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Quill & Pad
'Fifty Fathoms: The History as Told by the Pioneers Who Created It' is a fast-moving, 30-minute documentary recounting the development of the world's first diver's watch told by the people who created it. Even non-divers are quite likely to enjoy this video.
Monochrome
With the classic car season in full swing, it’s no surprise we get to see a few new special editions to celebrate automotive culture one way or another. One of the brands to have close ties to vintage motorsports and rallying events is Union Glashütte. The German manufacturer regularly updates models from its Noramis and […]
Fratello
Time flies when you’re having retro fun, doesn’t it? With an original introduction date a full decade ago, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection feels like a brand staple. I have always found the chronograph version to be one of the more appealing models. Well, today is my lucky day because I get to go hands-on […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph In Silver And Ocean Green to read the full article.
SJX Watches
One of the year’s best summer watches, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Mint Green Ceramic is a fresh interpretation of the brand’s signature collection. Housed in a 42 mm case clad in candy-like, mint green ceramic, the Big Bang Unico features Hublot’s top-of-the-line HUB1280 flyback chronograph movement with an unusual, dial-side integrated construction. While technically identical to other ceramic Big Bang watches, the new mint green colour is unusually fun and approachable. This new edition of the Big Bang joins the permanent collection, and extends the brand’s industry-leading range of coloured ceramic watches. Initial thoughts Hublot is a brand that tends to elicit visceral polarisation among collectors, and it’s easy to see why. The bold designs are seen as outrageous by some, and the pricing puts them out of reach for those focused on maximising their horological dollar. But Hublot has outgrown its early reputation as a Royal Oak imitator and found its own identity, in part through its leadership in ceramics and willingness to experiment with design and colour. In this case, the mint green colour looks great, and considering the glossy finish, it looks almost like candy. This gives the watch a friendly countenance that results in an amusing tension with the overtly masculine, technical structure of the case and design of the dial, with its stencil-like hour markers. The Big Bang collection is all about its signature architectural case, and the mint green editio...
Monochrome
Following the natural path an hour or minute hand takes over a dial, in most watches, at least, it’s a simple fact of form-follows-function that the vast majority of watches are round. But what if you want to stand out a bit and play around with shapes and sizes? Well, to answer what could happen […]
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Quill & Pad
Depth matters. And as experienced divers often like to go deep for as long as possible, decompression is a serious issue. The problem with mechanical depth gauges on watches is that they are usually either precise at depth (but not in the 12-meter decompression zone) or in the decompression zone (but not at depth). Dietmar Fuchs takes a deep dive into mechanical depth gauge watches and shares his thoughts and experiences here.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. SPLASHDOWN While you might know the story of how the Omega Speedmaster became the official Moonwatch, you might know the story of Navy-UDT Frogman who were tasked with safely recovering astronauts as they returned to Earth. Just as the astronauts relied upon their speedmasters, the UDT Frogmen had their own piece of critical time keeping kit: the Tudor Submariner 7928. While these divers would preform critical roles in supporting Nasa’s splashdown recovery program, their story remained largely untold, until now. On Thursday, June 24th, Tudor unveiled a short film dedicated to these men, aptly titled “Splashdown: The Little-Known Story of Navy Frogmen and the Space Program”. Featuring members of the team, their family, and even Jack Carr, the short film can be watched on Tudor’s website alongside various historical images. Little Camera, Big Punch Yashica, a Japanese camera company, has announced their newest compact camera, the City 300. Similar in size to a point-and-shoot camera or the Ricoh family of cameras, the new City 300 combines a 50MP sensor, a fast F/1.8 lens, and what appears to be a flip/tilt screen; all for an estimated US retail price of $4...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier. Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...
