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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

An Equation for Watch Buying Satisfaction with the Bulova Hack Worn & Wound
Bulova Hack Jan 24, 2024

An Equation for Watch Buying Satisfaction with the Bulova Hack

In the early days of Facebook, “Facebook official” was a big deal. A status update from “in a relationship” to “single” sent shockwaves through social circles, and an update to “it’s complicated” was always sure to add some confusion and perhaps a few laughs. If such a social media page existed for watches (this is a terrible idea, please don’t do it), my status with the Bulova Hack would be: It’s complicated. I purchased my first Hack back in 2020 based on a subjective infatuation with its aesthetics. Afterall, the decision to purchase a watch is often triggered by an emotional response, and boy did the Hack have me smitten with its clean and legible classic military design. While I’m far from an expert on military watches, in the same way I can geek out over a racing chronograph without being a car guy, I appreciated that the modern Hack stayed relatively true to the Bulova A-11, credited as the watch that won the war. But technology has changed in the decades since the original Bulova Hack was issued to the US Military in World War II. As sapphire crystals and 100 meters of water resistance have become ubiquitous staples of field watches, the Hack remains stuck in the past with a mineral crystal and a mere 30 meters of water resistance. And though the modern Hack features a hackable movement just like the original ones that allowed for synchronizing time with the simple pull of a crown, the chunky Miyota 82S0 that allows for this feature, with an...

The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers Fratello
Certina Watch Issued Jan 24, 2024

The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers

Recently, Certina provided me the opportunity to get my hands on a revived classic, the DS Super PH1000M. I love Certina, and I believe it’s a brand that does not get the kudos it deserves. This article is about the watch from which this new release took its design cues, and it has an incredible […] Visit The Certina Watch Issued To The Elite Royal Australian Navy Clearance Divers to read the full article.

Introducing – Technical Fireworks and Artistic Crafts, the Breguet Classique 5345 and 7145 Year of the Dragon Monochrome
Breguet Classique 5345 Jan 24, 2024

Introducing – Technical Fireworks and Artistic Crafts, the Breguet Classique 5345 and 7145 Year of the Dragon

Just when we thought the onslaught of dragon-themed watches was abating comes a surprising pair of watches from Breguet.  Ahead of the Lunar New Year 2024, Breguet unleashes two models bearing dragons who, according to the Chinese Zodiac, will rule the roost until 2025. Deploying its big guns, the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon situates the […]

Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger Fratello
Otsuka Lotec Jan 24, 2024

Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger

As a keen observer of the independent side of Japanese watchmaking, I felt honored when Precision Watch Co. reached out on behalf of Jiro Katayama. Katayama-san is a small-scale watchmaker I have been following for a few years. What I find fascinating is his self-taught watchmaking, a quality he shares with Hajime Asaoka that beggars […] Visit Hands-On With The Otsuka Lotec No.7.5 - A Jump-Hour Watch With Monochromatic Swagger to read the full article.

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Jan 24, 2024

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade

In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. introduced its Streamliner series, offering its distinctive interpretation of the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. If you’ve followed the brand, you’re likely acquainted with the Streamliner’s diverse lineup, including the chronograph, perpetual calendar, time-only, small seconds and tourbillon models. Notably, the red gold Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack from […]

Introducing – The Seductive Runway Beauty of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon x Tamara Ralph Monochrome
Jan 24, 2024

Introducing – The Seductive Runway Beauty of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon x Tamara Ralph

Collaborations between watch brands and designers, artists, musicians, trendsetters, artisans, comic characters, action heroes, etc., are the order of the day. You’d be hard-pressed to think of a brand that has not succumbed to some outside input to generate a buzz among younger collectors or even wizened collectors looking for something fresh. Since the unveiling […]

A Closer Look At The 2024 Tudor Price Increases - Will They Have An Effect On The Brand’s Success? Fratello
Tudor Price Increases - Will Jan 24, 2024

A Closer Look At The 2024 Tudor Price Increases - Will They Have An Effect On The Brand’s Success?

For most of us, having a budget to work with is a reality in this passion for watches. As a result, increasing prices are not without personal side effects. Until recently, the go-to brand under €4K was Tudor. With prices going up, however, that reality has shifted. It’s safe to say that it could be […] Visit A Closer Look At The 2024 Tudor Price Increases - Will They Have An Effect On The Brand’s Success? to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With HZ Watches – The Latest Australian Microbrand! WatchAdvice
Seiko s he got into Jan 24, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With HZ Watches – The Latest Australian Microbrand!

