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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Grand Seiko Returns to an Iconic Red Dial with the SBGJ273 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Returns Sep 7, 2023

Grand Seiko Returns to an Iconic Red Dial with the SBGJ273

This isn’t exactly breaking news, but Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. Over the last few years, during a period of growth that those of us who were fans of the brand before they split off from Seiko could only have dreamed of, they’ve even been accused of spinning their wheels somewhat, releasing endless variants of variants, in a sea of interchangeable colors and case shapes. I think a case can probably be made that the collection could use some refining, and that fewer special editions might do the brand some good. But at the same time, I love that they give customers options. I think about a new, first time Grand Seiko buyer walking into a boutique and being able to choose from a selection of watches that is basically unmatched, getting exactly what they want, or pretty close to it in any case. One potential middle ground between a sudden halt to novelties and placing renewed attention on core models and continuing to move down the path they’re on currently is a release like the new SBGJ273, a dressy GMT with one of the brand’s best movements, and a dial that has proven to be an elusive fan favorite.  Before we get into the new watch, it’s worth examining one from a few years ago, the SBGH269. This watch, released in the fall of 2019 as a limited edition of 900, was meant to evoke the changing color of fall leaves with its red dial. Furthermore, the pattern on the dial, modeled after wood paneled floors, was completely unique to this reference. The comb...

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Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms SJX Watches
Blancpain Sep 7, 2023

Blancpain and Swatch Team Up on the $400 Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms

In a long expected move after the success of the MoonSwatch, Swatch with its sister brand Blancpain for another colourful wristwatch modelled on a historical timepiece. The Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms pays homage to Blancpain’s iconic dive watch of the same name, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. The Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection consists of five watches in different colours, each representing one of the five oceans of the world. Inside the plastic-ceramic composite case is a Sistem51 automatic movement, a nod to Blancpain’s historical motto of “Since 1735 there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch”. Priced at US$400, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting September 9, 2023.  The movement of each is decorated to match the model Initial thoughts On its face, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is a charming reinterpretation of Blancpain’s signature dive watch, making a historical model more accessible. Given the niche nature of the vintage original, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms will certainly not inspire the same fanatical enthusiasm as the MoonSwatch, but it will introduces Blancpain’s distinctive sports watch to a wider range of clients. Conversely, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms might not bring much advantage to Blancpain, a brand that has lost market share in its segment of luxury mechanical watches for a variety of reasons, none of which are alleviated by this launch. Furthermore, the new Swatch collaboration raises ques...

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The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II Worn & Wound
Sep 6, 2023

The US Open is Nearly Complete, Which Means Only a Few Days Left to Order the Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster II

The US Open, the professional tennis season’s final major tournament, is currently in its closing stages, which means you’re running out of time to purchase the watch seen here, the Rallymaster II by Maurice de Mauriac, made in partnership with Racquet magazine. This is a sequel to the original Rallymaster, released last year in conjunction with the French Open in a run of just 40 pieces. The quick sell out of that watch prompted the team behind it to make the next one a little more available, with a strategy this time of limited production: anyone who’d like to can order the watch, but only during the dates of the US Open. The tournament began on August 28, and the last match will be played on September 10 (this coming Sunday), at which point tennis fans will have to wait for what we imagine will be a Wimbledon or Australian Open themed watch, but that’s speculation for another day.  The Rallymaster II takes the whimsical, colorful formula of the first watch and spins it just slightly to accommodate a color palette that makes a little more sense for the marquee event in US tennis. The US Open, year after year, is a spectacle, drawing viewers both in-person and on television that might be only casual tennis fans, but can’t help but get caught up in the tournament’s inherent drama. A combination of the boisterous New York crowds, matches that stretch late into the evening, and competitors playing in top late season form always make for an exciting two weeks.  ...

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Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Sep 6, 2023

Laco Introduces the Atacama Quartz UTC, a True Tool No Matter How You Slice It

Doomsday preppers and the most hardcore of watch collectors are in for a real treat. German watch manufacturer Laco is doubling down on the success of its Atacama.2 by introducing the Atacama Quarz UTC. It’s a more affordable and focused watch with a new trick up its sleeve: GMT functionality. Primarily known for their excellent pilot watches, Laco has collaborated closely with German soldiers, firefighters, and other action-oriented professionals to hone their “Squad and Sport” timepieces. It only takes a glance to understand. You can learn a lot about this watch in its name. It’s still an Atacama, which means it shares the same PVD-coated treatment, date complication, rubber strap, unidirectional bezel, and matte dial as the Atacama.2. But now it’s powered by quartz, “Quarz” in German, and features an independent GMT – or UTC – hand. The new watch is 46mm in diameter, but the Ronda 515 GMT quartz movement inside has enabled Laco to slim the watch down to 10.5mm with a “contact area” of just 34mm. This is also in part due to the conical shape of the case, allowing the watch to feel much smaller and comfortable on the wrist than its maximum diameter may suggest. The use of black PVD-coating and generous amounts of lume on the hands, dial, and bezel result in a watch that is supremely legible to its wearer while remaining subdued to would-be onlookers (or enemies). The crown at twelve o-clock is integrated into and protected by the articulating lugs. D...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a Pair of New Dial Options for the Polaris Chronograph