Fratello
You don’t realize you want it if you can’t imagine it. Luckily, free-spirited watch brands like Konstantin Chaykin and Behrens have enormous imagination. When they collaborate, they reach new levels of watch madness. These two brands worked together for the first time three years ago and have joined forces again to create something that perfectly […] Visit Introducing Some More Watch Madness: The Behrens × Konstantin Chaykin “Ace Of Hearts” In Three Materials to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s funny how one’s everyday carry (EDC) can change in just a few years. Even though I have been applying the “buy once, cry once” philosophy for many years, it seems I cry more often than I would have thought. Many things from my 2022 EDC article have either been replaced or moved to the […] Visit Fratello EDC: RJ Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Porter-Yoshida, Leica, Dupont, Persol, and More to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
The second edition of biennial Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives is now well underway, and the 20 semi-finalists have been announced. The candidate pool is exceptionally diverse, with makers hailing from eight different countries and espousing a variety of different product philosophies. The watch prize is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, who leads Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking initiatives. A passionate supporter of independent watchmaking, Mr Arnault created the watch prize in 2023 to recognise talented watchmakers and designers and give one lucky winner a helping hand. Raúl Pagès won the first edition of the watch prize. Image – Louis Vuitton Initial thoughts I try not to put too much stock in the various prizes that are handed out in the watch industry. Many such contests suffer from a lack of participation, a problem that makes it difficult to take the results seriously. That said, it’s worth paying attention to the Louis Vuitton watch prize for a few reasons. First, it’s unusually inclusive, welcoming entrants from all over the world, ranging from journeymen watchmakers like Bernhard Zwinz and David Candaux to emergent Chinese brands like Behrens and Fam Al Hut. Second, the candidate pool is not sub-divided into arbitrary categories, meaning there’s plenty of competition to keep things interesting. Finally, the outcome is meaningful – the winner gets a €150,000 cash prize and a one-year mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps with Michel Nava...
Worn & Wound
Is it too late to dub the summer of 2025 “Black Watch Summer”? That might be how I remember this particular season. The watch I’ve worn most, by far, as the temps have soared is my Ming 37.09 “Uni,” a blacked out void of a watch if ever there was one. And a few weeks ago at Windup I purchased my first vintage watch in ages, a DLC coated Favre-Leuba chronograph that I couldn’t pass on. And now, as we’re fully in the dog days, I sit here with the new Aera Instruments M-1 Blackbird on my wrist, another cool, sleek, blacked out watch that bolsters the notion that Aera is one of the most interesting accessible indies of the moment. I reviewed Aera’s D-1 dive watch a few years ago, and the tone of that review was one of pleasant surprise. At the time, the brand was in the midst of launching their second collection, and from the photos and press materials I had seen, I was struggling to make sense of why this brand needed to exist. That might seem like a harsh standard, but we live in a period where it’s incredibly easy to churn out incredibly generic sports watches for minimal money and talent that absolutely no one needs. The whole point of this website, as I see it, is to find the stuff that has a real reason to be made because it offers something different. So I was surprised to find that the D-1 subverted my expectations by flipping the idea of a dive watch on its head. It kind of looks like a generic dive watch at a glance, but every single detail is act...
Worn & Wound
I occasionally find myself looking for a good excuse to write about some of my favorite watches, as doing so with some context feels too self-satisfying. This excuse can be a guide, a group editorial, or, as in the case today, a marginally new version of an existing watch that I adore, but haven’t had the chance to divulge my feelings on adequately. That watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, as today, Lange has announced the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold. While certainly exciting for people who said, “If only this watch came in rose gold” as a topic for a whole article, a new case metal is a bit lacking. Conveniently, I have a lot to say about the Zeitwerk in general. There was a time not that long ago when asked what my “grail watch” was, my default answer was the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Why? Few watches mix the classic and the contemporary quite so well. They’re unique, handsome, and ooze tasteful luxury. They aren’t blingy or ostentatious. Additionally, nearly any watch enthusiast appreciates them, so it was an answer that didn’t require much explanation. However, as my knowledge of watches has grown, another aspect has emerged that I find fascinating: the complexity it takes to create something that seems so simple. If jump hours are a rare complication, jump minutes are unicorns. The only other I’m aware of is the IWC Tribute to Pallweber. Although the idea seems simple enough, making a disk jump once a minute, two disks every ten, and three disk...
