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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Kodo Saga Daybreak Apr 10, 2024

The Grand Seiko Kodo Saga: Daybreak

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph... Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

Unveiled in 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph was a spectacular showcase of Vacheron Constantin’s dexterity in combining a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon complication with a twist, thanks to its unconventional layout. Now considered a classic, Vacheron has inducted the Traditionnelle into its hall of fame to become a member of the Excellence Platine club. Crafted […]

Video – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with Panda Dial (incl. Video) Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Apr 10, 2024

Video – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox with Panda Dial (incl. Video)

The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox 39mm reference, drawing inspiration from the iconic 1960s model, the Heuer Carrera 7753 SN, introduces a universally beloved panda-style chronograph dial. This latest addition to the series is the first to offer a bracelet option, a significant departure from the previous strap-only models. The new TAG Heuer Carrera […]

Introducing The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Apr 10, 2024

Introducing The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver

The first two days of Watches & Wonders have been fun to cover from the perspective of TBWS. Obviously, many of these watches are to be admired from afar and are not typically something we'd be able to add to our personal collections. But damn, it's still exciting - especially over at the Zenith camp. This year alongside their vintage Revival A3648, the brand has introduced the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver, a very modern dive watch entry that showcases Zenith's technical abilities. Much like last year, Zenith may be running as my favorite exhibitor at Watches & Wonders.

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...

First Look – The New The 38mm Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Collection Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New The 38mm Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time-Only Collection

Following decades of Big Bang domination in extravagant, angular cases in all shapes and sizes, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first Big Bang with a fully integrated metal bracelet. Known as the Big Bang Integrated because of its integrated bracelet and materials, we’ve already seen 40mm cases with openworked dials, and time-and-date displays. Going back to […]

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel

The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The New Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

Putting jokes aside, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a captivating addition to its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor collection: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. Featuring a Grain d’Orge Golden Siena dial devoid of a date function; this timepiece exudes a strikingly pure aesthetic bound to captivate enthusiasts. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness […]

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon During Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case Worn & Wound
Hublot Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integrated in a 38mm Case

Today, Hublot has announced not one, but six new versions of the Big Bang Integrated Time Only, and here’s the kicker - this time they’re 38mm. When the first Hublot watch was launched by Carlo Crocco all the way back in 1980, it stood out. Totally different from anything else on the market, it supposedly took Crocco and his team at MDM Watches three years to develop the rubber strap for the first Hublot. The juxtaposition of a high-end gold case and an integrated rubber strap defined that first watch and “The Art of Fusion” would become the signature of a brand defined by experimentation. It was in that spirit that Hublot released the first Big Bang on a bracelet in 2020 (just a few weeks before the pandemic, as it turned out). I remember the prevailing sentiment at the time being slight surprise that a braceleted Big Bang didn’t already exist and a bemused “okay” before everyone got very distracted by the world shutting down. That first 42mm Big Bang Integral Chronograph was followed up by a 40mm Big Bang Integral Time Only two years later. Those first two Integral models featured skeletonized sapphire dials and sporty red and black highlights. Like many large Hublot releases, they each felt decidedly masculine. Today’s new Big Bang Integrated Time Only releases are much more sedate, swapping sapphire skeleton dials for solid ones finished in somewhat more traditional polished blacks or sunray blues. With their more neutral designs and smaller case siz...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black

Adding to the successful Monsieur collection, the Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition is essentially a new colour for an existing model, but nonetheless proves that Chanel is serious about watchmaking. Thoughtfully designed inside and out, the Intense Black adds racing-inspired cladding to one of the most intriguing watches from outside the establishment watchmakers. Initial thoughts Watches like the Monsieur serve as a reminder that good watches can come from unexpected places – even brands perceived to be “fashion” – and should be a wake-up call for those who think Chanel is just a maker of cosmetics and handbags. Technically competent and well designed, the Monsieur collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to its watchmaking programme. Like the original Monsieur Superleggera launched in 2021, the Intense Black Edition features a 42 mm case made up of a steel inner case with a ceramic cladding, hence superleggera, which is Italian for “super light”. In this respect, the Superleggera benefits enormously from Chanel’s ownership of G&F; Châtelain, which one of just two Swiss suppliers of ceramic watch cases. Despite the Intense Black moniker, the watch is only slightly more black than the 2021 original, which had a few red accents. In fact, they are similar enough that the yellow “Superleggera” script on the dial might prove to be the easiest way to tell the two versions apart. Though the two versions are largely identical, it i...

Introducing – The New White Gold & Blue Dial A. Lange & Söhne Datograph UP/DOWN Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New White Gold & Blue Dial A. Lange & Söhne Datograph UP/DOWN

A. Lange & Söhne’s most emblematic chronograph, the all-time glorious Datograph, needs little introduction. As it is referred to among collectors, the Dato is considered one of the most iconic chronographs on the market. Turning 25 this year, ALS is celebrating the Datograph’s anniversary with a new 125-piece edition in white gold with a blue […]

Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary Fratello
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary

Almost exactly two years ago, I covered the introduction of Piaget’s Tribute to the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. It was a “dark mode” version of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept that celebrated the watch’s fifth anniversary. The year 2024 marks another anniversary for Maison Piaget as it has been 150 years since Georges-Edouard Piaget opened up his first […] Visit Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Bremont Terra Nova Collection of Field Watches Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Collection Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The New Bremont Terra Nova Collection of Field Watches

With a passion for aeroplanes and watches, Bremont Watch Company was founded in 2007 by the English brothers Nick and Giles. Adventure is the overriding theme at Bremont, and its rugged tool watches are designed for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. The latest collection from Bremont’s Henley-on-Thames headquarters is the Terra Nova, debuting with four […]

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Incl Video Apr 10, 2024

First Look – Dune, Horizon, Obsidian… The New Colours of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph (Incl. Video)

Chronographs made their way into the Portugieser family in 1995 with a sophisticated Valjoux-modified rattrapante (IW3712), followed by a classic chronograph, again with a modified Valjoux, in 1998 with the reference IW3714. And then, in 2020, IWC equipped it with a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement to become the IW3716 (don’t miss our article comparing the […]

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years Of The Datograph With The Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” And A New Up/Down Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 10, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years Of The Datograph With The Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” And A New Up/Down

For A. Lange & Söhne, 2024 is the year of the Datograph. The brand’s famous chronograph turns 25 this year, so it’s time to celebrate. As expected, the Glashütte brand does so in style with two new Datograph releases. The first is the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.” Supposing that you are familiar with […] Visit A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years Of The Datograph With The Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” And A New Up/Down to read the full article.

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo Monochrome
Grand Seiko Revisits Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo

In 1960, a team of Seiko engineers produced a watch that encapsulated precision, durability, refined execution and beauty. Launched in a 35mm yellow gold case with a slim, chronometer-rated movement, the specifications of the new watch were so well calibrated that it was christened the Grand Seiko. Celebrating Grand Seiko’s official independence from Seiko in […]