Shaping the Tourbillon: The Unsigned Carriages
Behind many historical tourbillons were the carriage makers: specialist watchmakers who designed and built the rotating cages containing the balance and escapement. Their work helped establish the reputations of the brands that sold these watches, yet their own names rarely appeared on the finished movements. This five-part series explores their craft and the records they left behind, tracing the contributions of Ernest Guinand, Auguste Grether, Albert Pellaton-Favre and his son James C. Pellaton. This opening instalment examines how their work entered the watchmaking trade and why identifying the makers with precision remains so difficult. The unsigned escapements On September 14, 1914, the Bern daily Der Bund reported the death of Albert Pellaton of Le Locle, a master of precision watchmaking, and sent its readers to the watch section of the Swiss national exhibition, then open in the city. Eight tourbillons were on show, on the stands of Paul Ditisheim, Zenith and Girard-Perregaux, among others. All of them, the paper wrote, came from Pellaton’s hands, except an enlarged model on the Zenith stand, made by one of his nine sons. The newspaper knew who had made the tourbillons, yet the watches in the cases carried only the names of the firms that exhibited them. A few firms did name their maker. When Paul Ditisheim’s chronometer No. 16’639 scored 94.9 points at Kew in 1903, the Revue internationale de l’horlogerie credited Albert Pellaton for the escapement, togeth...