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Results for Sea-Dweller

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors Fratello
Nov 7, 2025

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors

The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments collection brings together the ancient Japanese art of Raden (inlaying of shell), traditional Vietnamese lacquer, and Swiss watchmaking. The dials comprise hand-laid mother-of-pearl fragments sealed beneath layers of natural lacquer. Offered in three limited editions (Green, Blue, and Pink), these watches showcase Awake’s mission to make metiers d’art available in […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors to read the full article.

Rolex Hulk Review: The All-Green Submariner Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Nov 6, 2025

Rolex Hulk Review: The All-Green Submariner

The Rolex “Hulk” Submariner is today one of the most collectible luxury sport watches on the secondary market, despite the fact that its green-on-green colorway was quite polarizing when it first hit retailers' shelves in 2010. The watch’s rise to legendary status, interestingly enough, followed a similar path to that of the Marvel character from which it derives its nickname. Here we explore the story of the Rolex “Hulk” and why it occupies a special chapter in the lore of iconic Rolex watches. Rolex Submariner Origins The Rolex Submariner famously arrived on the scene in 1953 but its roots reach much farther - to the historical, waterproof Oyster case that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf introduced way back in 1926. Named for its pioneering structure -  which combined two threaded, hermetically sealed “shells” that clamped tight to keep water from penetrating, along with a crown that screwed securely into the side of the case - the case achieved a water resistance never before achieved in watches. The Rolex Oyster case made its debut on a watch of the same name (below), and its waterproof design was improved over subsequent decades. Rolex supplied a version of its Oyster case to the Florence-based firm Panerai in the 1930s and ‘40s for use on the Radiomir, one of the very first wristwatches purpose-built for underwater use, worn by Italian military divers.  Fast forward to the early 1950s, and the growing popularity of scuba diving as a recreational p...

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Fratello
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs Nov 6, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026

As we continue our quest to find the definitive dress watch of 2025, it’s time for the fourth match of this first round of Fratello Dress Watch Season. Today, Nacho and Ben go head-to-head with two heritage-inspired contenders from Swatch Group brands. It’s the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 versus the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1518 Nov 5, 2025

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel

Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGM255 Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.

In His Own Words: François-Paul Journe on the Clock That Started It All SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum François-Paul was determined Nov 4, 2025

In His Own Words: François-Paul Journe on the Clock That Started It All

Exactly one auction season ago, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 made by François-Paul Journe became the most expensive timepiece sold in 2025, though the upcoming sales include other F.P. Journe creations that might give the Sympathique a run for its money. Inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest invention, the Sympathique no. 1 sold in May 2025 at Phillips in Geneva for CHF5.51 million including fees, at the time equivalent to US$6.61 million, to none other than François-Paul Journe. The price was just shy of the US$6.8 million that the Duc d’Orleans Sympathique sold for in 2012 – the buyer of that was the Patek Philippe Museum. François-Paul was determined to have Breguet Sympathique no. 1 for his upcoming F.P. Journe museum that is slated to open in 2026. Despite bearing another name on the dial, the clock will take pride of place in the museum, underlining its importance to the history of F.P. Journe. The tale of F.P. Journe as a brand is naturally inseparable from the eponymous watchmaker. Like his inspiration, Abraham-Louis Breguet, François-Paul Journe is more than a watchmaker, he is an entrepreneur who has built a brand, a legacy, and more than likely, a place in history. From the very beginning, decades ago as a young watchmaker in Paris, François-Paul Journe already possessed the vision that has now come to pass. Inextricably intertwined with that vision and the story of François-Paul Journe is Breguet Sympathique no. 1, for its origins encapsulat...

The Best Luxury Sport Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 30, 2025

The Best Luxury Sport Watches

Luxury Sport watches are probably one of the most popular categories out there with no shortage of excellent options from the most mainstream to the most niche independent watch brands. While names like the Rolex Submariner and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are seen as the staple watches in this category to aspire to, we asked our editorial team here to share their personal picks in this admittedly crowded category. So without further ado, let's take a look at our favorite luxury sport watches. Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. The Glashütte Original SeaQ is a prime example of a watch that can actually fill both roles.  While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Germany’s Glashütte Original can trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watch...

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...

