Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Mini DolceVita Goes Gold
It's the year of the (gold) Mini! The Longines Mini DolceVita gets a metal makeover.
Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Geared Up: Packing for the Unexpected
Life has an uncanny way of throwing a curveball at you when you least expect it. As I sat down to eat dinner and plan out some upcoming travel, I got the phone call that no one ever wants to get: “Your parent is in the hospital.” Being a younger guy, I still assume that my parents are somewhere between human and superhuman, always available to answer questions, and impart wisdom. Like many, I’ve viewed my parents as invincible for much of my life. As the phone call went on, two things immediately popped into my mind: I needed to book a flight home as soon as possible, and I needed to pack a bag. The concept of having an “emergency bag” isn’t new to me – being prepared was drilled into my head while I was in Boy Scouts, and the occasional threat of tornadoes in Kentucky meant I always had something ready, but between moving to NYC a year ago and just generally being busy, I hadn’t taken the time to repack such a bag, which bit me when I got the call about my father. I’m happy to report that several weeks out from that phone call he’s doing well and recovering. While I hope that you don’t get the same call anytime soon, it was a stark reminder that things are unpredictable and you need to be willing and able to react quickly. Now, I need to preface the rest of this article and say that this isn’t a definitive guide to what you should have in your bag, but rather an overview of the items that I had (and will have) in my bag as I work to be more prepa...
Time+Tide
How did tantalum become the next big material in watchmaking? The definitive guide
Known for its grey-blue hue, tantalum has a cult following in watchmaking, but how much do you know about this tough metal? The post How did tantalum become the next big material in watchmaking? The definitive guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
#TBT Understanding The Different Enicar Sherpa Graph Executions
I have had the idea for this article at least as long as I’ve known Nico Henke, a German-based collector who we can rightly call an expert on all things related to Enicar chronographs. It’s time to roll up our sleeves and, with Nico’s help, explore the phenomenal line of Enicar Sherpa Graph watches. Maybe […] Visit #TBT Understanding The Different Enicar Sherpa Graph Executions to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Flashy Two-Tone Ebel 1911 Globe
The Ebel 1911 Globe you see here is one of the most divisive watches we’ve had in the office lately. Only Robert-Jan and I like this glorious piece of late-1980s design brilliance, so it won’t surprise you that I volunteered to review the watch. Besides the fact that I like the flashy presence, it awakens […] Visit Hands-On With The Flashy Two-Tone Ebel 1911 Globe to read the full article.
Video
Is Schwarz Etienne Watchmaking's Hidden Gem? No More, As We Uncover Two Of Of The Brand's Finest
Fratello
Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
Seven years ago, Breguet introduced the flagship model of its Marine collection, the Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887. Two versions debuted in 2017 - one in 18K rose gold with a silver dial and the other in platinum with a blue dial. In 2020, another rose gold version joined the Marine collection, this time, with a […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The new Black/Platinum Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
First presented in 2017, the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 came as a surprise, initiating an unprecedented design for the collection. This highly complex Breguet watch, first available in a platinum case with a blue dial, actually teased the complete revamp of the collection that occurred a year later. Three years later for the 220th […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe
The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe celebrates one of the most taxing sailing races. It’s also the most sustainable watch yet from the Swiss brand. Let’s take a closer look at this sporty and colorful diver. Ulysse Nardin is no stranger to supporting lengthy, challenging races. The Gumball 3000 comes to mind in […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe sources sustainable materials local to a legendary sailing race
Commemorating the 10th edition of a legendary race and its sustainability missions.The post The new Ulysse Nardin Diver Net Vendée Globe sources sustainable materials local to a legendary sailing race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The New and Extraterrestrial Louis Moinet Starman
Every timepiece crafted by Jean-Marie Schaller and his watchmaking team at Louis Moinet promises one sure thing – it will captivate, invite a closer look, and often spark curiosity about the stories behind it. The latest creation, the Starman, exemplifies this spirit; it is a luxurious, quintessentially Louis Moinet piece made with fragments from two […]
Video
4 new Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon & Grey Side of the Moon
Fratello
Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date
