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Results for Swiss Lever Escapement

1,573 articles · 652 videos found · page 42 of 75

Tissot Introduces the Sideral SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Introduces the Sideral

Fun, affordable, and well-equipped, the Sideral is a surprisingly interesting entry-level sports watch from Tissot. Where many recent sports watches been Genta-inspired with integrated bracelets – Tissot’s own PRX among them – the Sideral reminds us that the 70s were a time of broader experimentation for the Swiss watch industry, in terms of both design and materials. Based on the playful and quirky Sideral S from 1971, the newSideral is not a one-to-one remake of the original. Instead, it’s been smartly updated in both design and functionality. While the original Sideral S featured a fiberglass case, then a world first, the reissue has a more contemporary carbon composite case. With its clever use of lume plus a regatta countdown bezel, the Sideral packs a surprising amount of character for the price. The original Sideral S from 1971 (lower left) next to the new Sideral. Initial thoughts Heritage remakes have become a common trope in the luxury watch industry over the past few years, but brands have mostly focused on bringing back their most timeless and iconic designs from the 1950s and 1960s; the Tudor Black Bay 54 is a perfect example. In this context, the launch of the funky Sideral is a breath of fresh air, since the original design is comparatively obscure and likely unknown to many contemporary enthusiasts.  The dial itself is generously and playfully lumed, with four different colours of Super-LumiNova across the collection to bring it to life in the dark...

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 Jun 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42

The Longines Spirit lineup has become a go-to collection to recommend when someone asks what a great option would be for an entry-level Swiss luxury watch. The collection, now three years into its current generation, has seen quite rapid growth with a variety of aesthetic and functional configurations. Born initially in 2020 with 40mm and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis Worn & Wound
Oris Goes Big Jun 13, 2023

Oris Goes Big with their New Aquis

Oris is once again expanding their Aquis collection, this time debuting a reference with a small seconds indicator in a case with a larger footprint, the Aquis Small Second Date 45.5mm. The Aquis is one of the Swiss brand’s signature creations, and as such Oris has endeavored to make it available, and palatable, to a huge range of potential customers, with cases ranging from 36.5mm all the way up to 45.8mm for the Aquis Depth Gauge. Over the last few release cycles, we’ve seen Oris put a focus on the smaller and medium sized watches, but here we get a big one, with a case measuring 45.5mm, a brand new size for the diver, and featuring the increasingly rare small seconds indicator at 9:00.  When we think about dive watches, normally we consider them along the metric of water resistance and legibility, but there’s another core component of any diver that is less discussed and often taken for granted, and that’s being able to immediately determine if the watch is running. Needless to say, a dive watch that has stopped running doesn’t do you very much good at all, and could potentially be quite dangerous for a diver relying on their watch to time surface intervals or bottom time. If you picture a dive watch in your mind’s eye, you’re likely to think of one with a centrally mounted seconds hand, which makes it easy to see at a glance whether or not a watch is functioning at its most basic level. But for timing purposes, getting a readout to the second isn’t of ...

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Earlier Jun 9, 2023

Editorial: All the Fuss Over a “Franken” Omega Speedmaster

Earlier this week, leading Swiss-German newspapers Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) published a lengthy story about the possible fraud behind the record-setting sale of an Omega Speedmaster ref. 2915-1 at Phillips in 2021. Mystifying at the time, the CHF3.12 million result was a huge number that far exceeded past records for that particular Speedmaster. As NZZ revealed in its story, the Speedmaster in question was a “Franken” watch pieced together from assorted vintage components – and some fake parts – and it was purchased by Omega itself, on the advice of its then museum head. The allegations are that the then museum head was in cahoots with the seller of the watch. Omega has gone to the police with this, and also released a statement, noting in part, “Omega and Phillips were the joint victims of organised criminal activity involving the selling of this specific watch by auction.” The Omega Museum, which fortunately has enough correct and legitimate vintage Speedmasters on display. Image – Omega Both Omega and Phillips should have done more due diligence, but it appears a few bad actors were diligent in allegedly defrauding Omega. For more on the matter, Dutch watch publication Fratello published an excellent examination of the happenings. The alleged fraud has been covered widely in the mass media, from Bloomberg to Fortune, ironically the same publications that last year touted the success and value-appreciation of the Speedmaster. Mountains and molehills The ...

