Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater
Over-the-top watchmaking meets a design full of character for a showcase of the brand at its best.
Results for Beads of Rice Bracelet
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser
Hublot regularly makes headlines. Most of the time, however, these headlines revolve around marketing and branding. A new superstar ambassador or a crazy limited edition is more likely to generate exposure than pure watchmaking prowess. Now, in part, this is down to Hublot’s doing. The house focuses on being radical, and it doesn’t mind stepping […] Visit Talking In-House Movement Manufacturing With Hublot’s Chief Product Officer, Sadry Keiser to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Eska Amphibian 250 Destro, a new Lefty Take on the Tool Watch
In a market overcrowded with vintage-inspired dive watches, ranging from truly affordable models to high-end watches produced by esteemed brands, Eska, a name with over 100 years of history (with a stop from 1987 to 2024), has managed to find a place for its cool-looking, well-built and fairly priced Amphibian 250 collection. Modelled after a […]
Time+Tide
Time+Tide take over British Watchmakers’ Day 2026
For the third year running, British Watchmakers' Day brings the best of this small country's horology all in one place. The post Time+Tide take over British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe)
Perhaps “caught between a rock and a hard place” is a bit of an exaggeration, but it seems that Jaeger-LeCoultre is trapped between status and prestige. A Rolex on the wrist is a status symbol, and a Patek Philippe is the prestigious choice. But what does a JLC on the wrist say about its owner? […] Visit Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe) to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties
I’ve been a freelance journalist for 14 years, and while watches have been part of my repertoire since the beginning, I didn’t fully niche into the horological sphere until 2018. One of the assignments I consider to be a breakout story that really gave my career in the watch world momentum came a year later in 2019. At the time, I was writing for The Hour Glass, and I had the opportunity to cover the inauguration of the Gérald Genta Heritage Association. In my then seven-year journey ascending to full horological obsession, I had come to revere Genta as one of the most influential figures in the history of watchmaking, and, in particular, I was charmed by the story of how the Royal Oak came to be. Yes, I have since referenced, been told, and retold the tale dozens of times over, but for me, Genta and the creation of the Royal Oak – the moment that arguably gave his career in the watch world momentum – will never get old and forever hold a special place in my heart. With that said, I’m here to share my hands-on experience with Audemars Piguet’s first semester novelties thanks to a recent trip to AP House in downtown New York City. Among them are several new versions of the Royal Oak, and while none of these are the frontrunner of the lineup, they still bear recognition in my humble opinion. Yes, I will have to respectfully disagree with my Editorial Director Zach Kazan’s opinion piece defining the Royal Oak as “a pure flex.” Sure, like countless luxury ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Otsuka Lotec No. 8 (Live Photos)
Inspired by the mixing consoles of the iconic Abbey Road Studios, the new Otsuka Lotec No. 8 features a uniquely inventive design.
Monochrome
Introducing - Otsuka Lotec Presents its New Creation, the No.8 Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute
Otsuka Lotec… The Japanese brand (or should we call it an atelier) that makes some noise in the global watch collecting community, despite being unavailable outside of Japan – which might partially explain its popularity. A true JDM sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of Jiro Katayama, a car designer turned self-taught, independent watchmaker, specialised […]
Time+Tide
Lorca’s Model No.2 Chronograph raises the bar for vintage-inspired chronographs
Lorca's new Model No.2 is a stunning example of a heritage-inspired, triple-register chronograph done right.The post Lorca’s Model No.2 Chronograph raises the bar for vintage-inspired chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Best Affordable Omega Speedmasters Under €5,000
As we all know, the ever-increasing retail prices of watches have bumped some of our very favorite models to new heights. This also applies to the Omega Speedmaster (Professional). The new Speedmaster Professional “Reverse Panda” will set you back over €10k, the white-dial Speedmaster “Craig White” is €9k, and the standard version with the Hesalite […] Visit The Best Affordable Omega Speedmasters Under €5,000 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch
If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out. I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a dif...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Sensible New Mido Commander Datoday
When it comes to finding a solid, accessible yet appealing watch meant to be a reliable companion for most of the moments in your life, from the office to the weekend fun, the choice is wide, to say the least. With its Commander collection, Swiss brand Mido has a strong alternative, with a modern, sleek […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! We’re back (sort of) after more travels, and this week, we discuss the fallout that happens once a formerly unloved brand becomes popular. Call it sour grapes or wanting to keep something to oneself, but feel free to listen to our thoughts on the subject. Enjoy […] Visit Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream to read the full article.
