Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Minerva Triple-Date Chronograph with Moonphase, an Omega Constellation with Cloisonné Dial, and a 1970s Certina Chronograph
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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Introducing – New Brand OraOrea Debuts with the Coriolis Pointer Date
OraOrea is a new independent brand founded by Zach Weiss, best known as co-founder of Worn & Wound and Windup Watch Fair. After years spent analysing, curating and discussing watches, Weiss now steps into product creation with a first model that reflects a collector’s eye for proportion and detail. The OraOrea Coriolis Pointer Date is […]
SJX Watches
Zach Weiss Launches OraOrea with the Coriolis Pointer Date
With the debut of Zach Starr Weiss’s OraOrea comes the introduction of the Coriolis Pointer Date. Having founded Worn & Wound in 2011 and the Windup Watch Fair in 2015, Mr Weiss brings an enthusiast’s eye and and insider’s perspective to his own brand. Initial thoughts An industrial designer before founding Worn & Wound, Brooklyn-based Zach Starr Weiss has put his experience to work with the launch of his own brand, OraOrea, which translates loosely as ‘golden hour.’ The debut model, the Coriolis Pointer Date, features its namesake complication alongside several clever and expensive details, including solid 18k gold hemispheres on the dial, and curved seconds and minutes hands. I got to see the watch ahead of its debut and the quality of the dial finishing is evident. The design is arguably a bit crowded - a time-only variant would help with that - but the three-dimensionality of the design helps keep things interesting. The case checks all the boxes for a go-anywhere, do-anything-style watch, with a 38.5 mm stainless steel case rated to 100 m, despite a standard push/pull crown. The robustness of the case may seem like overkill, but Mr Weiss rightly understands that there’s a segment of passionate collectors for whom 100 m is the bare minimum for a watch intended for daily wear. Intricate dial The dial is notable for its massive laser-cut and hand-polished index, which encircles the dial. This so-called ‘oscillating index’ features alternately spaced R...
Monochrome
First Look – Indie Brand Winnerl Presents its Second Act, the Heart Return
Reviving the legacy of an illustrious 19th-century Austrian watchmaker, Bernhard Zwinz has breathed new life into the name Winnerl. With this detail-obsessed watchmaker at the helm, each timepiece is meticulously and beautifully handcrafted, reflecting a deep commitment to artisanal watchmaking. Following the discreet success of its first release, the brand returns in 2026 with a second […]
Fratello
Maen And Nico Leonard Unveil The Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin
It’s been about a year since Maen and Nico Leonard released their first collaborative effort, the Jump Hour. It is safe to say that the Swedish brand with Dutch roots and the Belfast-based Dutch YouTuber timed that release perfectly. It debuted right before Watches and Wonders, where we saw a full parade of jump-hour watches. […] Visit Maen And Nico Leonard Unveil The Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Accessible Earthen Summit Nightfall & Moonglow, A Celestial Evolution in Ceramic
Founded in 2025 in Hong Kong, Earthen Company entered the watchmaking scene, offering a combination of modern materials, vintage-inspired proportions, and accessible pricing. Its inaugural alpine-spirited Summit collection of compact ceramic field watches with oversized crowns and clean, legible dials had a strong visual identity, tools designed for outdoor use. Now, with the new Nightfall […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin
People are always asking us, “Why are watch reviews always so positive?” It’s a fair question, and definitely a nicer way of saying what I think is actually underneath it, which is “Are you a shill?” While I certainly wouldn’t dream of speaking for any website other than this one, I can say that at Worn & Wound, we review watches that are of interest to us, that we’re likely pre-disposed to liking. Positive reviews come from our enthusiasm not just for a specific watch, but for watches in general. We want to see what’s best in the hobby, and seek to elevate brands and watches that we think are doing interesting work, and that our readers will find of interest. I’d argue that’s not the posture of the average anonymous Instagram commenter, who might be more inclined to tear something down than lift it up. But sometimes a watch comes across our desk from a brand we like that just doesn’t work, or that seemed more interesting in renders sent via email or DM than in the metal. And that brings us to the Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin, a watch that on its surface seems like something that I should be really into, but leaves me a little cold when I hold it in hand and strap it on my wrist. I’ll be upfront here and say at the outset that this is not a bad watch, objectively speaking. It’s not a failure in execution, or the product of shoddy workmanship. I think Maen probably wound up exactly where they wanted to be with the Grand Tonneau, and like other...
