Deployant
Today’s office: At The Hour Glass and the launch of the new MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
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Deployant
We attended the MB&F; HM8 Mk2 Blue launch event at the MB&F; Lab by The Hour Glass, and bring you this event report and our hands-on with the new watch.
Monochrome
Microbrands are reshaping today’s watchmaking landscape in remarkable ways. These small-scale ventures craft enticing timepieces, leveraging modern technology, marketing strategies, and the combined expertise, passion, vision, and business acumen. What’s particularly striking, at least for some, is their ability to deliver well-designed, high-quality watches at compelling prices, often packed with features typically associated with much […]
Time+Tide
If you're tired of constantly reading about the same five brands, have a break and enjoy some independent craftsmanship.The post The three independent watchmakers that should be on your radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s not often that we get to review a watch from a brand that is completely new to us. This week, though, I had the honor to get up close and personal with a new watch from a young brand called Lesablier. It was the LS-04 Travelgraph, and, in short, I’d describe it as a […] Visit Hands-On: The Brand-New Lesablier LS-04 Travelgraph - An Affordable, Compact, And Feature-Packed Worldtimer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A bestseller thanks to its integrated-bracelet design and accessible price, the Tissot PRX now gets more new dial options, including a “light green” hue for the time-only PRX Powermatic 80 and a “graded” green for the PRX Chronograph. The new green dials join the recent blue dial options and more compact 35mm model. Initial thoughts The new models are only cosmetic updates, but are otherwise the same. The brushed steel cases and ETA movements remain unchanged. So do the respective prices, making them the same value propositions as before. Notably, the chronograph dial gets a more substantive cosmetic upgrade beyond the colour. It now sports the waffle-patterned dial previously found only on the PRX time-only models. This is an attractive upgrade that imbues the model with a sportier aesthetic. New dial options The Powermatic 80’s dial features the same waffle pattern found in past models, but now finished in a “light” green hue that first seen on the quartz version released in 2021. The chronograph dial is presented in a darker shade of green with a gradient finish. It also gains the same stamped pattern found on the time-only model. This marks a departure from previous iterations of the chronograph, which were characterised by a vertically brushed finish with a two-colour scheme. Both watches retain the same case dimensions and movements found on earlier models. The three-hander is powered by the Powermatic 80.111, derived from the ETA C07.111. Tissot has e...
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Time+Tide
For those who never worked up the VIP lists of Tiffany or Patek, Loupe This is set to list the ultimate hype watch: a Tiffany blue Nautilus.The post Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
There is a vast swathe of the watch market awash with affordable watches, models that really deliver a lot of bang for the buck. But how many well-built, well-designed mechanical watches out there can you get for under 300 euros? Not many (the sporty Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic is a serious contender too). Producing watches that […]
Fratello
This week, Fratello On Air returns on its non-normal day because your co-hosts have been under the weather. We’re both on the mend, though, and happy to be on the airwaves. In this episode, we cover several topics, but our main discussion centers on the recent TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith releases. We try […] Visit Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Among affordable watches, the offerings from Citizen are hard to ignore. “Hard to beat” would be an even better choice of words. The Japanese brand is almost invincible when it comes to offering great value for money. The latest series added to the brand’s lineup are the Super Titanium Eco-Drive Chrono and Day-Date lines. Both […] Visit Hands-On With The Citizen Super Titanium Eco-Drive Chrono And Day-Date to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
A long lived pet peeve of mine in the watch industry is people referring to watches as “Brutalist” without having a clue about what the term really means. How, I always wonder, can a brand refer to their watch as being inspired by Brutalist architecture without it even being made of concrete? Well, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan is properly Brutalist in a very specific way, and truly lives up to its inspiration. And while the watch itself might not be made of concrete, the box is (really), and as someone who identifies Boston City Hall as one of his favorite buildings, that scores major points in my book. The B/1 is the result of a collaboration between watch designer Alfred Chan and artist, watch collector, entrepreneur, and budding TikTok personality Phil Toledano. You may remember Phil from his appearance on the Worn & Wound podcast, and if you’ve spent any time looking at watches on Instagram or TikTok, you’ve likely seen him unboxing new (but actually old) Pateks, Cartiers, and Piagets with his pal Mike Nouveau. Phil (who goes my Mr. Enthusiast on social media) has long been one of my favorite collectors for his eccentric and adventurous taste, fully embracing the strangest and rarest designs by the aforementioned brands and many others. If the industry as a whole is currently moving toward smaller watches, shaped cases, stone dials, and the avant-garde, let it be said that Phil got there first. He’s been interested in this stuff for years, and bangi...
