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Eric Giroud

Architect-trained Geneva designer behind MB&F\'s entire HM and LM series, plus Bovet, Manufacture Royale, Greubel Forsey commissions.

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MB&F HM12 The Guardian: The Robot Watch That Actually Transforms

MB&F's twelfth Horological Machine is a flying-tourbillon wristwatch that docks inside a 15 kg, nearly 400 mm tall transforming robot companion, and only 36 will ever exist

F.P. Journe Remembers a Friend with Élégante Gino’s Dream SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Remembers Apr 8, 2024

F.P. Journe Remembers a Friend with Élégante Gino’s Dream

A longtime friend of François-Paul Journe, Gino Cukrowicz (1959-2021) was also one of the watchmaker’s earliest supporters, having been a shareholder in the company since almost the beginning. To remember his departed friend, Mr Journe created the Élégante Gino’s Dream, a “rainbow” version of his clever quartz sports watch. A reference to Cukrowicz’s colourful personality, Gino’s Dream is the larger, 48 mm Élégante model with a bezel set with 52 baguette-cut synthetic gemstones of glass-ceramic. Apart from commemorating Cukrowicz, Gino’s Dream also serves as the 10th anniversary special edition of the Élégante. François-Paul Journe and Gino Cukrowicz in 2003 at the opening of the brand’s Tokyo boutique Initial thoughts A personality with a capital “P”, Cukrowicz was almost inseparable from Mr Journe. The rainbow Élégante is a perfect tribute that captures the man. Beyond the personal significance of the watch, Gino’s Dream is also a perfect addition to the line. Both fun and interesting without being too expensive – availability is another matter – Gino’s Dream continues with the colourful, casual, and affordable focus of the Élégante collection. Rainbow memories Gino’s Dream is a variant of the Élégante with 52 baguette-cut rainbow stones on the bezel. Instead of natural gemstones, the stones are glass-ceramic, a clear, polycrystalline material that can be used to simulate natural gemstones. As a result, Gino’s Dream is more a...

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise Fratello
Apr 7, 2024

Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise

It may seem like an odd question, and knowing Elshan Tang’s brand progression personally, I will not be asking it, but you might. If you’re used to his tough budget-priced divers, this new Spearfish is a leap in price and style. Is the open-worked Swiss taste worth it? I love seeing small brands climb the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Zelos Spearfish Dual Time - A Complex Titanium Surprise to read the full article.

Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches? Fratello
Apr 4, 2024

Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches?

Ambrose Bierce published Fantastic Fables back in 1899. It is a bundle of short fairy tales, most of which are absurd and feature an ironic plot twist. This unique combination reminds me of our behavior as watch lovers. Just as Bierce wrote about a woman who shot her man dead to prevent him from leaving […] Visit Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches? to read the full article.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack SJX Watches
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Apr 2, 2024

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers SJX Watches
Rolex watches often Apr 2, 2024

Bamford Drops B80 Collaboration with Ace Jewelers

London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko comes Apr 1, 2024

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around

I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites.  The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...

The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades Quill & Pad
Casio ns Mar 30, 2024

The Unintentional Watch Collector: An Unplanned Watch Collection Spanning Eight Decades

Colin Alexander Smith never set out to collect watches; in fact, he suspects that deep down he aspires to being a one-watch guy. He has only bought himself a new watch on two occasions in his life. Nevertheless, through a combination of new and used purchases, gifts, hand-me-downs, and inherited pieces, Colin has managed to accumulate a selection of watches that rather neatly spans eight consecutive decades of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Find out what is behind each of these watches remaining in Colin's collection right here.

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph Fratello
Mar 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph

In racing, the combination of orange with black or blue is famous. While it is not unique to the racing world, many people immediately associate the two. Sure, we have seen many more colors in the past, but to me, orange and blue ooze racing class. The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph celebrates its racing style […] Visit Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph to read the full article.