Fratello
Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight
When it comes to luxury products, “value” is a somewhat contradictory term. After all, isn’t the entire point that a luxury product offers something magical that transcends the mere function at the expense of affordability? Maybe so, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any sweet spots in the market. Some watches simply punch way above […] Visit Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized
When it comes to luxury watches, rarely is a timepiece experienced on the wrist before it is admired through a lens. Horological photography has evolved so much that high-resolution imagery and macro-cinematography have become a virtual loupe, portraying the watch’s qualities and character through focus stacking and special lighting. For brands like MING, the photograph is the primary medium of truth, since the founder of the company is a world-class photographer. Ming Thein spent years dissecting the world’s finest timepieces through the lens of a camera. Before long, he became one of the industry’s most respected photographers, forming an obsession with light and how it behaves on the surface of a watch. Since building his own brand, Ming Thein has continued to nurture this special relationship between timekeeping and imagery, so much so that it has become part of the brand’s unique story. Every curve of a flared lug or inverted lume track on a dial is designed to catch, bend, and manipulate light – a philosophy that has translated into a string of global successes, including the "revelation" of the 17.06 Copper and the 2024 GPHG-winning 37.09 Bluefin. [toc-section heading="The Brainstorm That Gave MING Its Lift-Off"] Early concept sketch Plenty of business ideas have probably been dreamt up while racking up air miles, but the origins of MING were perhaps among the most unexpected. During a return flight from a 2014 watch fair, cruising 30,000 feet above the gr...
Monochrome
Hands-on - Impressions about the Tudor Ranger 36mm, Including the new Dune White Dial
If you’ve been reading MONOCHROME for some time now, you might know that I have a very strong connection with the Rolex Explorer 36mm, in particular the 1990s reference 14270. Not only is it a watch that I consider to be the perfect example of what a yougntimer is, but it’s also, in my books, […]
Hodinkee
Business News: A Push For More High Horology At Germany’s Top Jewelry Fair
One of Europe's largest jewelry shows, Inhorgenta is again a hub for watch brands seeking fresh clientele.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Meteorite, a New Dial for a Compact Diver
Since its debut in 2023, Vulcain’s Skindiver Nautique has quickly moved from a niche revival piece to a regular part of the brand’s present-day catalogue. These watches draw inspiration from Vulcain’s 1960s skin-diving models. Back then, diving as a hobby was gaining popularity, and compact, practical dive watches like the Nautique felt at home both in and […]
Fratello
Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery
Vintage Seiko chronographs have a way of pulling you in. They’re mechanically ambitious, unapologetically ’70s, and just rough enough around the edges to feel honest. Spend enough time around references powered by the 6138 and 6139 calibers, and you’ll understand why so many collectors fall hard for them. My journey started in 2019 while stationed […] Visit Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - A Celestial Dial for the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue”
Glashütte Original released its Serenade Luna in 2024, featuring moon phase indications. Unlike the Panomatic Luna, which is essentially a scaled-down adaptation of the men’s PanomaticLunar with its off-centred dial and Panorama date window, the Serenade Luna was conceived from the start as a women’s watch with a petite 32.5mm diameter, a sprinkling of diamonds and […]
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked
The Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm is an appealing new variant of a watch that’s already in short supply, famous as much for its scarcity as its octagonal bezel. Seen previously in white gold, the Jumbo Openworked returns at the top of its class with a case made from lightweight titanium and palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material that gives the bezel its almost ethereal mirror finish. The Jumbo Openworked is not a limited edition, but its undeniable appeal will make it hard to come by, even by Royal Oak standards. Ideal configuration The Royal Oak is one of the most sought-after watches in the industry, and one of the few collections that consistently trades at a premium to retail, according to WatchCharts. With its iconic Genta design, slim form factor, and high-end calibre, it’s easy to see why. That said, some configurations are more appealing than others, and this titanium and palladium version of the Jumbo Openworked ranks highly in the Royal Oak pantheon. It’s worth exploring why it works. Starting with the sizing. In 1972, the Royal Oak was broad and flat by industry standards, but the “Jumbo” moniker now feels misleading for a 39 mm watch. Ironically, the “Extra-Thin” designation also feels misleading for the opposite reason - 8.1 mm is plenty thin, but there are now so many thinner watches that the terminology feels out of date. Setting aside AP’s historical naming conventions, the Jumbo Openworked...
SJX Watches
A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026
Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...
Deployant
Racing Hearts: Six cool watches with a motoring theme
In this week's article, we activate our racing hearts with a series of fine and exciting timepieces that feature the motoring theme.
Fratello
Introducing: The Hanhart 417 Ti Desert Pilot Limited Editions
While Hanhart is known for its historically inspired pilot’s chronographs, today’s latest model takes its cues from a very different form of motor-powered conveyance. The 417 Ti Desert Pilot Limited Edition is rooted in desert rally racing. As we’ll see, though, this isn’t just a dial color variation. Plus, the watch is available in two […] Visit Introducing: The Hanhart 417 Ti Desert Pilot Limited Editions to read the full article.
