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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Aug 15, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition

A fountain-pen maker for most of its history, Montblanc ventured into watchmaking and found success with its entry-level watches produced in its Le Locle factory. But the brand’s high horology watches are made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – Montblanc acquired the brand in 2007 – which produces only a few hundred timepieces each year. The latest model to emerge from Villeret is the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, which boasts a skeleton movement that’s been hand-finished the traditional way. Though there is little movement left after the open working, there’s much left to decorate. According to Montblanc, the bridges include 420 inwards angles on their bevelled edges. Initial thoughts Measuring 44.8 mm by 15.01 mm, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillion Skeleton is a surprisingly massive watch – a characteristic of many Montblanc watches powered by Minerva-derived movements. That’s because most of the calibres are descended from Minerva movements of the early 20th century that were originally built for pocket watches. The advantage is an appealing, old-school layout and aesthetic, but accompanied by the downside of extremely large size, making it impractical as an everyday watch. Priced at about US$160,000, the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton is priced similarly to comparable watches. In fact, it arguably has a finer movement finish than the competition, going by the average standard of movement decoration at Villeret. But at the same time, it is ext...

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Jumbo May 18, 2020

The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is one of the most well-known watches in the world, but there are some references within the family that remain relatively undiscovered. While they are extremely rare, Royal Oaks with stone dials are as beautiful as you would imagine from the Le Brassus-based brand, with lapis lazuli and various other … ContinuedThe post The liquid depth of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with onyx dial is worth travelling to Japan for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Audemars Piguet Museum is Complete (and Open) SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Museum Apr 22, 2020

The Audemars Piguet Museum is Complete (and Open)

Announced in 2014 as part of a massive expansion of headquarters in Le Brassus, the Audemars Piguet museum is now complete, although the public will have to wait end-June 2020 to visit. The vintage-inspired Remaster01 Chronograph limited edition was launched last month to commemorate this very occasion. [Update June 25, 2020: The museum is now open to the public, with tickets required for admission.] Designed by Bjarke Ingels Group (BIG), the Danish architects responsible for Google’s new North Bayshore headquarters, the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet is a low-slung spiral that gently rises out of the fields right behind the building Audemars Piguet has occupied since 1875. Inspired by a balance spring, the museum is almost entirely curved glass. A hundred and eight panels of structural glass support the steel roof that’s covered with a garden, blending into the pastoral landscape of the Vallee de Joux, the homely heart of Swiss watchmaking. The glass exterior is covered by a brass mesh to regulate temperature and light A spiral into the past and future Visitors to the museum will follow the spiral through the building – first clockwise towards the centre and then in the other direction to the conclusion – accompanied by some 300 timepieces dating from the 19th century to the present. At the centre of the spiral sit a selection of the brand’s grand complication watches, including the massive Universelle pocket watch from 1899. And appropriately, at the end of the...

Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated] SJX Watches
Rolex Feb 28, 2020

Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated]

On a fast-moving Friday that started with the first case of the COVID-19 coronavirus in the city of Basel being diagnosed according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps, the day culminated in the organisers of Baselworld 2020 announcing its postponement to January 2021, essentially cancelling this year’s trade fair. This comes a day after the organisers of Geneva watch fair Watches & Wonders announced it was cancelled, which wipes out the entire year’s calendar for the major watch industry events. Though the Baselworld organisers had initially planned to meet on Monday, March 2, according to an announcement by Hubert J. du Plessix, the president of the event’s exhibitors committee (and also the director of investments and logistics at Rolex), events got ahead of them. The primary catalyst Baselworld’s cancellation was the Swiss government declaring a ban on all gatherings of over 1,000 people, until at least March 15 – which instantly made the Geneva Motor Show, one of the automotive industry’s most important events, a non-starter. Now Baselworld 2021 will take place from January 28 to February 2, with press day happening on January 27. Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff, commenting in the announcement of the event’s cancellation, stated “We have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the...

