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Results for The COMEX Submariner Story

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

T Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Zenith Oct 9, 2026

The Making of an Iconic Movement: The El Primero

We’re joined by Zenith to get the full story of how one of the world’s first automatic chronographs went from near-extinction to an enduring icon that has powered some of the most celebrated watches of all time. Straight from leading experts, we explore the 50+ year history of the El Primero, still widely used by Zenith today, to understand why it remains one of the most iconic chronograph movements of all time.More

Introducing: The Sexy, Secretive Toledano & Chan Oshinobi, With Commentary From Phil Toledano Hodinkee
Oct 8, 2026

Introducing: The Sexy, Secretive Toledano & Chan Oshinobi, With Commentary From Phil Toledano

This story has been republished from our friends at Hodinkee Australia. What We Know Toledano & Chan, the horological design collaboration between artist and collector Phil Toledano and watch designer Alfred Chan, is back with their latest brutalist architecture-inspired watch, the Oshinobi. This one throws a new concept into the mix: concealment. O-shinobi is a Japanese term used to describe a person of high rank traveling incognito, which should give you a hint at how this Toledano & Chan watch works. It’s a secret watch, fitted with a horizontally sliding cover that reveals an organically shaped and concave dial set with two carats of snow-set diamonds. To fly even further under the radar, the crown is hidden, accessible from the underside of the case at 12 o’clock. The inspiration for the Oshinobi's dial and crystal shape also comes from this idea of concealment, inspired by natural geodes that look like any other rock until they’re cracked open to reveal a world of crystals festooning the inside. The result is this architecturally aggressive bracelet shape that hides an organically shaped, irregularly diamond-studded secret inside. Phil, Jamie, and I sat down over the weekend to talk about the Oshinobi, and he tells me that he’s long been fascinated with vintage secret watches that conceal their dials. Hearing conversations in the watch community about safety concerns about traversing cities with flashy watches, he sees the Oshinobi as the antidote. Phil Toled...

The Business of Watches Podcast: Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi Hodinkee
Oct 7, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Bangalore Watch Company Co-Founder And CEO Nirupesh Joshi

This week on The Business of Watches, we feature a boutique brand and its CEO from a country that has the watch industry abuzz. Nirupesh Joshi is the co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bangalore Watch Company, based in Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), India. Mercy Amalraj and Nirupesh Joshi. Founded in 2018, the company has slowly established itself as a purveyor of premium watchmaking, with models that don't rely on classic tropes about the country to tell their story. Former tech industry executives Joshi and his wife, Mercy Amalraj, are building a brand that aims to express India's modern spirit as the country becomes an increasingly significant economic and cultural player on the world stage. India has a rich watchmaking history, with brands like HMT and Titan producing watches in large volumes to serve its fast-growing population of over 1 billion people. But BWC is seeking a different client, one that's more seasoned in watches, and is seeking a brand that innovates and competes with other marques from around the world to tell its own unique stories.  BWC has grown to about 15 staff members, including watchmakers repatriated from other brands, and has opened a boutique in its home city and produces around 2,000 watches per year, assembled in India using components made both in-country and from suppliers around the world. The company recently raised capital from investors, and Joshi tells us how BWC plans to bring its watches to a wider, global audience. Custo...

Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box Fratello
Rolex Watches Oct 6, 2026

Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box

Say “Rolex” to most people, and their mental image is fully formed before you finish the sentence — a Submariner, maybe a Datejust on a Jubilee bracelet, something that has been photographed on a thousand wrists. For some enthusiasts, that image is precisely the problem. Rolex has produced plenty of watches that never made it […] Visit Five Rolex Watches For Those Thinking Outside The Box to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Celestial Ref 6105G Plus Sep 25, 2026

Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Celestial Ref. 6105G (Plus Technical In-Depth)

We're on the eve of one of Patek Philippe's biggest events every few years: the October 2nd to the 18th presentation of the brand's Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan. On Monday, I'll be flying there for a preview of the exhibition, so stay tuned for stories from that trip coming in the near future. Another story, which has been waiting in the wings and in progress for some time now, was a hands-on look at two of the most surprising (and potentially divisive) releases from Patek this year: the Cubitus perpetual calendar and the Celestial ref. 6105G. While all eyes were on the Nautilus's 50th anniversary, I thought Patek Philippe had a very interesting Watches & Wonders, at least from the perspective of bold releases and brand strategy. Truthfully, they could have done just about anything with the Nautilus, and those lucky enough to get a watch would have been happy. The Celestial alone was a wristwatch with a complication only four other brands have created. But just take a look at the two watches above and the two below. While I didn't get to see the ref. 7047G in person, it raised eyebrows for the very unusual blue tire tread-style dial (à la ref. 6007G) and remarkably strong orange accents and luminous hands and dial placed on a minute repeater that retails north of $570,000. It was perhaps so aesthetically surprising that it distracted people from the fact that Patek was honoring its past with a Calatrava-cased minute repeater reminiscent of the unique ref. 3652 and ...

