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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - May 17, 2025

Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch

Possibly one of the most unexpected novelties released during this year’s Watches and Wonders was a double-retrograde calendar watch with a 40mm pink gold case. Now, a timepiece of that size, in that material, and with that complication - I mean no disrespect to double-retrograde indications - doesn’t sound too surprising when you think of […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprising Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar - Celebrating The Brand’s 30th Anniversary With A 40mm Watch to read the full article.

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces May 14, 2025

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department

As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette […] Visit Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department to read the full article.

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface May 14, 2025

Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface

What happens when you take the 2755 QP movement out of the 2017 Traditionnelle Calibre 2755 (ref. 80172/000R-B406), update the design so it caters to an audience with a more contemporary taste, and put it in the sportiest of watch designs available? You get the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface. This limited-production watch is […] Visit Introducing: The Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Grand Complication Openface to read the full article.

Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT Worn & Wound
May 13, 2025

Hands-On: the echo/neutra Chrono GMT

Sometimes, no matter how many hours we spend scrolling on Instagram and monitoring various watch-focused group chats, things slip through the cracks. Watches that check all the right boxes to rise above the noise of a crowded market go unnoticed and become sleeper hits instead of hits, and creativity that deserves widespread celebration instead receives a splattering of quiet applause. For collectors that enjoy witnessing brands evolve and develop distinct design DNA in real time, it can be a bummer to discover your radar missed something great. But on the bright side, this scenario allows for instant gratification and the opportunity to speed run a brand’s evolution to the present day. This was my experience when Italian microbrand echo/neutra released the Rivanera at the end of last year. Like many of you, I was pleasantly caught off guard by the rugged take on the classic rectangular dress watch, but didn’t recognize the name divided by a distinct slash on the dial. This sent me digging through surprisingly sparse reviews and forum threads where I discovered that the Rivanera was far from beginner’s luck, and was actually the result of a year’s long evolution that began in the way many do, with a safe and somewhat generic field watch on Kickstarter. Watching aging YouTube videos, this actual first release called the Averau (which later included a very cool moon phase) looks like exactly the type of watch I would’ve chased in 2019 when specs and MSRP were my pr...

The New Tissot PRC 100 Is a Solar Sensation (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer May 10, 2025

The New Tissot PRC 100 Is a Solar Sensation (Hands-On)

While the PRC 100 Solar proved tough enough for Central Australia, would it be able to withstand the daily activities of an upper-middle class watch nerd? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, classic design Reliable and robust Wears slim and close to the wrist What We Don’t: The visible solar cells might put some people off Blank caseback — a blessing and a curse Can they add a microadjustment? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a reboot — whether it’s Michael Mann’s Heat, Robert Eggers’ Nosferatu, or Todd Howard’s Oblivion, there’s something magnetic about a classic getting the modern treatment. The watch world is no different. Heritage designs have seen a renaissance, with luxury brands like Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Rolex bringing back beloved models. Timepieces like the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, Carrera Glassbox, and Land-Dweller either faithfully revive past icons or remix archival elements into something fresh. Neo-vintage revivals — more recent classics brought back into production — are also gaining traction. While Omega’s Constellation and Piaget’s Polo ’79 represent the high end, this trend has seeped into the more accessible tier of watchmaking. Japanese powerhouses Seiko and Citizen have often led the charge, but one European brand stands tall among them: Tissot. Part of the Swatch Group, Tissot made waves in 2021 with the PRX, a heritage-inspired hit th...

A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold Fratello
Daniel Roth May 9, 2025

A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold

I like simple things, but they are often the hardest to design, whether that’s a pen, camera, bag, knife, phone, or watch. In my opinion, a dress watch should be simple. Complications are often just distractions. While they are admirable ones, especially when perfectly executed by a skilled watchmaker, they have no place in a […] Visit A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat In Rose Gold to read the full article.

Farer Introduces the Lissom, a New, Colorful Take on the Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces May 8, 2025

Farer Introduces the Lissom, a New, Colorful Take on the Dress Watch

In case you haven’t noticed, I’m kind of an annoying person. While I do know this about myself, there’s not much I can do to change it. I believe it’s genetic – if I did a DNA test, it would show that I’m half-annoying on my mom’s side. But I think my most annoying trait is the way I try to wedge new, fancy words I’ve just learned into everyday conversations. “Oh,” I commented at a Wal-Mart once in fifth grade, “aren’t those raspberries looking sumptuous?”  “Isn’t that just pernicious!” I exclaimed to my husband while reading a text I had received. And trust me, the term liminal spaces was used more than once in essays at university (God knows I would never have just said “college”). This is all to introduce you to a new word that, perhaps, you didn’t already know: lissom, which means slim and graceful. And it’s the perfect description for Farer’s all-new collection of the same name. Coming in at just 38mm and 7.95mm thick, the Farer Lissom is a watch that lives up to its name. Ostensibly a dress watch, the Lissom’s small profile means that the design itself has to be impactful without veering into ostentation. The small details in the series are what successfully balance this. For example, the case sides are engraved in a keyline to make it appear even thinner, the lugs curve in to hug the wrist better, and the dial is accompanied by a slightly oversized subdial and rounded numerals. Like all of Farer’s watches, the color the...