IWC’s Mark Series Turns 75, and the Brand Celebrates with a New Silver Dialed Variant of the Popular Pilot’s Watch Worn & Wound
Rolex fans were close Jun 5, 2023

IWC’s Mark Series Turns 75, and the Brand Celebrates with a New Silver Dialed Variant of the Popular Pilot’s Watch

Last year, IWC launched the Mark XX in a somewhat unusual way for a marquee watch from a big Swiss brand: without much fanfare at all. We’re accustomed in the watch world to getting teased about new releases weeks ahead of time, with splashy PR campaigns to accompany the biggest reveals. The Mark watches, for many watch enthusiasts, are the watch collection that comes to mind when thinking about IWC. So for the new Mark, arguably the most critical of the entire Pilot lineup (don’t @ me, Big Pilot fans) to just kind of appear on the website one day last year was a little surprising.  Now, almost a year later, the Mark XX is very much out there and certainly no longer an under the radar secret to stumble over. The subtle updates to the dial (including a date window which appears to be a bit more in harmony with the outer Arabic numerals clocking the hours) and a higher spec movement have gone over well with the collector community, and the Mark XX is the rare update to a core collection watch, from any brand, that seems to have a consensus around being an improvement. Think about how rare that is, for a minute. When the new 41mm Submariner was announced in 2020, Rolex fans were close to war. But with the new Mark, if you liked the last one, chances are you were going to like this one more. If it was never your thing to begin with, your opinion probably didn’t change. It was that most uncommon type of watch release: one with no real controversy.  Since the black and b...

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties Deployant
Cartier Top 3 favorites from May 27, 2023

Cartier: Top 3 favorites from 2023 novelties

Discover the exquisite world of Cartier luxury watches, including iconic collections like the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos. Explore the artistry, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance of these Swiss timepieces, crafted by one of the most prestigious heritage brands in the industry. Delve into the historical significance and innovative designs that have made Cartier a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

Rolex Milgauss Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex May 26, 2023

Rolex Milgauss Guide

Rolex, as always, made news at Watches & Wonders Geneva back in April with many of the new watches it will be releasing this year (we covered many of them here), but the Swiss luxury brand generated nearly as much buzz with an announcement about a watch that it won’t be making anymore. Back in March, Rolex announced that the Milgauss, a model it had been making continuously since 2007, with roots that go back even further, would cease production this year. The news was not necessarily a shock to everyone - the Milgauss was not on a par with Rolex’s most popular models, waiting-list mainstays like the Daytona, Submariner, and GMT-Master - but it was a disappointing splash of reality to the subgroup of Rolexistas who love the cult-classic antimagnetic watch, while also serving as a call to attention for watch-market speculators who rarely find a Rolex shortage that they aren’t eager to monetize. What makes the Milgauss such a niche favorite in the Rolex portfolio? Read on. Rolex founder Hans Wisdorf (above) could be described as many things: a visionary entrepreneur, a brilliant marketer, a founding father of the modern watch industry. But at his true core, Wilsdorf was essentially a problem solver. Just about every contribution that he and his company made to horological history sprang from a dedication to fixing or eliminating some issue that plagued watch wearers. Too tedious to wind your watch every day? Here’s the Perpetual movement (below). Your watch isn...

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? Time+Tide
Rolex waitlists? If you ask May 21, 2023

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists?

