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Quickset Date

Two-position crown for setting the date independently of the time. Rolex Cal. 3035 (1977) → Cal. 3135 → modern standard.

Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2499 Oct 12, 2022

Phillips Stages Largest-Ever Watch Preview Exhibition in Singapore

With the fall auction season about to begin, Phillips will soon open its preview exhibition in Singapore, the largest of its kind to date. The exhibition is an expansive assembly of 210 watches encompassing highlights from the Geneva, Hong Kong, and New York auctions. Amongst the watches on show are a few of the most important watches that will be sold this year, a few of which will undoubtedly set records when they go under the hammer. Independent watchmaking is strong represented with watches like the George Daniels Spring Case Tourbillon, not one but two examples of the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, and of course several early or limited edition F.P. Journe watches. The Simplicity from the Geneva auction, a recent example in white gold made after the first 200 pieces And from the Hong Kong auction, a Simplicity also in white gold but from the original 200-piece edition The selection from establishment brands is equally varied and impressive. It includes Geneva’s Lange 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court Edition”, a one-off made to benefit charity, and from the Hong Kong sale a crisp first-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold. The engraved, hinged back of the 1815 Chronograph “Hampton Court” The first series ref. 2499 The preview exhibition in Singapore takes place at the St. Regis Singapore from October 13-15. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm daily. The St. Regis Singapore 29 Tanglin Rd Singapore 247911 This was brought to you in partner...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Sep 19, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies

A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...

VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos 39 Sep 1, 2022

VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand!

You know that thought experiment you do at night when you’re trying to get to sleep? The one where you’re trying to design a hybrid watch with all your favourite details – not too big, not too heavy, no date window, not too extortionately priced, decent water resistance and so on and so forth? Well, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: We have the new Tudor Pelagos 39 in our hand! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 24, 2022

Code41 Introduces the Mecascape Pocket Watch

A startup that relies solely on crowdfunding for its timepieces, Code41 has launched a variety of wristwatches since its founding in 2016. All of its products to date have been wristwatches with a stylised, mechanical appearance. Now Code41 is launching its first pocket watch, the Mecascape. Essentially a portable clock that doubles up as a desk clock, the Mecascape is powered by a manually-wound movement with an eight-day power reserve. Like the brand’s other timepieces, the Mecascape has a modern, open-worked aesthetic, but applied to a regulator-style display with each of the indications in separate sub-dials. Initial thoughts More of a portable panel clock than a pocket watch, the Mecascape is an interesting product that doesn’t quite fit into any category of timepiece. The best way to describe it would be as an interesting mechanical object that watch enthusiasts might appreciate. Though slim, it is quite large at about 10 cm long, which is about a third shorter than an iPhone. The size means its practicality as a portable timepiece is limited. It would seem more useful as a small desk clock. Visually it has the modern, open-worked aesthetic found on watches from the likes of Richard Mille and Hublot. The style works well with the concept of the Mecascape. And thanks to its scale the mechanics are more easily observed than on a wristwatch. At just over US$9,300, the Mecascape seems fairly priced on initial examination, largely thanks to its unconventional form and...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever Time+Tide
Ming auction Aug 19, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever

There’s a necessary change of format to this week’s Wind Down because we’ve discovered the worst thing in the watch world ever. Admittedly, there’s some pretty stiff competition out there in a nefarious scene full of flippers, fakes and 4 o’clock date windows. But a forthcoming auction at Bonhams really takes the horological biscuit. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Aug 15, 2022

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air

Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Shows Off Aug 7, 2022

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches - Reprise

In 2021, Patek Philippe drew attention to the decorative arts that help make its watches so exceptional, further staking claim in the preservation of many of the traditional skills and techniques that date to the manufacture’s roots. The manufacture introduced six versions of familiar watch models that highlight Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts.

Hands On: Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph SJX Watches
Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Launched Aug 1, 2022

Hands On: Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph

Launched earlier this year as a follow-up to the time-only PRX, the PRX Automatic Chronograph is a natural evolution for the line-up. But unlike its little brother, the chronograph is not modelled on a vintage model, making it more creative, though it still retains the same styling as the base model. Being more complicated than the time-and-date version, the PRX Chronograph is expectedly wider and taller – it is rather bulky in fact – but it is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Plus the PRX Chronograph is also affordable and well priced. The PRX Chronograph ticks a lot of boxes, so we test drove the watch for a couple days to see if its appeal endured. Initial thoughts When I put the PRX Chronograph on my wrist, I instantly found it more appealing than most of Tissot’s offerings. In fact, the chronograph is even more appealing than last year’s time-only PRX. That was unexpected because the time-only model seems to do better on paper. The original PRX is smaller, thinner, plus it has a patterned dial, all desirable features in an integrated-bracelet sports watch. But it is perhaps those very features that might seem like shortcomings – the simpler design and large size – that make the chronograph appealing. Many Tissot watches are over-designed, but despite being one of the more complicated watches in the Tissot catalogue, the PRX Chronograph is just right. Any more and it might have been too much. At the same time, it’s exactly the size that gives the chr...

