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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won Jul 16, 2023

HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal

This year the Bulgari Octo Roma received a long overdue makeover that brings it more in line with its more flashy sibling Finissimo. Not only do the changes add welcome continuity across the collection, but also a little extra elegance to the collection’s more affordable but no less delightful offering. I would hazard a guess … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Why the new Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic won me over with its quiet luxury appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will Jul 16, 2023

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition

The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage Time+Tide
Longines send you over Jul 15, 2023

Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage

Longines’ classic Flagship line gets a handsome new 38.5mm Heritage model in three colourways The new models feature both a moonphase and calendar function on a well-balanced dial The original Flagship made its debut in 1957, and was one of Longines’ first wristwatch collections Longines are one of the oldest watch brands in the world, … ContinuedThe post Longines send you over the moon with their newest Flagship Heritage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Ben Roth Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – Jul 14, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Ben Roth

Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Ben Roth shares a trio of all-time classics that span genres and styles. We love this collection for its authenticity and inspiration, with all three of these watches actually appearing in Ben’s collection.  If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here.  I gave myself an additional challenge when choosing my three watches for $5,000, in that I didn’t want to put anything on the list that I actually own. What I wanted to dig into is exactly what I look for in the watches I wear and what pieces completely reflect what I’m looking for (and stay within the price limit.) What came from this challenge is a sharp and subtle collection that references my favorite books and movies while also being completely functional for everything life can throw at a person. Doxa Sub 300T Caribbean – $1,890 A Doxa Sub 300T was the first watch I thought of for this collection, and I was originally going to pick the black Sharkhunter colorway. The blue Caribbean won out, however, because if I were ever to do the impossible and become a one watch guy a blue dive watch would be my pick. The Caribbean colorway honors that, and if the Sub 300T is good enough for the likes of Dirk Pitt and Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor then it’s certainly good enough for me. It would also be amazing on a nato strap for the summer, and I could see myself wearing...

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko there’s Jul 14, 2023

The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart

Seiko’s Presage lineup falls into an interesting place within the wide world of Seiko. Between Seiko 5 Sports, Prospex, Astron, King Seiko, and the separate Grand Seiko, there’s a lot to take in. The Presage line is meant to highlight Seiko’s watchmaking chops by combining a traditional Japanese sense of aesthetics with traditional techniques. The result is a lineup of watches that are elevated over your standard Seiko offerings with more advanced finishing and dial work, most of which tend to lean a bit dressy. The SPB417 we’re taking a look at today is right at home in the Presage lineup, with some really intriguing dial work, crisp applied indices, and an angular case that shows off a variety of finishing techniques. Let’s take a closer look at this brand-new offering from Seiko and all it has to offer. $ The Seiko SPB417 Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart Case Stainless steel Movement 6R5J Dial Aitetsu blue with asanoha pattern Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 bar Dimensions 40.2 x 47.4mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/Pull Warranty Yes Price $ Case Measuring 40.2mm wide by 47.4mm lug-to-lug, the SPB417 fits firmly in the mid-sized category. I would say that the measurements and case architecture line up, as the watch wears how the dimensions would imply. The watch is part of the “Sharp Edged” series, which debuted back in 2020 and has since grown to include several different models. One of the important fe...

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Citizen s “Unite Jul 14, 2023

Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch

If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. If you’ve ever spent a considerable time around the ocean, there’s a really good chance that you’ve noticed just how much trash lies in the water and on the shore. Even in the most pristine of destinations, a plastic bag or bottle always manages to make its way there. When a watch brand makes an effort to remove plastics from their supply chain, it’s worth taking notice. Inspired by the varying shades of blue and green that make up our oceans and seas, this Promaster Dive watch from Citizen features several recycled materials to make up its stunning dial and bezel. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s “Unite with Blue” Sustainable Dive Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm Jul 14, 2023

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes

The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm shrinks down the crowd-favourite dive watch. Despite its reduced size, it retains all necessary diving specifications. Three models are available in black, blue or grey with a gold PVD case. Given the sheer amount of dive watches which get released every day, it’s pretty common for them to include some … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster Dive 37mm is a no-gimmick joy for smaller tastes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch SJX Watches
Breguet Bestows Jul 14, 2023