If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer s Carrera from May 16, 2023

A Different Kind of Coffee Watch: Hublot and Nespresso Team Up for a Big Bang Unico that is All About Recycled Materials

In an early contender for what has to be in the running for the most unexpected and head spinning collaborative watches of the year, Hublot has partnered with Nespresso, the Swiss coffee company, on a big green chronograph made in part from recycled aluminum coffee capsules. It’s an effort by both brands to highlight their sustainability efforts, and an opportunity for Hublot flex some of their materials muscle. The end result is undeniably Hublot in its appearance, and kind of an under the radar coffee watch, which is more than can be said about LVMH stablemate TAG Heuer’s Carrera from a few years ago, with a dial made from actual coffee grounds. I actually quite like that coffee Carrera, and enjoy taking any opportunity available to remind people that it’s a real watch that actually exists.  Anyway, back to Hublot, and the Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin. To fully grasp this watch, you first need to have an understanding of Nespresso’s core product, which is a single serving coffee platform built around little aluminum capsules (containing the coffee) that get popped into a Nespresso machine, and at the touch of a button you get a perfectly brewed cup of coffee, espresso, or a selection of other hot and cold beverages. Nespresso, of course, isn’t the only game in town when it comes to this sort of single serving coffee machine, but one thing that sets them apart from some of their competition is a focus on the materials used for those capsules. The aluminum po...

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? Time+Tide
Rolex novelties hit May 14, 2023

First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit?

No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso May 14, 2023

Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it…

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin finds use for recycled aluminium and coffee grounds from Nespresso capsules. You can even see flecks of coffee running throughout the rubber strap. The Hublot Greenbox is also being introduced, which will house all Hublot’s future collections. Recycled materials have been appearing more and more in Swiss luxury … ContinuedThe post Like coffee? The Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin is made from it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday Time+Tide
Alpina introduces May 3, 2023

Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday

It was birthday season at Watches and Wonders 2023 with Swiss brand Alpina celebrating its 140th year of existence. Established in 1883, Alpina has become synonymous with sports watches since establishing its core design tenants of anti-magnetic, steel, shock-resistant, and water-resistant watches way back in 1938. In 2022, Alpina’s revamped Alpiner Extreme collection caught the … ContinuedThe post Alpina introduces an Extreme Alpiner quartet on its 140th birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2023

Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases

Established in 1988, Frederique Constant is a relatively new player on the Swiss watch scene with a mere 35 years under its belt – a blink in the eye of the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Despite its comparatively shorter history, the brand has still garnered worldwide success on the back of solid, classic design and quality … ContinuedThe post Frederique Constant celebrates 35 years with three new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop Time+Tide
Norqain picks from Apr 30, 2023

D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop

We’ve got some exciting news! Time + Tide is now an authorised dealer for Norqain, and we couldn’t be more thrilled. The Swiss brand has been making waves since they burst onto the scene five years ago, with attractive original designs that back up their good looks with some truly proper specs. A fiercely independent … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s top three Norqain picks from the shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab Time+Tide
Louis Erard Apr 26, 2023

Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab

Konstantin Chaykin introduces a new one-eyed monster in collaboration with Louis Erard Le Regulateur is available in both 39 and 42mm variants These timepieces are inspired by Stephen King, Goya and the Slavic monster Lykho Louis Erard has always specialised in elegant, fairly affordable Swiss watchmaking. Of late, however, thanks to the guidance of interim … ContinuedThe post Monster mash-up: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin team up for a fearsome collab appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox travel alarm but Apr 22, 2023

The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors

If you’re a horological junkie, there are better ways to rouse yourself from Dreamland than your iPhone. For the totally hardcore watch aficionado, you could always hunt down a classic Swiss travel clock, such as a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox travel alarm, but if you’re looking for something minus the mechanical ticking that might keep you awake … ContinuedThe post The best part of waking up: 5 awesome alarm clocks for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1 Worn & Wound
Bremont s ENG300 calibers Eventually Apr 21, 2023