A History and Guide to Field Watches Worn & Wound
Oct 26, 2025

A History and Guide to Field Watches

Enthusiasts are constantly searching for the perfect GADA watch; that is, a “go-anywhere, do-anything” watch. One ready for everything from a beach holiday to the office to weekend DIY projects and everything in between. Enter the field watch. Designed for the rigors of war, it now serves as the perfect go-anywhere companion. Constantly evolving throughout the 19th century, the entrenched warfare of the Crimean War and First World War forcibly altered the tactics of Europe’s armies. The ability to sync artillery and multiple infantry units across a front was of the utmost importance. As the (perhaps apocryphal) story goes, the pocket watch traditionally worn proved inconvenient for those at the front. A new class of watches, titled “Campaign,” “Wristlet,” and “Service” watches by various manufacturers, arrived to meet the needs of Europe’s armies. Enthusiasts are constantly searching for the perfect GADA watch; that is, a “go-anywhere, do-anything” watch. One ready for everything from a beach holiday to the office to weekend DIY projects and everything in between. Enter the field watch. Designed for the rigors of war, it now serves as the perfect go-anywhere companion. Constantly evolving throughout the 19th century, the entrenched warfare of the Crimean War and First World War forcibly altered the tactics of Europe’s armies. The ability to sync artillery and multiple infantry units across a front was of the utmost importance. As the (perhaps apoc...

Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Oct 24, 2025

Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT

Twenty years after launching its first watch, British watch brand Christopher Ward seems to be settling into a hard-earned level of maturity. Its latest introduction, the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT, exemplifies everything the brand has learned over the past two decades. It’s an impressive, feature-packed tool watch that combines the brand’s now fully fleshed-out design […] Visit Hot Take: The New Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 22, 2025

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch

Citizen's fleet of Promaster Pilot watches offer an array of styles and complications for the aviation-watch enthusiast, and the Nighthawk models occupy a specific niche within the overall collection thanks to their bold, no-nonsense design drawn from military helicopter cockpits. Here is what you should know about the Citizen Nighthawk, and a showcase of the models that have most resonated with enthusiasts. The flight of the Nighthawk begins with the Promaster. In fact, Citizen’s Promaster collection - established in 1989 and built around the concept of rugged yet stylish, multifunctional timepieces aimed at sea, air, and land professionals - could be described as the massive aircraft carrier from which many Citizen pilots’ watches have been launched. From this now-emblematic collection emerged many of the famous Citizen tool watches we’re familiar with today, categorized under Promaster Marine (dive watches including the Eco-Drive and Mechanical Professional Divers as well as the high-tech Aqualand); Promaster Land (including the altimeter-equipped Altichron and ana-digi Combination Watch) and Promaster Sky, which includes GMTs like the Eco-Drive Geo-Trekker and the now-familiar “Hawk” watches with multiple aviation-centric functions, like the Skyhawk, Navihawk, and Nighthawk. What makes the Nighthawk models stand out from their high-flying peers? It is the most military in its aesthetic, with a dial design inspired by the instruments found in the cockpits ...

Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” Time+Tide
Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from Oct 21, 2025

Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen”

This flyback chronograph dive watch's panda dial was inspired by the optical effect that cinema screens used to use for maxmium legibility.The post Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the Traska Venturer GMT Worn & Wound
Omega Seamaster Still occasionally Oct 15, 2025

Review: the Traska Venturer GMT

I’m not a big “upgrader.” I’ve never been hugely interested in having the latest thing. My style of collecting (or, arguably, of “accumulating”) has always come more from a deep-seated urge for completionism, rather than a desire always to have the best or newest. When I do take the plunge on something, I try to get exactly what I want, or the best option available, and then, typically, I’m pretty happy with it. It’s why I’m still using the iPhone 12 Pro Max I bought five years ago (it works perfectly), why I was totally comfortable - in buying my first gravel bike this summer - to opt for an older model year of the Cannondale Topstone instead of the shiniest brand new version, and why I’ve felt absolutely no urge to pick up a more recent iteration of my beloved Omega Seamaster. Still, occasionally, a meaningful update comes along that genuinely grabs my attention. Most recently, that happened with the watch I’m reviewing here: the Traska Venturer GMT, now in its sixth generation. There was a time, when watches and writing were a hobby and not a vocation, that I was the “NWA-every-other-week” type, but as my collecting has slowed down, and since I’m lucky enough to satisfy much of my urge for novelty through work, I’m much more restrained in my purchasing habits. The result of this is that I’ve somewhat fallen off the microbrand treadmill, the constant in and out of FedEx boxes from my house now primarily a professional concern, rather t...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter

Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new.  The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...

Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series Fratello
Seiko Rotocall” Series Well well Oct 15, 2025

Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series

Well, well, well, Seiko is on a nice roll! Last week, we covered the new limited-edition Prospex GMT Seashadow, and it garnered the type of enthusiasm we used to see with all Seiko releases. Additionally, the limited edition of watches has already sold out. Today, it seems that we have another mega hit in the […] Visit Introducing: The New Seiko “Rotocall” Series to read the full article.

