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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Introduces Aug 25, 2025

Maurice Lacroix Introduces the AIKONIC, a New Sporty Take on the Popular AIKON Models

Since its inception in 2016, the AIKON line has been Swiss watchmaker Maurice Lacroix’s bestselling collection. Nine years later, the brand is ready to kick it up a notch. The new aptly-named AIKONIC series packs updated mechanics and new materials into an upgraded case design with pops of color, promising innovation in the urban watch space while maintaining the original watch’s flavor. Does it land? Let’s take a look.  The first new aspect of note for the AIKONIC collection is the 43mm case; while it retains the familiar six double-wide “arms” around the bezel, a tactile grip cover is added to the crown. Both the bezel and the crown cover are composed of matt ceramic, which promises scratch-free usage for years to come. And while the case remains steel, it features both brushed and polished surfaces for visual and tactile complexity.  The carbon dial, too, is all-new on the AIKONIC. With carbon fiber strands running north to south in one direction as opposed to interwoven, each dial is slightly distinct from the next. Maurice Lacroix collaborated with a Swiss partner to create the dials, resulting in a construction that is fresh both structurally and aesthetically. The noth-south carbon pattern indeed gives each dial a vertical wave pattern, diversifying the design from both a textural and visual standpoint. Atop the dial sits silver text details, rhodium indices and second hand, and rhodium-facetted hour and minute hands. A sapphire crystal with anti-reflect...

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 Monochrome
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series Aug 24, 2025

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership Fratello
Aug 23, 2025

Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership

Welcome to another installment of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely shared hobby. This time, we’ll take a look at five of the best practices for watch ownership. This is how to treat your watches and the hobby itself to maximize joy and minimize stress. As always, this might all […] Visit Back To Basics: Five Of The Best Practices For Watch Ownership to read the full article.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Aug 22, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin Time Review: A Classic GMT For Life On The Move

In this review, I take a closer look at the new TAG Heuer Carrera Date Twin-Time, a watch that blends heritage with modern functionality. From its striking green dial to its versatile GMT design, this is a timepiece built for both everyday wear and global travel. What We Love The new Twin-Time design pays homage to the 1955 original while feeling distinctly modern. The green sunburst dial is stunning in person, offering both visual depth and excellent legibility for the GMT hand and time display. The H-link bracelet not only enhances the luxury aesthetic but also introduces an innovative, tool-free link removal system. What We Don’t The absence of Super-Luminova on the indices reduces nighttime readability. The bracelet lacks on-the-fly micro-adjustment, limiting quick comfort changes. The redesigned GMT hand, while modern, may not appeal to everyone’s taste. Overall Rating: 8.7 / 10 Value For Money: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Introduced during this year’s Watches & Wonders is the revamped TAG Heuer Carrera three-hander collection. As you would have seen by now, a total of six new Carrera models were released, with the collection taking on the same silhouette as the older Carrera Day-Date with changes that make the timepiece modern and impactful. The New TAG Heuer Carrera Takes A Victory Lap When this collection was released, our very own Mario covered each model, dubbing the collection ‘Victory’ due to TAG Heuer’s upgrad...

Thirty Days with the Christopher Ward C12 Loco SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C12 Loco ‘Micro-brand’ watches Aug 22, 2025

Thirty Days with the Christopher Ward C12 Loco

‘Micro-brand’ watches are rarely about finishing or movement design. The business model employed by this segment of the industry typically involves off-the-shelf movements combined with made-to-order cases and dials; this is how Christopher Ward (CW) got started. But having merged with its movement supplier a decade ago, the brand has become more ambitious, first with the striking Bel Canto and again with the C12 Loco, which reimagines the Valjoux cal. 7750 as a budget-priced mechanical sculpture inside a sporty steel case. Architectural watchmaking is not new, but it is new at the price point targeted by CW, which recently moved into larger premises in Maidenhead about 30 minutes west of London. Having spent a month with the Loco, it’s worth looking at what they did, and how. Initial thoughts I find architectural watchmaking inherently appealing, and appreciate it when watchmakers and designers work in tandem to elevate mechanical components into miniature works of art. It can come across as gimmicky, but when done well it results in an enthralling and educational wearing experience. Given the steep development costs, this type watchmaking has long been the exclusive domain of high end brands like MB&F; and Ulysse Nardin. But CW has been moving in this direction since the launch of the Bel Canto, and the Loco, despite its relative simplicity, is a worthy follow-up to its striking sibling. Sitting within the Twelve collection, CW’s take on the integrated bracelet sp...