Introducing - Buci Opens a New Chapter with the Singular Nouvelle Collection Monochrome
Sep 25, 2026

Introducing - Buci Opens a New Chapter with the Singular Nouvelle Collection

Founded in 2022 by Nousseïma Baraket, Buci approaches watchmaking through the written word, taking ideas from books, poetry and different forms of writing. Its debut Garde-Temps collection established this identity, followed by collaborations with seconde/seconde/ and Revolution Watch magazine. With Nouvelle, its second collection, Buci turns to the short story, using the passage of time […]

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio Sep 22, 2026

Introducing - The Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784

Panerai‘s modern movement story began in 2005, when the company introduced the hand-wound P.2002, its first own calibre, combining a GMT function with an eight-day power reserve. In 2007, the brand expanded its calibre family, also introducing Panerai’s own interpretation of the tourbillon movement, the P.2005, with the tourbillon cage on an axis perpendicular to […]

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag Hodinkee
Tudor Northflag It's been Sep 11, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Northflag

It's been a big year for Tudor. The brand is in the midst of a major anniversary celebration, with 2026 marking 100 years since Hans Wilsdorf filed the first paperwork that eventually led to Tudor's creation. Appropriately, that anniversary has been the dominant story this year, and it was reflected in their major novelty for Watches & Wonders 2026: the Tudor Monarch. That watch was, I think, largely a successful launch for the brand, and the supporting releases, though subtle, were meaningful and (in some cases) necessary. Still, for those of us who find ourselves generally drawn to Tudor's more utilitarian offerings, it was easy to feel a little overlooked coming out of Watches & Wonders. That changed last week with the launch of the new Northflag. The new watch is an update on the North Flag from 2015, and is aimed squarely at those looking for a compelling everyday adventure and exploration–ready watch. It does that, but it also brings the same maturity that has begun to permeate the Tudor lineup. But more on that in a minute, because before we talk about the Northflag, I want to talk about the North Flag (I know, vaguely confusing), and to do that, I need to talk about anniversaries. The Tudor North Flag I'm on record in several places as having my doubts about whether this was really the year for Tudor to mark the 100-year milestone. An even cursory look at Tudor's history quickly reveals that, while the Tudor wordmark may have been trademarked in 1926, and while e...

Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity Worn & Wound
Seiko Sep 9, 2026

Six From Seiko: A Roundup of Amazing Chronographs From the Depths of (Relative) Obscurity

Vintage Seiko, as most collectors know, is a rich tapestry. Once you learn the story of Colonel William Pogue, or try to track down the funky bracelet that Bruce Lee paired with his own Speed-Timer, the wormholes naturally open themselves, each with their own dizzying amounts of reference numbers, specific models, and fun nicknames for the mind to notice and then squirrel away for later.  But what about the ones you might have overlooked? Midcentury Seiko chronographs are a riot of design variations, bold patterns, and contrasting color schemes—and all backed by genuine innovation in the guise of the first automatic chronograph, flyback movements with stacked register hands, collaborations with luminary designers, and freakish dabbles with postmodernism. It’s what makes them so much fun to pay attention to.  Hence, these six Seiko chronographs that play with the form, proving that even across the decades there are still surprises to rediscover. Not just familiar references, but obscure offshoots.  Seiko 6138-8000 “Baby Panda” Seiko’s dual-register chronograph debuted shortly after the 6139, which we all know as the world’s first automatic chronograph. And while both watches represent futuristic seventies design, the slimmer 6139 takes a backseat to this lineup’s exaggeratedly bulky cases and clashing, patterned color schemes that have garnered nicknames like “UFO,” “Kakume” (“square eyes”), and “John Player Special” (a nickname popularized ...

The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist Fratello
Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings Sep 9, 2026

The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist

Seiko has slowly but consistently expanded its King Seiko collection. For its newest release, the brand introduces a Vanac with a black dial. It sounds pretty simple — almost too simple. But there is a little more to the story. The black dial of the King Seiko Vanac HKF005 mimics the Tokyo skyline at night. […] Visit The King Seiko Vanac HKF005 Brings The Toyko Skyline To Your Wrist to read the full article.

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches Fratello
Aug 22, 2026

The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches

Today, we have a slightly different story here on Fratello. This is the experience of one New Zealand photographer who has been diligently capturing the mechanical lives of pocket watches at the Tāmaki Paenga Hira Auckland Museum. There’s a big difference between commercial watch photography and museum archiving. Commercial photography is about selling a fantasy […] Visit The Photographer Preserving Centuries Of Pocket Watches to read the full article.

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time Fratello
Aug 21, 2026

Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time

If you don’t like what you see, ask the maker to make something just for you. That’s sort of the principle behind bespoke watches. And all the historical high-end watchmakers have plenty of experience with that because custom-made timepieces are exactly how the watchmaking industry started centuries ago. Creating one-of-a-kind timepieces for demanding customers is […] Visit Bespoke One-Of-A-Kind And Off-Catalog Watches: A Story As Old As Time to read the full article.

