of King Seiko in our Hands On Review of the blue dial King Seiko KS1969 that Sameera wrote a week ago, and if you’ve not read it yet, then I suggest you check it out here. But in a nutshell, King Seiko started in 1961 when Daini Seikosha (Seiko), having concentrated on ladies pieces star...

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Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Aug 22, 2024

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition

Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.

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Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 Aug 22, 2024

Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005

Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...

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In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

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Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko During last year’s Watches Aug 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko

During last year’s Watches and Wonders, I repeatedly stated that €10K is the new €5K. This is something that applies to what it feels like you get watch-wise at the given price point. I raised the bar even further to €15K in this year’s Geneva show. For those of us who have been around, it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K- RJ’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Aug 18, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.

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[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex SPB451 Aug 16, 2024

[Video] Review: the Seiko Prospex SPB451 And SPB453 Divers

There are a few different ways to approach reviewing the newest dive watches from Seiko. The SPB453, SPB451, and SPB455 were announced earlier this year and were immediately dissected across Instagram, watch forums, and private group chats throughout the watch spectrum. That’s what you’d expect, right? These follow ups to the incredibly popular SPB143 and its many, many siblings represent the core version of the core watch within Seiko’s core collection. At least to enthusiasts, these watches are quintessential, like a white cotton t-shirt, a Bic pen, or even an iPhone. They’re staples, they’re for everyone, but there’s also a deep interest in them as aesthetic objects, tools, collectibles, and everything else that drives our hobby.  Writing about these watches poses a challenge. One tactic is to compare and contrast with the prior version, something Zach Weiss does a great job of in the video linked below. Another option is to attempt to evaluate these new watches as if they exist in a vacuum, without taking into account how they relate to the many versions that came before it. This includes, don’t forget, not only the SPB143 (and, as we’ll always point out, the many derivatives that came out of that release) but also, if you’re so inclined, the entire breadth of the 62MAS family tree. This extends all the way back to 1966 and includes a great many re-issues and re-interpretations. Even massive Seiko fans, I think (I expect), must feel fatigue in consid...

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Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Aug 15, 2024

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time is a fan favorite for good reason. Whether you prefer the 42mm or the 39mm, you get a fantastic daily travel-friendly watch with outstanding finishing that trumps most rivals. With two sizes and many colors already available, we knew the day would come when Longines would add a titanium version. […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Aug 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer

It shouldn’t be too hard to pick three favorites from all those sub-€10k watches out there, right? However, Thomas and Jorg have already cherry-picked some classics away from me. I also wanted to stay away from the other evergreens and come up with a few more original picks. That’s why it actually took me quite […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Daan’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Zenith, And TAG Heuer to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGA507 Aug 12, 2024

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models

Grand Seiko is the unofficial master of finding inspiration in natural phenomena. Many of the brand’s dials are crafted to resemble skies, waters, and landscapes found all over Japan-these two new USA-exclusive limited editions are no exception. The Grand Seiko SBGA507’s blue dial is inspired by the sky over Lake Suwa at dusk. In turn, […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGA507 And SBGA509-A Pair Of USA-Exclusive Spring Drive Models to read the full article.

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Jorg’s Picks From Zenith, Cartier, And Grand Seiko Fratello
Grand Seiko After Thomas kicked our Aug 12, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Jorg’s Picks From Zenith, Cartier, And Grand Seiko

After Thomas kicked our new series of Fratello Favorites last Friday, I am the second in line to pick my favorites under €10K. As Thomas said, it’s a budget that leaves you spoiled for choice. It’s also the maximum budget that I would seriously consider when buying a watch. While there are plenty of new […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Jorg’s Picks From Zenith, Cartier, And Grand Seiko to read the full article.

