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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Aventi Golden Tiger WatchAdvice
Nov 11, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Aventi Golden Tiger

The Aventi Golden Tiger is a watch that will definitely turn heads and have people stop you to ask, “What are you wearing?” What We Love Hand-engraved Sapphire and 24K Tiger head!Sapphire caseWrist presence What We Don’t The buckle doesn’t sit flush with the strapIt takes a while to wear the strap inIt will be large for some people Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Aventi is a brand that has grown from strength to strength over the past few years. Aventi has gone from its small beginnings here in Australia to now being a fully-fledged Swiss manufacturer, using some of the best watchmakers and techniques in the business with a unique and disruptive business model. The Aventi Goolden Tiger is a piece that needs to be seen up close and personal to appreciate it fully. The brand has partnered with a range of watchmakers and component producers, some of the best in the industry, and utilises their on-demand system for their higher-end pieces, ensuring the quality isn’t compromised and that each piece is finished to the highest standards. In addition, their Aventi GT-01S Calibre is a Swiss Made hand-wound Tourbillon movement with an accuracy of -4/+4 seconds per day, which is greater than COSC. Initial Thoughts Given Watch Advice’s founder, Chamath (@champsg), has the Aventi Wraith in Sapphite, and having worn in and played around with it many times, I was confident in what I was getting myself into with...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” 3510.20 Nov 10, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Pays Tribute Nov 10, 2023

Patek Philippe Pays Tribute to Philippe Stern with the Minute Repeater Alarm Ref. 1938P

To celebrate Philippe Stern’s 85th birthday, Patek Philippe has released the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P-001. The 30-piece limited edition is a minute repeater with a novel alarm function that chimes the programmed time, powered by a new calibre that will never be repeated. The watch is also a tribute in a literal sense: the fired enamel dial bears a monochromatic portrait of Philippe Stern, now the honorary president of Patek Philippe and the man who laid the foundations of the Geneva watchmaker’s present-day success. Initial thoughts This watch was long anticipated since it was first teased for Only Watch 2023, where it was announced as a unique piece made for the charity auction followed by a limited edition release. Now we have the specifics of the watch and it is impressive in technique, even if the dial is surprising at first sight. Evocative of the iconic black-and-white portrait of Francis Ford-Coppola’s 1972 film The Godfather, portrait of Mr Stern initially feels out of place in such a classical watch. But then it is perhaps not as apparent on a wrist when reading the time, and more importantly, considering Mr Stern’s achievements he deserves an overwhelmingly prominent place on a watch. It is a certainty that the buyers of the 30 watches will be clients personally acquainted with Mr Stern – word has it that all were allocated by Geneva prior to launch – and I imagine all of them would be happy to concede part of the dial to him. With four new pa...

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Worn & Wound
Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Nov 10, 2023

[VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M

Oris has a seriously capable modern diver on their hands with the Aquis. What’s more, they’ve created an original design that’s easily associated with the brand in the process. Oris have dabbled into more niche diver territory with things like the Aquis Depth Gauge, but never into extreme realms. Until now, that is. This year, Oris has upgraded the Aquis Pro from a 1000M diver, to a 4000M diver. The change doesn’t make much practical difference for most of us, but adds a heap of bragging rights to the Aquis name as it joins some elite company in the world of ultra-deep divers. The new Aquis Pro is a statement from Oris, and places the watch within a unique niche of the dive acth genre in the process.  Ultra deep dive watches are a strange breed. Not only are they tricky to design and build, they’re also quite hard to pressure test properly without highly specialized equipment. We’ve seen brands go as far as building their own apparatus to validate depth ratings, particularly as they go beyond 3,000 meters, or 10,000 feet. In the case of the deepest divers, like the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge, which both go well beyond 10,000 meters, or 30,000 feet, pressure testing is rigorous and complex, and can even involve real world validation strapped to the exterior of vessels traveling to the depths of the sea. $6200 [VIDEO] Hands-On With the Extreme Oris Aquis Pro 4000M Case Titanium Movement Oris caliber 400 Dial Blue wave degrade L...

