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Annual Calendar

Patek's 1996 invention; handles 30- and 31-day months but needs one manual correction per year.
Four Watches & Wonders Alternatives In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2024

Four Watches & Wonders Alternatives In The Windup Watch Shop

Watches & Wonders, the watch industry’s biggest annual fair, came to a close earlier this week. As usual the anticipation was palpable, and the payoff was – well, it depends on who you ask. Whether or not you were impressed with the novelties, it’s no surprise that many of the new releases are, in reality, quite a long ways off from being available (if they ever are for regular folks). No matter; the following Chronicle highlights four watches that aren’t merely more affordable alternatives – they offer the same spirit and aesthetic and are available today right here in the Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop staff are happy to meet with you to answer any questions you have. Without further ado, here are this year’s Watches & Wonders alternatives! Watches & Wonders, the watch industry’s biggest annual fair, came to a close earlier this week. As usual the anticipation was palpable, and the payoff was – well, it depends on who you ask. Whether or not you were impressed with the novelties, it’s no surprise that many of the new releases are, in reality, quite a long ways off from being available (if they ever are for regular folks). No matter; the following Chronicle highlights four watches that aren’t merely more affordable alternatives – they offer the same spirit and aesthetic and are available today right here in the Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop staff are happy to meet with you to answer any questions you have. Without further ado, here...

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Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is the indisputable highlight of A. Lange & Söhne’s novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024. Pulling out its big guns at Watches & Wonders, Lange has treated its über-complex flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon cocktail to an exclusive Honeygold case and, for the cherry on top, a luminous […]

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Zenith Announces A Dive Watch Reissue: The Defy Revival A3648 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Announces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Announces A Dive Watch Reissue: The Defy Revival A3648

As you can probably tell, I'm slowly morphing into bit of a Zenith fanboy. Something about their recent releases just hits all the marks for me. From a titanium Chronomaster to a cool triple calendar-I'm here for all of it. But one thing that we brought up on the podcast once was the possibility of Zenith reissuing a dive watch. It seems crazy, considering we all probably think of high-tech chronos when we think of Zenith. But, it's here! And it's expensive. Let's take a quick look at the new Zenith Defy Revival A3648.

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In Depth: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Apr 9, 2024

In Depth: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin presents the world’s most complicated watch once again, surpassing its own record set by the Reference 57260 in 2015. Commissioned by the same American collector who owns the 57260, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication boasts many of the complications found in its predecessor but gains a world first, a perpetual Chinese calendar.  Made by the elite three-man team responsible for the 57260, the Berkley is a unique mechanical achievement with over two faces and over 60 complications. It joins a major collection of pocket watches that includes not only the 57260 but also the King Farouk I grand complication made by Vacheron Constantin for the Egyptian monarch in the 1930s. Initial thoughts Named after its owner, the Berkley cannot be compared to commonplace high horology. Instead it sits among the historical greats – which happen to all be pocket watches – like the the Breguet Marie Antoinette, Leroy 01, and of course the Patek Philippe duo of the the Graves Super Complication and Calibre 89. But now the Berkley trumps them all, having pushed the boundaries of possibility to sit at the zenith of watchmaking. The owner of the Berkley, insurance tycoon William R. Berkley, evidently has a keen appreciation of mechanical excellence. The watch is a masterpiece in the extreme art of micro engineering. But not only is it exceptionally complicated, it boasts a first in watchmaking – a perpetual Chinese calendar com...

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A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

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Anton Suhanov Unveils the Chronotope and the Inventive Su200.10 SJX Watches
Apr 5, 2024

Anton Suhanov Unveils the Chronotope and the Inventive Su200.10

One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner. Initial thoughts Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers. The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing. Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic. The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case. ...

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Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Mar 29, 2024

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...

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First Look – The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 7, 2024

First Look – The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

While there have been time-and-date and triple calendar versions since the mid-1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or ROO, has always been primarily known as a chronograph watch. It was actually designed as such when it launched in 1993. In modern days, non-chronograph ROO watches were mostly known as the Diver version, which was […]

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Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs Worn & Wound
Feb 29, 2024

Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs

Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year.  This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment.  Zach Weiss  I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...

