Hodinkee
Introducing: TAG Heuer's Aquaracer Solargraph Is Back And Lighter Than Ever
With a new titanium case and bracelet, TAG Heuer has made a great watch for Earth's harshest environments.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold
The Casio G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now available in a Full-Metal yellow gold hued case and bracelet Casio are catching up with the modding community slowly, but with more originality and authenticity Solar charging and Bluetooth connectivity make it an extremely practical watch It may have taken Casio several years to catch up to the modding … ContinuedThe post The Full-Metal G-SHOCK “CasiOak” is now in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK’s Latest Titanium Release Combines the Aesthetics of a Circuit Board with Camouflage to Great Effect
G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots. The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques. The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...
Worn & Wound
Just a Minute With The Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition
Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. Let’s take just a minute with a couple of bar flies, Zodiac, and Rowing Blazers. This latest collaboration between Harry’s Bar, Rowing Blazers, and Zodiac features the classic Sea Wolf case: 40mm diameter, 49mm in length, and 13.5mm thick. The Sea Wolf’s lug width is 20mm, and features a five-link bracelet, but it also comes with a custom French military-style hook & loop strap with a signed metal loop. The post Just a Minute With The Zodiac x Rowing Blazers Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 37 mm Turquoise Dial
Audemars Piguet (AP) just launched over a dozen new models, ranging from the Royal Oak “Jumbo” with a grained dial to the first Offshore Chronograph with a ceramic bracelet. But one stands out despite being the smallest watch amongst the new launches. Dressed in yellow gold and a striking stone dial, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm Turquoise Dial is a throwback back to an earlier era when the Royal Oak was offered with a range of mineral stone dials. Initial thoughts Though relatively common in the 1970s and 1980s when stone dials were a thing, the turquoise-yellow gold combination is unusual today. But it has a certain timelessness so the combination remains attractive. In fact, it even feels current, a testament to the longevity of the Royal Oak design (and the current fad for robin-egg blue dials). The watch is intrinsically attractive in its design and palette. The design is simple – almost minimalist in Royal Oak terms – but the watch has presence due to its colours. It is vibrant and loud, very much the opposite of, say the new “Jumbo” in white gold, which is decidedly low key in comparison. One element I wish was different is the seconds hand – I would have preferred a two-hand dial as on the vintage Royal Oak models with stone dials. That simplicity would further accentuate the dial material. The case does feel slightly small for a modern men’s watch. It is an acceptable size, but the dimensions of the model means it feels slightly smaller than it...
Time+Tide
AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more…
New stainless-steel Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet models mark first-ever debut for AP. New Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin takes a Tapisserie break with grained dial treatment. New Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph / 42mm marks first to use a full ceramic case and bracelet. New Royal Oak 37mm Turquoise stone dial is a fresh take on … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 1: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new grained dial Royal Oak Jumbo, and more… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Tutima Saxon One Chronograph: It Offers A Lot Of Watch For Its Price
The Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. The big question for Martin Green is, strap or bracelet?
Time+Tide
OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021
Grand Seiko has issued a standard production Lake Suwa sequel to the limited edition SLGA007, the new SLGA021 Includes an Evolution 9 case and bracelet, 9RA2 5-day Spring Drive calibre, Lake Suwa textured dial. The SLGA021 dial is darker than the previous SLGA007, and also does not use a golden-toned hand and logo like the SLGA007. … ContinuedThe post OPINION: I am simultaneously fawning over, yet frustrated with, the new Grand Seiko SLGA021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup
It’s been a good couple of years for Zenith (waiting lists and all), and they’re off to a blazing start for 2023 with the release of the new Defy Skyline Skeleton at LVMH Watch Week in Singapore. This integrated model has been a popular pick since it was introduced, and the new version features some … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton is a superstar in their 2023 lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit
Laurent Ferrier gives us a fourth iteration of the Grand Sport Tourbillon After the rich-boy flex of the Golden Brown, the reference returns to its sporty roots with a titanium case and bracelet The icing on top? A beautiful gradient salmon dial When Laurent Ferrier released the first Grand Sport Tourbillon, it stood out. In … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Laurent Ferrier cuts weight with the Grand Sport Tourbillon Pursuit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française
The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.
