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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302 Worn & Wound
Bremont s Refreshes Oct 31, 2023

Bremont’s Refreshes the Supermarine S302

Bremont is launching a new generation of Supermarines with not one, not two, but three configurations. The headliner is a special edition created in partnership with freedivers and conservationists Ocean Ramsey and Juan Oliphant, while the other two are regular production models with new color schemes and materials. The Supermarine line has been a mainstay for Bremont, and this infusion of models looks to take it to the next level. Let’s get the specs out of the way: all three new references are 40 mm wide, 49 mm long, and 13 mm thick. Lug widths are a friendly 20 mm, and the cases are made of scratch resistant DLC treated stainless steel. Unidirectional ceramic bezels (more on that later) surround four-handed dials with dates at 3. A modified caliber BE-932AV provides 50 hours of power reserve, and water resistance is rated at 300 meters. All the Supermarines are Chronometer rated to the ISO 3159 standard. First up, the Supermarine Ocean. Limited to 400 pieces, this model is designed with respect to Ocean and Juan’s work with sharks and other endangered sea creatures. The bezel, dial, and integrated rubber strap are appropriately called “Thresher Grey,” and proceeds from each sale will benefit the “Save the Turtles International” charity. Aesthetically, the gray and beige tones work well with the orange text on the dial, rehaut, and GMT hand. Note that, like the S302 JET, the 24-hour bezel on the Supermarine Ocean is monochromatic. The watch can be configured ...

The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap Time+Tide
Certina DS Super PH1000M dives Oct 31, 2023

The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap

As one of Switzerland’s most underrated brands, it’s great to get reminders of Certina’s place in watchmaking history. By the 1970s dive watches had begun to reach their peak of popularity which still lasts today, and Certina had established their DS or ‘double security’ range which emphasised both water and shock resistance. The DS-2 SuperPH … ContinuedThe post The Certina DS Super PH1000M dives deep for cheap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Livens Up the Ladies’ Classique Tourbillon 3358 SJX Watches
Breguet Livens Up Oct 31, 2023

Breguet Livens Up the Ladies’ Classique Tourbillon 3358

Having recently redesigned its flagship perpetual calendar and minute repeater, Breguet now turns to its compact tourbillon for ladies. Moving away from Breguet’s traditional, formal style, the Classique Tourbillon 3358 is available in two variants, including the ref. 3358BB with a blue mother-of-pearl dial with diamond stars. Initial thoughts By doing away with the usual silvered guilloche dial, the new pair of tourbillons bring a new look to a familiar watch. Although the two watches are quite different from past Breguet tourbillons, they are still recognisable as Breguet thanks to elements like the pomme hands and fluted case band. The white gold ref. 3358BB is definitely the more striking of the two. The blue mother of pearl dial set with diamond stars is usually whimsical for Breguet, but nonetheless works well with the more traditional design elements. The ref. 3358 with a blue mother-of-pearl dial The Classique Tourbillon 3358 is a woman’s watch, but the design elements employed here could be transplanted into a men’s tourbillon wristwatch quite successfully, though it is not like Breguet to do something like that.  Though pricier than past ladies’ tourbillons, the ref. 3358 is arguably more interesting and attractive, particularly for someone who wants something much less formal and traditional. The ref. 3358 with a diamond-set dial Stars and diamonds Already in the catalogue for several years, the ref. 3358 in its earlier incarnations looked more like ...

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80 Worn & Wound
Certina Enters Oct 30, 2023

Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80

The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX.  The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...

The UniDesign Model One shows what microbrands are for Time+Tide
Oct 30, 2023

The UniDesign Model One shows what microbrands are for

Microbrands didn’t just come about because Kickstarter made fundraising accessible and non-European manufacturing improved in quality – they were also a product of necessity. As luxury watch prices went up and collectors craved unique looks, microbrands were there to fill the hole. Now there are hundreds of them, but UniDesign Watch Co. is one of … ContinuedThe post The UniDesign Model One shows what microbrands are for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Storage Solutions From the Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Oct 29, 2023

Watch Storage Solutions From the Windup Watch Shop

As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. As collectors and enthusiasts, we know the world of wristwatches reaches far beyond the watches themselves. In fact, accessorizing is one of the best ways to expand and deepen our appreciation for what we have. One of the most fun (and important) considerations is how we store and keep our watches. When traveling, consider a right-sized watch roll that fits the right amount while keeping them secure and protected on the go. At home, a solid roll, box, or case can provide a safe and elegant storage solution. Whatever your need is, we’ve got it all in the Windup Watch Shop; read on to find out. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points towards rewards with every purchase. The post Watch Storage Solutions From the Win...

Which watch trends survived the pandemic? Time+Tide
Oct 29, 2023

Which watch trends survived the pandemic?

The effects of the coronavirus pandemic were obviously widespread, but the wristwatch industry didn’t suffer nearly as much as was predicted. Some companies even managed to do better in lockdown, as watch enthusiasts had nothing else to do but browse online and shop. There was a cultural shift certainly, but that also led to a … ContinuedThe post Which watch trends survived the pandemic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 27, 2023

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made

If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light.  The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost.  With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...

Hands-On: Forty-Eight Hours with the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Ceramic Carbon Beige Camo Worn & Wound
Hublot Spirit Oct 27, 2023

Hands-On: Forty-Eight Hours with the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Ceramic Carbon Beige Camo

If you’ve listened to the podcast, follow me on Instagram, read what I write here on the website, or even have just had a five minute conversation with me about something innocuous, like who makes the best fast food cheeseburger, there’s a good chance you already know that I’ve kind of become obsessed with Hublot. I try not to waste an opportunity to be sure people know that to overlook this brand on the basis of their perception in the larger watch community is to be, frankly, a snob. I don’t much care for snobs, or gatekeeping, or for not looking beyond the surface of a particular watch or brand, so the widespread Hublot-hate that cuts across the watch community is a continued annoyance.  Because the thing is, Hublot is very good at doing what they set out to do, and judging them on the merits of fulfilling their intention seems like the only fair way to evaluate them, or any brand for that matter. Hublot, as it exists today, is essentially a brand full of statement pieces, but made with intention and a real focus on materials. The common gripes that they’re gaudy, or over-the-top, or even overpriced miss the point entirely. They are exactly what they are supposed to be. For a watch to be “gaudy” it would have to be so unintentionally, and as far as I’m concerned, a watch that’s over-the-top should wear that attribute as a strength.  As much I like and admire Hublot for being a weird mix between class clown, Rebel Without a Cause, and, I don’t know,...