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” SJX Watches
Chopard Feb 26, 2020

Hands On: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or”

Backed by Chopard and taking the name of a noted 18th century French watchmaker, Ferdinand Berthoud made its debut in 2015 with the Chronomètre FB 1. Though unusual in style with an octagonal case, the FB 1 boasts an impressively constructed movement developed and manufactured by the same facility responsible for Chopard’s top-of-the-line L.U.C calibres; the project was the brainchild of Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. At its core the FB 1 is an elaborate – and delightfully anachronistic – tribute to 18th century marine chronometers inside and out. The subject of four patents, the unusual calibre is very much antiquarian horology; it is constructed with pillar-style architecture and contains a chain-and-fusée, feeler-and-cone power reserve mechanism, and a large tourbillon with central seconds. Since the debut of the FB 1, there have been as many as ten subsequent variations – which is probably too many but it doesn’t diminish from the intrinsic, technical qualities of the watch – with one of the most recent being the Chronomètre FB 1 “Oeuvre d’Or” launched last year. Mechanically identical to the other iterations, the Oeuvre d’Or is distinguished by extra decoration, namely an engraved and grained gold dial as well as gold movement bridges engraved with a repeating pyramid motif. The Oeuvre d’Or FB 1.1-2 in white gold A tribute to marine chronometry Modern day Berthoud watches are inspired by the works of its 18th century namesak...

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained Feb 2, 2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained

At the beginning of last year, the famed Le Brassus-based watchmaker Audemars Piguet released their first totally new collection in decades, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59. It is safe to say that the release got people talking, with an outpouring of expression on social media articulating many people’s disappointment with the collection, blaming it for … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy SJX Watches
Jan 29, 2020

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy

Swiss jeweller De Grisogono, which in its prime was one of the most extravagant brands on the planet, has just filed for bankruptcy in Geneva, as a result of Luanda Leaks, the financial scandal that has engulfed Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, reports Swiss newspapers Tribune de Geneve and Le Temps. Luanda Leaks, a trove of leaked documents published by investigative news organisation ICIJ, revealed Angolan state funds were allegedly channeled to Ms dos Santos, helping make her the richest woman in Africa. Even before the leaked documents, Ms dos Santos and her family were already under pressure from her father’s successor, who has vowed to root out corruption in the oil-rich African nation. According to the documents, a portion of went to fund De Grisogono, which was acquired by a Angolan investors in 2012. The investment was led by Ms dos Santos’ husband, Sindika Dokolo, but allegedly funded by Sodiam, Angola’s state-owned diamond company. With De Grisogono continuing to lose money since 2012, the brand’s owners had been hawking De Grisogono for some time with no luck, and Luanda Leaks were the final nail in the coffin – the brand declared bankruptcy on Tuesday, January 28, 2020. The King of Black Diamonds Founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993, De Grisogono was perhaps most famous for its incredibly lavish annual party at the Cannes Film Festival – reputedly costing as much as 3 million francs in some years – that everyone who ...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 02 TAG Heuer’s Nov 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02

TAG Heuer’s fabled Monaco wristwatch, a timepiece immortalised in the annals of motorsport as a result of Steve McQueen sporting one in the 1971 film Le Mans, is for the first time in its history being produced with an in-house movement. That’s right, whether you were aware of it or not, the TAG Heuer Monaco … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Time+Tide
Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla Editor’s Aug 28, 2019

Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla

Editor’s note: Not everything in the watch world has to be same-samey. And the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla is a great example of that. It’s got two crowns, a big, cushiony case and style for days. If left-of-centre is your thing, you’ll want to have a read of Andy’s review …  A parcel recently landed … ContinuedThe post Two crowns, great watch – the Farer Aqua Compressor Hecla appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT May 25, 2019

Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now?

Editor’s note: Well, if it’s not the coolest, it’s certainly on the shortlist. And while this green and gold LE is a particular fave of ours, any of the 9F GMT movements work well. They’re effortless, and so perfectly proportioned on the wrist. Plus, the work that goes into the quartz is so gosh-darned impressive … ContinuedThe post Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.