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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 18, 2025

The Quintessential American-Made Watch Movement in a Smaller Case: Int

RGM Watch Company, named for the initials of its founder, independent watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, is the first American watch company to serially produce a mechanical watch movement since 1969 — the year that Lancaster, PA-based Hamilton pulled up stakes for its current HQ in Switzerland. Murphy, formerly Hamilton’s Technical Manager, founded his own eponymous company in Lancaster County, a historical hotbed of watchmaking, in 1992. His fledgling firm made the watch industry, and the worldwide watch-enthusiast community, take notice when it created, essentially from scratch, the groundbreaking Caliber 801 in 2007 —  a horological milestone that no other watchmaker in the United States had achieved in nearly 40 years.  Since then, Caliber 801 has come to define RGM’s distinctive and still very exclusive product family — the brand still makes only around 300 pieces annually — along with its dedication to classically vintage aesthetics, which evoke the bygone days when America reigned supreme as a watchmaking nation. Up until now, however, the smallest RGM watch you could get that housed the Caliber 801 movement, 90 percent of which is made in the U.S.A. and finished and assembled in Lancaster County, was 42mm — not huge, but still a bit intimidating for some would-be owners as case sizes continue to trend smaller. This week, RGM answers that constituency's prayers with the release of the Caliber 801/40 model, whose 40mm stainless steel case represents, accor...

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Christopher Ward s new C60 Lumiére Sep 15, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep 89: Sinn for the Win(n)!

On episode 89 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss checks out a trilogy of new releases. First up, from the UK is Christopher Ward’s new C60 Lumiére. Featuring big blocks of Globolight, it’s a lume fiend’s dream. Next is a new and long-awaited Sinn, the 156.1, a follow-up to an iconic Sinn with an exciting history. Last, but not least, are the Louis Erard x Stefan Kudoke Le Regulateurs. A collaboration with an indie star, these watches bring a refined aesthetic to Louis Erard’s regulator watches. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep 89: Sinn for the Win(n)! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton would have Sep 6, 2024

Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal

The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...

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Grand Seiko Sep 1, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More!

On episode 88 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss takes you through several new and wild releases. Geneva Watch Days kicked off last week and with it, many cool things were announced. But that’s not all, as there were some surprise announcements too. There was a lot to cover from Armin Strom to Grand Seiko to Tudor. Check it out below. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 88 – An Unbelievable Collab, Pumpkin Spice Dials, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

Marathon Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Marathon Jul 10, 2024

Marathon Watches Guide

Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...

21 Movie Watches Spotted on the Big Screen, from 1961 to Now Teddy Baldassarre
May 13, 2024

21 Movie Watches Spotted on the Big Screen, from 1961 to Now

Spotting watches in the movies, on the wrists of our favorite actors and often playing key roles in the film’s storyline, has long been a favorite pastime of cinephiles and watch enthusiasts, and identifying these movie watches, often all the way down to each model’s individual reference number, has become an online cottage industry. This compilation in no way purports to be the most comprehensive list of every movie watch ever, but it does spotlight some of the most noteworthy watches worn on the silver screen over the past sixty-plus years. Without further ado, let’s grab our popcorn and dive into the list, in more or less chronological order from the 1960s to today.  And for those of you who want even more about movies and watches, make sure to check out our original feature length masterclass Watches of Cinema here. Hosted by watch and movie obsessive (not to mention our VP of Content here at Teddy) Danny Milton, this 10-part video walks through the history of watches in movies decade by decade. So, grab some popcorn and get comfortable because this is gonna be fun. Blue Hawaii (1961) - Hamilton Ventura American watchmaker Hamilton introduced the first electronic watch, the Ventura, to great fanfare in 1957, and the watch would go on to even greater fame when it was worn by Elvis Presley - at the time, arguably the biggest star in the world - in the 1961 film, Blue Hawaii. The watch, which is believed to be Presley’s own rather than a prop (see above), ...

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Mar 20, 2024

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s

The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Richard Mille Sep 30, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition

Unveiled during the Monaco Grand Prix this year, Rebellion launched two limited edition RE-Volt pieces in partnership with the Alfa Romeo F1 team, and we’ve be able to go hands on with the Valtteri Bottas model! What We Love The layered coloured carbon caseSkeletonised dialThe actual pieces of the F1 car in the watch! What We Don’t Lack of water resistanceVelcro strap not as premium or comfortableMinimal power reserve Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 As a fan of F1, it’s not everyday you get to go hands on and review a watch that the drivers wear. Let’s face it, many of the F1 teams have some very high end timing partners, like Richard Mille with Ferrari and Maclaren, whilst others like TAG Heuer and IWC are more mass luxury, some of the pieces the drivers sport are not, like the Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lewis Hamilton has been seen with this year! So when Hardy Brothers, who are the official retailer for Rebellion in Australia, called and said they’ve one of the limited edition Valtteri Bottas C43 RE-Volt pieces available, let’s just say I was keen to get it on my wrist! The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition to 50 Pieces Initial Thoughts Seeing this piece in person, you can’t help get some very strong Richard Mille and Hublot vibes from it. Partly due to the case designed in the Tonneau shape that is now synonymous with RM, and perhaps elements of the design an...

Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Jul 5, 2023

Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour

To most people an entry-level watch would be something like a Casio, Seiko, or maybe a Hamilton if you want to go Swiss. However, Louis Vuitton have made a significant declaration that they’re not interested in catering to ‘most people’. Although the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has included some true technical marvels, the air of … ContinuedThe post Jean Arnault tells the story of the new Louis Vuitton Tambour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe but I have Mar 24, 2023

Hands-On with the Circula ProTrail “Old Radium” Limited Edition

Field watches work particularly well as a blank slate. They are rigorously simple by design, a watch made for pure function and to simply get out of the way of your day to day life. An easily legible dial and a compact case are the only true prerequisites. From there, watch brands have a ton of latitude in how they create a field watch that feels unique to them and will please their customers. There are literally hundreds of traditional field watches to choose from, made by just about every brand you can think of, from Hamilton to Patek Philippe, but I have a soft spot for the oddball interpretations that provide a twist on the norm. The Circula ProTrail isn’t exactly avant-garde or anything, but it’s just a few degrees away from “the standard,” giving it a unique contemporary sensibility among a sea (or a field?) of similar watches that tend to cling to the past.  Circula is a German brand with roots dating back to the 1950s, but was effectively relaunched in 2018 by the founder’s grandson, Cornelius Huber. What started with a series of simple German made quartz watches has become a varied collection of precision machined sports watches (for the most part), often in vibrant colors. They put a focus on manufacturing, which is evident in the ProTrail I sampled, and can be easily seen in other watches in their catalog. They’re one of the few brands, for instance, to offer a dive watch in a true super-compressor case.  I had the opportunity to sample the ProTrai...

eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators Worn & Wound
Longines Here’s Mar 23, 2023

eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...

VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGH289 Feb 18, 2023

VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out

After the last edition of our Versus column between Seiko and Hamilton, Japan and Switzerland are battling each other once more. The rules state that these two watches must both be vying for the same customers, and it’s my job to determine where they match up, where they differ and which is the better option. … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Revives Feb 28, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Revives the Retro-Digital Casquette of 1976

Very much a genre that took off in the 1970s, the digital-display quartz watch was invented by American watch company Hamilton in 1970 – and positioned as a high-end watch at the time – and over the following decades various watchmakers from Europe and Asia have presented their own takes on the digital watch, though it is the latter that has come to dominate the market. One of the more memorable was the Girard-Perregaux ref. 9931 “Casquette” of 1976 that was especially sci-fi with its aerodynamic design. But after a brief production run it vanished from the brand’s catalogue until a surprising comeback last year with a unique, modernised version made for charity auction Only Watch 2021. And now Girard-Perregaux (GP) has finally taken the covers off the Casquette 2.0, which replicates the style of the original but with updated tech and materials, namely a ceramic and titanium case along with a new movement. Initial thoughts The Casquette 2.0 is a remake done well. It retains the appealing design of the vintage original, which was a good looking but dinky watch, and instead channels resources to improving the construction and functions. The new scratch-resistant ceramic case and bracelet demonstrates GP’s effort in a thoughtfully improved remake, especially since similarly priced watches tend to rely on black-coated steel. At the same time, the watch has improved in its function. It gains a chronograph and a second time zone, both of which are rudimentary but n...

It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer vs IWC Sep 14, 2021

It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault?

EDITOR’S NOTE: Title contenders Lewis Hamilton and Max Verstappen crashed out of the Italian Grand Prix at Monza at the weekend after a terrifying collision. Did the seven-time World Champ fail to give way? Or was Hamilton the victim of Verstappen’s reckless desire to win at all costs? Time+Time’s two resident F1 nuts, Fergus Nash … ContinuedThe post It was TAG Heuer vs IWC in the Italian Grand Prix crash – but was either driver really at fault? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Mar 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition

It doesn’t feel like that long ago since Lewis Hamilton became the most decorated F1 driver of all time, winning his seventh world championship in November after a COVID-disrupted but nevertheless enjoyable 2020 season. Now, with less than a month until the 2021 calendar kicks off in Bahrain, there is no shortage of things to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars SJX Watches
TAG Heuer was appointed Jun 4, 2020

In-Depth: Konstantin Chaykin and Telling the Time on Mars

When Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin announced the Mars Conqueror last year, it was not the first Martian-time wristwatch, but it was by far the most advanced and comprehensive watch to indicate Martian time – and even the Martian calendar. TAG Heuer was appointed the official timekeeper for China’s Mars exploration mission in 2016, with its chief executive Jean-Claude Biver declaring that exploring the Red Planet is “the next giant leap for humanity”. With its launch planned for July 2020, the Chinese journey to Mars is just one of several missions to the planet – Russian space agency Roscosmos and NASA are working on similar projects. Despite the steady progress in reaching Mars, no big watch brand has debuted a watch that tells Martian time. Konstantin Chaykin’s experimental Mars Conqueror of 2019 But such watches have been built, as a matter of necessity for the scientists involved in past Mars missions. NASA’s Mars Exploration Rover (MER) of 2004, for instance, commissioned several watchmakers to construct simple but effective Martian-time watches. Since the Martian day, known as a sol, is 24 hours, 39 minutes and 35 seconds, the solution was to slow a conventional watch to match Martian time. Steve Maddox of North Little Rock converted a second world war, military-issue Hamilton 4992B pocket watch for MER team member Jeff Moersch, reducing its frequency from the standard 18,000 beats per hour (bph) to about 17,525 bph. And Los Ang...