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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.
A Guide to Hand-Finished, Métiers d’Art Dials Worn & Wound
Dec 12, 2025

A Guide to Hand-Finished, Métiers d’Art Dials

At Worn & Wound, we admire watches for their functionality and ability to withstand whatever life throws at them. But we also celebrate the practice of beauty! As such, handcrafted dials, or Métiers d’Art dials, are often considered the pinnacle of human craftsmanship in the field of watchmaking. Independent French watch brand AWAKE has made this its calling card by embracing a bold and contemporary take on exceptional craftsmanship. By reimagining traditional techniques, AWAKE brings out their essence in the service of creativity. Each piece in its Handmade collections features a unique dial that celebrates the passage of time and the beauty of things made to last, inviting you into the world of workshops, traditions, and time-honored craft that keep cultural heritage alive. Presented by Worn & Wound and AWAKE, this guide takes you on a journey to discover some of the most impressive craft techniques used in watchmaking today by sharing a few exceptional examples of each. So sit back, grab a loupe, and enjoy. Sơn Mài The use of lacquer in Asia stretches back thousands of years to ancient China and Japan, but Vietnam also developed its own unique branch of the art called sơn mài. Initially used as a protective material for everyday items like furniture, religious artifacts, and even architecture, it gradually transitioned from a primarily functional practice to an artistic one. During the Lý and Trần Dynasties, between the 11th and 14th centuries, the use of sơn...

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Hands-On With The Second-Generation Oris ProPilot Date Fratello
Oris ProPilot Date Oris introduced Dec 12, 2025

Hands-On With The Second-Generation Oris ProPilot Date

Oris introduced an update to the ProPilot Date last month. I wrote the introduction article based on the press materials, and now I am back, having had hands-on experience with the new models. So, the big question of the day is: does the refresh make the ProPilot better? Let’s get into it! We’ll cover everything […] Visit Hands-On With The Second-Generation Oris ProPilot Date to read the full article.

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Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

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Rolex Kermit Review: The First Green Submariner Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Dec 11, 2025

Rolex Kermit Review: The First Green Submariner

The watch enthusiast community has a way with nicknames, especially when it comes to Rolex. While the Crown has never embraced the proliferation of highly specified pet-names for its most popular models outright, it is a helpful shorthand for quickly differentiating between references. Especially if you, like me, have difficulty pulling reference numbers off the top of your head. We’ve already covered some of the other mean green makes from the Crown in depth, like the Rolex Hulk and the Submariner Starbucks. Today, we’re going to be wading into the weeds of the Submariner, nicknamed after the world’s most famous frog, and getting into the nitty-gritty of how it came to be, and how to differentiate it from other similar-hued Rolex watches.  [toc-section heading="Context and History"]  Image: Bonhams While the history of Rolex’s most iconic can be traced back to the early 1950s, the story of the “Submariner” Kermit is a much more contemporary one. If you’re in the mood for a more in-depth historical lesson, I will refer you now to our complete guide to the Submariner here. This leg of our journey starts in 2003, a major anniversary year for the Rolex Sub. As watchmakers are wont to do, the Crown decided to celebrate the 50th birthday of the Submariner with a special anniversary edition. In a playful move that polarized the purist collectors, Rolex debuted the Submariner reference 16610LV, which was differentiated most obviously by its bright green bezel. Th...

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First Look – Time+Tide x Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Moon Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Dec 11, 2025

First Look – Time+Tide x Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Moon

frederiqueconstant.timeandtidewatches.comFounded in 1988, Frederique Constant has gone from strength to strength with its policy of high-quality watches at affordable prices. Far from an empty catchphrase, the brand’s “accessible luxury” slogan materialised with the release of a perpetual calendar, followed by a tourbillon and a QP in steel, all with unbelievably restrained price tags. In 2020, […]

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Atelier Wen Review: Artisanal Chinese Watchmaking Teddy Baldassarre
Atelier Wen Dec 11, 2025

Atelier Wen Review: Artisanal Chinese Watchmaking

Within the burgeoning small independent watch brand scene we find creative inspiration that takes many forms. Oftentimes, this is focused on a specific moment in time or place in history. With Atelier Wen, a young Hong Kong based manufacture, that inspiration is the celebration of culture and craftsmanship of a nation. The name is a combination of the French word for workshop, and the Chinese word for culture, and serves as a fitting description of not only the brand’s founders, but also the driving force behind their creative vision. Since their founding in 2018, Atelier Wen has become a showcase of Chinese culture and craftsmanship within a world of high-end horology generally dominated by European centric attitudes.  [toc-section heading="Some Brand History"] Atelier Wen was founded by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, two Frenchmen with a shared passion for, and deep connection to Chinese culture and watchmaking. Through their time living and working in China (Robin an advisor and expert in the China Horologe Association; Wilfried a graduate of Peking University and Tsinghua University), the pair developed a deep reverence for the watchmaking scene as represented through the community of collectors and watchmakers. Upon their return to Europe, the two quickly found that their experiences did not align with the general perceptions found in the west. Together, the founders sought to take advantage of the opportunity to put a spotlight on the true nature of Chinese...

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First Look – Czapek Releases the Quai des Bergues “Sursum Corda” as the Final Anniversary Collection Monochrome
Czapek Releases Dec 11, 2025

First Look – Czapek Releases the Quai des Bergues “Sursum Corda” as the Final Anniversary Collection

Celebrating the 180th anniversary of François Czapek’s Genevan watch enterprise and the 10th anniversary of the rebirth of the brand, Czapek releases the fourth and final chapter in its round of celebratory watches. Following the anniversary Antarctique Tourbillon, the Antarctique Plique-à-Jour and the Time Jumper, the last member of the quartet is the Quai des […]

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Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10 Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 11, 2025

Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10

Albishorn is a brand based on one of the most tantalizing concepts that we’ve come across: vintage watches that never existed. I’ve thought about this conceit quite a bit since the brand was launched a few years ago. In some ways, it’s not so different on the surface from any other “vintage inspired” watch. The vast majority of them, after all, never existed. The Black Bay, for instance, takes inspiration from a great many vintage Tudor and Rolex watches, but it’s not a one to one recreation of anything – it never actually existed. But Albishorn is different. They place their watches in an imagined reality. Each one is its own “sliding doors” moment brought to life in watch form – a thought experiment about how things might be if they had turned out just a little differently.  The Type 10 is pitched as an imaginary ancestry to the Type 20, a very real watch that just about everyone reading this will be at least somewhat familiar with. Imagining a predecessor to the Type 20 also means imagining the infrastructure to create it, the timeline on which it would have been made, and even design details that might have been improved or altered in the later (and real) watch.  Today, Albishorn releases a new variant of the Type 10, which they’re calling the Type 10 Officer. Like previous Type 10s, this is a monopusher chronograph designed in the language of military issued watches. This one has a white dial, which the brand explains makes more sense for an Of...

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Introducing – The New Zeitwinkel 082º x The Limited Edition Monochrome
Armin Strom Vianney Halter Kudoke Garrick Dec 11, 2025

Introducing – The New Zeitwinkel 082º x The Limited Edition

Since 2015, The Limited Edition, a British retailer founded by Pietro Tomajer, has been a champion of independent watchmaking, celebrating individuality, craftsmanship, and creative freedom. In the past, the Limited Edition collaborations included watches made with Armin Strom, Vianney Halter, Kudoke, Garrick, and many other independents. To mark its 10th anniversary, the UK-based retailer has […]

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Konstantin Chaykin’s Venus is Arty and Naughty SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Dec 11, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin’s Venus is Arty and Naughty

Konstantin Chaykin’s signature Wristmon has taken an unexpected twist with the Venus. Inspired by The Birth of Venus, Botticelli’s famous Renaissance painting, the wristwatch is modelled on the goddess Venus emerging from the sea, nude with flowing hair.  Like the Wristmons, Venus tells the time with rotating discs, except the discs no longer represent the eyes. Appropriately, the Venus prototype will be sold in at auction on December 11, with all proceeds going to LILT Milano Monza Brianza, an Italian charity dedicated to preventing breast cancer. Initial thoughts The Wristmon is now a familiar concept, maybe too familiar. Venus is a clever twist on the idea; it’s essentially identical in terms of function, yet entirely different in look and theme. The Venus is also relatively subtle, despite the highly exposed central theme. At the same time, the Venus fits into a historical category of watches. In some ways it’s a variant of the tradition erotic watch, which existed in pocket watches and also modern wristwatches. The case of the Venus is also a bit more graceful than the average Wristmon. It has flowing lines and more importantly, only one crown, instead of the two for most Wristmon models. In short, I like the Venus. It is a smart new direction for the Russian watchmaker’s signature concept. Goddess on the dial Like the Wristmons, Venus indicates the time regulator-style. Hours and minutes are each indicated on rotating discs, while the “face” forms the ...

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Memorable Moments: What Shook The Watch World In 2025? Fratello
Dec 11, 2025

Memorable Moments: What Shook The Watch World In 2025?

What shook up the watch industry in 2025? There are plenty of things, I suppose, but since the watch industry is a multifaceted entity, I think I should elaborate. In terms of innovative watchmaking, 2025 proved to be an interesting year. Many prominent brands released technical innovations that demonstrate how the universe of mechanical timepieces […] Visit Memorable Moments: What Shook The Watch World In 2025? to read the full article.

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Introducing – Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07 Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Dec 11, 2025

Introducing – Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07

With its 5 Sports collection, the brand’s accessible range that comprises almost infinite styles, Seiko isn’t shy of creating bold models and teaming up with unexpected partners. Recently, we’ve seen models inspired by Bruce Lee, Peanuts or Mooneys. There was even a pair of Pepsi-bezel watches made with… Pepsi! Now, the Seiko 5 Sports SKX […]

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Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Dec 11, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07

For its latest 5 Sports collaboration, Seiko teamed up with MGM to celebrate the Pink Panther. It’s a joyful reminder of the prank-loving cartoon character I got to know through the famous series of movies that began in the 1960s with Peter Sellers as Inspector Jacques Clouseau. Six years after the 1963 premiere of The […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07 to read the full article.

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Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike Dec 11, 2025

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...

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Hamilton Gift Guide Four Iconic Dec 10, 2025

The 2025 Hamilton Gift Guide: Four Iconic Watches, One Holiday Pop-Up

If you’re tired of gifting the same old “this-made-me-think-of-you” mug with a quote, Hamilton is once again stepping in to save your season. Our annual Holiday Gift Guide with this classic brand is back and it’s giving a whole lot of enthusiast charm, character, and just the right amount of cinematic sparkle. This year’s lineup celebrates five standout timepieces, each matched to a distinct persona in your family or immediate circle of friends. Think of this as your shortcut to giving a gift that actually feels thoughtfully chosen vs. that last-minute pick up. The post The 2025 Hamilton Gift Guide: Four Iconic Watches, One Holiday Pop-Up appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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What is a Quartz Watch? Everything You Need to Know Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 10, 2025

What is a Quartz Watch? Everything You Need to Know

The advent of the quartz watch was the most disastrous event ever to befall the traditional luxury watch business, an existential threat that nearly toppled the watch industry as we know it. The invention of the quartz watch was among the most significant advances in the history of timekeeping and brought affordable wristwatches to the masses in a way that had never been seen before. These are the two main schools of thoughts on what the quartz watch has meant to the history of watchmaking, and both are essentially correct. As you contemplate whether to purchase a quartz watch, ponder the main differences between quartz and mechanical movements, and try to wrap your head around the various types of timekeeping technologies, let’s explore how quartz watches originated, how they evolved, and what their place is in today’s ever-changing watch world.  [toc-section heading="Quartz Movements Explained"] Unlike a mechanical movement, which stores its energy in a wound mainspring inside a barrel and releases it through a complex series of gears to move the hands, a quartz movement derives its power from a small electrical charge provided by a battery, which then passes through an integrated circuit that applies the charge to a tiny quartz crystal cut into the shape of a tuning fork. Thanks to something known as the reverse-piezoelectric effect, that tiny charge applied to the quartz tuning fork crystal causes it to vibrate at an incredibly high rate that dwarfs the output of ...

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First Look – Lederer Inverto Titanium 39mm, a Superb Inverted Take on the Central Impulse Chronometer Monochrome
Dec 10, 2025

First Look – Lederer Inverto Titanium 39mm, a Superb Inverted Take on the Central Impulse Chronometer

With the Inverto Titanium, independent watchmaking atelier Lederer refines the 2023 Central Impulse Chronometer InVerto, a large 44mm watch in a blackened case, into a compact, titanium-framed display of one of the most sophisticated escapement architectures in modern watchmaking. It’s a culmination of forty years of mechanical experimentation, distilled into 39mm of pure chronometric artistry, […]

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Laco Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with a Tribute to their Past Worn & Wound
Casio n Dec 10, 2025

Laco Celebrates their 100th Anniversary with a Tribute to their Past

As I’m currently in the process of planning a 15-year anniversary, I can tell you one thing, Reader: it’s not easy finding a way to pack so much into only one measly day. I mean, does a single night out sharing a Caesar salad and a couple cocktails convey all the love, memories, and various milestones? Probably not. But it’s the thought that counts, right?  But, then again, maybe I’m just doing it all wrong. Take, for example, the German watchmaker, Laco, who is celebrating a much more impressive anniversary this year: their 100th. Instead of doing a two-for-one special at a chain restaurant (which is always my back-up plan), they released a watch to celebrate the occasion: the Edition 100, which is, in a way, a culmination of an ongoing mission from the brand, which has released five limited-edition releases in the past, each celebrating a key chapter in Laco’s history. For the Edition 100 specifically, the brand used the 1950’s as the springboard for the design, taking inspiration from an archival model. While the cleaner lines, slim bezel, and two-tone colorway might all read as Art Deco-adjacent, Laco’s contemporary design language, such as adjusting proportions for a more modern appearance, has filtered through to make a watch worthy of bridging the gap between the watchmaker’s past and present. The 38mm stainless-steel case is coated in a gold-tone IP, which, in turn, softens the black center of the dial and complements the champagne outer ring simul...

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Introducing – The Tuxedo Dial Returns with the New Serica Ref. 6190 TXD Monochrome
Serica Ref 6190 TXD Since Dec 10, 2025

Introducing – The Tuxedo Dial Returns with the New Serica Ref. 6190 TXD

Since its founding in 2019, Serica has built a loyal following for its elegant take on tool watches. Designed in Paris by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (of Les Rhabilleurs publication), Serica’s creations blend the discipline of military design with what is best described as distinctly French refinement. The brand’s collection comprises the 5303 Diver […]

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Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings SJX Watches
De Bethune s In-House Hairsprings De Dec 10, 2025

Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings

De Bethune plans to bring hairspring production in house, aiming to become one of the very few firms able to process alloy wire into a finished balance hairspring. This requires De Bethune’s new hairspring workshop to master wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly. The rationale? “Externally produced hairsprings meet standards based on averages that do not enable fine adjustment of the dimensions to suit a particular balance wheel or its specific positioning in a calibre,” according to De Bethune. De Bethune’s “flat end curve” mated to a hairspring sourced from a supplier. Initial thoughts As De Bethune explains it, making its own hairsprings will allow the brand to tailor its hairspring to a specific balance or movement. Since its founding in 2002, De Bethune has presented itself as being on the cutting edge of chronometry, debuting a new balance design every year from 2004 to 2010. The brand was also quick to embrace silicon, and even briefly attempted a kilohertz magnetic oscillator system, Résonique. A new year, a new balance. Sometimes two new balances. Given De Bethune’s focus on chronometry, making its own hairsprings seems like a natural next step. However, there is a reason so few brands make their own hairsprings: the process is a difficult and demanding one that benefits greatly from economies of scale. For example, H. Moser & Cie. makes less than 4,000 watches per year, however, its sister company Precision Engineering claims...

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The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Dec 10, 2025

The Urwerk UR-230 Goes Dark

Urwerk’s latest satellite-display creation, the UR-230 Black Star, builds on more than two decades of the brand redefining the wandering hours complication. A concept first teased in the Harry Winston Opus 5 and later perfected in the UR-210, the retrograde-satellite display has become synonymous with Urwerk’s identity, and the Black Star demonstrates how far the idea has come. With a lightweight fibreglass-reinforced ceramic case, the Black Star is a 35-piece limited edition that looks to be the final instalment of the UR-230 series. Initial thoughts Urwerk didn’t invent the wandering hours display, but the brand deserves credit for dragging the complication into modernity in the late 1990s. While the brand has dabbled in watches with conventional hands, it’s still the satellite time display that carries the essence of Urwerk’s DNA. The UR-230 traces its roots back to the 2012 launch of the UR-210, which introduced the retrograde frame that travels with the satellite cube for hours. The concept for a retrograde hand paired with wandering hours dates back even further, to the 2005 launch of the Harry Winston Opus 5, which was also designed by Urwerk. While the concept has subsequently been elaborated with the UR-150 Scorpion, the UR-230 still looks strikingly advanced even after all these years. The latest black-and-yellow livery seems to be the flavour of the day, closely matching the brand’s recent collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. The signature detail of the...

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