Fratello
Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch?
When I first picked up the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta PAM01572, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. I’ve tried on a few Panerai watches over the years, most of them big, bold, uncompromising instruments that seem to occupy their own postcode on the wrist. This one was different the moment I lifted it from the […] Visit Is Panerai’s Purest Radiomir Its Most Versatile Modern Watch? to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Determining the Best Longines Watch - Subscriber Tournament
In this installment of our popular Watch Tournaments, we ask the audience to vote on their favorite watch from Longines. Models were narrowed down in a wide-ranging social media poll with viewers choosing their Top 20 models. From there the results were tallied to determine what models were voted for the most often and
Fratello
Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch?
There’s an aphorism among watch lovers that the right mechanical watch never truly belongs to you; rather, it is something you just look after for the next generation. But beneath the romantic surface of that line, there’s a cold, hard truth: durability is only half the equation. The other half, which determines whether a watch […] Visit Should Serviceability Be A Factor When Buying A Watch? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Come to Windup Dallas for the Watches, Stay for the Bulova Block Party & BBQ
The countdown to Windup Watch Fair Dallas is officially on, and we’re excited to spotlight one of the main events with our pals at Bulova, helping bring this year’s show to life. As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and the watch-curious alike, Windup is the best place to go hands-on with unique watches from around the world-and we’re thrilled to return to Dallas for the second year in a row. This year’s event takes place at the always lively Hickory Street Annex, a perfect setting for a weekend packed with watches, community, and a few surprises along the way. Not only are we expanding Windup Dallas to three full days this year, but we’re also introducing something new to the Windup experience. On Saturday evening, Bulova will host the Bulova Block Party & BBQ, taking place just outside the venue: The Bulova Block Party & BBQ Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 14: 4:30PM – 7PM Early registration is recommended Expect Texas-style BBQ and an outdoor bar with amazing food and beverages available for purchase, live music, and plenty of reasons to stick around after the show floor closes. Bulova will be showcasing collaborations that tap into different corners of American heritage-from the world of motorsports to the enduring style of the American West. Bulova, Shelby, and the Spirit of American Performance Bulova’s connection to racing runs deep. During the 1960s and ’70s, the brand served as...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 10 Most Important Vintage Digital Watches
Digital watches - at least, those of the electronic variety - have only been around for just over half a century at this point, which is a relatively brief moment in the totality of watch history. Nevertheless, they have exerted in that time an outsized influence on the technological and design evolution of the watch industry as well as on the overall culture. As the term “vintage” has been widely interpreted these days to describe any object more than 20 years old, here is our list of the 10 most important “vintage” digital watches (including a handful of worthy analog-digital models). And good news for fans of their retro style: many of them still live on in some form today. [toc-section heading="Breitling Emergency (1995)"] Introduced in 1995, the Breitling Emergency is literally a watch that has saved lives. The first watch with a built-in micro-transmitter that operated on an international air distress frequency, enabling a pilot to contact search-and-rescue teams after an emergency or crash landing. In 2015, after the original had racked up many notable exploits, Breitling launched the second-generation Emergency II, which added a dual-frequency personal locator beacon (PLB), that can both issue alerts as well as guide rescuers to the wearer’s location by accessing a network of satellites and ground receiving stations. The analog-digital display, powered by Breitling’s thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement, offers an array of indicators including 1...
Worn & Wound
The Seiko SNA414 Gold Flightmaster: A Gilded Take on an Enthusiast Classic
The Seiko SNA411 has been an icon of the watch industry for years. Frequently appearing on “Best Affordable Watches” lists, it’s no wonder Seiko’s other two variants would eventually catch the eye of collectors as well. The SN413 is far and away the most sought-after variant of the Flightmaster formula, but what about the often overlooked SNA414? I’ll be the first to admit that gold-tone watches are typically not in habitual rotation within my collection––aside from a few special pieces––but that doesn’t mean there’s not a lot to enjoy about this model. What makes the SNA414 a good candidate for your next acquisition? Let’s find out. The SNA414 History and Design Nailing down a definite release date for the SNA414 is difficult, but according to numerous blogs, press releases, and wristwatch websites, it appears this variant began production sometime between late 2007 and early 2008. I’m unsure whether all three variants of the lineup were released at the same time, but from sources consulted online, it appears they were at least announced and brought to market around the same time. I must note that the name “Flightmaster” may confuse a few collectors out there who may have seen another model of Seiko’s catalog nicknamed with the same moniker. In the 1990s, the first iteration of the Flightmaster was released with the 7T34 movement. The -6A09 variant is technically the first gold Flightmaster the brand produced, making the subject of this art...