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Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Sep 20, 2024

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

In January 2023, Zenith released the first Defy Skyline Boutique Edition. The release flew under the radar for most watch fans, but it was a stylish version of Zenith’s popular integrated-bracelet sports watch. Later that year, the brand unveiled a boutique-only version of the Defy Skyline Skeleton as well. Now it’s time for the third […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition to read the full article.

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme SJX Watches
Sep 20, 2024

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme

Announced a month ago, IAMWATCH is a three-day event centred on independent watchmaking that encompasses lectures, classes, and panel discussions. Taking place in Singapore from October 18 to 20 at the Edition hotel, Iamwatch has just revealed its programme for the event, which promises three full days – from breakfast to sundown drinks – of watches, watchmakers, and watch industry personalities. Entry is free but registration online is required. Boldface names attending the event include independent watchmakers Felix Baumgartner, Konstantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi; watch entrepreneurs Jean-Claude Biver, Manuel Emch, Maximilian Büsser, and Jean Arnault; and auctioneers Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines. Konstantin Chaykin, Felix Baumgartner, and Rexhep Rexhepi Each day begins with a breakfast hosted by industrial notables, including Maximilian Büsser on October 19. The breakfast is followed by a full schedule, including daily lectures about history and horology by historian David Rooney, author of About Time, a history of timekeeping. Jean Arnault, Aurel Bacs, and Manuel Emch Afternoons include classes on various topics, including Jean-Claude Biver on being a watchmaking entrepreneur – a pitch perfect match of speaker and subject if there ever was one. Panel discussions take place daily as well, including one dedicated to independent watchmaking on the final day, October 20, moderated by myself with Felix Baumgartner, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi ...

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines, somehow, still feels slept on to me. In the hierarchy or Swatch Group brands, they sit in a place where they really should be insanely popular with enthusiasts and the mass market alike, but somehow they often feel like a brand struggling to break into the wider conversation. To be fair, I have no idea about the relative commercial success Longines has experienced over these last few years – it’s quite possible that everyone at Longines and Swatch are quite happy with their performance. Anecdotally, though, I just don’t see them on wrists very often, either at local neighborhood watch meetups, or in the wild. And that’s kind of a shame, because whenever I actually spend time with a Longines watch, I come away feeling impressed. I’ve long held that they do vintage reissues better than just about anyone. Whoever has the job of raiding the archives and picking watches to resurface from the brand’s long history has impeccable taste, and an innate understanding of the watches that hit the center of the Venn Diagram covering “aesthetically interesting” and “historically important.” They’ve done a great job of telling the brand’s story with a string of excellent heritage releases.  But Longines is too big, of course, to just release vintage inspired watches, so in a moment a few years back when it was clear that the heritage gravy train wasn’t going to run forever, they introduced the Spirit collection. An entirely new line, the Spirit watches...

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Sep 19, 2024

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition

The MIH, or Musée International d’Horlogerie (International Watchmaking Museum), is a must-see for anyone interested in the history of horology. This institution gathers a museum, a restoration workshop, and a research centre, and houses a vast collection of about 10,000 conserved objects. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the MIH’s residence in its […]

MIH Marks 50 Years with the Gaïa III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary SJX Watches
Louis Erard Excellence Sep 19, 2024

MIH Marks 50 Years with the Gaïa III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary

Originally launched in 2019 as a fundraising exercise for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the Gaïa wristwatch is returning for the museum’s 50th anniversary this year. The MIH is marking the occasion with a pair of watches, the Gaïa Series III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary, both limited editions that will help fund restoration work and promotional activities at the museum. The two watches share the unique design of earlier Gaïa editions, but now the dials are engraved. Notably, the Gaïa 50th Anniversary (pictured above) has a guilloche dial that’s hand made by Georges Brodbeck, a veteran guillocheur whose workshop was acquired by Voutilainen two years ago. The Gaïa Series III with a laser engraved dial Initial thoughts As with the earlier Gaïa watches, the new pair are a great way to support one of Switzerland’s leading watch and clock museums. But the Gaïa is not just a charity project, it is an appealing and well-priced watch. The price has risen slightly, from CHF2,900 for the original to CHF3,400 for the Gaïa III, but the increase is modest relative to the watch industry as a whole, and the watch remains a value buy. The Gaïa anniversary is twice the price at over CHF5,000, but still value considering the hand-made guilloche dial. It’s one of the handful of watches in this price range with a traditional engine-turned dial, plus it has an unusual time display and case. The closest comparison is the Louis Erard Excellence that is less expensi...

