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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph Now Oct 12, 2023

The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium

After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size.  As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality.  The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...

Dubai Watch Week 16-20 November, 2023: The World’s Greatest Watch for Collectors Fair Bar None Quill & Pad
Oct 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week 16-20 November, 2023: The World’s Greatest Watch for Collectors Fair Bar None

Baselworld is no more, Watches & Wonders, while open to the public, is focused on press and retailers, and Geneva Watch Days (GWD), while growing, is still relatively small. In less than 10 years, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has developed from relatively modest beginnings into the world’s greatest watch fair for collectors bar none. No other fair comes anywhere close in terms of access to brands, watchmakers, and fellow watch aficionados.

The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500 Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 11, 2023

The 48 Best Automatic Watches Under $500

Let’s be honest: not everyone can spend thousands of dollars on every new watch purchase, especially someone who might just be getting into the watch collecting hobby or perhaps looking to spend $1,000 or so to assemble his or her first three-watch collection. Fortunately, there are a plethora of options out there in the sub-$500 watch category, with choices from the usual suspects like Seiko, Citizen, Swatch, Timex, and Orient, as well as from several microbrands that offer worthwhile options in that narrow price range as well. Here we have compiled a selection of the best automatic watches under $500 that deserve to be on your radar - and perhaps even in your collection. Before we begin, some important ground rules: Our curated list will feature watches costing under $500, and equipped with an automatic movement inside. The very few exceptions to the under-$500 rule will be called out in the descriptions below. As always, we can’t include every potential watch that meets the criteria in this range, but you can find some others in several other guides on our site, such as our lists of The 60 Best Seiko Watches and The 51 Best Microbrands. Finally, in order for this list to flow properly, the watches will be grouped together according to the following style categories: 1) Dive, 2) Dress, 3) Everyday Finally, at the end of the list, we will shout out a handful of watches that are worthy of notice but just missed the cut on price. Dive Watches: S...

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2023

Alsta Refreshes the Nautoscaph with Three Vintage Inspired Skin Divers

Fans of the skin diver, the easy to wear style of dive watch that has become core to the watch-nerd lifestyle in recent years, will be excited to hear about the new Nautoscaph Skin Divers from Alsta, a watch brand that was truly there at the beginning of the skin diver movement in the heyday of recreational SCUBA diving decades ago. It’s very easy, in my opinion, to see the appeal of the skin diver. They were made to be an approachable alternative to more professional oriented dive watches years ago, and those design characteristics that made them appealing in the 60s and 70s remain alluring today. These watches tend to have smaller case sizes that are thinner and easier to handle than bigger, chunkier divers that are rated to go much deeper. Plus, you still get an ultra practical, highly legible dial. Ditto for the timing bezel. What’s not to like?  Alsta is perhaps best known these days for being associated, somewhat loosely, with Jaws, which we covered earlier this year in podcast form. Richard Dreyfuss, as Matt Hooper, wore an Alsta throughout the film, in a way that can only be described as inconspicuous and incredibly casual. It just feels like the right kind of watch for a character who might or might not need to do a little diving, and it looks at home topside in a variety of situations, which is part of the point of a skin diver to begin with. The new Nautoscaphs seen here certainly have a similar vibe, and would make sense on the wrist of Matt Hooper or his ...

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold Time+Tide
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Oct 11, 2023

The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold

Bright and flashy colours were initially seen as a returning trend when they first started cropping up a couple of years ago, but unlike the Stella dials or funky divers of the 1970s, colours have permeated all corners of watchmaking. A perpetual calendar watch is possibly the ultimate commitment to a colour, as it’s fully … ContinuedThe post The Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin commits to green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Celebrity Oct 11, 2023

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Celebrity Collaborations

In this fourth article commemorating the 30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (following: 4 New 2023 Releases, Here Come ‘The Beasts’, and ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers), here is the topic that initially interested Alexey Kutkovoy the most, i.e. the annals of the Royal Oak Offshore limited and special editions.

Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods! Worn & Wound
Bulova Since Oct 10, 2023

Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods!

If you’ve already come to a Windup Watch Fair in the past, plan to be pleasantly surprised when we open the doors on October 20th through the 22nd in NYC. If you haven’t been to one before, you’re going to be blown away by the sheer scope of the fair we’ve built out this year. As a reminder, here are the key event details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 21: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 22: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We have over 80 brands showcasing their watches and goods on two floors! This includes a handful of never-before-seen-in-the-metal watches and the introduction of “EDC Alley” to NYC, which was successfully piloted in both San Francisco and Chicago earlier this year. But look no further than our five Lead Sponsors to find some new releases that are sure to make any watch enthusiast jump for joy. Our Lead Sponsors Bulova Since its inception in 1875, Bulova has been synonymous with quality, precision, and innovation in the world of timekeeping. With a rich heritage and a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, Bulova continues to create watches that blend classic elegance with cutting-edge technology. From the iconic Archive Series to the celebrated CURV and proprietary Precisionist movement, Bulova remains a symbol of excellence in the art of watchmaking. Be sure to check out their collection of classic field watches which will be paired w...