HANDS-ON: Oris debuts highly versatile Wings of Hope limited editions in steel and gold Time+Tide
Oris debuts highly versatile Wings Jul 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: Oris debuts highly versatile Wings of Hope limited editions in steel and gold

Last year at Dubai Watch Week, one of the debuts that stuck with me was the blue-dialled Oris Big Crown Pointer Date 5 Days powered by the in-house calibre 403. With its pleasantly dimensioned case, five-day power reserve movement with a 10-year warranty and straight-forward, smart-casual aesthetic, I felt it was a sure winner for … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Oris debuts highly versatile Wings of Hope limited editions in steel and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5 SJX Watches
Garrick Jun 17, 2022

English Independent Garrick Introduces the S5

Having debuted an elaborately open-worked watch in 2014 and then applied its trademark style to something more basic, Garrick has just unveiled its fifth model to date, the S5. Retaining the quintessential elements of Garrick, namely a guilloche dial with Roman numerals and hands with an uncommonly large counterweight, the S5 is essentially a smaller and simpler iteration of Garrick’s earlier models, but it’s an all-new watch in a technical sense. Equipped with a new, in-house movement, the S5 sets itself apart from its predecessors with compact dimensions that make it Garrick’s smallest to date. Initial thoughts The proportions of the S5 are its primary point of appeal. It’s only 39 mm wide and 8 mm tall, making it substantially smaller than the brand’s previous offerings. Those were all 42 mm in diameter, making them too large for the largely elegant and traditional aesthetic. And the large case size also brought to mind similarly styled but less expensive watches equipped with Unitas movements. Along with the reduced size, the S5 is also the brand’s most minimalist watch so far and the first with centre seconds. Given that Garrick’s earlier models all had subsidiary seconds, the centre seconds (and the smaller diameter) makes it clear that the movement within the S5 is different. It is indeed a new calibre, albeit one that wasn’t originally constructed with a centre seconds, which requires means a secondary train was required to reposition the second...

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time Deployant
Longines Spirit Zulu Time DEPLOYANT Jun 11, 2022

Review: the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time

The GMT function is likely the most useful complication on mechanical timepieces, right after the date. While some may say the perpetual calendar is useful too, the effort to keep it running all the time or adjusting the date everytime to keep it updated is too much of a hassle. Chronographs on the other hand are not useful either for day to day tasks. The GMT however, is has many modern corporate slave applications, especially for those who travel or work with teams in different timezones. It is also the best multi timezone configuration that does not throw errors like the world timer, which becomes erroneous under daylight saving cycles and are also particularly hard to read.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces May 16, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Atmos Infinite

Although Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched about a dozen new wristwatch models to date in 2022, the standout new timepieces from the Le Sentier manufacture are a pair of clocks that share the same aesthetic. One is the very expensive Atmos Hybris Mechanica Calibre 590, and the other is the far more affordable Atmos Infinite. Most Atmos clocks are defined by their boxy exterior and classical dial, with the notable exceptions being those designed by collaborations like Apple designer Marc Newson and Hermes. Reminiscent of Mr Newson’s Atmos designs, the Infinite features a clean, monochromatic movement in a seamless glass cylinder, instantly setting it apart from the rest of the Atmos lineup. Initial thoughts Sitting alongside the Patek Philippe Dome Clock as an iconic timepiece in the clock category, the Atmos is one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best products in concept and execution. It’s powered by a simple yet ingenious mechanism that’s so effective it remains unchanged after almost a century. And it is offered in a surprisingly wide range of designs, many of which are affordable, with the entry-level model starting at just over US$7,000. The Atmos Transparente, a more typical example of the clock with its four-sided glass box But most Atmos designs feel dated, being more or less unchanged since the 1950s. The exceptions were the limited editions by the likes of Mr Newson and Hermes, which were all much more expensive. The most recent Atmos Newson, for instance, retails for...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7147, which has May 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain

A modern-day specialty of Seiko, artisanal crafts such as enamel and porcelain are found in several of the brand’s collections across the price spectrum, although they are perhaps most associated with Seiko’s line of affordable, mechanical dress watches, the Presage. While past Presage offerings with artisanal dials were typically paired with simple complications such as a power reserve indicator or date, the latest arrival keeps the dial clean. The Presage Craftsmanship Series Arita Porcelain is made up of a pair of time-only wristwatches, the SPB239 with a white dial and the SPB319 with a light blue dial.  The SPB239 is accompanied with a metal bracelet Initial thoughts The latest Presage demonstrates a progressive evolution in the watchmaker’s aesthetics. Traditionally its automatic three-handers have always had a date, but the date window usually looked out of place. That was especially so for the artisanal dials, where date distracts from the beautiful, hand-made dials. In short, the fact the new Presage moves away from the date is a good thing. Also notable is the gently sunken dial. It’s executed almost seamlessly with a clean, gentle transition between the two levels. This contrasts with past Presage models that had complications, resulting in sunken indicators. In fact, the porcelain dial brings to mind another time-only watch with an enamel dial, the Breguet Classique 7147, which has an elegantly sunken seconds. The only thing I would change about ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium

Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection Mar 10, 2022

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways

I’ve always had a crush on the dual register Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection. The design felt modern and sleek while I also appreciated the date complication that was added. Furthermore, Omega still managed to fit a 12-hour counter on the watch. It truly was a match made in heaven until I got to the specifications. … ContinuedThe post Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide Hodinkee
Feb 11, 2022

UPDATE: New United States Presidential Watches Found And Added To Comprehensive Guide

Last President's Day, we released one of our most ambitious watch research projects to date: an attempt to catalog all known watches of U.S. Presidents. We knew that more watches would continue to come out of the woodwork, so we have collected a number of new watch discoveries here and have added them to the full guide. As always, please let us know if you happen to become aware of any U.S. President's watch we don't have listed.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 30, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Chronograph 41 mm Ref. 26240

In addition to new time-and-date models – led by the “Jumbo” ref. 16202 – Audemars Piguet revamped a few complicated Royal Oaks for the model’s 50th anniversary. At the top end of the complications line up is the flying tourbillon, while the most affordable is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm ref. 26240. Like last year’s solid-gold Royal Oak chronograph on a strap, the new ref. 26240 is equipped with the cal. 4401, the brand’s latest-generation chronograph movement that made its debut in the Code 11.59 Chronograph. All 50th anniversary Royal Oak watches produced in 2022 have 22k pink gold rotors bearing the anniversary emblem, but plated to match the case colour Initial thoughts Technically speaking, the ref. 26240 is less of a new launch because the gold version was introduced last year. What sets it apart is the bracelet; last year’s model was available only on a strap. But ref. 26240 is newsworthy as it marks the first time a Royal Oak Chronograph (ROC) in steel – historically the metal of choice for the Royal Oak – is fitted with an in-house movement. The cal. 4401 is certainly an upgrade over the Frédéric Piguet cal. 1185 that equipped past versions of the ROC. The new movement has almost everything a high-end sports chronograph should have, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel, while also having extras like a flyback function for immediate restart of the chronograph. Notably, the cal. 4401 also improves the balance of the dial...

Hands-On: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire in Titanium SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Jan 5, 2022

Hands-On: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire in Titanium

Just last year, IWC debuted its smallest Big Pilot’s Watch to date. Smaller, but not small, the latest Big Pilot is 43 mm, leaving it very much large and legible, but more wearable. The brand quickly followed up with the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire, which shares the same proportions but in new styles and materials. Two variants are available: titanium or bronze, but the standout is definitely the model in the lightweight metal. Initial thoughts The original Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is intrinsically appealing, being large enough to be an oversized aviator’s instrument, but small enough to sit relatively comfortable on wrist. That contrasts with the original Big Pilot, which is 46.5 mm in diameter. With the original version selling well, the addition of the Spitfire editions is natural. The aesthetic of Spitfire editions is clearly different from the that of the standard model in steel, which is good news for enthusiasts who want something more interesting. History fanatics, however, might frown at the dial design. Of the two Spitfire versions, the one in titanium stands out for its unusual, historically-inspired dial (though it’s not exactly historically accurate since IWC didn’t produce a B-uhr with such a dial; more on that below). And it also has an atypical case finish that mimics a worn, vintage case. On the other hand, the bronze version is identical to the steel model save for the bronze case and green dial – in fact it sticks to the same formula applied...

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Open... Jan 3, 2022

Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

The complete calendar is a complication that is, in itself, a sum of other complications, namely the day, date, month, and moon phase. Not to be confused with the triple calendar (which does without the moon phase), the complete calendar is one of horology’s most practical and poetic displays. In the realm of luxury watchmaking,Read More

Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 1, 2021

Baltic Introduces the Titanium Collection for Perpétuel

Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel opened last year with its first limited edition, a pair of watches by Baltic. Now the French brand is once again creating a limited-edition series of watches for Perpétuel, the UAE 50th Anniversary Titanium Collection. The three-piece limited edition is marks the first time that Baltic is using titanium for its cases, which have all been steel to date. And as is expected, the maker of affordable, vintage-inspired watches has customised the edition for Perpétuel’s home region, with all three watches having Eastern-Arabic numerals on the dials (as well as the bezel in the case of the GMT). Initial thoughts Baltic’s standard models are appealing because they have a simple, vintage-inspired style that’s nothing too fancy but still attractive, plus they are strongly affordable. The tweaks made to the designs for the Perpetual editions are modest but boost the charm of the watches. I especially like the HMS and Chronograph.  While the sector-ish dial is a familiar vintage look, the two-tone finish is fairly novel and also striking. And the graceful calligraphy of the Eastern-Arabic numerals complement the design and colours well. The Eastern-Arabic numerals on the GMT bezel don’t work as well for me. One reason is stylistic – the simple forms of the hour markers don’t match the elegant Arabic script. And the other is functional since I am unfamiliar with the script so the bezel is difficult to read, which won’t be a problem for an...