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement

A flyback countdown chronograph with a date at 9 o’clock and a 3Hz beat rate… A mic-drop meme would be enough now to introduce the seemingly unique Airin Regatta Chronograph that resurfaced in France. I have been following French graphic designer and watch collector David Renou, aka @Super.Compressor on Instagram, for quite some time now. […] Visit #TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement to read the full article.

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm, Now in White or on Steel Bracelet Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm Sep 19, 2024

First Look – The Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm, Now in White or on Steel Bracelet

One of Hamilton’s claims to fame is its enviable presence in Hollywood movies. Since its screen debut in the 1932 hit Shanghai Express, Hamilton’s watches have starred in over 500 movies and TV shows. In 2014, Hamilton played a crucial role in Christopher Nolan’s sci-fi masterpiece, Interstellar, by producing a watch especially for the movie. The custom-made […]

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Calibre 11 in Titanium Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Sep 19, 2024

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Calibre 11 in Titanium

Racing green… Probably one of the most emblematic colours in motorsport. We have to remember that, in the early days of car racing, colours were not just decorative, but racing drivers competed with liveries representing their country – Italian red, German silver, French blue (featured in last year’s limited edition) and, of course, British racing […]

Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green

I have a weird, ambivalent relationship with the TAG Heuer Monaco. While I am a great fan of its design and legacy, I am not a fan of the actual watch on my wrist. Or at least, I wasn’t. That’s why I was a little apprehensive when going into this hands-on review. The Monaco’s square […] Visit Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Should You Wear Your Watch While Playing Sports Or Exercising? Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

Fratello Talks: Should You Wear Your Watch While Playing Sports Or Exercising?

Welcome back to Fratello Talks. Should you wear your watch while playing sports or exercising? It’s a question we often hear. What could the possible risks be for your beloved mechanical timepiece? Or is there no real reason to be worried at all? In today’s episode, Nacho, RJ, and Lex explore these questions and speak […] Visit Fratello Talks: Should You Wear Your Watch While Playing Sports Or Exercising? to read the full article.

First Look – The New “Night-time Tokyo” Editions of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Monochrome
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time While Sep 19, 2024

First Look – The New “Night-time Tokyo” Editions of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

While the Presage collection by Seiko is mostly known for its Craftsmanship Series, elegant watches that pay tribute to Japan thanks to traditionally crafted dials, there’s another sub-range that shouldn’t be overlooked: Presage Cocktail Time. Inspired by Japan’s capital city’s nightlife, with dials designed after specifically created cocktails, this represents the audacious yet accessible side […]

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster John F Kennedy Sep 18, 2024

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph

Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...

G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries

With the release of G-SHOCK’s latest references, you can tell that the brand is in it for the long haul. Ten years, to be exact. Yes, you read that right – G-SHOCK is promising a ten-year battery life on their latest GA-010 and GD-010 watch series. I mean, maybe we should be getting through this election cycle before we start thinking too far into the future, but if the Jetsons and those Treehouse of Horror episodes of The Simpsons indicate anything, there’s a promise of flying cars, teleporting devices, and sassy robots with a Brooklyn accent to look forward to. And, right by my side will be my old pal, my G-SHOCK. Utilizing the standard faceted case design, both collections – and all six references total – take the best of G-SHOCK technology to build a watch that is shock absorbing, extra rugged, and water resistant up to 200 meters. Between the GA-010 and GD-010 models, you’ll see that each watch offers something different. For the GD-010, you’ll find an LCD display featuring many of the standard digital features for G-SHOCK, like world time, stop watch, and an auto-calendar. The GA-010 ups the ante with a combination of both analog and digital components. Tonally speaking, these watches do a great job of being subdued without being boring. Colors among the references range from black, orange, and green (for the GD-010) to taupe, blue, and black (GA-010). This is a great design choice, considering you’ll want something that will still be in style for yea...