First launched in the 1960’s, then resurrected in 2018, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has long been a standard-bearing watch for the luxury Swiss watchmaker. Now, five years on from the relaunch of the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre has reinvisioned the watch in two new ways. Recently, the brand has added two new signature dials to new Polaris Chronograph line-up that not only showcase the artisanal craftsmanship of the house, but also raises the question of when does a sports watch become a piece of art? Each watch in the new collection displays the technical precision that has become synonymous with the brand. The two dials – a rich blue and a sporty gray – are made from applying lacquer to the dial, giving these timepieces a richness that nicely juxtaposes the 42mm steel case. The lacquered finish works as a backdrop to a complex dial that packs a punch, including a well-balanced set of subdials at 3 o’clock (featuring a 30-minute timer) and a running seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The entire dial is encompassed in an outer ring that is marked with the tachymeter scale while both variants are accented in a pleasantly contrasting orange.  On the reverse of the watch is a sapphire crystal caseback which reveals the automatic Calibre 761 movement, which houses a generous 65-hour power reserve. The final touches of this movement include blued screws and Côtes de Genève decoration on the baseplate as well as on the signature open-worked winding rotor bearing the ‘JL...

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Brew x Worn & Wound Sep 5, 2023

Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators

Normal is boring. Normal is not original. Normal is never pushing boundaries. People are not normal. People are unique. People are all limited editions of one. Not being normal has always been in the DNA of Brew Watch Company, founded by Jonathan Ferrer. This is why we’ve covered Brew on Worn & Wound since its launch back in 2015. When other brands were sticking to round cases, Brew went rectangular. When other brands were focused on mid-century divers, Brew made watches inspired by the joy of coffee. Brew didn’t zig when others zagged, because they were never on the same road to begin with. The post Introducing the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulators appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Does All Black Ceramic for the Royal Oak Supersonnerie

Audemars Piguet turned to an unorthodox material for its latest striking timepiece, the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in black ceramic. Introduced in two variations, one with white gold markers and the other with baguette-diamond indices, the monochromatic new reference is the next step in this historic brand’s long history of chiming watches.  Initial thoughts Overall, this is an excellent update to a watch that was already very good. The original Royal Oak Supersonnerie is entirely in titanium, a lightweight metal with good acoustic qualities, and has very subtle aesthetics with a smoked grey dial. In contrast, the new all-black ceramic repeater feels more modern and in-line with what we have come to expect from Audemars Piguet, especially for the Royal Oak that has always been available in unconventional materials ranging from carbon composite to BMG. The inherent contradiction of an extremely expensive striking watch in a material not usually suited for transmitting sound is obvious. Yet it is also logical since it demonstrates the function of the brand’s proprietary Supersonnerie amplifying system that arguably transcends the case material. The titanium Supersonnie strikes loud and clear, but we have yet to hear the ceramic repeater strike in real life. It would certainly be interesting to have them both side-by-side to compare. While the brand already has several Royal Oak models with bracelets in ceramic, the new repeater is debuted only on a rubber s...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG

Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021.  Initial thoughts While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial. What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202. Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be ...

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Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera As we celebrate Sep 5, 2023

Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera

As we celebrate the opening of our Melbourne Watch Discovery Studio, what better time to help TAG Heuer celebrate the 60th anniversary of their iconic Carrera? Whether it’s Ryan Gosling’s charming mug speeding away in a vintage Porsche or TAG Heuer’s latest and greatest Carrera Glassbox and Skipper pieces, the Time+Tide retail team will help … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio showcases the TAG Heuer Carrera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Sep 4, 2023

We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It

Ever see a watch and just can’t get it out of your head? Of course you have – it’s a common side effect of the hobby. Sometimes, for reasons we can’t quite wrap our arms around, a watch becomes something we fixate on. It could be uncommonly beautiful, or genuinely unique, or some combination of the two. Or it could be for an entirely different reason altogether. The point is: some watches have a way of lingering in our brains long after we’ve first seen them, and like a pop song that gets stuck in your head, sometimes you just have to give yourself over to it.  For Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan, few watches have come along in recent years that are more emblematic of this idea than the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter. It made its debut, somewhat under the radar, during Watches & Wonders 2022, and ever since then has been an object of obsession, mystery, and genuine fascination. It’s come up on the podcast, inspired editorials, and has taken up space in our brains rent free for months.  Recently, we finally were able to see one in the metal (actually, ceramic), so of course we wanted to document the experience on video. This strange watch, with a dial featuring a total of five timing scales in a layout that seems designed to intentionally make you think about “closing the rings” is without a doubt one of the weirdest new watches we’ve seen from a major brand in recent years. Is it a pilot’s watch? A doctor’s watch? A very manual health and fitness tra...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre gives Sep 4, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer

Five years on, the Polaris Chronograph gets a subtle update with new dials and movements Dials now feature 35 layers of hand-applied clear lacquer as well as a new light grey colour variant The new Calibre 761 boasts a running seconds feature in place of a 12-hour counter It’s easy to forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s modern … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre gives the Polaris Chronograph a tasteful lick of lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Introducing Sep 4, 2023

A New Complication for Kurono Tokyo: Introducing the GMT 1, with the Miyota 9075 Movement

We probably should have seen this one coming: the new watch from Kurono Tokyo, the affordable offshoot of Hajime Asaoka’s eponymous and very high end independent brand, is a GMT equipped with the new Miyota 9075 movement. This is a new complication for Kurono, and it makes sense that the brand waited to launch a GMT until an affordable, Japanese made, caliber with local jumping hours became available. The new watch, dubbed simply the Kurono GMT 1, feels very much of a piece with other recent Kurono releases, simply extending Asaoka’s Art Deco infused design codes with some new functionality.  The conceit of this watch, according to Asaoka, is that a GMT is a complication highly desired by those traveling the world for business purposes, but watches that are equipped with this feature often find themselves in the sport category. While I think any serious watch lover can probably poke a few holes in that theory, it led Asaoka to create an apologetically not a traditional sports watch. Like all Kurono watches, this is an aesthetic object first and foremost, with design flourishes that exist simply to look good, rather than serve any specific functional purpose. The watch was also designed with conservative “business” fashion in mind, which from Asaoka’s perspective hasn’t changed a whole lot through the years, which lends the GMT 1 a traditional look that, while not vintage inspired, wouldn’t look out of place in the 1950s or 60s.  The dial features multiple s...

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The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears Time+Tide
Fears Sep 4, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears

Keeping the excitement of our new Melbourne Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio opening its doors to the public going, we’re delighted to introduce the latest newcomer to the Time+Tide Shop – British watchmakers Fears. Apart from actually making good watches, heritage and the story behind the company are often regarded as the strongest marketing tools for … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop welcomes the understated elegance of Fears appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tissot Goes Retro with the PRX Digital SJX Watches
Tissot Goes Retro Sep 4, 2023

Tissot Goes Retro with the PRX Digital

Following the recent introduction of scaled-down automatic models, the Tissot PRX lineup takes a decidedly nostalgic turn with the PRX Digital. A slightly more refined take on the digital wristwatch, the new PRX captures the future as seen from the late 1980s with a streamlined LCD display and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts  The PRX in all its flavours has proven popular thanks to a vintage-inspired design that caters perfectly to today’s taste for integrated bracelets. A retro-style quartz watch with an LCD screen, however, is unexpected but appealing in its thoughtful design that doesn’t try to do too much and is just right. For a mechanical-watch enthusiast, the PRX Digital is a diversion, but one that’s fun and affordable. On its face, the new PRX immediately evokes Casio’s lineup of digital watches on bracelets (namely the A171WEG-9AEF and A171WE-1AEF). The Japanese brand is clearly the market leader in affordable digital watches, but the PRX Digital is a step up in terms of branding and presentation, as opposed to Casio’s primarily utilitarian approach (though Casio’s upscale G-Shock models are another matter).  At US$375 for steel models and US$75 more for the gold-plated variants, the PRX Digital is pricier than its Casio counterparts. This premium is significant, but justified in part by the slightly more upscale feel of the PRX and of course the “Swiss made” provenance. However, it’s worth noting Casio trumps Tissot in terms of tech: t...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature Time+Tide
Bausele Galvin Sep 4, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature

For as many watch enthusiasts as we have here, Australia is lacking somewhat when it comes to home-grown brands. Of course we have Bausele, Galvin, and the not-so-subtly-named Melbourne Watch Company, though none of these designs have much to offer in terms of Australian-inspired design traits. Nullarbor, this week’s feature on Micro Mondays, aims to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel Sep 3, 2023

Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX

Breguet is not like other watch brands. I say this not to simply point out that their products are distinct within the market, but rather to define their guiding philosophy, which ultimately informs their products, that also sets them apart. Sure, other watch brands have celebrated namesakes. Few, if any, are more celebrated than Abraham-Louis … ContinuedThe post Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca shares 3 key insights into the future of the Type XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings Sep 3, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection

Panerai are generally not a brand to depart from their established successes, usually riffing around the same ideas for years with subtle tweaks and colour options. That’s not a bad thing by any means, as the jumbo-sized cushion case watches are as iconic as they come. However, every now and again, they break some new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni brings a new case finish to the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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