Monochrome
First Look – A Champagne Dial for the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph
Louis Moinet’s 1816 Compteur de Tierces, or “thirds counter”, was originally designed to measure the speed of moving stars. Endowed with a start, stop and reset function and a balance wheel beating at an impressive high frequency of 30Hz or 216,000 vibrations per hour, his novel stopwatch could time events to the 60th of a […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon
Let me introduce you to Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana, founders of the new watch brand Desder. Italian-born Coppoletta, who’s based in London, is best known as a tattoo artist, designer, and art director. He founded the influential London studio The Family Business in 2003, which became a global reference point for high-end tattooing, before […] Visit Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Formex Reef 39.5 Forged Carbon, a new Look for the Brand’s Compact Diver
Founded in Biel/Bienne and revitalised in 2016 under the leadership of Raphaël Granito, Formex is appreciated for its engineering-driven watchmaking, ergonomic case design and modularity. Known at first for its motorsport roots and patented case suspension systems, the brand has gradually defined its identity with the Essence and Reef collections, offering well-executed watches with interesting […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026
Another Friday, another list. This week, we close out our series of lists focused on Rolex alternatives, but we have saved the best for last. The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. It’s one of those icons that carved out its unique space in the watch landscape and seems practically impossible to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud, Inverted: The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1
Ferdinand Berthoud (FB), Chopard’s haut de gamme sub-brand, introduces its first flying tourbillon just weeks before Watches & Wonders. The Mesure du Temps 1787 Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 is exceptional in both quality and price, presenting almost everything of interest on the dial side - chain and fusee included - along with hacking and zero-reset seconds. The dial-side spectacle will be the calling card of the new Mesure du Temps 1787 collection. Initial thoughts The revival of long-dead masters’ names to sell unrelated watches is a practice that invites scepticism - and often deserves it. The Ferdinand Berthoud brand, however, is a different matter. There is nothing cynical about it, and one suspects the man himself wouldn’t mind being associated with some of the finest mechanical watches being made today - in his home town, no less. A different name on the dial, Scheufele perhaps, might still feel more authentic, but that’s a minor quibble with what is otherwise an overwhelmingly high quality watch. The latest take on the brand’s chronometer-inspired formula adds one of my favourite features: a zero-reset seconds hand. Though I prefer the designs of the brand’s past projects, the FB 2TV.1 suggests the team at FB understands what the market wants, and the movement-as-a-dial aesthetic is hot right now. The flying tourbillon is new for the brand, in both technique and aesthetics. Until now the brand’s massive revolving regulators were secreted away on the...
Fratello
Inside WRK: The Road To The ACF-03
Independent watchmaking is rarely neat. From the outside, it can sometimes look that way. A launch lands, the renders look polished, the photography is sharp, and everything appears to have gone exactly as planned. In reality, it rarely works that neatly. That’s part of what makes it so interesting, and it’s also one of the […] Visit Inside WRK: The Road To The ACF-03 to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The 2026 Minerva Collection, now a Stand-Alone Brand, Unveiling the new Crownless
Since its acquisition by the Richemont Group in 2006, historic and highly revered brand Minerva has lived under the control of Montblanc, its watches bearing double-signed dials. 20 years later, under the direction of Laurent Lecamp, Global Managing Director for both Montblanc and Minerva, the venerable hidden gem of haute horology emancipates again and now becomes […]
Worn & Wound
Titanium and Fresh Colorways Collide as Straum Expands Its Jan Mayen Arctic Collection with a New Limited Edition Capsule and Permanent Pieces
Today, two of Straum’s core concepts come alive in a new twist on the Jan Mayen Arctic collection, now in titanium for the first time in addition to stainless steel. The four original colors, in both titanium and stainless steel, now become part of the brand’s permanent catalog. Plus, there’s the debut of an entirely new dial colorway. Last year, we saw the expansion of the brand’s offerings with the classic Jan Mayen design rendered in lightweight titanium as well as the unveiling of four thoughtful and stunning Arctic dials. By now, you probably well know I’m a sucker for a mesmerizing dial design, especially one with a story and deeper meaning behind it. The brand’s limited edition capsules of Arctic dials tick all those boxes. The inspiration draws from Straum’s Norwegian roots with a subtle and abstract interpretation of the country’s natural beauty through intentional use of texture and color to elicit the feeling of the landscape rather than something too literal. We’ve previously seen four editions, each handsome in their own right: one reflecting the bold hues of the Aurora sky; one called Alpine Glow, fading from the crisp blue frost of the mountains fading to a light pink sunset; Meltwater Teal, which quite literally mimics a waterfall cascading down the dial thanks to the perfect execution of ombre white to teal; and lastly, the most understated among the bunch called Tundra Brown with a bronze tone. In addition to a new metal – swapping tit...