The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch Worn & Wound
Tissot Oct 10, 2023

The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something special up for you, a loved one, or a friend!  Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup: A 90’s Throwback Zodiac, A Bold Tissot, and A Mini Knife That Packs A Big Punch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 10, 2023

Ming’s Latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a Subdued Update of Last Year’s Mosaic

Ming’s latest, the 37.07 Monolith, is a more restrained take on the 37.07 Mosaic released last year to celebrate the brand’s fifth anniversary. That Mosaic, like so many of Ming’s watches, is all about how different elements of the watch play with light. We see this is the watch’s key components, particularly with the lume on the dial and the meticulous finishing of Ming’s cases. The 37.07 Monolith, like the 17.06 Monolith before it, is effectively an inversion of these ideas. The case is blacked out and doesn’t feature a hint of high polish, and the dial is, almost literally, a shadow of last year’s watch. It’s a different vibe for Ming, and a reminder that the brand’s canvas can accommodate a range of styles and textures.  The idea with the 37.07, according to Ming, was to carry their design language into a more utilitarian state. They call it a “palate cleanser” in their press materials – a watch that can be worn without having to worry about it too much. This is largely achieved through a total transformation of the case, giving the lug tops, bezel, and crown a bead blasting treatment, while the case flanks the the case back retain the brushing that is common to most Ming references. Because there are still multiple finishes employed on the case, we don’t completely lose the sense of drama and feeling that every detail has been accounted for – everything is just an order of magnitude more subtle and reserved.  If you recall last year’s M...

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Laurent Ferrier Oct 10, 2023

Visiting the F.P. Journe Manufacture

I recently had the opportunity to see how the philosophy of “in-house” plays out in real life with a behind-the-scenes tour of the F.P. Journe manufacture in Geneva, and its newly opened case and dial factory in Meyrin, Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG). The tour was impressive in its thoroughness and transparency. Montres Journe, the entity that makes F.P. Journe watches, comprises three entities at two sites in the Geneva metro area. The first is the F.P. Journe manufacture in downtown Geneva – incidentally not far from the Patek Philippe Museum – where all F.P. Journe movements are designed and manufactured, and where all watches are finished, assembled, and tested. The reception room at the Geneva manufacture. When F.P. Journe launched in 1999, this room was the entire production space for the brand, which subsequently acquired the rest of the building. The original production space is now a reception area and home to a portion of the Jean-Claude Sabrier library, acquired in 2015. The other two entities are Les Cadraniers de Genève (CDG) and Les Boîtiers de Genève (BDG) – which translate literally as “The Dial Makers of Geneva” and “The Case Makers of Geneva”. The two recently moved into a new building where CDG makes dials for F.P. Journe as well as third-party clients like Vacheron Constantin, Laurent Ferrier, and numerous other elite brands, while in contrast BDG makes cases and bracelets exclusively for F.P. Jou...

Rexhep Rexhepi, The Remarkable Journey of the Horological Prodigy Revolution
Rexhep Rexhepi Oct 10, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi, The Remarkable Journey of the Horological Prodigy

Rexhep Rexhepi, renowned as a formidable watchmaker and horological prodigy, solidified his reputation through a remarkable journey. His exceptional career took a significant turn when he joined one of contemporary watchmaking giants, Francois-Paul Journe. In 2012, at the young age of 25, Rexhepi embarked on his horological odyssey by establishing Akrivia, a watchmaking studio bearing […]

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Oct 10, 2023

Grail Watches: The Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin) – And What is a ‘Grail Watch’ Anyway? – Reprise

“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”

The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe Oct 9, 2023

The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking

A partnership between Louis Vuitton and Rexhep Rexhepi of Akrivia marks the inaugural entry of Louis Vuitton's collaborative series with independent watchmakers.The post The Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie proves Louis Vuitton is a safe haven for independent watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 9, 2023

MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator

MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this.  Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...

Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades Worn & Wound
Nomos Brings Back Oct 9, 2023

Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades

I’m a firm believer that entry-level models often show the true essence of a brand. It’s the first point of contact for many buyers and, therefore, is a good representation of the design elements, quality, and creativity that define a company’s offerings. This is no different for NOMOS Glashütte’s Club model. The German brand has redesigned the watch in its original colorway, which has been out of production since 2017, with a revamped appearance, while keeping all the beloved elements of the reference intact. The watch itself keeps much of the distinguishing features that have made the Club a classic for those looking for an entree into NOMOS. The open space on the silver-plated dial is complemented by dark gray numerals (a shade darker than its previous iteration) and a broader, longer set of hands. The numerals are also accented with lumed outlines, making it easy to read throughout the day and well into the night. The final touch of the dial is the minute track, which is positioned well into the boundaries of the numerals, making the dial feel that much more open and spacious. It is this combination of upgrades: a brighter dial, larger hands, and lumed numerals, which have made small – yet significant – upgrades to the Club model and has pushed the brand into a new audience set who has been vying to enter into the luxury watch market and just needed the right invitation to do so. This is a handsome watch at just 36mm, making it a great addition to anyone...