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REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969 WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Aug 10, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969

The King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition is a timeless tribute to Seiko’s heritage, reimagined for the modern era. What We Love: Like current Seiko models, this latest King Seiko gets a modern slimmed-down reinterpretation. The multiple polished finishes from the case, bezel, and dial elements to the bracelet! The greenish-blue colour combined with the dragon-scale pattern makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Not everyone may agree with the choice of dial colours for this collection from Seiko The movement needs to match the build quality and high level of finishing on the timepiece. It would’ve been great to get the date wheel to colour-match the new dial colours! Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In July this year, Seiko unveiled a new series of King Seiko dress watches to revive a classic heritage design. Before we get into this latest creation, we first need to look at King Seiko and some of the signature designs that came with it. The name of King Seiko is just as important to Japanese watchmakers as the name and brand of Grand Seiko. The story goes that King Seiko was first launched in 1961 alongside Grand Seiko, who were direct competitors of each other. Seiko did this because of the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection and quality, as the rivalry between King Seiko and Grand Seiko would produce some exceptional timepieces. The 1960s were seen as the golden era for Seiko, as the brand quickly...

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Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Aug 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium

As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces. […] Visit Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium to read the full article.

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Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors Fratello
Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days Aug 7, 2024

Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors

Seiko caught us by surprise when it reintroduced the King Seiko name back in January of 2022. The journey began with five dial variants in a 37mm case. I loved these so much that I immediately ordered one for myself. Now, two-and-a-half years on, Seiko proves that the collection is here to stay. The range […] Visit Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors to read the full article.

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First Look – The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Aug 7, 2024

First Look – The More Compact Seiko King Seiko KSK 36mm SPB457J1, SPB459J1 & SPB461J1

Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the […]

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REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai” WatchAdvice
Seiko s Prospex 4R Diver Aug 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”

We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...

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Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Bring Back Aug 1, 2024

Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture

While Grand Seiko’s history stretches back to the 1960s, the brand’s story in America is quite a bit more contemporary. Grand Seiko, for years, was a true hidden gem in the watch world, an insider’s secret that you had to be fairly deep into the hobby to stumble across in the days before the watch collecting “boom” that we’re still living through. It wasn’t until the Grand Seiko Corporation of America was formed in 2018 that the brand really put down roots in the United States. Obviously, from that point forward, Grand Seiko’s footprint has grown considerably, and we’re way, way past the point where anyone could credibly claim they’re an under the radar enthusiast’s secret. But for those of us who can remember a time well before their flagship NYC boutique, and before these watches were easily accessible anywhere in the states, their periodic US exclusive releases carry special significance.  The latest US exclusive limited editions, references SBGA507 and SBGA509, come at a time when Grand Seiko is experiencing enormous growth and success in the United States. These watches have been designed as a tribute to the very first US exclusive Grand Seiko releases, a trio of limited editions inspired by kirazuri, a traditional method used in Japanese woodblock printing that incorporates mica powder for a sparkling effect. Those limited editions have proven to be quite popular and collectible, so the release of the pair seen here should please collectors who...

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Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition Fratello
Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Aug 1, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition

Today, Seiko introduces a limited edition of a recently updated watch. This is the new Prospex SPB473, which has the specifications of the old, beloved SPB143. This version dials up the summer vibes with a bright faded dial inspired by the Greek island of Zakynthos. There is plenty to unpack, so let’s dive in! The […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Prospex SPB473 European-Exclusive Limited Edition to read the full article.

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First Look – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers “Zakynthos” SPB473 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers “Zakynthos” Aug 1, 2024

First Look – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex 1965 Divers “Zakynthos” SPB473

Usually, when it comes to Seiko Prospex dive watches, and specifically with an emblematic design as the 62Mas, it’s all about black or dark blue. But there are exceptions to the rule and the Japanese watchmaker has shown greater creativity in recent years – take a look at the Save the Ocean series, for instance. […]

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 19, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”

Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...

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Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX Fratello
Seiko SKX Jul 14, 2024

Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX

The Seiko SKX is one of the most popular entry-level mechanical watches ever. There is a good chance that you, as a Fratello reader, have owned one at some point or still do. In any case, this is true for me. However, the original bracelet of that watch has always been controversial. It is infamously […] Visit Upgrade Or Switch Styles With The Forstner Model J And Model O For The Seiko SKX to read the full article.

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