Quill & Pad
New Release: Lab Series 1 by Holthinrichs Watches skilfully transports us into a retrofuturistic reality
Today, I present two new models that caught my attention: the automatic Lab Series 1.S, which offers the rare combination of automatic winding and small seconds, and the Lab Series 1.GMT, featuring a straightforward second time zone function with a central 24-hour GMT hand. The post New Release: Lab Series 1 by Holthinrichs Watches skilfully transports us into a retrofuturistic reality appeared first on Quill & Pad.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Porsche Design's New Watch Manufacture Creates A New All-Titanium Chronograph 1
A major investment in the Porsche brand's watch division includes a new Chronograph 1 to mark the opening of a new manufacture in Switzerland.
Monochrome
First Look – The Albishorn Thundergraph Khumbu, an Imaginary Vintage Chronograph for Alpine Exploration
Albishorn is one of these intriguing newcomers on the independent scene. The brand operates under the concept of “Imaginary Vintage“, designing watches that were never made but could have been. Following the Maxigraph and Type 10 in 2024, both explained by plausible historical scenarios, the 2025 Thundergraph was (or could have been) made for alpine […]
SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Unveils the ThinKing Mystery
Konstantin Chaykin unveils the ultimate version of his ultra-thin opus, the ThinKing Mystery. A 12-piece limited edition that refines the ideas from his original prototype, the ThinKing has reached maturity. The fact that Mr Chaykin achieved this without the help of big-budget research and developments facilities is a testament to the Moscow-based watchmaker’s technical prowess. The thoughtful process of updating the ThinKing platform prior to commercialisation speaks highly of his engineering rigour. Initial thoughts We covered the first ThinKing prototype when it launched two years ago in the fall of 2024. The timepiece remains to this day the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, measuring just 1.65 mm from top to case back. A staggering 1.65 mm thickness. The ThinKing implemented a number of interesting mechanical choices and made some compromises to fit an entire timekeeper to fit in a meagre 1.65 mm-thick space. Like other ultra-thin record-chasers, the case doubles as the movement mainplate, making the ThinKing, in a sense, a raw movement bound to a strap. To reduce the height of the oscillator, its components were spread out horizontally. The barrel was rethought to incorporate a click wheel inside the mainspring arbour, shaving precious height. The first prototype was cheating a little too, since it could not be set or wound without a separate docking module called the Palanking. Compared to other ultra-thin watches, which require (at most) a pen-like winding and...
Fratello
Introducing: The 1.65mm-Thin Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery - Is It The Slimmest Mechanical Watch In The World?
Do you remember the ThinKing, the ultra-thin, in-house, one-of-a-kind watch with a mere 1.65mm profile that surprised everybody in 2024? Piaget and Bvlgari were locked in battle to come up with the world’s thinnest mechanical watch, Richard Mille joined the fight, and then, out of the blue, Konstantin Chaykin presented the ThinKing. The watch never […] Visit Introducing: The 1.65mm-Thin Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery - Is It The Slimmest Mechanical Watch In The World? to read the full article.
