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Review: Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) #88
We take a look at the AdC #88, a time-only watch first introduced in 2018 by Barcelona-based independent watchmaker Atelier de Chronométrie.
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SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Unique Ressence Type 1 Slim to be Sold for Charity
As the COVID-19 pandemic was reaching its peak, Ressence announced Time to Draw, a design competition inviting contestants to reinterpret of its Type 1 Slim, with the winning entry being sold to benefit COVID-19 research at KU Leuven, a university in the company’s native Belgium. Triumphing over 465 other entries, the winning design was created by Englishman Raymond Ramsden. Named after his two sons, the Type 1 Slim “Ayrton & Finlay” is a bright rendition of the Type 1 that is a striking departure from the brand’s typically monochromatic style. The finish watch alongside the winning drawing Clad in pastel colours, the watch clinched the prize because it looks vastly different from the standard offerings of Ressence. Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens stated “[we] wanted to create a genuine one-off, so we opted for entries that were far from our own artistic direction”. By extension, the watch is distinct in personality – the bright pastel colours are more cheerful and extroverted compared to the usual Ressence wristwatch, which has a no-frills, technical appearance. I love this design for its fun, fresh, and vibrant look. Apart from the facelift, the rest of the watch is everything that you know about the Type 1 Slim. The watch has 42 mm, tonneau-shaped titanium case that’s 11 mm tall. Because of its almost lug-less design and concave profile, it sits very compactly on the wrist. The orbital display is the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), the brand...
Quill & Pad
Kudoke 2 Nocturne: A New Edition With Handcrafted Movement, Artistic Dial, And Sensational Value
Stefan Kudoke’s time has arrived. All the long years of learning, obsessing, wondering, and hard work are now paying off for the German watchmaker and engraver, whose gorgeous Kudoke 2 won the Petite Aiguille award at the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). And Elizabeth Doerr finds the brand-new Kudoke 2 Nocturne just as enchanting; she explains why here.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing
This week on Micro Mondays, we are looking at a brand that is a little older than most of the watch manufacturers we feature in this column - Ollech & Wajs. And what a story the company has … This might be one of the best-kept secrets in the watch industry, with the Zurich-based company … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: It’s Mind Blowing! (Live Photos)
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: the story continues. Indications include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, moon phase, and a world time/second time zone display. All of which is powered by an entirely new double-sided flying tourbillon movement with totally new architecture. Warning: it may blow your mind!
Quill & Pad
Jazz And The Syncopation Of Fine Mechanics – Reprise
Rebellion takes on many forms – like jazz music, which at one time represented an extreme deviation from musical tables and conventional styles of music, perhaps as much or even more so than rock and roll. What timekeepers did these musical giants prefer to wear? And which brands pay tribute to them today?
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out
When it comes to tool watches, there are few brands out there as dedicated to instrument aesthetics as Bell & Ross. Although they may lack centuries of heritage, starting off in the early ’90s with Sinn making their watches, they’ve endeavoured not to be left behind in the everlasting race for technological advancement in watchmaking. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The B&R; BR03-92 DIVER FULL LUM has a proper party trick when the lights go out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
An Open Letter To Watch Brand CEOs: Why You Should Enter The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The time is now, according to GaryG, for large watch brands to seize the opportunity to make a real difference to the health of the mechanical watch industry and the prosperity of their brands. He thinks that 2020 is the year for CEOs to commit to entering their best new pieces in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
Time+Tide
OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch?