Breguet Bestows a Luxe Touch on the Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch

Breguet has unveiled a unique version of its world time wristwatch for Only Watch, the highly anticipated charity auction. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 “Only Watch 2023” is dressed in striking, rich colours that are unusual for Breguet, bringing a new face to the jumping display, dual time sports watch with a dial that’s a twist on the traditional world map motif. The dial features a gilded globe that’s a representation of the lighted areas of the world at night. Initial thoughts Since its debut last year, the Marine Hora Mundi has remained a hidden gem. The watch boasts a clever jumping dual-time complication and it is also a luxury-sports watch, the most popular segment of watchmaking in recent years. While the production version of the Hora Mundi has a dial that feels relatively flat, the Only Watch edition is far more striking. The dial motif is a clever concept that has not been used before in watchmaking, where gilded accents are used to represent the world’s population. Moreover, the dial does away with the latitude and longitude lines found on the original, making the map and guilloche more prominent. Given the aesthetic appeal of this dial design, we hope that a similar design will be introduced for the regular production model following Only Watch. But for now, the charity auction will be the only chance to land this Hora Mundi. It carries an estimate of CHF70,000 to CHF80,000, a modest price estimate. It anticipated that this will be readily exceeded dur...

The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GS9 Club Jul 14, 2023

The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here

Oh the fear of missing out (or FOMO as the kids say) is real. As I scroll through Instagram stalking the GS9 Club events around the world, I can’t help but ask why? Why am I not there sipping on sake, fondling Grand Seiko after Grand Seiko? When is Australia launching our very own GS9 … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko GS9 Club for Australia and New Zealand is finally here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Worn & Wound
Bulova Oceanographer Watch collecting has Jul 13, 2023

Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer

Watch collecting has a few rites of passage: Buying an Invicta on vacation. Eagerly purchasing too many watches and quickly filling a watch box. Experiencing buyer’s remorse and selling those watches to recover funds for future purchases. Seller’s remorse setting in, followed by repurchasing watches. With one exception, the Bulova Oceanographer helped me check all of those boxes. I purchased my first Oceanographer during the buying/selling frenzy many enthusiasts go through. Seeing watches in stores and at meetups is cool, but can’t compete with the experience of ownership. Ownership removes the fear of scratching a watch while learning how it feels in 90% humidity. It allows you to test if a bezel still turns after a day at the beach, and to find those annoying design flaws that only become apparent after a few days on the wrist.  $750 Owner’s Review: Happy Compromises with the Bulova Oceanographer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 821D Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Bracelet/rubber strap Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 44 x 46mm Thickness 15mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $750 For a couple years, I had a watch coming and going every month. It was a constant game of hunting for opportunities, always selling, trading and buying. Sometimes I’d make $50, sometimes I’d lose $50. Sometimes I’d organize a trade on Reddit, and anxiously wait to see if the person on the other end of the deal was scamming me (they never were)...

Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire… Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition Jul 13, 2023

Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire…

If you’re working from home right now and looking out over your barren desk, take a moment to stop and think about what your options are for sprucing the place up. You could put a bunch of flowers on there perhaps, maybe a picture of your family, Or that elephant statue your mother-in-law got you … ContinuedThe post Ulysse Nardin UFO Final Edition: The unidentified floating object of my desire… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona gets Jul 13, 2023

The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz

The rapper 2 Chainz is called “2 Chainz” because of his predilection for wearing, you guessed it, two chains. In other words, the hip-hop artist clearly takes his accessories very seriously. And that passion extends to his wristwear, too. “I like to carry around seven watches, because there’s seven days in a week,” he once … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Daytona gets a skeletonised remix in white ceramic at the hands of 2 Chainz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Gives the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar a “Salmon” Dial