Worn & Wound
The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition - Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop
The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. The post The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact
Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead. These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...
Time+Tide
LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection
The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours
We’ve paid a lot of attention to the re-emerging Delma recently, a Swiss brand with nearly a century of unbroken history that not enough people knew about. It may also surprise you to learn that around 20 years ago, Delma integrated another brand into their company with a similar story - and that brand is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs
This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune
The Baume and Mercier Riviera is fast becoming one of my favourite integrated sports watches. In a sea of watches that have recently jumped on the bandwagon, the Riviera has a ton of history behind it. They first hit the scene in all their quartz glory back in 1973 and, in nearly 50 years, have … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Baume & Mercier take us to the moon with the Riviera Phases de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer
It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
7 Watch Strap Types and the Pros and Cons of Each
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. Watch straps vary widely in their materials, construction, finishing, and even in their original intended usage, with some straps projecting a sense of genteel refinement and others possessing military ruggedness or everyday sportiness. Here is a look at five watch strap types, their origins, and their attributes. Dress Leather Strap The practice of attaching watches to leather straps goes all the way back to the Boer Wars of the late 19th Century, which were fought in South Africa. British soldiers began wearing their pocket watches on crude leather attachments rather than in their jacket pockets because they often needed to doff their jackets and waistcoats in the extreme African heat. By the early 1900s, pioneers like London saddlemaker Alfred Pearson and Swiss watch importers the Dimier brothers were converting pocket watches into wristwatches by soldering wire lugs onto the cases and slipping such leather wristlets through them to secure them to wrists. The style became widespread after World War I, during which military men wore these wristwatches on the battlefield, and entered the realm of high fashion in subsequent years. Leather straps are usually made from calfskin, alligator, or crocodile leather (the latter two generally being associated with a higher level of luxury), but other, more exotic types...
Deployant
New Release: Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon, now in red gold
Laurent Ferrier releases a new variant of its Grand Sport Tourbillon in a red gold case and bracelet with a gradient chocolate dial.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Nomos' New Club Is Just The Right Size (Live Pics, Pricing)
The German watchmaker gets sporty with a 37mm, bracelet-clad version of the Club Sport that is a surefire crowd-pleaser.
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT White
Bell & Ross adds to their popular BR 05 GMT with a new version with a clean, white dial. Available with a black rubber strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
WatchAdvice
2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review
What we like: Dial design is a real head turner Beautiful bracelet with mirror finishGreat price point for a Swiss chronograph What we don’t like: Some may not like the thickness of the watch Scatches will show up easily on the bracelet The watch can wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Overall rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 One of the most anticipated watches in 2022 has just been released, and Watchadvice has been given a chance to do a full in-depth review of it. The Tissot PRX Chronograph is the latest addition to the ever-popular Tissot PRX collection released last year. The Tissot PRX was a revamp of the original PRX created in 1978. Back then, Tissot released the PRX in an emblematic design with an integrated case and bracelet. The model stood out for its timeless design and sleek slender appearance. Unlike this modern reinterpretation, the original model came in various dial colours and different case shapes. The original Tissot PRX never had a chance to be in the limelight, as the model was released when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 and Patek Philippe released the Nautilus in 1976. Now, however, I feel like the Tissot PRX (40 205) is getting the undivided attention it deserves. The latest Tissot PRX is a much-loved timepiece upon its release, with watch fanatics jumping on the bandwagon to get their hands on this piece. While the Tissot PRX is a fantastic watch an...