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Oct 14, 2025

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel

Bremont has a solid portfolio of rugged tool watches designed for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. Recently restructured under Davide Cerrato, Bremont’s 2024 Terrra Nova collection was the CEO’s trial by fire. With its cushion-shaped cases, vintage details, and excellent legibility, the Terra Nova collection is designed to capture the elemental spirit of yesteryear’s military […]

Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2025

Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions

The designer and artist Romaric Andre (better known as Seconde/Seconde/) has had a string of hit limited edition watches over the last few years. Seriously, Google his name of Seconde/Seconde/, or just search our site, and you’ll see collaborations with brands large, small, expensive, affordable, and everywhere in between. He is, quite simply, one of the more prolific figures in the watch industry over the last five years or so.  I have to confess I’m not sure if anyone has yet attempted to make a list of the best of most viral Seconde/Seconde/ creations, but if such a list exists and it doesn’t have his Halloween themed collaborations with Spinnaker on it, I’m here to tell you it’s incomplete. This is the type of watch that when it was launched, the inevitable shortage produced vitriol and anger on Instagram (quickly corrected with the announcement of an additional, less limited batch). Now, Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ have reteamed for another bite at the apple with the Fleuss Automatic Seconde/Seconde 2025 Edition.  The new release maintains the “phantom” dial concept (a take off on “Fifty Fathoms,” get it?) but this time around there are two case sizes to choose from, 40mm (“Phantom Steel”) and 43mm (“Phantom White”). Both have a textured gray dial with lume filled indices and hands, and of course a whole bunch of those little lumed ghosts, completing the visual pun.  In addition to the option for multiple case sizes, both variants also ...

Rock-Solid Style: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Stones Limited Editions Fratello
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Stones Limited Oct 9, 2025

Rock-Solid Style: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Stones Limited Editions

Christopher Ward expands its versatile Sealander family with a striking set of four new models, the C63 Sealander Stones. This time, the spotlight is on natural stones, crafted into dials that make each watch one of a kind. The lineup includes malachite, charoite, turquoise, and tiger’s eye. The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Stones models are […] Visit Rock-Solid Style: Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Stones Limited Editions to read the full article.

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Oct 8, 2025

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Review

The independent sector is where some of the most interesting, imaginative, and experimental designs are happening in the watch world, and Christopher Ward has been a standout in the category since its Bel Canto hit the scene. But today, I’m turning my attention to one of its less-hyped collections, one that is rather tame compared to the rest of the brand’s catalog, the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander. It strikes me as an outlier within the Christopher Ward universe – not that it’s without its own particular flair, but I would say that compared to the bold experiments with case architecture, haute horology level movements, and general quirky panache that I typically associate the brand with, the C63 Sealander is remarkably tame. The questions of the day are: how is this watch situated within the brand’s own offerings? What works about this watch, and what could be improved? Finally, how did we arrive at this relatively minimal watch in the first place? Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Context While other watchmakers have centuries-long histories, the Christopher Ward origin story is comparatively contemporary, officially founded in 2004. In that relatively short scope of time, the brand has evolved into one of the most successful independent brands out there, and the Christopher Ward of today has expanded its scope to include just about every flavor of watch utility, aesthetic, and functionality one could dream of, all while keeping its price point extremely competi...

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2025

Explained: Dial Making at A. Lange & Söhne

Since its rebirth in 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has built an enviable reputation among collectors, based in large part on its rich portfolio of movements. Visiting the manufacture in Glashütte, it’s easy to see why; nearly all of the roughly 650 staff are engaged in some aspect of movement production. As a result, in little more than 30 years, Lange has commercialised 75 distinct calibers and has the manpower to apply a consistent level of finishing across the entire range, from the simple to the sublime. Historically, this single-minded focus on movements has meant that dials have often taken a back seat. Though uniformly high quality and made of noble materials like sterling silver and solid 18k gold, the brand’s dials tend to be simple, classical, and austere. An obvious exception that springs to mind is the sapphire crystal-dialed Lumen series, but sapphire crystal is a common material in watchmaking and these dials tend to be produced in a relatively industrial manner. Despite its focus on movements, Lange began to stretch its wings with artisanal dials as far back as the year 2000, first with enamel and later with mother-of-pearl, guilloché, tremblage, free-hand engraving, aventurine glass, and onyx. Most of these dials were produced by suppliers, but the brand has quietly built an immensely talented team of engravers and enamellists since launching the Handwerkskunst editions in 2011, and now crafts some of the industry’s most extraordinary dials within its own...

Introducing – Jiro Katayama Releases the Otsuka Lotec No.9 with In-House Tourbillon, Striking and Jumping Complications Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Sep 22, 2025

Introducing – Jiro Katayama Releases the Otsuka Lotec No.9 with In-House Tourbillon, Striking and Jumping Complications

As of now, and given the noise this brand has made in recent months, most seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the work of watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the man behind Japan’s sensation, Otsuka Lotec. A brand that focuses on original displays and industrial designs, we have, over the past few years, covered the No. […]