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Mar 20, 2024

Breaking News: Michael Schumacher’s AP Royal Oak, F.P. Journe Vagabondage at Christie’s

The spring sale season that kicks off in Geneva come mid May will no doubt include many top lots across the three major auction houses, but Christie’s will claim two of the most compelling watches to go on the block: an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and F.P. Journe Vagabondage, both unique pieces made for Michael Schumacher. Gifts from longtime Scuderia Ferrari manager Jean Todt, each watch features a custom dial commemorating Mr Schumacher’s unprecedented streak of Formula 1 world championships, as well as commemorative engraving on the back. The pair come straight from the Schumacher collection, consigned by his family along with a handful of other watches. Mr Schumacher’s watches will be offered at Christie’s Rare Watches auction taking place on May 13, 2024 in Geneva. Initial thoughts I follow F1 casually and I usually don’t like watches with emblems on the dial – the Vagabondage has 11 logos on the hour scale – but these two watches are exceptionally desirable in my eyes, particularly the Vagabondage, which is incredible for its rarity and provenance. The watches capture Mr Schumacher’s remarkable racing career – his seven world championships tie him with Lewis Hamilton as the all-time record holders – evoking the glamour and prestige of Formula 1 but also the longstanding association between watchmakers and auto racing that arguably started with sports chronographs like the Daytona and Carrera in the 1960s. At the same time, the watches il...

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Mar 19, 2024

Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir Reteam for a New Addition to the Masterpiece Collection

Swiss brand Maurice Lacroix, in collaboration with Label Noir, unveils the latest iteration of its Masterpiece Skeleton, the Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir. While many in the industry may be getting collab fatigue, it’s hard to deny that this new release isn’t the perfect example of a partnership done right: each party leaning on the other’s strength to make something truly impressive.   Building upon the success of their previous collaboration on the AIKON model in 2020, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir join forces again to recreate the magic that was this original release. The Masterpiece Skeleton Label Noir pushes the boundaries of design even further for Maurice Lacroix, showcasing that a well-crafted timepiece can, at times, venture outside the box to make something that expands the brand’s identity in new ways. With the Masterpiece Skeleton, Maurice Lacroix pays homage to skeleton watches while embracing modern technology. In particular, the Masterpiece Skeleton uses both CNC and CAD technology to bring a level of minute detail to their eye-catching design. In doing so, Maurice Lacroix’s artisans have produced a product in which every detail of the movement is both precise and reliable, while still maintaining its captivating filigreed appearance.   The mechanical movement of the Masterpiece Skeleton is the Manufacture ML134 caliber, adorned with Grand Colimaçon, sand-blasted finishing and bridges with polished edges. As with all Maurice Lacroix watches, ...

Photo Report: Traveling Through Zürich and Schaffhausen with IWC Worn & Wound
IWC Just Mar 18, 2024

Photo Report: Traveling Through Zürich and Schaffhausen with IWC

Just a few weeks ago I was graciously invited to fly to Switzerland to get a first glimpse of some of the new novelties this year from IWC. Now obviously I can’t speak to what I saw until the embargo lifts during Watches & Wonders, but the fun didn’t stop there. We had several exciting excursions while we were in both Zürich and Schaffhausen, and of course I had my camera with me to capture some snaps along the way. I felt like these images shouldn’t just live on my iPhone just for me, and maybe there might be someone out there who is interested in visiting either city and this might help push them to buy those plane tickets and get on over there! The Limmat River running through the Old Town Zürich Now some might think that the first stop on a press trip by a major luxury watch brand would be to see watches but you would be wrong. IWC knew how to kick off this tour just right by taking us straight to a chocolate factory. And not just any chocolate factory, but the home of Lindt Chocolate! Home to Switzerland’s largest chocolate museum, it was truly remarkable and I had a blast learning how this chocolate that I love so much is made. If you ever find yourself in Zürich this is a must stop. And yes, you get to try as much chocolate as you’d like! A fountain of chocolate Beautiful architecture inside A closer look at the chocolate fountain! Easter ready Minimalist design throughout the building Candy for all! Welcoming staff throughout With bellies full of choco...

