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Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition Nov 19, 2024

Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition

Since Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly founded Collective Horology in 2018, the company has become known as one of the leading US-based retailers of watches from independent brands. But Collective has also collaborated with several brands on an impressive number of limited editions. For its tenth collaborative effort, Collective teamed up with Zenith again for […] Visit Introducing: The Monochromatic Zenith Defy Skyline C.X Edition to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying Fratello
Nov 19, 2024

Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying

After a two-week hiatus, Fratello On Air returns with an episode about how we research watches before buying. This is a listener suggestion that likely comes from the southern USA. We know this because the message contained the word “y’all.” Well, giddyup because it’s time to discuss our top tips. For our listeners, the watch […] Visit Fratello On Air: How We Research Watches Before Buying to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II Nov 19, 2024

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms

Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...

Video – A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Rekindling Nov 18, 2024

Video – A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit

The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]

Maen and IFL Collaborate on a Graffiti Inspired Manhattan Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Citizen Seiko Tissot Nov 18, 2024

Maen and IFL Collaborate on a Graffiti Inspired Manhattan Limited Edition

Maen’s Manhattan has proven to be a watch that works particularly well as a blank canvas of sorts. We’ve seen a number of limited editions of Maen’s integrated bracelet sports watch (including our own) and each finds new ways to present the piece’s central idea of a 70s inspired, elegant sports watch. Maen seems to enjoy riffing on the name of the watch – their collaborations with seconde/seconde/ are both visual puns of sorts that play on our reactions to the word “Manhattan,” and their latest takes that approach to another level entirely. Now, working custom dial specialists IFL Watches, they’ve developed a tribute to New York City culture that it feels like the brand has been building to since the collection was introduced.  IFL Watches, for those unfamiliar, specializes in custom, handpainted watches, taking familiar references and personalizing them to varying degrees. They make a variety of limited editions and one-offs, and also offer bespoke services, and include popular enthusiast focused pieces from brands like Citizen, Seiko, Tissot, and more. There’s an enormous variety in the style of IFL’s handpainted work, with some designs being incredibly intricate, and others more minimal. Some are completely abstract. For their crack at the Manhattan, we see IFL working in a style inspired by the city itself: graffiti.  Graffiti, of course, is not unique to New York, but nevertheless feels like an appropriate medium for the Manhattan. The dial featu...

Introducing – The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition Monochrome
Nov 18, 2024

Introducing – The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition

Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds Nov 18, 2024

Christopher Ward Adds a 37mm C1 Moonphase

It’s getting close to the end of the year, and many of us are naturally in a reflective mood. I’d like to think I speak for most watch writers when I say that for us, it’s all about looking back at the almost incalculable number of watches we saw over the course of the year, and the reviews they spawned. Considering all the watches I got to look at this year, there are a handful that really stand out, and the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase is easily one of them. We talk about Christopher Ward a lot around here because they continue to surprise us, expanding the very definition of what a “Christopher Ward” can be, and the C1 Moonphase is one of my favorite examples of that. It’s truly an art piece – made of slabs of aventurine with no markers to speak of and accented with giant, glowing moons in constant rotation. In a quiet way, it’s every bit as adventurous as the Bel Canto or Twelve X. If there was one issue with it, though, it was the size. At just over 40mm, it was perhaps a little big for some who expect a watch like this to be more discreet.  If that describes you, you’re in luck, as Christopher Ward has just announced a new version of the C1 Moonphase in a more versatile 37mm size. If you envision a watch like this as an accent to a suit (maybe even a tuxedo) or you simply have smaller wrists or prefer a more traditional dress watch size, this new version should have a ton of appeal.  Personally, I stand by my original review, where I wrote that a...

The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex Fratello
Cartier Vacheron Nov 18, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex

Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed smaller, simpler watches from the ’40s and ’50s. This change in my collecting course has been fun and relatively inexpensive. Does that mean I’ve given up on later vintage and more modern pieces? Absolutely not, but as you’ll see with the majority of today’s pre-owned and vintage favorites, the […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Mike’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Cartier, Vacheron, And Rolex to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons Fratello
Nov 18, 2024

Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons

BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.

Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - ­­A New And Improved Breed Fratello
Studio Underd0g Nov 18, 2024

Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - ­­A New And Improved Breed

Do you want to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Sure, that’s no problem, but you’ll need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. That’s something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer about possibly supplying you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible […] Visit Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - ­­A New And Improved Breed to read the full article.

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift SJX Watches
Voutilainen Nov 18, 2024

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift

Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back.  While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...

Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I SJX Watches
Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Nov 18, 2024

Chronicles of Precision: The Quest for Equation of Time Part I

Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...

Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches Fratello
Breitling purchased Universal Genève Nov 17, 2024

Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches

In December 2023, Breitling purchased Universal Genève and announced that the brand would return to the marketplace in 2026. Since then, speculation about the models and movements has run rampant. We still don’t have any information to share. Still, Universal Genève has announced three one-off Polerouter watches that celebrate the 70th anniversary of the SAS […] Visit Universal Genève Returns With Three One-Off SAS Polerouter Watches to read the full article.

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit Worn & Wound
Nov 17, 2024

A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available to consult with you and answer any questions. In addition, all these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post A Rare Full Analog Model, New Attainable GMTs, and Elevated Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 Fratello
Rolex Submariner Ref 5508 You Nov 17, 2024

Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508

You know what they say: “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain will lift on your enamored illusions, and you will come out sadder and wiser, maybe even cynical.” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in doing a hands-on with a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was apprehensive. […] Visit Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Nov 17, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT

Welcome back to Sunday Morning Showdown, your steady diet of weekly watch duels. This time, Jorg and Mike battle it out with a pair of vintage-inspired GMTs. But which does it best? Will it be the impressive Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT that came out earlier this year during Watches and Wonders? Or will the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Laventure Transatlantique II GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection Monochrome
Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection Nov 16, 2024

Introducing – The New Bremont Supermarine 300m GMT Collection

Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility.  At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Future of Mystery Ranch, a Trio of New Polerouters, and Doxa’s New Cufflinks Worn & Wound
Doxa s New Cufflinks “Watches Nov 16, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Future of Mystery Ranch, a Trio of New Polerouters, and Doxa’s New Cufflinks

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Return of the Universal Geneve Polerouter Things are stirring at Universal Geneve. Just a few weeks ago in this very column, we brought you news of the reformed brand’s exhaustive new website, which features a ton of info on UG’s history, and seems purpose built to be a home for the new collections when they arrive sometime in the next year or so, give or take. This week, another new development: the introduction of three apparent one-off versions of the classic Polerouter. As reported in Revolution and elsewhere, the release marks the 70th anniversary of the first SAS polar flight (for which the collection is named) and features a trio of meticulously recreated Polerouters. Unfortunately, these are not meant for the public at large – a stainless steel version with gilt accents and a gorgeous red gold edition with a black dial are both going straight to the UG archives. A white gold version with a blue dial and matching white gold bracelet is set to be auctioned next year at Phillips, with proceeds going toward Geneva’s CFP Arts school, which focuses on teaching students ...

Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT As Nov 16, 2024

Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT

As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.

Highlights: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch Nov 16, 2024

Highlights: Pocket Watches and Clocks at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...