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Monochrome
As we approached the end of 2023, the landscape for those seeking an obtainable motorsport-inspired chronograph underwent a shift, offering a slightly broader array of options. This was spurred by the notable introduction of an extension to IWC‘s Pilot’s Watch series: the Performance Chronograph 41. Available in titanium to commemorate the brand’s enduring partnership with […]
Time+Tide
There are few brands with the cache of Cartier, and we wanted to hear the full story straight from the horse's mouth.The post Why Cartier has always been the watchmaker of shapes, as told by Image, Style, and Heritage Director Pierre Rainero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Mr Enthusiast reveals inspiration behind Toledano & Chan, his new brand honouring 1970s design, materials, and quirks.The post The Bastardo abides: the transgressive tastes of Phil Toledano, and the Toledano & Chan B/1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There’s no denying that we’re in a spinning loop of retro reissues. While some are beautiful and poignant time-traveling talismans capable of mood-elevating magic, some are just cash cows. But if you’re into asymmetric modernity, the architectural futurism of the Toledano & Chan B/1 brings a much-needed breath of fresh air. This year, Watches and […] Visit Introducing: The Architectural Futurism Of Toledano & Chan’s B/1 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Established in 2010, Cyrus embraces the bold watch design traits reminiscent of the early 2000s, evident in every timepiece within its catalogue. The brand inherits a creative spirit, constantly striving for innovation and novel ways to depict time – and to master it. Consider the cosmic Klepcys Vertical Tourbillon series or the Klepcys DICE featuring […]
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Fratello
Next year, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato will turn 50. I’m telling you this now, well ahead of the anniversary, so you can prepare yourself for a wave of novelties. One year before the watch’s big anniversary, two very fresh yet rich versions make their debut. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue […] Visit Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue And Sage Green to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hamilton, once one of America’s greatest watchmakers, was a precursor of the field watch during World War 1. Supplying precision railroad watches to soldiers under General Pershing’s command, Hamilton adapted its pocket watches to wristwatch format, eventually supplying over one million wristwatches to the U.S. military during World War II. Fast-forward almost 80 years, and […]
Fratello
When Citizen introduced the (later-named) Tsuyosa back in 2022, it caused quite a stir. The 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet watch offered a lot of bang for the buck. This year, the Citizen Tsuyosa returns with a new version, the Small Second. Three new references join the collection, in blue, green, and gray. The last comes on a […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Small Second NK5010-51L, NK5010-51X, And NK5010-01H to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve. In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...
Worn & Wound
“War, war never changes.” An opening line that many Fallout fans will remember and a chilling comment about the nature of humanity. Based some 200 years in the future, the Fallout universe offers a striking look at what could become, if a nuclear apocalypse were to occur. Filled with witty one-liners, brutal imagery, and a splash of romance, Fallout has come to life in a live-action interpretation available to stream now on Amazon Prime. Based on the original video games, the new series features a unique perspective on “Vault Dweller” life and offers new lore about the beginning of the end. I’ll stop before I spoil anything, but as a fan of the games, sci-fi, and dystopian imagery, I can’t recommend this show enough. While I hope that this universe stays science-fiction, it did raise a question in my mind: What gear would I trust to keep me alive in a world like the one portrayed in the series? While several different scenarios could play out in a post-nuclear world, I’m going to stick to one that most follows the show: You’ve survived for many years in a vault, and are now leaving home in search of something important (remember, no spoilers to the show here). All of these items would have been acquired and stored within the vault since it was built. In this scenario, I’d need to carry all of my gear in my pack, and gear failure is not an option. These are the pieces of gear I’d trust in this extremely hypothetical scenario. Knife – Giant Mouse GMF4...
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SJX Watches
Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century, somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...
Monochrome
If you’re in the market for a well-built, well-powered, well-designed, and well-priced dive watch, Mido is almost always a strong candidate. A pioneer in the production of watertight cases since the 1930s, Mido’s Ocean Star 200 collection is the brand’s 21st-century dive watch, a rugged model designed for extreme sports on all terrains. Powering up […]
Fratello
This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The design-forward Ellipse steps into the spotlight with a "new" vintage-inspired construction.
Monochrome
New brands are created almost daily in the watch industry. Still, most of these newcomers or microbrands start with rather generic and accessible watches, powered by outsourced movements. Nothing wrong with that, but we sometimes wish for more. And ALTO, a new brand created in Paris, does bring a lot more. Radical design, out-of-the-box thinking, […]
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