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2024

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar

I have a complicated relationship with Day displays. So often, they’re crammed onto the dial, take up too much space, they don’t add much to the functionality of a watch - I frequently don’t know the date, I very rarely don’t know what day of the week it is - and throw everything out of balance. My… distaste for day-of-the-week displays (and frankly the complication as a whole) is why I prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date and have never kept an SKX for longer than a few months. Still, every so often, some brand comes along and does something so clever I can’t ignore it. Here, with the new Fire Exit Watch from William Wood Watches, we find clever in full supply. Those familiar with William Wood Watches will know that the brand draws heavy inspiration from the history (and materials) of firefighting, and the brand supports a number of firefighting charities. While most William Wood Watches draw their firefighting inspiration from firefighters and their equipment, the Fire Exit Watch draws from an oft-overlooked piece of fire safety gear, the emergency exit sign. Specifically, the Fire Exit Watch is based on the globally ubiquitous ISO standard (yes, they standardize more than dive watches!) green “Fire Exit Man” signs. Those of us who spend most of our time in the United States may be shocked to discover that, as with the metric system, most of the rest of the world has gotten on board with a single style of exit sign. With the Fire Exit Watch, William W...

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch Fratello
Mar 13, 2024

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch

Besides my passions for music and watches, I also greatly love architecture. It takes a unique talent and ability to create buildings that seem like they have an actual soul. But what if you combine architecture and watch design? Does that work? The answer came in the spring of last year. The Lebond Siza explored […] Visit Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Big Reveal from Rivian, Voyager 1 Goes Dark, and a Dune Primer Worn & Wound
Mar 9, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Big Reveal from Rivian, Voyager 1 Goes Dark, and a Dune Primer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Voyager 1 May Have Gone Dark  The “pale blue dot” image The New York Times reports this week that Voyager 1, the first spacecraft to leave our solar system and venture into interstellar space, may have gone dark. It had a good run: Voyager 1 was launched 46 years ago, and captured scientifically important images of Jupiter and Saturn, and famously turned its camera back home to snap the famous “pale blue dot” image of earth. As Voyager 1 left the gravitational pull of the sun, it continued to send data back to NASA, but that stopped sometime in November of last year, and it seems increasingly likely that the probe is simply adrift in space, capping decades of important research. The sheer distance Voyager 1 has traveled (and will continue to travel, whether it’s transmitting data or not) is simply mind blowing, and the longevity of the mission leaves an emotional void among those who care about this kind of research just as much as a scientific one.  A Highly Anticipated New Lens from Sony According to a recent post on sonyalpharumors.com, a new first of its kind lens will s...

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling Teddy Baldassarre
Louis Erard Mar 7, 2024

Louis Erard Watches: How the Regulator King Became an Indie Darling

Louis Erard is one of those Swiss watch brands that may have registered on your radar only recently - earning both enthusiast buzz and critical acclaim in the past few years thanks to its very high-profile partnerships with indie watchmakers whose own timepieces might otherwise be unattainable. How did Louis Erard, which actually traces its origins all the way back to the Great Depression, manage to finally find its niche in the 21st Century? Family Foundations Born in 1893 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a historical hub of Swiss watchmaking, Louis Erard discovered his horological vocation early. In the early 1900s, he began plying his trade as a watchmaker for several of the town’s workshops, and in 1929 founded a watchmaking school where he served as instructor. At the same time, Erard started a watchmaking business with a partner named André Perret, originally as an “assembler” of complete timepieces for third parties using parts supplied by independent artisans. By 1931, the partnership was dissolved and Erard became a producer of watches under his own eponymous brand name. The company grew in the following decades, with Erard’s two sons, René and Jean-Louis, joining in 1945. Among the company’s milestones during this early period was helping to develop the now-legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. In 1956, Louis Erard, which still used third-party movements in its own watches, advanced to the next stage of horological prestige, starting production of it...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 in Pink Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 in Pink Gold

To mark the collection’s fifth anniversary, Audemars Piguet (AP) has launched seven new variants of the Code 11.59 in pink gold that are available in both 41 mm and 38 mm cases, with the 41 mm option being available with or without a chronograph. While none of the individual elements are novel (the new models are a melange of successful elements from recent launches) the new 38 mm model in navy blue – specifically the same hue as the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST – is one of the most appealing variants of the Code 11.59 to-date. Initial thoughts Though often considered a gateway to the brand’s most sought-after models like the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 has quietly evolved into a full-fledged collection that now includes everything from simple time-only pieces to the grandest of grand complications.  The new references reflect the updated Code 11.59 aesthetic introduced last year in stainless steel, which comprised an updated hand set and stamped guilloché dials in crowd-pleasing colours like navy blue and dark green. It is in this respect that the 38 mm model with navy blue dial that stands out. While not the first 38 mm Code 11.59, it is the first in a mainstream colourway. Combined with the more wearable size, this new variant adds significant appeal to the overall collection. The pricing of the new Code 11.59 depends on the size and the complication: the 38 mm models are priced at CHF27,500, while the 41 mm is available for extra CHF1,000 and the chronogr...

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials

Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again) SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)

To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas.  However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Feb 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

Breguet recently unveiled the latest generation of its minute repeater wristwatch, which embodies minimalist classicism. The Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes has a fired enamel dial in glossy black with just two pomme hands and Breguet-style numerals in silver-powder print – and a case that is a surprisingly large 42 mm. Inside is the cal. 567.2, a variant of the calibre that has equipped Breguet repeating wristwatches since the 1990s. But while today’s cal. 567.2 still has the familiar layout of a traditional striking movement, it incorporates a series of upgrades that give the 7637 particularly impressive acoustic qualities. Initial thoughts The 7637 in its latest guise is a beautiful, elegant watch in the traditional Breguet style. Traditionalists might say the black enamel dial is too stark, but the look is still quintessential Breguet in my eyes. Moreover, this is the best iteration of the model to date. Compared to the earlier open-dial model, the new ref. 7637 is restrained and refined in the manner expected of Breguet. The latest 7637 with an enamel dial (left), and its predecessor that featured an open dial revealing engine-turned movement plates Even though the 7637 is descended from prior generations of Breguet repeating wristwatches – the movement originates in the 1990s – it sounds substantially better. The volume, clarity, and tonality of its chimes are leagues ahead of its predecessors. This results from upgrades to both the movement as well as ca...

The Grand Seiko Media Experience: An Enthusiast’s Observations (with Photos!) Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Media Experience Feb 22, 2024

The Grand Seiko Media Experience: An Enthusiast’s Observations (with Photos!)

The Grand Seiko Media Experience is a whirlwind tour of several Grand Seiko/Seiko facilities across Japan. It’s designed to immerse journalists with a precursory knowledge of the brand in its culture, capabilities, processes, and goods while also giving a flavor of Japan itself. As one of four media invited to go last fall from the US and UK, I was delighted by the opportunity, but my goals were different, I believe, than those of my fellow attendees. You see, I am what you might call a Grand Seiko nerd. I have reviewed several of their watches (such as the Snowflake and White Birch), served on a panel of their GS9 event, espoused my affection for the brand in a video with fellow Worn & Wound colleagues, and, perhaps most importantly, owned several of their timepieces (and still do). My goal during this trip was less to learn about the brand, though any information I could gleam would be valued, rather to further my appreciation for their craft and better understand the people who put my (and your) watches together. The newest Grand Seiko boutique in Ginza, located on Namiki Street Now, I could take you through each stop we made, every meeting we had, and each lecture or interview from an esteemed member of the Grand Seiko and Seiko ranks (including Mr. Hattori) we took, but I feel that article has been written. Instead, I want to tell you about how it affected me from the perspective of the Grand Seiko enthusiast I claim to be. And there will be lots of photos to show t...

Introducing – The New Classic-Looking Vulcain Grand Prix Collection Monochrome
Vulcain Grand Prix Collection Drawing Feb 16, 2024

Introducing – The New Classic-Looking Vulcain Grand Prix Collection

Drawing on its historical references, Vulcain has been building a strategy to resurrect its emblematic past collections. The newly added series is inspired by the elegant Vulcain Grand Prix watch from the 1960s. The original timepiece was introduced to commemorate the prestigious award bestowed upon the brand at the Barcelona International Exposition from May 29th, […]

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36 SJX Watches
Breitling Collaborates Feb 16, 2024

Breitling Collaborates with Victoria Beckham on the Compact Chronomat 36

Breitling has just launched the Chronomat 36 Victoria Beckham, a limited-edition variant of its 36 mm sports watch that was conceived together with footballer David Beckham’s wife. The Victoria Beckham edition is essentially the standard model with new dials that feature the “VB” logo as the second hand counterweight, and also engraved on the case back and clasp. Notably, the model range includes a (very) pricey yellow gold model, a first for the current Chronomat. Initial Thoughts Breitling relaunched the Chronomat with the retro Rouleaux bracelet, giving it something of an integrated bracelet design. Though the fad for such sports has faded, but the Chronomat remains an attractive option among its competitors, particularly the chronograph version with the in-house B01 movement. The Victoria Beckham edition doesn’t change much of the standard model, other than dial colours and the use of yellow gold. Rather than a watch catered to enthusiasts, it is clearly is more of an effort to enlarge Breitling’s audience, which is clearly mostly male and oriented towards larger watches. This new launch instead tries to target fashion-forward women and Victoria Beckham fans. That said, it does look quite stunning in yellow gold, especially with the peppermint dial. Granted, all iterations would look better without the Victoria Beckham logo, which are fortunately subtle for the most part, but the emblems are a necessary evil in a collaboration. The steels versions start at US...

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! Worn & Wound
Formex x Worn & Wound Feb 14, 2024

Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap!

On Wednesday, February 7th, the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer was launched into this world. A trio of watches inspired by sci-fi films, they combined sector dials with unique colors and Formex’ exceptional 39mm Essence case. Click here to find out more about that launch. To celebrate this wondrous occasion, we had a meetup at the Worn & Wound offices. Readers, Formex fans, and enthusiasts of all kinds showed up to check out the new watches in person, have some drinks, dine on some charcuterie, share some laughs, and have a great time. Over the last few months, we’ve had a handful of excellent meetups, such as last December in Austin with Carryology and just a few weeks ago in LA with the Collective. If you want to make sure to hear about our upcoming events, be sure to sign up for the Worn & Wound + Slack community, as well as our email list. We hope to see you soon! Oh, and be sure to check out the Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer at the Windup Watch Shop! Images from this post: The post Formex x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Launch Meetup: the Recap! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Ambition, Success, and the Watches of The Iron Claw Worn & Wound
Rolex makes Feb 7, 2024

Ambition, Success, and the Watches of The Iron Claw

Climb up to the top rope with me for a few minutes, and let’s look upon the roles we play within the watch enthusiast community: are we a face or a heel (or likely somewhere in between)? The Iron Claw, my personal favorite film of 2023, forces this type of introspection onto its viewers. The audience is dealt heaps of toxic masculinity and likely some generational trauma, dumped from Fritz Von Erich (Holt McCallany) onto his sons Kevin (Zac Efron), Kerry (Jeremy Allen White), David (Harris Dickinson), and Mike (Stanley Simons). Much of this hinges on Fritz’s perceived failures and an idea he states early on in the film, “If I want to be a star, I need to act like a star […] The only way to beat IT is to be the toughest, the strongest, the most successful. The absolute best.” In more ways than one, we all wrestle with being our best selves and wanting to be perceived as something we aren’t.  The theme of becoming and appearing as if you’re the best plays a role, at times, in the watch world. And, wouldn’t you know it, Rolex makes an appearance on the wrists of at least three characters to subliminally drive this theme home. In the film Rolexes are worn by Fritz Von Erich, his son Kevin Von Erich, and Ric Flair (Aaron Dean Eisenberg).  Holt McCallany as Fritz Von Erich In the opening scene of the film, when Fritz is speaking with his wife, Dottie (Maura Tierney), about what it means to be and appear as a star, he is trying to defend the decision to lease a ...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V in Carbon Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Feb 7, 2024

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V in Carbon Composite

A lightweight version of Urwerk’s most affordable model, the UR-100V “Lightspeed” retains the signature wandering hours time and carbon composite case of the earlier “C52” model. The Lightspeed, however, gains a facelift with a display that tracks the speed of light from the Sun traveling through the solar system. Initial thoughts  At first glance, the Lightspeed may appear similar to the standard UR-100V. Yet, closer scrutiny reveals distinct features, most notably a display indicating the time it takes for light to travel to each of the planets in our solar system. Furthermore, the black carbon case easily complements the aesthetic of the watch. Attention to detail was paid to the light speed display, which also incorporates a new, streamlined cover for the central carousel. And of course the calculations required for the display were clearly substantial. That being said, the display might not be for everyone, as all of the text crowds the dial. A more streamlined arrangement of the planet names or even symbols might have worked better.  The Lightspeed retails for CHF65,000 with a limited but unrevealed production run. As Urwerk’s entry-level watch, the new UR-100V is a reasonable proposition in terms of independent watchmaking. However, it has competition from Urwerk’s own catalogue, where the titanium “Magic T” with a matching bracelet (albeit with a simpler case construction) costs CHF10,000 less. Tracing the speed of light The new model is named a...

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & BR 03 Cyber Ceramic Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & Feb 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Make no mistake, I’m grateful to be able to write about watches. Doing so opens a lot of doors and brings about some great opportunities. Many fantastic new watches are delivered to my door, and often weeks will pass without needing to pick something to wear from my own watch box. However, there are times when a new watch is in such demand, or produced in such limited numbers, that a loan is not easy to come by. The BR-X5 Green Lum is one such watch. Spending some time with it would mean leaving the warmth and comfort of my own home and venturing up to London’s Bell & Ross boutique. It’s a ‘hardship’ I’m willing to take, and an opportunity I’m still thankful for. So, accompanied by ‘wrist model’ and Bell & Ross fan Jeremy, I trekked up to the Big Smoke to go hands-on with this bright and bold addition to the BR-X5 line, and also had some surprise wrist time with the brand new BR 03 Cyber Ceramic. First up is the Green Lum ($13,300). When the BR-X5 line was launched in late 2022, it represented a serious advancement in the Bell & Ross brand identity. For as long as I can remember, the square watch has been Bell & Ross’s calling card. Think square: think Bell & Ross. The successful BR05 model family saw the brand pushing into the integrated-bracelet sports watch arena, rounding off a few square edges while still maintaining a familiar dial layout. Outside of those product lines Bell & Ross has also regularly added to and updated its ‘Concept’ range, w...

A Monday Morning Eulogy For The Rolex Milgauss Fratello
Rolex Milgauss As we gather Feb 5, 2024

A Monday Morning Eulogy For The Rolex Milgauss

As we gather here on this cold Monday morning in February to celebrate the life of the Rolex Milgauss, let us remember the color, antimagnetic properties, and accuracy it brought into the lives of so many watch fans. May its memory continue to inspire and uplift Rolex in the search for a worthy successor, and […] Visit A Monday Morning Eulogy For The Rolex Milgauss to read the full article.

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial Worn & Wound
Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets Jan 31, 2024

The Bulova Lunar Pilot Gets a New (Actually, 4.5 Billion-Year-Old) Meteorite Dial

Among watch brands, Omega won the race to the moon–it also won the PR war, and now whenever someone uses the term “moon watch,” your mind invariably turns to the Speedmaster. But while the Omega Speedmaster may have been the first watch to the moon, it isn’t the only one. In 1971, Apollo 15 mission commander Dave Scott became the seventh man to walk on the moon, and when he looked at his wrist to check how long he’d been out of the lunar lander, it was a Bulova that gave him the time. Forty-five years later, Bulova released a re-creation of this watch: the Lunar Pilot. Now, they’ve leaned into the space angle even more, with the Lunar Pilot Meteorite, which, as the name suggests, features a dial made of actual space rock. The Lunar Pilot was built to NASA’s specifications and, as such, bears some superficial resemblance to the Speedmaster as a three-register chronograph with a tachymeter. (Coincidentally, the Lunar Pilot Meteorite was also released shortly after the latest Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster from Omega, which features a dial made to look like the lunar surface.) But a more rounded and slightly larger case–43.5 mm versus the 42 mm of the Speedmaster–with slim, rectangular pushers that span from the crown to almost the lugs gives the Lunar Pilot a unique silhouette. The meteorite model features a dial crafted from a 4.5-billion-year-old meteorite that Bulova promises gives each of the 5,000 limited edition watches a unique crystalline pattern...