Hands-On: Horage Lensman 1

Horage is a bit of an oddity in the watch world. Most brands build for years and years to be able to produce even a simple three-hand movement, should they even choose to go that route, and they tend to demand a high price. Horage has been working on theirs since its inception and has maintained a goal of industrialization over high prices starting with the K1, which had a silicon escapement and a modular complication system back at launch. Though it didn’t get the attention it deserved initially, it did inevitably ascend the horology ranks and prove its viability, as the K1 serves as the basis of Bremont’s ENG300 calibers. Eventually, Horage added the micro-rotor wound K2, featured in the Supersede. Another rarity, in addition to being thin, as micro-rotors tend to be, the K2 also featured modular design allowing for complications without increasing the base movement’s thickness by much, as well as a silicon escapement, 72-hour power reserve, and within chronometer accuracy. Another movement that would be impressive coming from a large luxury group, let alone an independent brand like Horage. While neither are small feats, today we’re looking at a watch with a movement that is perhaps even more impressive. The Lensman 1 features the K-TOU caliber, which is Horage’s in-house, Swiss-made tourbillon. Yes, you read that right. And the watch, despite featuring such a rare and exotic complication, comes in at under $10k. There’s a lot more to the watch as well, whic...

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside Worn & Wound
Tudor Opens Apr 13, 2023

Tudor Opens the Doors of its New Manufacture and We Got to Step Inside

Tudor’s recent road is a case study on how to properly revive, or reintroduce a brand to the world. Just in the last 10ish years, we’ve watched them go from a vintage fascination but a contemporary obscurity to one of the leading modern Swiss watch brands. A brand that went from unavailable in the US, to globally reinvigorating and dominating the $3-5k price point. And now, in 2023, they’ve marked another milestone, the opening of their new assembling and testing facility in Le Locle. A massive structure, it houses in a split building with entrances on either side, Tudor and the movement manufacturer they created, Kenissi. Standing on 330, 30-meter tall concrete pillars to reach sturdy bedrock below, the building is 150-meters long, 30-meters high, and consists of 8,050 cubic meters of concrete and 960 tons of metal framing. State of the art in many ways, the project took five years from start to finish, including three for construction, with some transitions and new operations finishing in April of 2023. Airey, with large, automatically tinting glass windows and an intentionally industrial interior veneer, the structure spoke to mid-century architecture, if completed and outfitted with the newest technologies one can expect in a watch-making facility. In many ways, the building suits the products that Tudor currently makes, watches with vintage aesthetic cues, but firmly up-to-date construction. Watches that despite certainly qualifying as luxury timepieces, avoid t...

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future

Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified Time+Tide
Apr 2, 2023

The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified

The new BA111OD CHPTR_Δ introduces hypocycloidal time-telling. Olivier Mory, who built the cheapest Swiss-made tourbillon, was involved with the in-house BA111LOD 09310 module. For only US$2,620, it’s an incredible value proposition for a technical Swiss luxury watch. BA111OD have only been around since 2019, but there seems to be no limit to their ambition of … ContinuedThe post The BA111OD CHPTR_Δ is hypocycloidal genius personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hermes Expands their H08 Collection Mar 29, 2023

Hermes Expands their H08 Collection with Sleek New Three Handers and an Impressive Chronograph

This year, Hermès has expanded their H08 line with their Watches & Wonders novelties, adding several new colors to the base model in their composite case material, as well as a very impressive monopusher chronograph. Hermès is a favorite meeting at Watches & Wonders. The brand has a history that sits well outside traditional Swiss watchmaking culture. As a luxury design house, they are primarily known for their leather work, and the iconography of the brand is largely associated with their roots in equestrian sports. They have greatly expanded their watchmaking reach in recent years, however, with Vaucher supplied movements and a series of winning designs that have legitimized the brand in the watchmaking space.  The H08 was introduced two years ago as the “sporty-chic” Hermès sports watch. This year’s new introductions feature the brand’s very interesting composite material, made from a mix of carbon fiber and graphene powder. The result is a lightweight 39mm case that Hermès claims is resistant to wear, and it has a unique textured appearance that looks almost hammered by hand but is smooth to the touch (Hermès says it’s coated with aluminum and slate powder). Whether or not the aesthetic is appealing will be a largely subjective matter, but the case has a great weight and feel on the wrist, and the cushion shape is comfortable and seems well suited to casual, daily wear. The case is accented with a black ceramic bezel that makes for a great contrast with...