Let’s start with a quote from the introduction article I wrote on the Nomos Tangente 2date. Here goes: “… if you wear this new Tangente on a first date, the chances you will land a second date are practically zero if the other person is into watches and a frequent contributor to the ‘date or […] Visit Going On A Second Date With The Nomos Tangente 2date to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Found: Three Of The Best Tourbillon Wristwatches Ever Made, For Sale This Week
And they're all from Lange – and the very same model.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour
The jump hour is a nearly criminally underrepresented type of watch. These semi-digital mechanical devices simplify time telling through more complex movements, a perfect example of watchmaking’s inherent and lovable absurdity. Their unique displays create different layout challenges, leading to unique and fantastic designs, from the sci-fi Space One to the extravagant A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. As such, a new jump hour is always cause for celebration and temptation. However, the challenge for brands that want to enter the jumping game is a lack of readily available movements and modules. So, what’s a brand to do? For Fears, this is where the power of collaboration comes into play. By teaming up with the industrious Christopher Ward, who developed their in-house jump hour module, the JJ001, back in 2010-11, Fears could access an already proven but exclusive solution. In 2023, they debuted their jump hour as the highly limited Alliance 1 for members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, and in 2024, their follow-up mainline version, the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, which we reported on here. I’m all for watches that provide different and uncommon experiences, whether it be the smooth glide and accuracy of a Spring Drive, the hourly dinging of the Bel Canto, the central minute counter of a Lemania 5100, or the decentralized displays of a regulator. Jump hours stand out even among that crowd by fundamentally changing how time is read. Though most akin t...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Impressions about the new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (Side by Side with the Old FOiS)
The new Omega Speedmaster FOiS (for First Omega in Space) is the perfect example of a watch that’s not particularly spectacular, groundbreaking or innovative. But more often than not, a great watch doesn’t need to be a game-changer. The 2024 Speedmaster FOiS comes in continuity to a concept introduced in 2012, a vintage-inspired watch celebrating […]
Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback
It was 1979, and I had accompanied my parents to a dinner party. I was six years old, and my parents’ friends had no children. My parents married later in life and came from a generation where children were meant to be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, I am one of those who likes to be seen and heard. However, I was instructed to be on my best behavior, so they set me in front of the television. Noticing that I was bored, our host handed me his wristwatch and said, “Check this out.” He pressed a button on the side of the case, and the display lit up in bright red, showing the time. I had never seen anything like it before. My father’s manual-wind Caravelle watch had a large white dial with Roman numerals and looked like an antique compared to this modern watch. I was captivated, and he let me wear it and play with it all evening. Undoubtedly, that watch made a lasting impression on me. The 1970s were an exhilarating period in design and technology, marked by rapid changes. The quartz crisis impacted the watch industry, prompting companies to innovate. This development created numerous new timepieces, including the noteworthy Hamilton Pulsar Cushion. Introduced in 1974, it boasted a vibrant red LED display that would only activate when you pressed the button on its side. Fifty years later, Hamilton is releasing an updated version called the PSR 74, and they have chosen to maintain its iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case. This design was considered futuristic in the 197...
Video
The G-Shock MR-G Collection Combines Modern Timepieces With Traditional Japanese Craftsmanship
Monochrome
First Look – A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video)
Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, we had the opportunity to visit Lederer. The brand focuses on highly technical escapements, which are made by Bernhard Lederer. The new Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer stood out among the various timepieces we saw due to its impressive movement and testing schedule. My colleague Dave Sergeant and I paled […] Visit Hands-On With The Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Full-Gold AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
We’ve talked about the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin on multiple occasions already, and for obvious reasons. When first presented as a prototype watch named RD#2, it was the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar wristwatch, with an impressive 6.2mm thickness. Despite Bulgari re-gaining the title a year later, this Audemars Piguet remains truly impressive and is […]
Fratello
Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition
The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition SRPL35 (or SBSA281) is a limited edition of 2,000 watches. The fundamentals of this fusion watch can be traced back to the famous SKX series, and the details are done in shades of indigo. There are lots of jeans-like hues on the bezel, dial, and strap. And in […] Visit Trying On Some New “Denim” - Hands-On With The Seiko 5 Sports Denham Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition
Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]
Video
The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Line Gets Two New Colorways
SJX Watches
Hands On: The First-Ever Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC
One of the most valuable watches to go on the block this auction season is the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” 16599SAAEC. Part of Phillips’ Reloaded auction taking place on November 8, 2024, the Zenith-powered Daytona is the original “Rainbow”, having been produced in 1994, some 18 years before the serially-produced Daytona “Rainbow” was introduced. Like all automatic Daytona models prior to 2000, this Daytona “Rainbow” is powered by the cal. 4030, which is a Zenith El Primero modified by Rolex. But this Daytona is unique in having a singular model reference of 16599 followed by the suffix “SAAEC”, short for saphir arc-en-ciel, French for “sapphire rainbow”. A rainbow history Though the Daytona “Rainbow” is perhaps the most famous gem-set Rolex model today, it took a while to catch on when it was introduced. It debuted as a regular production model in 2012 with the Daytona ref. 116598RBOW in yellow gold and ref. 116599RBOW in white gold. The Daytona ref. 116599RBOW in white gold At launch the Daytona “Rainbow” was not the object of frenzied desire as it is now, but by 2018 it was sought after. And that year Rolex debuted the Daytona ref. 116595RBOW in Everose gold that boasted the upgrade of baguette-cut rainbow indices. The facelift was also applied to the yellow and white gold versions, both of which now sport baguette-cut rainbow indices as well. As with the first generation model, variants with gem-set dials and bracelets also exist. The Day...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon
We live in a very good time for independent watchmaking. I know that may sound like an oddly specific metric by which to judge the world, but it’s true. There was a time, not so long ago, when an enthusiast watch collector looking for a highly complicated watch would have struggled to find what they were looking for outside the worlds of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. Perhaps the occasional Blancpain or Breguet might make a splash, but in the wake of the quartz crisis, the contracted watch industry focused on what it did best for the sake of its own survival, and we should all be grateful for that. Thankfully, in 2024, those days are gone, or at least mitigated. Since the mid-‘90s, the rise of independents has been one of the watch industry’s key narrative arcs, and, now, collectors looking to patronize the sort of small, unique, highly technical brands lost to them in the ‘70s and ‘80s are truly spoiled for choice. It is out of this transition that Laurent Ferrier has emerged not only as one of the watch world’s preeminent names but as a perfect encapsulation of how the industry has evolved over the last few decades. And there is no better watch to summarize that point than Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Moon, introduced at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. But before getting to that watch, it’s worth spending a little bit of time thinking about Laurent Ferrier (the person, not the brand). Now, I’m not going to give you a complete accounting of t...
Teddy Baldassarre
What Are The Least Expensive IWC Watches?
IWC Schaffhausen is the quintessential example of a watchmaker that set out to become famous for one thing but ended up being famous for something else. Founded in 1868 by American expat Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company devoted itself chiefly to luxuriously decorated pocket watches in its early years but when the military needs of a European continent at war came calling in the 1940s, Jones’ firm shifted its production to focus on decidedly no-frills, robust, utilitarian wristwatches for use in the cockpits of planes. Fast forwarding to today, most watch enthusiasts still regard IWC first and foremost as a leader in the pilot’s watch genre. But that wasn’t always the case, and in fact, IWC’s 21st-Century collection is about as diverse as that of any watch brand out there. For a newbie to the brand, however, that diversity — and even the diversity within the vastly expanded Pilot’s collection itself — can prove daunting, especially when attempting to choose which IWC watches offer the price-to-value ratio that would motivate one to pull the trigger on a purchase. In this latest article in our recently inaugurated Price of Admission series, I will attempt to help you make sense of IWC’s modern collection from an entry-level pricing standpoint, homing in on the best models to consider as one’s “first” IWC watch. PILOT’S WATCHES: IWC Pilot's Watch Automatic 36 ($4,350) It’s appropriate to start our exploration with the Pilot...
Deployant
Review: the new SEVENFRIDAY ME1/02
Released earlier last month, we took the new SEVENFRIDAY ME1/02 out for a couple of weeks and give you this comprehensive review.
Quill & Pad
Grone Oldenzaal: a New More Affordable Brand by Bart and Tim Gronefeld Launches with the Manueel One ‘Sjef’s One’
Tim and Bart Gronefeld have quietly launch a new brand of more affordable watches than those in their Gronefeld collection. The new brand is called Grone Oldenzaal and the launch model is called the Manueel One ‘Sjef’s One’.
Video