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement Worn & Wound
Brew Introduces May 7, 2025

Brew Introduces the Metric Manual Wind, with a Swiss Mechanical Movement

Brew’s recent history has been marked by two distinct types of watch releases. There are watches that incorporate bold design choices in established platforms, like Metric Star from last year, or our own Metric Chrono Regulator Lumint limited edition. These releases take a distinct point of view on something that is familiar to Brew fans and watch enthusiasts more generally, and keep moving the ball forward on the brand’s aesthetic. Then there are more substantial releases that feel like the brand is reaching for greater heights, toying with an incrementally higher end product. The titanium Metric Chronograph, for instance, seemed like clear upping of the ante in terms of what the Brew catalog might look like across price points, materials, and so on, as did the first mechanical Metric when it was released almost two years ago. If you’ve spent any time at all talking to Brew founder Jonathan Ferrer, you know that he has no shortage of ideas for the brand, so there’s a prevailing sense that a watch that completely changes how we think about Brew could come at any time. The new Metric Manual Wind might be the best example of that to date.  It makes sense, in a lot of ways, that a watch like this would come now. This year marks Brew’s tenth anniversary, and the last decade (especially the last five years or so) have seen the brand grow at a clip rarely seen in the microbrand space. The Metric has proven to be a particularly durable platform for design innovations a...

Hands-on – Experiencing the Appealing Minimalism of The Ressence Type 9 Monochrome
Ressence Type 9 Founded May 2, 2025

Hands-on – Experiencing the Appealing Minimalism of The Ressence Type 9

Founded in 2010 by Belgian industrial designer Benoît Mintiens, Ressence’s design philosophy revolves around deconstructing and displaying time in a contemporary, dynamic way, without the use of hands. Time literally circles around the dial like planets orbiting the Sun, indicated by highly graphic and revolving sub-dials animated by Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS). At […]

Introducing – The New Kudoke 5, with a 24h Rotating Celestial Disc Monochrome
May 2, 2025

Introducing – The New Kudoke 5, with a 24h Rotating Celestial Disc

Independent watchmaking continues to thrive with imaginative creations, and Stefan Kudoke remains a standout name to watch. His HANDwerk collection, launched in 2019, established his reputation for blending mechanical finesse with artistic expression. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 exemplified this fusion beautifully. With the Kudoke 3, he pushed the design further, retaining his signature […]

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 1, 2025

Rolex Oysterquartz: The Complete Guide

When Rolex introduced its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller watch at Watches & Wonders 2025, some longtime fans of the brand experienced a bit of déja vu for a Rolex watch - and a Rolex era - that have been largely consigned to the mists of history. Why? Because the Land-Dweller's angular case and integrated-bracelet design reminded many enthusiasts of the Oysterquartz models introduced during the early heyday of quartz watches in the 1970s. That's correct: once upon a time, Rolex, one of the undisputed champions of luxury watches with mechanical movements, jumped on board the Quartz Revolution bandwagon and not only produced its own in-house quartz calibers but marketed the watches that housed them as the pinnacle of the Crown's timepiece portfolio at the time. Here is everything you need to know about the Rolex Oysterquartz and its quirky but significant place in horological history.  Rolex Oysterquartz: The Early Days Of Electric Watches The wristwatch industry, like any other industry, is uber-competitive and every watchmaker wants to be the first to market with The Next Big Thing. In the 1950s and into the ‘60s, that Next Big Thing was a watch that could be powered by electricity. American companies like Hamilton, with the Ventura, and Bulova, with the Accutron, were among the pioneers, even though the movements that resulted from these early efforts proved to have difficulty maintaining reliability in mass production. The Japanese, particularly Seiko, took a diff...

Introducing – The New Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Collection Monochrome
Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium May 1, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium Collection

In recent years, Citizen has gained incredible visibility with its ultra-accessible take on the 1980s watch with (sort of) an integrated bracelet, the Tsuyosa. With its cool design, fun colours, multiple sizes, and fair price, it brought back the brand on the cool wall (Top Gear viewers will understand the reference…) Building on the success […]

First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection Monochrome
Raymond Weil Apr 30, 2025

First Look – Handsome New Chronographs Expand the Raymond Weil Millesime Collection

Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]

Introducing – The Noctograph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Monochrome
Massena Lab Apr 29, 2025

Introducing – The Noctograph by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès

Founded in 2018 by industry veteran William Massena, design studio Massena LAB has grown rapidly to become a burgeoning project with more than one string to its bow, ranging from accessible watches with Unimatic to high-end timepieces conceived with independent watchmakers. In the latter category, Massena LAB has worked already twice with talented watchmaker Raúl Pagès, […]

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces Worn & Wound
Apr 29, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: James Cox (c.1723–1800) – Early Entrepreneur & Creator of Elaborate and Decorative Timepieces

James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Apr 28, 2025

Nivada-Grenchen Updates the F77 with a Redesigned Case

We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs.  From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...