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 21, 2025

Paulin Introduces the Mara, their First Dive Watch

Earlier this year at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, I heard some buzz that a member of the Paulin team was wearing the watch they’d be debuting at the end of the summer, and that it was a diver. At the time, it seemed almost illogical. Paulin, in my mind, is the definition of a design oriented brand. I own a Paulin Modul, and love the visual impression of the case and dial, and the ingenuity behind the concept of a case built from the ground up to enable the swapping of movements. Dive watches have been made and remade over and over again, and I tend to have the feeling that there’s nothing new under the sun when it comes to tool oriented watches aimed at the enthusiast. Obviously I should have had a little more confidence in Paulin to subvert expectations and create something with their own unique stamp on it.  The Mara, the brand’s new diver, is finally unveiled to the public today, and it still impresses me just as much at launch as it did when I got a short sneak peek in San Francisco. What we have here is a 300 meter diver in stainless steel measuring 39.7mm in diameter. The case is styled as a more robust version of the Modul, and indeed it does have similar lines, particularly in the way the lugs angle inwards toward the center of the case if you view the watch from the front. Everything is just a little more rounded, though, which feels like a small tribute to traditional dive watch design.  The most impressive design cue here in my opinion however...

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic When Aug 20, 2025

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic

When it comes to watches for men made by Bulgari, it seems the multiple-time record-breaking Octo Finissimo range gets all the attention… Rightfully so, you’ll admit, as this collection is as spectacular visually as it is technically. Bold, ultra-thin, highly distinctive in its approach to design and materials and undeniably Italian, it is the brand’s […]

Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust Fratello
Rolex Datejust Before I start Aug 20, 2025

Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust

Before I start this article, there’s something I must confess: I do not currently have a favorite Rolex Datejust. It’s not because I don’t like the watch or because I’ve tried and failed to find one - quite the opposite. If I can’t quickly name my favorite reference of this octogenarian Rolex model, it’s simply […] Visit Selection By Elimination - How I Found The Perfect Rolex Datejust to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0 Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2025

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0

The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper.  Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...

Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? Aug 15, 2025

Is The New Rolex 1908 Settimo Horological Perfection? (Hands-On)

As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out! What We Love: A perfectly executed contemporary design Extremely well-built and highly wearable Surprising value proposition, even among similar pieces What We Don’t: Clasp feels unnecessarily long Scratch and smudge magnet Movement finishing – Too little, too late? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time. Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stan...

First Look – The New Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with “Plasma” and “Fusion” Dials Monochrome
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Aug 14, 2025

First Look – The New Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with “Plasma” and “Fusion” Dials

Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, introduced in 2014, captured the design groove of 1970s watches with TV-shaped profiles. However, instead of settling for an accomplished vintage-inspired watch, GO went that extra mile and equipped it with its signature Panorama date display and a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement. Unafraid of colour, the Seventies strides in […]

Affordable Excellence: How High End Watch Brands are Creating Accessible Options for the Enthusiast Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Aug 12, 2025

Affordable Excellence: How High End Watch Brands are Creating Accessible Options for the Enthusiast

It is a global phenomenon: some of the most exclusive independent watch brands have in the last five years created more accessible and more affordable sister brands or collections. These are undoubtedly linked to the main brand thanks to similar design features and a similar spirit. Just look at MB&F; and its M.A.D.Editions in Switzerland, Grönefeld and Grøne in the Netherlands, and Hajime Asaoka with Kurono Tokyo. Their normal offering is in the tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and now their sister brands offer watches for a few thousand – and you don’t have to wait for years to get a watch.  Why are they doing this? What effect does it have on the general perception of the main brand? What are the collectors’ reactions to the more accessible offerings? Occasionally, it goes in the other direction. The Finnish brand Leijona’s Heritage 1907 Collection punches above its weight. It shows that a quartz based, mass market brand can make Swiss Made mechanicals together with a legend like Kari Voutilainen. We’ll get back to that. Just as we’ll get to Swatch’s recent collaborations with its fancier siblings within the Swatch Group. This phenomenon is all but new. Just look at Rolex and Tudor, the latter registered in 1926. “It was exactly the same as what we see today. Rolex founder (Hans) Wilsdorf wanted to offer high-quality watches at more affordable prices,” said watch expert Gianfranco Ritschel. Another example, half a century removed, is Cartie...

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection Worn & Wound
Unimatic Aug 12, 2025

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection

While minimalism may be as trendy as ever these days (one look at any modern car interior will tell you that) a lot of brands miss the mark when it comes to balancing that aesthetic with function, or the lack thereof. Not so with Unimatic’s all-new Prodiver line, which promises both a streamlined design language and robust mechanical functionality. But do the watches actually pull it off? Let’s take a deeper dive and find out. Perhaps the biggest factor in Unimatic’s favor here is the Italian brand’s penchant for design cohesiveness across their lineup. Even before taking the new Prodiver into consideration, Unimatic watches share aesthetic hallmarks, namely chunky, round indexes, sans serif typefaces, and symmetrical dial balance. Even models that deviate from this norm, like the UT1 and UT4, which feature hour numerals instead, carry a uniformly round and hardy profile, which gives each Unimatic watch friendly-yet-tough dimensions. This is all personal conjecture, of course, but rarely does a brand manage to maintain consistency in design across their entire lineup quite as well as Unimatic does.  Back to the Prodiver, though; like most other watches by the brand, it also bears the signature round indexes, though it adds some legitimate dive watch pedigree, too. Each of the three new Modello Uno models sports a democratically-sized case, measuring at 40mm in diameter and 49mm lug to lug. The case thickness is a healthy 14.4mm with the domed sapphire crystal, and...