Having moved house last year, I finally got around to collecting the last remaining items from our storage facility last weekend. All that was left was a forlorn collection of those random bits and pieces that you barely use, but can’t quite stomach throwing out. There was a box of bedraggled Christmas decorations, a tennis … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game
If we’re honest with ourselves, luxury sports watches aren’t actually designed to be used during sport. Sure, they are more robust than your typical dress watch, but the most adventurous situation they are designed to find themselves in might be diving into glittering Capri waters from the deck of a sailboat, maybe suffering a small … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition can actually improve your golf game appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline
Laurent Ferrier is 10 years old, and to make the occasion the brand is launching the Classic Origin Opaline, a time-only, hand-wound watch with a slim, titanium case. In many ways, the new watch is a minimalist take on the standard Laurent Ferrier time-only watch – the style is beautiful, restrained, and typical of the brand, with a new(ish) and significantly simpler movement inside, allowing for a fairly affordable price. Initial thoughts The Classic Origin Opaline has the much-loved Laurent Ferrier look – fluid lines and elegant forms on the case and dial. And in the usual manner of the brand, the dial is unadorned but executed with fine materials – the hands and hour indices are solid white gold. The movement, however, falls a bit short. Laurent Ferrier’s earliest movements – the LF229.01 of the Galet Micro-Rotor and the LF619.01 of the Galet Tourbillon – were best-in-class calibres that excelled in construction, finishing, and details, which unfortunately set a very high bar. But since the company entered a prolonged period of management turmoil, its movements have lost the magic. The quality is still good, but they are no longer outstanding. The LF116.01 in the new Classic Origin Opaline is essentially a variant of the movement in the annual calendar and also found in the Bridge One with a reshaped base plate and bridges. It has large bridges with simple silhouettes, as well as solid, clean finishing. Granted, a handful of the traditional Laurent Ferrier f...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: A breath of fresh Classic Fusion, Hublot’s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique Monaco”
How do you celebrate a first birthday? Balloons? Candles? Maybe a cake? That’s what most folks would do. Hublot, however, like to do things a little differently. That’s why, to mark a year since their Monaco boutique opened, the provocative Swiss watchmaker has unveiled this – the Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A breath of fresh Classic Fusion, Hublot’s Aerofusion Chronograph Special Edition “Boutique Monaco” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Blue Skies and Blue Dials – The Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue
Tudor adds a new variation to their beloved 39mm modern dive watch with the Black Bay 58 Navy Blue, just in time as the world opens up from lockdown.
Time+Tide
GAME ON: Gucci and Fnatic have bridged two worlds with their new collaborative dive watch
In the timeless words of Lil Pump, “Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang, Gucci gang (Gucci gang!)”. Evidently, Italian fashion juggernaut Gucci has heeded these wise words of advice, because the vogue maison’s gang has just swelled considerably, as a result of partnering with eSport giant Fnatic. For those … ContinuedThe post GAME ON: Gucci and Fnatic have bridged two worlds with their new collaborative dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver
This year appears to be Year of the Luminor for Panerai. Having redefined the warranty with the lavishly lumed and 3D printed PAM01117, the introduction of the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313 sees a bit more restraint return, with classic Luminor design cues but a similarly luscious blue sunburst dial. With its technologically impressive three-day movement, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Tuxedo”
Made up of modern reinterpretations of historical watches, the Longines Heritage collection has been steadily gaining traction with enthusiasts. Typically faithful to the originals and also great value propositions, the line up was just joined by two black-and-white “Tuxedo” watches, a two-counter chronograph as well as the time-only Heritage Classic “Tuxedo”. Initial thoughts Longines has made it a habit of reaching into their rich archive to churn out historically-inspired watches like the Avigation BigEye Chronograph. While the proliferation of remakes might dilute the desirability of the vintage originals, I appreciate it very much. Such remakes allow me to enjoy the vintage aesthetics, but in a watch with modern build quality and compelling pricing. And like earlier Heritage models, the new “Tuxedo” has strong vintage cues and little that gives it away as a modern watch. Notably, Longines omitted the customary “Automatic” label, and more importantly, the date, avoiding a recurring pitfall for vintage remakes. The 1940s original (left) and the remake Highly legible thanks to the strong contrast, the dial has prominent Arabic numerals that add a bit of Art Deco flair that I adore. Its symmetrical layout with a small seconds at six o’clock also adds to the visual charm. Overall, the watch is balanced and clean, with no unnecessary elements to distract from its simplicity. While the aesthetics are vintage-inspired, the case has been slightly upsca...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #181: Who Wore It Better?
Mike and Kaz compare some of the watch world’s favorite design and style tropes in a head-to-head match between two watches at a time. Also, Patreon is growing! Thanks to everyone that has hopped on for those special tiers.
SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the William Wood Valiant White
Editor’s note: Well, this little brand from London that thought it could, sure has convinced us of their seriousness over the last six months. It started with an email to us practically begging to donate a watch to the Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It was a bit late in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the William Wood Valiant White appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: A golf performance coach who trains the stars rates the new TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition
Golf is an addictive sport. One that blends the physical power of a Nadal forehand with the psychological rigour of playing a chess Grandmaster. And devotees of the game will do just about anything to get an edge. The immediate question is, will the TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition help them with that? Because, golf … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A golf performance coach who trains the stars rates the new TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Premier League Champion Virgil Van Dijk Wearing A Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5168G
It's about time!
