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Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus leaving aside Dec 24, 2024

Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments

There were relatively fewer surprises in 2024, perhaps because of the overall slowdown in demand for luxury watches. There were a few big surprises though, including the biggest one of all, the Patek Philippe Cubitus, leaving aside the leak thanks to a premature publication of Fortune magazine. Perhaps even more surprising and even bigger, both figuratively and literally, was the Bugatti Tourbillon, a hypercar inspired by a watch. Also notable was the fact that there was little unexpected from independent watchmakers, which perhaps underlines the still-robust demand for watches by the indies, which stick to safe bets that are easy to sell. Here’s a look at our team’s take on the unexpected launches of the year. Biver Automatique – SJX The first Biver watch was a carillon minute repeater with tourbillon that was finely finished, inside and out, but it was big, thick, and expensive. The follow-up, in contrast, was almost the opposite. The Automatique is compact and elegantly wearable, with a clean design that has just the right amount of vintage flavour. The only aspect where the Automatique stays true to its predecessor is in the finishing, which is outstanding, inside and out. The surprising bit about the Automatique is the movement. For one, it was developed by Dubois Depraz, better known as a maker of chronograph- and perpetual calendar modules mounted on ETA movements. Second, it arguably exceeds the movement of the Carillon Tourbillon in terms of design and decor...

My Year in Watches: A No “New Watch Alert” Year Worn & Wound
Seiko stable but Dec 23, 2024

My Year in Watches: A No “New Watch Alert” Year

My year in watches this year has been…unique in the time since I started collecting watches oh so many years ago. What’s different this year? I didn’t purchase a single watch! For the first time in over 20 years I went the whole year without adding any watches to my collection. For over two decades I’ve always bought some, sold some, or traded some so that I end up at the end of each year with a more refined collection that is usually in the plus column. I have to say that I didn’t even realize this year was different until our illustrious editor Zach gave us this assignment. I’m still always looking at and for watches though, especially for a few specific models. My bi-weekly eBay Finds column keeps me poring through the eBay listings on a regular basis, and I do still see lots of great pieces on Instagram. But how did I end up in this rarest of predicaments, finishing the year without any new additions to the collection? Like most things in life, the reasons are myriad. I would have to say the biggest factors would be that I’m pretty darn happy with the state of my collection as it currently stands, and there are few watches (that I can afford to buy) that I’m still searching for. I mean, I’m always on the lookout for a nice vintage Squale, and there are some pieces that I would still love to add to the Seiko stable, but the models I’m looking for are quite hard to find for sale in the condition I desire. So it’s not that I didn’t want to add any ...

Hands-On: the Orion Sylph Worn & Wound
Seiko NH movements- Dec 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Orion Sylph

I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury. Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sh...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More Fratello
Zenith Tudor Dec 23, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More

Lists - don’t you love ‘em? Well, I do. Unlike Lex, our resident Grinch, I love a good list. That should come as no surprise, though, as I am Fratello’s in-house list fanatic. It was interesting to read that Lex likes to look forward to what’s to come rather than looking back at what has […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More to read the full article.

The Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Porter Is A Watch That Will Turn Heads WatchAdvice
Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Dec 23, 2024

The Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Porter Is A Watch That Will Turn Heads

Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster!

Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black Fratello
Dec 22, 2024

Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black

Excelsior Park re-entered the market with a boom in 2021. The brand released many models, created limited editions and one-offs, and then retreated until this year. This past summer, after a few years of hibernation, EP returned with a time-only model, the 884-SI. The watch received positive reviews for its appearance and competitive price. Now […] Visit Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black to read the full article.

Diving with the Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Dec 22, 2024

Diving with the Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer

When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Profile of RaMell Ross, the Year of the Smart Lock, and Death of a Unicorn Gets a Trailer Worn & Wound
Dec 21, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Profile of RaMell Ross, the Year of the Smart Lock, and Death of a Unicorn Gets a Trailer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. A Special Edition of a Great Pack from Triple Aught Design  We are at the point where time is, frankly, not on your side if you’re looking for last minute holiday gifts. But we couldn’t help but include this new edition of the highly regarded FAST Pack Litespeed from Triple Aught Design as a last minute holiday gift for the gear and EDC enthusiast, Or for yourself, no judgement, we promise. The Black Magic Edition is, as you’d expect, a completely blacked out rendition of the 22 liter pack. It features Challenge Sailcloth’s ULTRA 400 fabric, an uncommonly lightweight, strong, and waterproof material. The retail price is $550, and more information can be found here. The Year of the Smart Lock is Coming  The end of the year always brings a slew of think pieces from many of our favorite publications on what to look for in the new year in terms of trends, tech, and just about everything else. Over at The Verge, they’ve got a story on 2025 being the year of the smart lock that caught our attention. Smartlocks make a lot of sense – they can be tied to an app on your phone, an...

Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02 Fratello
Dec 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02

The Alcadus Quantra is a striking example of how a microbrand can evolve, delivering a product that competes with more established microbrands at higher price points. From its tasteful design and refined build quality to its thoughtful packaging and enjoyable unboxing experience, this watch encapsulates a level of sophistication that is rare at its price […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Alcadus Quantra Type 01 And Type 02 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema Dec 21, 2024

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black […] Visit Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.

eBay Finds: A Vintage Girard-Perregaux Casquette, a Classic Seamaster in Original Condition, and a Pulsar with the Full Kit Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Casquette Dec 20, 2024

eBay Finds: A Vintage Girard-Perregaux Casquette, a Classic Seamaster in Original Condition, and a Pulsar with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette  Coming in with the heat to start this week, with this very cool and very rare vintage Girard Perregaux  Casquette LED watch. This super-futuro watch debuted in 1976 and is so iconic that GP reissued it as a heritage edition in 2022. But this here is the O.G. GP LED (sorry, I had to do that…), and it even comes with the original box. What makes this model unique is the side view ‘drivers’ design where the LED window is inset, giving it an old school computer console look. The 32mm wide steel case is in good shape, unpolished and still showing the original brushed finish. It comes on the original bracelet, although the seller states it will only fit up to a 7” wrist. The watch works well with no missing LED segments, however one of the buttons is a little sticky per the seller. The watch comes with the original box, which is a little beat up. Still, this is a really nice example of an exceptional watch. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7006-8040  Here’s one that is a little simpler, a straight forward vintage Seiko 7006-8040 on the original bracelet. This is your classic 1970’s sporty/dress Seiko, with a silver dial, day/date window at 3 o...