Teddy Baldassarre
When it comes to watch consumers' interest, there has over the past several years been a rising level of interest in watch brands that deviate from what might be viable for the mass market luxury watch brands but appeal to a niche but passionate audience. These so-called microbrands have represented one of the fastest-growing segments of the mechanical watch market, in which small shops can produce quality products that compete for connoisseurs' attention with the titans of the business. In the past several years, we've handled hundreds of watches from different microbrands out there; In this blog, we take a closer look at some of the best microbrand watches that the market has to offer in a variety of price ranges. What makes a Microbrand Watch? Now first, it is important to try to best classify what a microbrand is and what it isn’t. To me, a microbrand is a limited-production watch company that typically specializes in a particular style that does not have extensive resources to produce its own in-house calibers or other proprietary parts. This classification can get a little grey in the area of independent watchmakers that typically either have higher levels of watchmaking, like a Habring2, who have a master watchmaker like Richard Habring at the helm, or are a brand like Christopher Ward, who produce a high number of pieces and has in-house production capacities. The Best Microbrand Watches: The Latest Additions Santurce A microbrand with a strong Puerto Rican per...
Monochrome
Chopard, for most of our readers, is the name behind collections such as the Mille Miglia, the Alpine Eagle, and the top-end L.U.C watches, products overseen by co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. With its own foundry and jewellery workshop in Geneva, the feminine side of the brand, represented by high jewellery collections and women’s watches, is in […]
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Time+Tide
If you're in London, you won't want to miss these exceptionally rare and complex timepieces on display at IWC.The post IWC take a trunk show of high horology masterpieces on the road across the UK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Thanks to its bezel, as Dietmar W. Fuchs explains, the diver's watch is a much more versatile timepiece than many people think. Aside from teaching you how to use it on land, in the skies, and under water, here he answers the perennial question of who made the first true diver's watch: Blancpain, Rolex, or Panerai.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. This week, we continue our series of lists highlighting the best releases of the first half of the year. In this specific article, we’re focusing on our top five complicated watches. They all stand out because of their technical brilliance. But that brilliance would be for nothing if the watches didn’t […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 - Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne refreshes its arguably most avant-garde collection with the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold matched with a dark grey dial. The new Zeitwerk Date joins the existing model in white gold as a regular production model, and retains the L043.8 movement featuring the signature digital time display driven by a constant force mechanism. The Zeitwerk Date is one of Lange’s simplest watches in terms of information displayed – just the time and date – but stands out as one of the brand’s most technically complex creations. Despite the low volume of production and esoteric mechanics, the Zeitwerk is also one of Lange’s most iconic models, alongside the Lange 1 and Datograph, thanks to its striking design that departs from the usual aesthetics of the normally staid brand. Initial Thoughts While the original Zeitwerk Date in white gold was the first of the second-generation Zeitwerk, bringing with it sweeping changes to the Zeitwerk movement, the new model is stylistic variation that serves to fill a gap in the collection. It offers more choice (actually just a binary choice) for someone looking for a Zeitwerk that is more complex than the base model, but not ready to go all the way to the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that costs five times as much. The original Zeitwerk Date was a good, perhaps even great, watch inside and out, and this is too – though it could probably could have come a little sooner. It’s still a large watch, but the bulk is easy to justify consi...
Fratello
In 2009, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne surprised the world with a mechanical digital watch based on a clock in an opera house in Dresden. A decade later, the watchmakers from Glashütte in Saxonia presented an even more digital version of that watch, the white gold Zeitwerk Date. Why was it more digital? […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial to read the full article.
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Fratello
When I think of CIGA Design, the first thing that immediately comes to mind is the brand’s highly successful Blue Planet. The watch is not only instantly recognizable, but it has also won numerous prizes. Still, there is another side to the CIGA Design that is far more modern and futuristic. The new Z Series […] Visit Introducing: The Futuristic CIGA Design Z Series Hunter Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
It’s dark, it’s stealthy, and it’s bold. But it’s a lot of fun! The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Shadow is built for those who love some adventure. So we put it to the test… What We Love The muted matte shadow look The lightweight construction The ease of wear for a larger watch What We Don’t Lack of micro-adjust The ‘give’ in the bezel The taper of the bracelet isn’t as balanced as it could be Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The Zenith Diver dates back to the early 1960s when the Le Locle brand designed and released the Super Sub Sea. But, it wasn’t until 1969 when the Defy Diver was released that Zenith had hit on a good thing. The Defy A3648 was a bold watch, and its design codes echoed those of the time. This watch is what the Zenith Defy Diver Revival is modelled after, which Mario took out for a spin last year. However, Zenith didn’t have a deep diver or saturation dive watch like many others out there. Think of the likes of the Rolex Sea-Dweller and the Omega Planet Ocean. So last year, the brand released a new watch – the Defy Extreme Diver in both blue and black colourways that would recify the gap in the market. It had all the hallmarks of the Zenith Defy range, closely mirroring that of the Defy Skyline, but just a little more bold and robust. So it was no surprise that the brand looked at this watch, along with the A3648 and decided to release a pair of “Shadow” e...
Worn & Wound
Just over a month ago, several of our contributors, myself included, penned an article about our favorite summer watches. While we each had a personal preference and strong reasoning behind our choices, it got me thinking about my summer EDC, and how it changes as temps begin to rise. Throughout winter and spring, I tend to carry larger pocket knives, but I find myself reaching for lighter options as the temperature and humidity increases. While they’re just as capable as anything else, these lighter blades carry more comfortably in shorts, and I even forget I’m carrying them sometimes. With this in mind, I thought it might be a good idea to list out some of my favorite summer EDC knives and why I reach for them. Before we dive in, let’s look over the parameters I used to select these knives. I think one of the most ambiguous qualities that I’ll talk about is “lightweight”. While there isn’t a set standard and everyone is likely to have their own opinions, I’m using 2.5 ounces (70ish grams for my metric friends) as my max weight. As I’d come to find out while verifying the weight of my included knives, many of the staple EDC options fall under this weight! Using this weight also prevents me from sneaking in some of those heavier knives that I enjoy so much. Secondly, the knife has to be safe to carry in your pocket. While a single utility blade is very lightweight, having an exposed, sharp edge in your pocket just seems like a terrible idea. Along these l...
Worn & Wound
I can remember the exact moment I realized that Audemars Piguet was not the brand for me: I was listening to an episode of Hodinkee Radio in early 2019 featuring an interview with then current AP CEO François-Henry Bennahmias during which he boasted that he does not read books. For whatever skills Bennahmias has as an executive, and whatever objectively nice qualities come through in the watches made under his tenure with the brand, something about this statement immediately turned me off. In the parlance of 2025, you’d say it gave me “the ick.” Over the last few years, I’ve thought about this moment a lot as integrated bracelet sports watch mania has waxed and waned, and my own taste has solidified somewhat. Back in 2019, my exposure to Royal Oaks was fairly limited. I basically knew what watch media and the burgeoning watch collector’s scene on Instagram told me. And the narrative, by and large, was that these were the crème de la crème of the high end, a watch that every collector should strive to own. In those days, it really was that simple: there were a handful of watches from big brands that seemed to be on everyone’s hit list at one time or another. The Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Royal Oak. It was drilled into my head, and all of our heads, that watches like this – the icons – were worthy of our universal devotion. I eventually owned both a Speedmaster and a Submariner. Both of which, I’d eventually realize, were not for me for a vari...
Monochrome
It’s not every day we get to learn about and share news on potentially groundbreaking new watchmaking concepts. But today, we have something very special lined up, and what’s even more satisfying, it’s Dutch-made! Self-taught watchmaker Machiel Hulsman is presenting his latest concept watch, stepping away from uniquely engineered and crafted bespoke pieces. While it […]
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