Time+Tide
7 potential bargains from Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI, launching later today in Geneva
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI is just around the corner, and we must say – it is so refreshing to see something in the watch world that’s actually going to happen. No cancellation, no postponement, this auction is going ahead … and it’s got the potential to be quite interesting. Given the precarious state the … ContinuedThe post 7 potential bargains from Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI, launching later today in Geneva appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Atelier de Chronométrie Introduces the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph
Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie made a name for itself with its beautifully crafted watches that capture the grace of 1940s timepieces. But all of its work so far has centred on time-only watches, all powered by heavily decorated vintage Omega movements. But now the AdC #8 Split-Seconds Chronograph takes things to a whole new level. Retaining the elegant feel of the brand’s earlier creations, the AdC #8 is powered by a reworked movement that started out as a Venus 185 but completely reworked by Atelier de Chronométrie, with a substantial number of parts made from scratch. Commissioned by an American collector, the AdC #8 is largely hand made, with everything hand finished to a superlative, artisanal standard, which is why it took took two years to complete. Initial thoughts I first found out about this watch late last year, and it sounded promising given Atelier de Chronométrie’s track record in design and movement finishing. Though I am going by photos, the finished product definitely lives up to expectations, and then some. Everything about it is just done extremely well, and while it costs a lot of money, the AdC #8 is compellingly and reasonably priced as such things go. Having closely examined Atelier de Chronométrie’s earlier watches, the AdC #8 will undoubtedly have the same feel – visually similar to a vintage watch but much more solid in the hand thanks to a more robust, modern case. A little under 40 mm in diameter, the AdC #8 has the proporti...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size
The 1940s were a golden period for chronograph innovation at Longines, an era that included the now highly collectible 13ZN movement, as well as timelessly balanced and articulated designs. The depth of Longines’ archives from this period have yielded yet another handsome model that is faithful to the original, with sensitive updates to bring it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Montreal Limited Edition
January … they really were simpler times: no global pandemic and no lockdowns. The first month of 2020 also saw TAG Heuer completely and utterly steal the show at LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week with the limited edition, nigh-on faultless Carrera 160 Years Silver. In fact, it was such a good timepiece that T+T founder Andrew … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Montreal Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The masterclass in macho minimalism that is the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Chronograph
Who says the sequel can’t be as good as the original? TAG Heuer have just dropped their second collaborative timepiece with Japanese outfit Fragment Design, and it looks fresh to death. Consider it the Empire Strikes Back to equal, or even exceed Star Wars. This watch is an absolute masterclass in masculine minimalism that is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The masterclass in macho minimalism that is the TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Serendipity struck Sap while wearing his custom Deep Blue watch
There is huge power in community, even if you don’t always realise it. And there’s nothing like a serendipitous meeting to remind you of the little threads of connection all around you that build that community. It was one such chance meeting that Sap experienced while wearing his Deep Blue watch that was custom-made for … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: Serendipity struck Sap while wearing his custom Deep Blue watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection
Why do we have children in the first place? To anchor our rudderless lives with a faint sense of meaning? To give and receive unconditional love? To experience the most profound and humbling experience that is available to humanity? No, no and thrice no! We have children, of course, as a half-arsed excuse to buy … ContinuedThe post Buying a “birth-year” watch for your kids is the excuse you need to beef up your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving…
In part three of our epic digital Baselworld event, Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen and Luke Benedictus spoke with Aussie swimming legend Michael Klim. Our timing was perfect, as Michael has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame as part of Class of 2020. Swimmingworldmagazine.com reports that “Michael Klim has been called the best relay swimmer … ContinuedThe post Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: AHW Studio, jewellery for the watch enthusiast
Often in the watch community, it’s difficult to celebrate the art of horology in any other way than simply wearing a watch. I mean, sure, you can consume editorial content (bravo, you’re already nailing this), wear a pair of socks covered in watches and maybe even pick up a copy of your favourite watch magazine … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AHW Studio, jewellery for the watch enthusiast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.