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Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ref 5516 which was Feb 27, 2024

Insight: Perfecting the Perpetual from Quartz Crisis till Today

As we approach the leap day of February 29, the unofficial day of commemoration for perpetual calendar owners, it’s worth considering the technical advances in perpetual calendar movements of the past 20 years. The perpetual calendar is, and has always been, a staple of haute horlogerie. But for most of its history, the technology remained largely stagnant. It wasn’t until the beginning of the modern era, in the 1980s when Swiss watchmaking was regrouping after the Quartz Crisis, that a new generation of watchmakers revisited this complication in earnest. In particular, they sought to address fundamental weaknesses in the way traditional perpetual calendar designs switch from one date to the next. The quintessential perpetual calendar layout, here in the first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indicator, the Audemars Piguet ref. 5516, which was produced in the late 1950s One of the more recent – and most notable – efforts at reimagining the complication came from Stephen McDonnell, who developed the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual. According to Mr McDonnell, the traditional approach to the perpetual calendar was a flawed premise. “For decades in the Swiss watch industry, and even until the present day, it has been accepted and expected that [perpetual calendar] watches would often be damaged by owners while trying to correct them,” explains Mr McDonnell, “This was seen simply as an unavoidable factor of [perpetual calendar] owner...

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Introducing – A Vintage Take on the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365 Monochrome
MeisterSinger Feb 16, 2024

Introducing – A Vintage Take on the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date 365

Taking its inspiration from yesteryear’s rudimentary tower and table clocks, MeisterSinger has built a solid brand around a rather unusual premise: all its watches are equipped with a  single hand. Although a single hand might be equated with simple watches, MeisterSinger defies expectations and has escalated the complications ladder with everything from calendar indications to […]

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The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Digital However Feb 16, 2024

The Retro Digital Casiotron Makes a Comeback

Half a century ago, Casio unveiled the Casiotron QW02, the brand’s very first digital watch. Showing the time, month, date, and day of the week – with the calendar being “perpetual” – the Casiotron was a landmark and the ancestor of the G-Shock, one of the bestselling watches of all time. Now it has been revived Casiotron “50th Anniversary”, a limited edition that preserves the looks of the dinky original but enhanced with modern build quality and technology, including a solar-powered movement with smartphone connectivity. It is essentially a cutting-edge electronic watch in vintage dress. Initial thoughts As a Casio fan, I recognise the importance of the Casiotron, even though it is an inexpensive watch. It established the benchmark for digital electronic watches with its clean display and multi-functionality. Casio got it right by resurrecting this iconic retro design with contemporary upgrades, particularly since the 1970s styling harmonises with current preferences for integrated bracelets. The remake wisely retains the original design, right down to the fluted inner flange and applied logo. But the electronics are entirely 21st century, with the movement featuring the same solar-power module found in many modern-day Casio and G-Shock models. The Casiotron remake costs US$500, affordable in itself but pricier than Casio’s own digital offerings and also a fifth more expensive than the Tissot PRX Digital. However, the premium is justified simply because...

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Zenith Adds a Titanium Chronomaster Sport to the Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Adds Feb 8, 2024

Zenith Adds a Titanium Chronomaster Sport to the Collection

The last two weeks have been big for Zenith’s El Primero line. First an El Primero Triple Calendar, then two new Chronomaster Sport references, one in green the other in rose gold with a gem set bezel. Now Zenith is dropping another entirely iteration, in a new metal: the Chronomaster Sport Titanium. The watch was announced as a part of Zenith’s partnership with famed tennis coach Patrick Mouratoglou’s Ultimate Tennis Showdown league, which kicks off its season this month. (Mouratoglou is well-known to tennis fans, but to give outsiders a sense of his stature, this guy coached Serena Williams for her last decade on tour, arguably her most dominant era.) Zenith has been the official timekeeper for the league since it launched in 2020, and the new Chronomaster Sport seems designed with that relationship and serious athletic activity in mind. The Chronomaster Sport Titanium features a 41mm grade 5 titanium case, bezel, and bracelet–though a strap option is also available for $500 less–making the watch 30% lighter than the steel models. (Surprisingly, the titanium model is also not that much more expensive than comparable steel models, coming in at $11,800 on the bracelet, versus $11,300 for a stainless steel Chronomaster Sport on the bracelet.) Titanium is also highly-resistant to corrosion, making it an ideal metal for a watch that’s meant to be worn in sweat-inducing environments. A signature of the Chronomaster Sport is its use of color, particularly on the thr...