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch WatchAdvice
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Aug 8, 2025

Reviewing The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo: A Bold & Beautiful Watch

After visiting the Bvlgari High Horology Manufacture in Switzerland this year, it was about time we reviewed one of their iconic pieces, so I’ve chosen the Octo Finissimo to wear for the week. What We Love The unique design The feel on the wrist A piece you won’t see at watch get-togethers very often, if at all! What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet No luminescence on the dial The flatness may not suit or wrist types and shapes Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 This year is probably one of the first times that I have really delved into the world of Bvlgari. Yes, I’ve tried on their watches and seen all the new releases, but I’ve not had the chance to dive into the brand – until this year. Luckily, we had the chance to visit the High Watchmaking Manufacture in Le Sentier back in April to see just one of the manufacturing arms of Bvlgari (they have three across Switzerland where different components are made), in this instance, as the name suggests, the Bvlgari Haute Horlogerie is where the most complicated watches are made, such as their ultra thin movements, minute repeaters, tourbillons, or in Bvlgari’s instance, all of these in one in some cases. A few images from our visit back in April, from the BVL 138 Calibre found in the Octo Finissimo (first two images), a tourbillon cage in the making, and two out of Bvlgari’s three highly skilled watchmakers who work on the high-...

Introducing – Elegance Meets Diving Credentials with the New Mido Ocean Star 200C Gold PVD Monochrome
Mido Aug 7, 2025

Introducing – Elegance Meets Diving Credentials with the New Mido Ocean Star 200C Gold PVD

Mido has quietly established a strong reputation with its Ocean Star 200C collection, dive-ready timepieces known for their solid construction, stylish design, and remarkable value. Earlier variants, like the blue-dial 200C in steel with a ceramic bezel and the lightweight titanium edition, have earned well-deserved praise from enthusiasts for their design and execution. A carbon […]

Hands-On With The Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz 34mm Fratello
Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz Aug 6, 2025

Hands-On With The Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz 34mm

Last month, we introduced the new Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz in 39mm. The watch was met with near-resounding praise for its design, approachable pricing, and ease of use. For those of us with smaller wrists, though, the size was on the edge of wearability. That’s where the new 34mm version comes into play. My […] Visit Hands-On With The Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz 34mm to read the full article.

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – Aug 6, 2025

Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Review – The Best Colourway Yet?

The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Rose Gold is a timepiece that blends vintage-inspired design with modern execution and just the right amount of flair. From the case finishing to the tri-compax sector dial, this watch doesn’t just look good, it feels special on the wrist! What We Love The rose gold PVD finish truly enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal with the various finishes on the case. Sector dial layout with tri-compax subdials that balance complexity with elegance. Vintage-inspired design reimagined with modern-day elegance. What We Don’t The leather strap feels limiting for daily wear due to long-term durability concerns. No clasp option offered. Constant use of the pin buckle can wear out the strap quicker. The case may look thick from the side, which might put off some wearers despite wearing slimmer in person Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It was only two short years ago that Raymond Weil unveiled their Millésimecollection. Raymond Weil’s creative elegance, innovative technology, and Swiss-made excellence were all rolled into one collection. The brand paid homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology, which can easily be seen through the vintage-inspired case and dial design. The Millésime collection pays tribute to the golden age of watchmaking from the 1930s to 1960s. The word Millésime, meaning “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, couldn’t be more fit...

Hands-On With The Stylish Unimatic Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver Fratello
Unimatic Aug 6, 2025

Hands-On With The Stylish Unimatic Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver

If you are a longtime reader of Fratello, you know I am a fan of Unimatic. I have often sung the brand songs of praise for developing one of the watch industry’s most recognizable and versatile visual design languages. The minimalist approach to watch design works miracles almost every time for the brand. As Unimatic […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish Unimatic Modello Uno Heritage GMT Diver to read the full article.

First Look – The Orient Bambino 75th Anniversary Classic and Day-Night Come with Plenty of Vintage Soul and Modern Charm Monochrome
Orient Aug 4, 2025

First Look – The Orient Bambino 75th Anniversary Classic and Day-Night Come with Plenty of Vintage Soul and Modern Charm

For many watch enthusiasts, the Orient Bambino is a rite of passage, often a first mechanical watch that proves you don’t have to break the bank to enjoy heritage design and honest, in-house watchmaking. To mark its 75th anniversary, Orient has refreshed its popular Bambino lineup with new dial colours and two limited editions that […]

Introducing – Playing with Distortion… Meet the new Anoma A1 Optical Monochrome
Aug 4, 2025

Introducing – Playing with Distortion… Meet the new Anoma A1 Optical

Anoma, the indie microbrand founded in London by Matteo Violet-Vianello, derives its name from “anomaly”, indicating its less-than-conventional approach to design. Taking design cues from art, architecture and nature, the brand is making a name for itself with its shaped watch case. The brand’s first watch, the sculptural A1 with a rounded triangular case inspired […]