Fratello
The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission
This month began with the exciting launch of Artemis II on April 1st, 2026, at 22:35:12 (UTC). I stayed up to watch the launch (00:35 here) and witness this next chapter in NASA’s Moon exploration. The space-qualified watches It’s the first human-crewed lunar voyage since 1972. During that mission, all astronauts wore the Omega Speedmaster […] Visit The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Stéphane Pierre Launches Indie Brand and his First watch, L’Impétrant
There’s a new indie brand in town… Stéphane Pierre enters the independent watchmaking scene with a strong personal story and vision. Based in Annecy and trained as a micro-mechanical engineer, he brings a background shaped by traditional watchmaking and the demanding environment of the naval and military sector, as he spent several years in the […]
SJX Watches
Stéphane Pierre’s Inaugural L’Impétrant is Bi-Retrograde
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Dawn Blue Credor Locomotive GCCR995
Two years ago, Credor, the higher-end and classic side of the Seiko Watch Corporation, unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept. This watch, once designed by no other than Gerald Genta, was first presented in 1979, before coming back in a modernised and limited version for the brand’s 50th anniversary in 2024. […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Third Chapter, the Accessible MUNE Series
A fairly new brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches,” Kiwame Tokyo has made quite some noise with its first two releases, the Kurotsuki and Usuki models as its inaugural pieces, and the IWAO Field series at the end of last year. Mixing vintage Calatrava elements, […]
Worn & Wound
Heinrich Continues to Expand their Radiance Line with the “Wave”
Heinrich, the German brand that as of late has specialized in elaborate, machine finished dials in an array of bright colors (all set inside impeccably machined and finished cases) has just released the latest in their ongoing Radiance collection. The Guilloche Wave follows the Guilloche Swirl and the original Radiance, and continues to carve out the brand’s dress watch catalog. This is a somewhat unlikely turn for Heinrich, a brand that prior to the Radiance was primarily known for their modern tool watches. It’s been interesting to see how they’ve adapted easily to current trends for classical finishing with a contemporary twist, and creative use of materials, both design tenets that have always been readily observable under the surface at Heinrich, but seem to have found a moment in these last few years. If you’re familiar with recent versions of the Radiance, the new Guilloche Wave will not exactly appear groundbreaking, but it does offer a new option for enthusiasts who either missed out on prior editions or simply want a dial with a more traditional guilloche execution. The Guilloche Wave has, you guessed it, a wave-like guilloche pattern emanating from the dial’s center. It’s interrupted by a lightly textured and rather small subsidiary seconds register at 6:00, and ends at a chapter ring surrounding the dial’s perimeter. The hour markers on these watches are not discussed enough – they’re applied and have a distinctive series of vertical lines r...
SJX Watches
Seiko’s Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon is Ultra-Thin and Engraved
Exhibiting at Watches & Wonders in Geneva for the first time, Seiko’s high-end marque Credor is rolling out the Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved (ref. GBCF997). While the latest Credor is only a cosmetic variation of an existing model, but the latest Goldfeather Tourbillon is nonetheless a top-of-the-line model in both technical and decorative terms: the ultra-slim movement features a tourbillon, while the dial and movement are hand engraved. The hand-engraved cal. 6850 Initial thoughts Though this year’s Goldfeather Tourbillon is identical to last year’s edition save for decor, it looks strikingly different, underlining the different decorative techniques employed. While last year’s model was ornate and figurative, the latest version is clean and almost monochromatic. The lack of colour belies the complexity of the dial decoration. The entire dial is engraved, right down to the radial graining. Instead of conventional brushing, the radial pattern is achieved with a manual engraving technique. The stylistic different continues onto the movement, which is equally finely decorated, and also impressively slim. While the strength of the artisanal execution and ultra-thin watchmaking are obvious, the Goldfeather Tourbillon is fundamentally a facelift to a movement that’s been around for a long time. To go as far as its sister brand Grand Seiko, Credor would have to do something more novel. Fine lines The Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved is self descriptive: it i...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New and Cheeky Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic
Nivada Grenchen has always seemed like a brand that embraces the fun side of life, and its latest release, the Antarctic Erotic, is proof of that. In watchmaking, erotic or animated scenes have existed for centuries, often hidden away and revealed only on demand. Nivada uses this heritage with a lighter, more contemporary tone without […]
SJX Watches
Cleguer Debuts with Proprietary ‘Innate’ Escapement
In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...
Monochrome
First Look – Cleguer Horology Launches with the Inspiration One Souscription and a new “Innate” Escapement Geometry
Discovering new independent watchmaking talents is a rare pleasure – especially when it’s as compelling as the debut of Mathieu Cleguer’s brand. With his first creation, this watchmaking engineer introduces a singular vision where aesthetic purity meets technicality. At first glance, the Inspiration One captivates with its clean, balanced design elevated by superb finishing and […]