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Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star” SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Feb 1, 2024

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star”

Best known for its astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has created a special run of its chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase for its retailer in the Netherlands. The Ace x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne Amsterdam Star is preserves the original design but adds a “fog grey” dial with star-shaped indices inspired by the “Stelline” dials found on 1950s Rolex watches. Initial thoughts The independent brand’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers is logical since both hail from the same country. The stAriadne stands out with its star indices that replaces the Arabic numerals of the standard model. A nod to the Rolex ref. 6062, star dials are relatively rare in contemporary timepieces, rendering this release quite distinctive. That being said, this is essentially an Ariadne with a new dial. Ideally, it would have been more interesting with mechanical tweaks to the largely standard Valjoux chronograph movement, a reliable but thick movement with shortish power reserve. But considering it is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at €7,180 – about the same as the standard model – it is a reasonable proposition. A “star” dial  The stAriadne is the latest iteration of the Ariadne, one of the longstanding models in the CVDK line-up. Since its launch, the model has been powered by the Valjoux 7758, a variant of the familiar 7750 chronograph movement that has the addition of a complete calendar and moon phase. Last year, the Ari...

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Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project Worn & Wound
Seiko Power Design Project From Jan 30, 2024

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project

From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...

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Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Jan 24, 2024

Introducing – The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade

In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. introduced its Streamliner series, offering its distinctive interpretation of the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. If you’ve followed the brand, you’re likely acquainted with the Streamliner’s diverse lineup, including the chronograph, perpetual calendar, time-only, small seconds and tourbillon models. Notably, the red gold Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack from […]

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Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s distincti Jan 22, 2024

Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024

Seiko has just opened the latest installation of Power Design Project, the annual exhibition that invites watch designers to explore experimental ideas designs centred on a particular theme that diverge from their conventional designs, generating innovative concepts that might one day be incorporated into watches. This year’s exhibition is titled Incredibly Specialized Watches and serves as extension of last year’s event with a continued focus on avant-garde designs with a functional twist. One of this year’s creations is a sukiyaki timer that helps the wearer cook beef in the hotpot dish – complete with a Kobe beef-pattern strap. Originally conceived two decades ago and halted in 2009, Power Design Project was revived in 2022 to capitalise on the increased interest in Seiko’s diverse stable of timekeepers. Taking place at Seiko’s exhibition space in the trendy district of Harajuku, the 2024 exhibition takes place from January 19th to March 31st. For this year’s exhibition, Seiko recruited seven designers to create distinct perspectives on wristwatches, with each design meant to specialise in a specific timekeeping function. As a result, the exhibition features seven watch models, but each with in two different configurations of the dial, case, and strap, resulting in 14 different timepieces in total. The sukiyaki watch Consider the ambidextrous wristwatch concept created Seiko’s in-house designer Kento Ito. This watch epitomises Grand Seiko’s distincti...

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Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac Jan 5, 2024

Review: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon”

Arriving just as the Dragon year begins in February, the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Dragon” is the latest illustration of the Geneva brand’s artisanal and technical capabilities, with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture on a grand feu enamel dial and an in-house calibre that indicates the time and calendar on discs. The “Year of the Dragon” is the final chapter in the brand’s Chinese Zodiac collection, an annual series of limited editions that began in 2012 with the rabbit. With the Chinese zodiac made up of a repeating 12-year cycle – with each year represented by an animal – the series reaches its conclusion with this dragon edition, which like its predecessors is available in either pink gold or platinum. Initial thoughts Dragon-themed watches have already started to proliferate with the incoming Year of the Dragon, simply because the dragon has the most universal appeal amongst all of the zodiac animals. It carries desirable symbolism across East Asia, as opposed to say, the rodent or pig, which have a niche audience. So the appeal of a dragon watch is arguably less about the motif, which is now common, but the execution. And here the Metiers d’Art “Year of the Dragon” excels in both presentation and technique. I’ve always been fond of Vacheron Constantin’s quadruple-disc display because it is both logical and attractive. The display makes sense because it leaves majority of the dial free fo...

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