The latest microbrand from Australia is about to launch, and we’ve been wearing their launch model, the HZ.01 for the last week getting a feel for it and the brand! What We Love The vintage-inspired lookThe ability to dress up or downThe circular graining on the dial and green outer track that pops What We Don’t Slightly on the smaller sizeDate window a little too smallLack of lume on the numerals Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 It’s not every day that you get to go hands on with a watch prior to its launch, well, not for an extended period of time and even rarer to wear it for a week or so and have fun with it to review. And when this is the launch model for a brand-new microbrand from Australia, then it is a privilege to test it out, and not only give feedback back to the brand, but let the general watch-buying public know about it and help support a fellow enthusiast-turned-watch maker with their new endeavour. A Bit Of Background HZ Watches is the brainchild of Matthew Zillman, a Melbourne local who, like many of us, developed a love for watches at an early age. Having had some early model Seiko’s, he got into watch modding and building after doing a movement swap on a Seiko 5 with the 7s26 movement. And in his words: “Before I had time to blink, I was modding and creating different custom SKX mods for myself and a few friends at university, which soon blossomed into Seiko Mods Australia” One ...

The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri s New “Editions” Series Jan 23, 2024

The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration

As Griffin mentioned in his recent write up of the new Studio Underd0g release, our friends at Time+Tide are celebrating their tenth anniversary this year. A major part of the festivities for the Australian watch website centers around the opening of their Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne. The space is envisioned as a place to go hands-on with new watches from both independent and classic brands, all curated by the Time+Tide team. It’ll also be the home of new product launches and other watch community events, and there are plans to expand to London later this year. It’s an exciting concept, and serves as a starting point for an entirely new type of release from one of our favorite independents, Furlan Marri. The debut in their new Furlan Marri Editions line is tied exclusively to Time+Tide’s retail outlet, but in a twist, they’ll also be giving the general public a shot at the new watch as well.  Furlan Mari Editions releases are conceived as special boutique editions geared toward collectors and enthusiasts. Like other boutique editions, they’ll be available exclusively at a dedicated point of sale. In this case, the Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy will be sold exclusively at the Time+Tide retail location in Melbourne, and later London. But in addition to being sold in these brick and mortar environments, Furlan Marri has elected to also make these releases available to the general public once a year, for a limited time. This way, dedicated fans can ...

Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jan 23, 2024

Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph: The Ultimate Guide

When we think about watches and space travel, Omega’s Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” - the first watch qualified for missions by NASA and the first worn on the moon - is the timepiece that inevitably comes to mind. New York-based Bulova Watch Company, however, also played a noteworthy role during the height of the U.S.A.’s Space Race with the Soviet Union in the 1950s and ‘60s. The company, at the time headed by American war hero General Omar Bradley, established a partnership with NASA in which it provided precision instruments and timekeeping devices equipped with Bulova’s signature Accutron tuning-fork technology for 46 space missions.  Bulova even developed a watch built specifically for space travel, the electronic-powered Accutron Astronaut, which was worn in space for the first time in 1963, inside the Mercury Atlas-9 capsule that orbited the Earth. While the Omega Speedmaster established itself as the watch issued to astronauts of the Apollo program, which culminated in the July 1969 moon landing, Accutron Astronaut watches had become standard issue for the pilots of the U.S. Air Force’s X-15 experimental rocket-powered aircraft program and eventually for CIA pilots in their Lockheed A-12 supersonic jets. A Bulova Accutron clock remains in the moon's Sea of Tranquility to this day, placed there by Apollo 11 astronaut (and famous Omega wearer) Buzz Aldrin in 1969.  In 1971, Bulova personally gifted a one-of-a-kind, customized chronograph wa...

The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko dealers around Jan 23, 2024

The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection

This interview has been edited for length and clarity. When DC Vintage Watch’s Nick Ferrell announced he was launching a watch line, I took notice. Ferrell has made a name as one of the foremost Seiko dealers around, and the first pics he released of the Sycamore line were gorgeous-the Wolf and the Hunter, a matte black GMT and a matte black dress watch, respectively, both with Hindu-Arabic numeral dials that seemed to anticipate the Hindu-Arabic dial craze the watch world has entered. Ferrell’s watch cred and the success of his design are reason enough to be interested in the Sycamore line, but there’s something more about it that fascinated me. With the Wolf and the Hunter, Ferrell has gotten to live the watch enthusiast’s dream: he had an idea for a watch and he actually got to make it. “Some of it was not seeing out there what I wanted myself,” Ferrell recalled in an interview. “And another thing was, there’s that black PVD [Seiko] 6139, it’s kind of like an oval, it’s the 6139-8010 and I took the dial off and I put the 6139 military dial with the Arabic numbers on it. Playing around with this, and I was like, ‘I really like this.’” A Seiko 6139-8010 which served as inspiration for the Sycamore Collection That was about nine months ago-a fitting length of time between the conception of an idea and its birth. Since then, Ferrell has taken that inspiration and produced watches that, while they contain some of the DNA of that initial Seiko mo...

BOLDR Brings Back the Slide Rule Bezel with the new Expedition Enigmath Worn & Wound
Boldr Brings Back Jan 23, 2024

BOLDR Brings Back the Slide Rule Bezel with the new Expedition Enigmath

While math was never my strong suit in school, I have to say, I’m very excited for Singapore-based BOLDR’s Expedition Enigmath. Designed to harken back to the pre-digital age, the Enigmath is a perfect example of design-led charm with a tactile appeal. The main feature of this watch is its slide rule bezel, which operates as a circular analog calculator. In the early 20th Century, this ingenious tool was used to perform various mathematical calculations and was adapted for tool watches often associated with aviation in the 1950s. By rotating the bezel, users can multiply, divide, and perform other operations without the need for your calculator app. This hands-on approach to calculation not only pays homage to historical methods but also offers a unique and practical feature for those who appreciate the tangible connection to their tools. Crafted with precision and designed for the adventurous spirit, the Expedition Enigmath boasts a robust build with 200 meters of water resistance. The 41mm stainless steel case features both sandblasted and polished finishing in a style that will be familiar to fans of BOLDR’s previous watches. These watches have old-fashioned tool watch vibes with just a small nod to contemporary design tropes in the use of color on the dial and some subtle bits of case work. The Enigmath houses a Japan-made Miyota 9039 automatic movement, offering self-winding capabilities, hacking seconds, and an impressive 42-hour power reserve. The matte-textur...

The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - Jan 23, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years

Two decades ago, Omega reintroduced the racing dial to the Speedmaster Professional. It was only for the Japanese market, and only 2,004 pieces were produced. As you might know, there are more of them around, but we’ll get to that later. Speedmaster Japan Racing 3570.40 First, let’s go back 20 years. At that time, Omega […] Visit The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years to read the full article.

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue PVD (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue Jan 23, 2024

First Look – The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic 39mm Blue PVD (Incl. Video)

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon is a regular candidate in our buying guides dedicated to accessibly priced sports watches. With its 1970s-shaped sports watch vibe, integrated bracelet, easy strap exchange system, solid build, automatic movement and competitive price, the Aikon ticks the boxes associated with this popular segment. The latest model to join the family is […]

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price Fratello
IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks Jan 23, 2024

Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price

Today, we’ll take a look at a vintage IWC 309, a watch that attracted me due to its likeness to another watch. This classic is no copycat, though, as it brings enough unique styling flourishes to the party. We also have the chance to discuss one of the more heralded movements in history. At the […] Visit Vintage Watches: The IWC 309 Brings Calatrava Looks At A Fraction Of The Price to read the full article.

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake Monochrome
Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jan 23, 2024

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

Frederique Constant, renowned, among other things, for its remarkable price-to-quality ratio, surprised the watch community with its original Slimline Perpetual Calendar model 2016. This competitively priced (under EUR 10,000) watch, equipped with the brand’s FC-775 perpetual calendar calibre, quickly gained recognition. In 2022, Frederique Constant presented an unexpected update to this model through a collaboration […]

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Jan 23, 2024

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon

The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...

Franck Muller Adds Manga Dragons to the Cintrée Curvex SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Instead it’s Jan 23, 2024

Franck Muller Adds Manga Dragons to the Cintrée Curvex

Now best known for its extravagant and occasionally provocative timepieces, Franck Muller tapped on a Japanese artist who specialises in manga-style paintings for the Cintrée Curvex Ryoko Kaneta Dragon Limited Edition. This collaboration, which will only be available at the brand’s stores in Asia, transforms the mythical beast into a playful character with doll-like features typical of Ryoko Kaneta’s work, with 12 dragons on a turquoise dial bearing the brand’s signature oversized Arabic numerals.  Initial thoughts Unlike most dragon-themed watches that take themselves seriously, the Cintrée Curvex dragon edition leaves behind the traditional, regal portrayal of the creature as seen in Parmigiani’s automaton clock or the recent Breguet Classique. Instead it’s a fun timepiece that blends the trademark Franck Muller style with contemporary Asian art and a trendy colour palette. A look through Ms Kaneta’s portfolio shows her aesthetic has been successfully ported over onto the watch, with the dragon characters sharing the manga-doll appearance of her characters. Unlike most character-theme collaborations that feature bold figures at the dial’s centre, the manga dragons are integrated into the numerals, evoking the traditional concept of dragons navigating through the clouds. That said, I would have liked Ms Kaneta to add her touch to the branding on the dial for a more complete visual makeover. With a price of around US$13,400, this limited edition is somewha...