SJX Watches
Hautlence Returns with the Linear Series 1
The sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence is a maker of highly contemporary watches that’s been on ice for several years as its owners completed Moser’s resurrection. Now Hautlence is making a comeback with a trio of watches led by the Linear Series 1. Adopting the TV-shaped case that’s historically the brand’s signature – but now matched with an integrated rubber strap – the Linear Series 1 features a retrograde hours on a straight-line scale along with a flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Initial thoughts Hautlence was founded in 2004 and found success during the subsequent boom in the luxury watch industry. Its fortunes faded together with that era of good times, so it is perhaps fitting that the brand is now being revived in the midst of another boom. The Linear Series 1 smartly returns to the TV-screen case that defined the brand since its inception. When combined with the open dial it is distinctive at a distance and recognisable as a Hautlence. Naturally the case design has been tweaked for today’s tastes, so it gets an integrated rubber strap. The sporty stance of the new look is appealing, although the integrated strap and folding clasp means it won’t fit perfectly on all wrists. Mechanically the Linear Series 1 is the result of a Moser base movement and an Agenhor module (that was originally developed for RJ-Romain Jerome), so it has solid technical credentials. Besides a retrograde hours, the movement also have a flying tourbillon with do...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best Seiko 5 Sports Watches
The Seiko 5 watch series traces its roots all the way back to 1963, when the Japanese mega-brand introduced the original Seiko Sportsmatic 5, a groundbreaking timepiece that ushered in the emblematic “five attributes” that define the vast collection today. These include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case and bracelet made of durable materials. Stylistically, the watches run the gamut from dress pieces to field watches to divers, with all kinds of variations in between (the current shorthand descriptions are Sense, Specialist, Sports, Suits, and Street). Seiko 5 watches still adhere to those five principles initially laid out more than half a century ago while still retaining the famously inexpensive price points that have made them so desirable - from under $100 to the neighborhood of $500 for the more exclusive editions. Seiko 5 watches - rebranded in the collection’s relaunch in 2019 as Seiko 5 Sports, despite offering this diversity of styles - have a worldwide fan following, with many JDM (Japan Direct Market) models highly sought after by American collectors due to their scarcity. And for many a budding watch collector of modest means, a Seiko 5 watch is the gateway drug to a full-blown timepiece obsession. Here we spotlight some of our favorites. SRPC65 “Bottlecap” Reference: SRPC65, Price: $150-$250, Case Size: 45mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug-to-L...
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin introduces a new dial colour to the acclaimed Overseas Perpetual Calender Ultra-Thin Skeleton model, now with a full gold bracelet.
SJX Watches
Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore
Patek Philippe is one of the most revered watch brands but an outlier amongst its peers in relying almost entirely on independent retailers to sell its watches. Of the hundreds of Patek Philippe points-of-sale around the world, the brand owns just three. But the converse is true for its after-sales service where the brand is almost entirely vertically integrated. Patek Philippe will soon own and operate ten service centres in key cities around the world, backed up with four of its own watchmaking institutes. The Geneva watchmaker does this to fulfil its pledge of being able to repair and maintain “all timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe since production began in 1839”. Consolidation and consistency In pursuit of a uniformly high standard of service across the world, Patek Philippe is in the process of consolidating its service network from a peak of 59 service centres worldwide, some of which were run by independent retailers, to just ten key locations. Amongst the regional centres are one each in Germany, France, and the United States, but most will be located in Asia – the brand’s biggest market – in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and Singapore. All of the ten will be run by Patek Philippe itself, or more specifically, its regional subsidiaries. The Singapore service centre, for instance, is run by Geneva Master Time (GMT), Patek Philippe’s subsidiary for Southeast Asia. GMT also has a smaller service centre in Bangkok, a necessity given that Thailand i...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch
Previously, the Speake-Marin catalogue was limited to dressier timepieces outfitted on straps. Recently, however, Speake-Marin unveiled their first foray into the immensely popular integrated stainless-steel sports category with their new Ripples design. The 50 metre water-resistant stainless-steel case effectively presents a large circular dial within a cushion format. While 40.3mm in diameter, because the dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Speake Marin makes waves with new Ripples watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review
Pros: The blue glacier pattern dial Interchangeable strap – takes seconds to change between a steel bracelet and a rubber strap Bang for buck Divers watch with all the right features Cons: 41 hours of power reserve is too short in today’s standardBetween the bracelet and the rubber strap, the rubber strap wears much nicer on the wrist Some may not appreciate the details on the dial Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc? This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif. The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece....