Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Bulova Oceanographer GMT
The "Devil Diver" has been issued a passport.
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Worn & Wound
Now In The Shop: Upgrade Your EDC with Giant Mouse Knives & Tools
We’re thrilled to announce the addition of a new EDC brand into the Windup Watch Shop, and that brand is Giant Mouse Knives. Born from a post-knife show discussion between friends and knife community mainstays Jens Anso, Jesper Voxnaes and Jim Wirth, Giant Mouse set out to bring premium designs to the masses. By operating under a production style model (having their compelling designs manufactured by some of the best knife factories in the world), they’re able to bring these amazing designs to life with seriously high quality at an affordable price point. We’re starting off in the Windup shop with two distinct knife models. The Farley is a modern take on the classic slipjoint knife style, while the Riv is a thoroughly modern compact titanium framelock EDC folder. We’re also adding their Caplifter pocket tools too. Let’s take a closer look at these fresh EDC offerings from Giant Mouse. We’re thrilled to announce the addition of a new EDC brand into the Windup Watch Shop, and that brand is Giant Mouse Knives. Born from a post-knife show discussion between friends and knife community mainstays Jens Anso, Jesper Voxnaes and Jim Wirth, Giant Mouse set out to bring premium designs to the masses. By operating under a production style model (having their compelling designs manufactured by some of the best knife factories in the world), they’re able to bring these amazing designs to life with seriously high quality at an affordable price point. We’re starting off ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?
The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...
Worn & Wound
The Journey To Diving In Tudor’s New Black Pelagos FXD
Earlier this year, in the middle of our Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, Benrus put together a dive trip in the cold waters of Lake Michigan in celebration of their Ultra-Deep dive watch. You can see my photo report from the morning expedition right here. While diving has always been on my periphery, a side effect of writing about scores of dive watches over the years, I had never truly confronted the idea of getting dive certified myself until the experience of seeing those divers, many of them friends, take their turns stepping off the boat and into the depths. So, not long after returning back to New York, I scheduled time to get my open water dive certification through NAUI instructors. The only decision left was which watch I’d use during the process. I’ll confess, the final kick to get certified came upon learning of a dive trip that was being planned by Tudor, something off the coast of Florida in the Gulf, potentially around a new watch release (which of course ended up being the case). With that knowledge in mind, it felt appropriate to complete my training with a Tudor Pelagos FXD on one wrist, and the Apple Watch Ultra on the other. The idea of putting these things to use in such a manner was half the excitement, allowing me the opportunity to experience them as intended, and creating an additional layer of context within which I could assess them as tools. And not just the Tudor, but all of my divers. Having access to more seasoned divers during this proce...
Worn & Wound
Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo
Each new release from Farer seems to be made to combat the stereotype that British design is dull or humdrum. And with each reference comes an innate understanding of color combinations, setting it apart from similar brands in the market. Their latest collection, the Chrono-Contempo line, might just be the best yet from Farer to showcase the brand’s talents in action. The Chrono-Contempo collection, released today, has taken inspiration from Farer’s own backyard. The colorways in this collection are the aptly named Chalcot and Portobello, two nods to historic parts of London. Each with its own unique take on contemporary design, the two blend beautifully to create a broader landscape of Farer’s unique eye for color, encompassing vibrant orange, subtle navy, and a shock of mint green. Chalcot, named for the Square right next door to Farer’s HQ, balances big personality in a wearable design. Inspired by the “Big Eye” chronograph (named for the minute counter being larger than the other subdials), there’s a lot happening on the dial, without ever feeling overwhelming. This is due, in part, to the subtle way in which two of the subdials blend into the mint green backdrop, while the 3 o’clock subdial stands out in white. Further accented by a navy ceramic bezel and orange hands, this watch does Chalcot Square’s characteristic style justice. Second, there is Portobello. This stretch of London is a bustling, creative, and metropolitan hub and the watch mirrors t...
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The Royal Oak Offshore models that prove it's AP's creative playground
SJX Watches
Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, the Accelerating Chronograph
The 1971 Porsche ad quoted Dr. Ferry Porsche in bold letters beneath a Porsche 911: “There is no such thing as the perfect car. There is only the perfect car for now. A car with all the latest proven engineering concepts and design ideas.” The recently presented TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, with its novel chronograph complication, illustrates this idea to the letter. A reference to the acceleration of the original 911, its central seconds hand speeds up for the initial 9.1 seconds of an elapsed minute before slowing down to complete a full minute thanks to non-circular gears. Offered in two distinct versions of steel or rose gold, the Chronosprint commemorates not only the 60th anniversary of the watchmaker’s iconic Carrera collection but also pays homage to Porsche’s legendary creation-the 911 (initially presented as the 901 in 1963). The TH20-08 Initial thoughts TAG Heuer’s Carrera x Porsche collection has expanded with the pair of special-edition Chronosprints. However, compared to the earlier 911 RS 2.7 model that was merely a cosmetic makeover, these new Chronosprint aligns more closely with the ethos and spirit of Porsche because it incorporates a simple but clever additional complication within the chronograph. For one, the design evokes the aesthetics of Porsche dashboards from the 1970s, creating a dynamic and speed-focused timepiece. The styling serves as a tribute to the racing heritage of the carmaker, but also one which will appeal to ...
Quill & Pad
Piaget Polo Skeleton in Pink Gold: The Power of a Sublime Blue-Gold Contrast – Reprise
In Martin Green's view, the Piaget Polo Skeleton in pink gold with blue PVD-coated movement and matching alligator skin strap is quite the attention seeker, displaying a pleasant luxurious-sporty dynamic. He explains why here.
Worn & Wound
Minase and Fratello are Back with a New Version of the M-3, this Time in “Nori” Green
Our friends at Fratello have announced their latest limited edition collaboration, a follow up to last year’s release with Minase. That watch, the M-3 “Very Peri,” marked the first time Minase’s cushion shaped case was available outside of Japan. This year’s version borrows the same case profile, but lands on a very different dial execution. The Fratello x Minase M-3 “Nori” has a subtle green dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, making for a toned down and perhaps more under-the-radar version of the M-3 than last year’s brightly colored purple variant. Minase, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese brand that produces about 500 pieces per year in the Akita Prefecture. They incorporate many traditional Japanese craft elements in their watchmaking, with a focus on hand-made components, but also incorporate plenty of modern manufacturing techniques. If you’ve handled any of their watches (we’ve been happy to have them at several recent Windup Watch Fairs, and they’ll be joining us once again in NYC next month), you know that they machined and finished immaculately. Zach wrote about Minase’s Divido here, which has an extremely complex case and bracelet construction, paired with a dial that’s made with a very traditional Japanese lacquering technique. The M-3 has a simpler case, but it’s machined and finished to the same high standard as Minase’s more complex designs. The cushion style case measures 39mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and is just 10...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Putting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Through Its Paces In Iceland
Over land and ice to understand the Overseas.
Worn & Wound
Shinola Debuts the Latest Version of their Canfield Speedway Chronograph
As Shinola masterfully puts it, “When it comes to excellence, there is no finish line. Only the next lap.” Now on their sixth lap, the Canfield Speedway Lap 06 chronograph is a testament to the growing sophistication of the Detroit-based brand. In this newest iteration of the Canfield model, Shinola remains inspired with racing heritage and the vintage colorways that define that era of automotive sportsmanship. The dial of the Lap 06 is an understated Pea Gravel Green with accents of blue, yellow, and orange on the surrounding tachymeter. These details are enhanced by the two subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock marks, which are reminiscent of the two-tone wheel design of some of our favorite vintage cars. The case itself is 44mm in stainless steel and complemented by a heavy coin edge and colorful anodized aluminum collars on the pushbuttons. The strap of the Lap 06 is modeled after perforated driving gloves in a bourbon-colored leather. This is an automatic chronograph that runs on a Sellita Caliber SW510.BH.A movement, offering just over 60 hours of power. The Canfield Speedway is a culmination of small details and craftsmanship that have come to represent the Detroit brand as they head into their second decade. The Canfield Speedway Lap 06 is now available with a price tag of $2,995. Images from this post: The post Shinola Debuts the Latest Version of their Canfield Speedway Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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QUICK LOOK: All The New Models of Vacheron Constantin at Watches and Wonders 2024
Worn & Wound
Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep
Within sight of the Chicago skyline, I stepped off the gunwale of the 47-foot Seaquest II into Lake Michigan and deflated my buoyancy wing. We’d left the dock in Hammond, Indiana under a moody sky and spitting rain, but after an hour’s cruise, the clouds parted and the lake’s surface flattened out. The sun cast filtered shafts of “God light” onto the skyscrapers in the distance, the last view I saw before descending 50 feet into the blue-green depths. I followed the yellow mooring line down to where it was tied in to an auger on the lake bed. And then, there it was: a ship’s anchor, standing proud of the mud. It was coated with algae and quogga mussels but was unmistakable, looking like the archetypal sailor’s tattoo, with a five-foot shank and one fluke pointing to the surface it hadn’t seen in over a century. An intact anchor on a shipwreck is a thrill for any diver and if I wasn’t already chilled from the 59-degree water I’d have gotten goosebumps. To mark the moment, I looked down at my left wrist. The Benrus Ultra-Deep diving watch nestled under the cuff of my thick glove read 9:14. The Great Lakes, a chain of five huge inland seas that hold over 20% of the world’s freshwater, have provided a connected passage for cargo and passenger vessels since the early 19th century. Ships have carried coal, iron ore, lumber and grain between the American states and Canadian provinces that border the lakes, as well as beyond to Europe through the St. Lawrence...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Does The Apple Watch Ultra 2 Make It Into This Mechanical Watch Lover's Collection? (Video)
It looks identical to its predecessor, but the new cycling features as well as "double-tap" might've put me over the edge.
SJX Watches
Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee with the Seiko 5 Sports SPRK39
Twenty-twenty-three marks the 50th anniversary of the passing of the Hong Kong-American martial artist, actor, and cultural icon who tragically died at the age of 32. In honour of Bruce Lee’s legacy, Seiko has launched the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Limited Edition SPRK39, an affordable sports watch typical of Seiko but with an unusual all-black livery featuring subtle gold accents. Based on its entry-level sports watch, the edition’s launch also coincides with the 55th anniversary of the original Seiko 5 Sports. Retaining the same case and design as the regular production model, this limited edition incorporates Asian themes in its design as a homage to the iconic actor, including a dragon on the dial in a reference to Bruce Lee’s name. Initial thoughts It is perhaps long overdue that Seiko creates a timepiece to commemorate Bruce Lee, who was photographed on several occasions wearing a Seiko 5. The use of traditional Chinese elements are not groundbreaking, and might have even been kitschy, but fortunately an all-black look prevents this from resembling a gaudy souvenir. While this watch does evoke a certain nostalgia, it doesn’t quite have the vintage styling of the Seiko 5 model that Lee himself wore. I would have preferred an edition based the design on that or even other vintage models from the period. That would, however, probably result in a pricier watch that is a vintage remake. Priced at US$495, the Bruce Lee edition is US$135 more expensive than the stand...
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Wyler Vetta Beaux Arts Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronograph, a Blast from the Past
The Wyler Vetta Beaux Arts collection’s design language is firmly rooted in its Italian origins. Love it or hate it, one glance will confirm you’re in the presence of something decidedly different.
Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak X Gets the Green Treatment
There’s a narrative that has emerged around the Ulysse Nardin Freak over the years that its an extremely niche product, and something of a difficult watch to fully wrap your arms around. It’s strange, yes, even avant-garde, but as I’ve spent more time considering the Freak, I’ve come around to the other side of this story. I wonder, how can anyone not love the Freak? Even if it’s not to your specific taste, the Freak is an original, and one of a handful of truly important designs that would set the stage for a generation of interesting, independent watchmaking that we’re still living through today. The Freak might not be for everyone, but everyone should be able to agree that there’s something special about it. The latest Freak, the Freak [X OPS] is part of the still relatively new Freak X lineup, a collection that aims to make the watch more approachable. Blake went hands-on with a Freak X here, and both the review and video (complete with commentary from a watchmaker) are worth a look if you’re new to the Freak universe. But the gist of the Freak X is relatively easy to understand: it’s smaller than a traditional Freak, and it has a crown. Historically, the Freak was marketed as a watch with “No Dial, No Hands, No Crown.” A curious rallying cry for sure, and a tough thing to picture. But when you see it, it all (kind of) makes sense. For me, the addition of a crown doesn’t feel like too much of a transgression. The visual impression of the Freak...
Video
Tudor vs. Rolex: Which Watch is the Better Buy?
Deployant
Review: the new Citizen Series 8 880 GMT
Citizen has released a new mechanical watch in their modestly priced range - the Series 8 with a GMT function. Here is our comprehensive review.
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex Movement Takes the Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison of Rolex Calibers 3135 and 3235, plus Which is Better? – Reprise
Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Find out right here!
Revolution
The Collector’s Perspective with Kodoholic (@kodoholic), Part II
Join Constant in Part Two with Jim, better known as Kodoholic on Instagram, as we delve even deeper into his remarkable collection. In this installment, we explore his ‘Sleeper’ watches, those hidden gems often overshadowed by the fame and hype of other series within well-known brands. Jim’s collection is a testament to his diverse and […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Glass Bezel And Gold Bridges – Keeping The Quintessential AP Royal Oak Fresh 51 Years On
Audemars Piguet could find themselves boxed into a corner of design with the "Jumbo" but instead, they keep finding ways to do something new with an icon.
Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions
When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...
Video
WORTH THE HYPE? Reviewing The John Mayer Limited Edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Worn & Wound
Meetup Recap: Making Time in DC with Worn & Wound Readers and the Oris Airstream
Here at Worn & Wound, we talk a lot about a concept we refer to as “curated approachability.” This is the concept that we can celebrate our enthusiasm for products, especially watches, in a way that is both elevated, yet accessible. It’s a fine line to walk and few brands can do that better than Oris. So we were thrilled when the Oris team approached us about doing a meetup-style event with them somewhere a bit off the beaten path. We knew the Washington DC area was a spot where we not only had a strong crop of Worn & Wound readers, but it was a place where we were bound to have a great time. On Sunday, September 10th-at a stellar indoor/outdoor venue called Hook Hall-we squeezed the always-impressive Oris Airstream in and joined the Oris team along with dozens upon dozens of watch enthusiasts. Together we broke bread… er sliders, made new friends, and examined the full range of Oris’ new offerings. Some highlights on display from the Oris collection included the all-new 40mm Limited Edition Big Crown Pilot celebrating the life and humanitarian work of baseball hall-of-famer Hank Aaron. Guests were also treated to the striking Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023, which sports a striking purple dial that you can’t take your eyes off. To top it off, guests could try on the full array of their ever-popular “Cotton Candy” Divers Sixty-Fives in both steel and bronze. Oris Hank Aaron Limited Edition Oris Aquis Hölstein Edition 2023 Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton ...
Deployant
Review: The New Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001
The world is a large, mysterious place and there are some facts about it that you simply can’t wrap your head around. Did you know that Japan enjoys the highest snowfall anywhere in the world, or that the word geoduck is pronounced ‘gooey-duck’? Or that there has never been a mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph, thatRead More
SJX Watches
Cartier Reissues the First Tank Cintrée in Platinum
Following last year’s Pebble wristwatch, the latest instalment of the Les Rééditions de Cartier series of historical remakes is Tank Cintrée Platinum. Its launch marks the 100th anniversary of the first Tank Cintrée in platinum that debuted two years after the Tank Cintrée, which was in yellow gold. Notably, the new platinum edition is slimmer than its predecessor in yellow gold launched, standing just 6.03 mm high thanks to a reworked case and ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) calibre inside. Initial thoughts The recent popularity of Cartier’s classical designs have made reissues like this inevitable. Cartier does them on an annual basis, more or less, which spaces them well enough that each edition remains interesting, even if it is predictable. And in some ways Cartier’s limited editions are more appealing than its special orders, because the limited editions are a known quantity in a fixed form. Like Cartier’s past reissues, the new Tank Cintrée sticks closely to the original design, so much so it is almost indistinguishable from a distance, except for its new-watch sheen. Given the strength of the original design, this is a good thing. Interestingly, this is slimmer than the 2021 reissue in yellow gold. While the thinness is appealing, particularly for a formal-dress watch like this, one wonders if the reduction in thickness was to reduce the weight of precious metal. Besides allowing for a thinner case, the ultra-thin JLC movement is a historical r...
Time+Tide
Three cool things about the Hublot Square Bang Ceramic and Sapphire
Square watches are often associated with elegance, but the Hublot Square Bang flips the script, incorporating Hublot's mastery of materialsThe post Three cool things about the Hublot Square Bang Ceramic and Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
12 Colorful Watches from Only Watch 2023 (the 2023 Theme is Rainbow): Plus Best Story, Wildest Clock, and THE MOST ‘Only Watch’
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. For the 2023 Only Watch auction, the theme is ‘Rainbow’. However, while there are an incredible 62 unique piece timekeepers on offer, only a fraction of them really ran with the rainbow theme. Ian Skellern shares his favorite rainbow watches from Only Watch 2023 here.
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