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status Hodinkee
Aug 19, 2026

Inside The Manufacture: Why Fam al Hut Is Pursuing Manufacture Status

This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan.  For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...

The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches Monochrome
Rolex Gérald Genta Aug 15, 2026

The ABCs of Time - The History of Metal Bracelets for Wristwatches

With few exceptions, metal bracelets are a 20th-century phenomenon, really surfacing in the 1920s as wristwatches became a cultural and fashion phenomenon. Three names are generally recognised as part of the rise of contemporary bracelets – Rolex, Gérald Genta and Gay Frères – although there’s much more to the story, and the latter arguably plays the […]

Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea Fratello
Rolex Why Taking It Off Aug 8, 2026

Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea

There’s a particular kind of tunnel vision that sets in around steel sports Rolexes. You picture a Submariner, and the mental image arrives fully assembled: black bezel, black dial, and, welded to it, as if it were cast in one piece, an Oyster bracelet. It’s the same with a GMT-Master, Datejust, Sea-Dweller… In fact, it’s […] Visit Dressing Down Your Rolex: Why Taking It Off The Bracelet Can Be A Good Idea to read the full article.

Portrait - The Philosophy and Influences of Bernhard Lederer; Watchmaker, Researcher, Inventor Monochrome
Aug 7, 2026

Portrait - The Philosophy and Influences of Bernhard Lederer; Watchmaker, Researcher, Inventor

For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” Fratello
Seiko SKX Aug 1, 2026

The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle”

There is a very specific kind of watch that changed how I think about this hobby. This watch was not particularly expensive, and it was not Swiss. It did not come in a velvet-lined box or carry a story about a master watchmaker in some atelier within a Swiss valley. It came in a cardboard […] Visit The Caravelle Sea Hunter Vs. The Seiko SKX And SRPE93 “Turtle” to read the full article.

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Jul 30, 2026

Introducing - The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa, A Glassbox Inspired by Japanese Racing Heritage

Three years after the launch of the original 42mm Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa by Bamford, TAG Heuer renews its collaboration with a new limited edition, this time based on the brand’s modern 39mm Carrera Glassbox Chronograph and inspired by Team Ikuzawa’s iconic Roadmaster stopwatches of the 1970s and 1980s. The story of Team Ikuzawa […]

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series Monochrome
Ming Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - New Indie Atelier Pieters Introduces Its Inaugural Watch, the Atelier 1 Founders’ Series

There’s a new indie watch brand on the scene. It seems that we’re telling this story every week. Sometimes, or should I say rather often, these new ventures are coming with pretty fascinating inaugural watches. So is the case of Atelier Pieters, a company founded by couple Maarten and Jessica Pieters. Two watchmakers, one workshop, […]

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Victorin Piguet Split-Second Wristwatch

In our first addendum to our Reference Points video and story on Patek Philippe split-second wristwatches, we looked at Patek Philippe split-second pocket watches and the brand's relationship with its supplier, Victorin Piguet. Switzerland has (and continues to have) the most robust supplier marketplace for everything from complex movements to dials and cases. In the warmer months of the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, it was easy enough to just send someone on a short journey to the Vallée de Joux with a letter requesting a movement or other parts and receive one a short time later. These établisseurs all had their own specialties, but few were as important as Victorin Piguet. I'd argue it was far more unusual for Victorin Piguet not to be involved in a watch (such as their absence from the La Grosse Pièce project for Audemars Piguet) than to see their name on supplier lists. So what was their impact on wristwatches? In our video, we focused solely on serially produced models (and even then, there were a few we couldn't get our hands on), all of which started after Patek shifted its production more in-house. One thing we didn't discuss, however, was the history of the brand's first split-seconds wristwatches, which used a Victorin Piguet ébauche. It's no understatement that these watches are among the most important in Patek Philippe's history and among the most coveted for vintage-focused Patek collectors. One-off, bespoke pieces, these watches don't exactly fit...

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch Just Jul 27, 2026

In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Pocket Watch

Just last week, we published a Reference Points video on the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch. The complication itself—a.k.a. the rattrapante—is incredibly important in the brand's history, forming the backbone for some of its greatest and most coveted watches of all time. However, you can't talk about the history of the split without understanding Patek's pocket watches. It's a story that eventually led to one of the brand's most meaningful relationships with a supplier that helped it grow into a powerhouse, a relationship that would last over a century. Instead of going deep in the weeds on pocket watches in our main Reference Points, we're spinning it off into this secondary article—an addendum of sorts—for those who want a bit more background. The story won't be exhaustive; Patek continued to make split-second pocket watches long after they began making the same complication in wristwatch form, and some such watches deserve (and have had) their own standalone stories. There are also many different versions because Patek, at the time, didn't make things in batches the way they would starting in the 1930s. You could probably write 20,000 words on these pocket watches, but rather than go that deep, here's an overview of Patek's split-seconds pocket watches, with a focus on Victorin Piguet's movements. Understanding Patek's History of Split-Seconds Pocket Watches (1878 to 1970s) and the Importance of Victorin Piguet If you read the first part of our story, y...