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements

When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

Introducing – The New Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Sep 18, 2024

Introducing – The New Czapek Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Czapek orchestrated its launch through an equity crowdfunding campaign funded mainly by watch aficionados. As a brand with its ear to the ground, Czapek listens closely to its friends and shareholders and, in 2020, responded to their request for a luxury sports watch. Incarnated by the Antarctique, Czapek’s first luxury sports watch was also powered […]

Hands-On With The Updated Oris Aquis Upcycle Fratello
Oris Aquis Upcycle Oris released Sep 18, 2024

Hands-On With The Updated Oris Aquis Upcycle

Oris released its redesigned Aquis line in April at Watches and Wonders 2024. Included in that update were three sizes of Aquis Upcycle with dials made of recycled PET ocean plastic. I had a few opportunities to interact with all of the new Aquis models, and each time, I kept returning to the Upcycles. The […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated Oris Aquis Upcycle to read the full article.

Introducing the New 2024 Raven Trekker Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sep 18, 2024

Introducing the New 2024 Raven Trekker

It's hard to believe it's been over a decade since the Raven Trekker was introduced to the watch world. Back then, it was a watch I read about constantly, and I was always drawn to the value the watch presented as an early collector. Over the years, it's been a pleasure to see Steve Laughlin's brand grow-as it brought us hits like the Venture and newer co-branded projects like the TrailTrekker. But in my eyes, the Trekker has always stood at the heart of his brand. We were always hungry to see how the model would grow with each new iteration, and now, Raven has announced the latest 2024 lineup of Raven Trekker models along with a version that calls back to an earlier Raven model-the Raven Vintage.

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here Worn & Wound
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono though very Sep 17, 2024

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here

“In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.” It’s been 235 years since Ben Franklin wrote those words, and I think it’s fair to say he pretty much hit the nail on the head with them. That said, he lived in a different time, so I’d like to offer an update for 2024. “In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes, and new Seikos.” Isn’t that better? For the last five years or so, Seiko has slowly been expanding its lineup of mechanical chronographs, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its line of automatic Prospex Speedtimers. Last year, we saw that line expand with the introduction of the 1970s-inspired SRQ047 and limited edition SRQ049. This year, Seiko is building on that model’s success with a fresh pair of reverse panda–dialed chronographs, the SRQ051 and SRQ053. The mechanical Prospex Speedtimer lineup is split into two distinct designs, a slightly dressier bi-register design somewhat reminiscent of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono, though very much an interpretation of Seiko’s original chronograph, the 5719, and a tri-register layout with a sportier case. The SRQ051 and SRQ053 belong to the latter group and feel like the big brother to the immensely popular Solar Speedtimer chronographs we’ve seen iterated upon in the last few years. These latest Seiko chronographs are well-sized, measuring 42mm across, 14.6mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. Having spent some time with last year’s models,...

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Sep 17, 2024

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review

I’ve been covering and getting to know the team at Baltic watches for about half a decade now, and in those five years I have watched the brand – with founder Etienne Malec at the helm – transform itself from “microbrand,” playing in the vintage-inspired sandbox, to venerable player in the game, full stop. Where we once heard the Baltic name and immediately thought of watches like the Aquascaphe or Bicompax chronograph, the intervening years have seen launches like the MR-01 micro-rotor model, and the Prismic (foreshadowing) with sprinkles of appearances at Only Watch thrown in for good measure. Returning to the Prismic, that watch debuted earlier this year and represented a venture into fresh territory for a company mostly known for producing tool watches (the MR-01 being the lone prior exception). So when I walked into the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland during Watches & Wonders this year to say hello to my pals at Baltic, I expected to see the entire current catalog and get my hands on those Prismics which I did not yet get a chance to see in person.  Little did I know that they would have three surprises on hand… in April… nearly six months before they were et to be released. I am, of course, talking about the three new limited additions to the Prismic lineup which launched this week. They take the same case construction as the existing models – 36mm wide by 9.2mm tall – but pack a real punch by way of the dials. Where the standard Prismic ...