The new Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire brings the manufacture’s first central flying tourbillon to market Time+Tide
Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Nov 10, 2023

The new Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire brings the manufacture’s first central flying tourbillon to market

Hublot introduces the brand's first-ever series-production central tourbillon in classic Takashi Murakami style.The post The new Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire brings the manufacture’s first central flying tourbillon to market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 10, 2023

Editorial: Winners at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) announced its 2023 winners last night in a ceremony in its traditional venue, the theatre in the Fairmont hotel. Compared to 2022, most of the jury members for the year were new faces, including Anish Bhatt of Watchanish and Ben Clymer of Hodinkee. Presided over by author Nick Foulkes, the jury assembled a list of winners that included several surprises. Some watches rightly triumphed in competitive categories, but in others the prizes felt like they were awarded for lack of alternatives. In nearly all categories, however, the winners had merit, with the only exception being the Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton that did not win the Mechanical Clock category. The biggest winner of the evening was expected and deserving, going to Audemars Piguet for the Code 11.59 Universelle grand complication. While not the prettiest watch, the Universelle is certainly the most technically impressive watch of the year and deserves the Aiguille d’Or, or “Golden Hand”, the top prize of the event, which was claimed by the brand’s outgoing chief executive, Francois-Henry Bennahmias (pictured above). Not only is the Universelle exceptionally complicated, it approaches several complications in an ingenious manner. Other widely foreseen winners were Petermann Bédat with its 2941 split-seconds in the Chronograph category. Despite my criticism of some aspects of the movement construction, the rattrapante chronograph is undoubte...

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer Worn & Wound
Nov 9, 2023

[VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer

Vortic Watch Company has been a mainstay of the Windup Watch Fair since its earliest days. We had the opportunity to catch up with the CEO of Vortic, R.T. Custer, at the fair. He gives us something we’ve been craving-a truly in-depth explainer of their why and their how-with some amazing examples along the way. Vortic is a unique organization, hell-bent on bringing watchmaking back to the United States, but with a modern and innovative twist. If you’ve ever wondered what Vortic is all about, you now have the definitive info at your fingertips. This video breakdown their process step-by-step and provides before and after glimpse of how they “preserve American history one watch at a time.” If you want to learn even more about the Vortic Watch Company after watching this explainer or would like to start the process of ordering your own custom pocket watch conversion, please visit vorticwatches.com. The post [VIDEO] An In-depth Look at the Vortic Watch Company with R.T. Custer appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version Worn & Wound
Nomos Issues Nov 9, 2023

Nomos Issues the Classic Tangente in a Limited Gold Version

In their ongoing “175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” series, Nomos has finally unveiled a watch that we’re frankly surprised has never existed before, but makes perfect sense right now. The Tangente Rose Gold Neomatik is a precious metal limited edition version of what is indisputably the brand’s most iconic design. In any kind of celebratory context, you’d expect the Tangente to play a lead role, and now, after limited versions of the Orion and Ludwig, the Tangente gets its own luxurious turn.  The 175 Years campaign has actually been ongoing since 2020, when a trio of stainless steel Lambdas were introduced. That release was notable because the Lambda had always been available only in solid gold, so a steel version was of particular interest to Nomos collectors who prize the brand’s watches for their great value. This release, in a way, is the inverse of the Lambda limited editions, with a model that is very much associated with stainless steel being introduced in gold. It makes a lot of sense for the Tangente, often cited as the most directly Bauhaus inspired watch in the Nomos catalog, to get this kind of treatment. In steel the straight lugs matched with the circular case appear almost severe, but the whole package has a warmer and more inviting sensibility in rose gold. It still looks delicate and impossibly precise, now just with a notably more luxe feel.  The dial for this version is inspired by early watches made in Glashütte, and beyond tying this r...

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Nov 9, 2023

The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968

Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...