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar seamlessly integrates two of the most intricate complications in watchmaking with symmetry and classic elegance. It has undergone several facelifts since its introduction in 2013, including the champlevé enamel Handwerkskunst of 2017. Now, the brand has introduced the latest incarnation of the model that features a dial in “salmon” – officially known as “pink gold” – while retaining the traditionally constructed calibre in a limited edition of only 100 pieces. Initial thoughts Envisioning further improvements for the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is probably challenging due to its complexity and quality. The Handwerkskunst edition did it with lots of elaborate decoration. Now comes a salmon dial, something a little unexpected, given the lack of colour across the rest of the 1815 family, which sticks fairly rigidly to silvered dials, no matter the case metal. Perhaps the new dial colour is to add a bit more appeal to an otherwise under-appreciated (and slow-selling) complication.  Perhaps the only downside to this release is that it is just a dial change with no substantial changes to note. But the intrinsic quality of the watch itself in terms of finishing, construction, and complexity is already very, very high. So adding a new shade to the otherwise conservative 1815 line up is never a bad thing, especially when done in this limited fashion. New colourway, but the same calibre The dial is ide...

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Jul 13, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits The Seas With New Carrera Skipper Chronograph

These are the kinds of midweek surprises I can get on board with. TAG Heuer has revealed a new Carrera Skipper chronograph in the 39mm chassis we saw (and loved) earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This is a regular production variant of the Carrera that makes excellent use of the sublime Skipper colorway we first saw in the late ‘60s, and most recently in the 2017 limited edition Carrera Skipper for Hodinkee. The color scheme feels right at home in the modern Carrera shoes, with plenty of small details to discover along the way. Best of all, it doesn’t feel like a vintage recreation, it feels purely modern through and through, taking full advantage of the new ‘glassbox’ design of the Carrera.  The latest Carrera sports a range of blue, green, and orange hues in a reflection of the original colorway which made the watch so distinctive. The base dial is a deep blue with contrasting seafoam hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and multicolor minute totalizer at 3 o’clock, which splits the counter into 5 minute segments to more accurately find your position going into the start of a yacht race. The final five minutes, as well as the timing seconds hand, are rendered in orange, denoting their importance to the operation. There is a running seconds hand within a third, almost hidden sub dial appearing at 6 o’clock, which isn’t framed and thus is the same color as the base of the dial. Only the indexes and the hand itself give its position away. The unique new ‘gl...

The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges Jul 12, 2023

The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format

Once enough collectors discover a vintage reference, prices can really drive up as their collectability rises. Due to the age of a watch, and how perspective has shifted on how to appropriately maintain or service a watch, the available number of collector-grade condition watches can be rare. One such coveted, historic, and rare watch is … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carerra Skipper merges the coveted reference with new Glassbox format appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Jul 12, 2023

Frederique Constant Review: Brand History and All the Major Watch Coll

Frederique Constant has been making watches for only 35 years, but the Geneva-based brand’s list of accomplishments, and its impressive and diverse roster of timepieces, might well convince you that it has been at the horology game much longer. In this feature, we trace the history of Frederique Constant, showcase its plentiful milestones over the course of three-plus decades, and introduce you to the standout models in the current Frederique Constant collection. 1988: The Foundations When Dutch entrepreneur Peter Stas and his wife Aletta Stas-Bax set out to establish the Swiss watch manufacturer Frederique Constant in 1988, they were rolling the dice on a business plan that was anything but a sure thing. The Quartz Crisis that had ravaged the traditional Swiss watch industry since the 1970s was still ongoing and the return of the luxury mechanical watch to prominence and collectibility had yet to ramp up in a major way. However, both the timing of the launch and the underserved niche that it targeted - affordable, elegant watches with Swiss mechanical movements for enthusiasts with relatively modest budgets - proved to be wise, as evidenced by the company still going strong in its 35th year, with an impressive string of milestones under its belt, which we’ll touch on below. Frederique Constant is today one of the largest Swiss watchmaking firms; the company doesn't disclose production numbers, but Peter Stas stated in 2019 that the goal was to increase capacity fr...

Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase Worn & Wound
Longines Returns Jul 12, 2023

Longines Returns to the Flagship and Adds a Moonphase

As watch names go, I’ve always thought “Flagship” was a pretty good one. Every brand, I think, strives to have a watch they can comfortably refer to as a flagship model, and Longines, beginning in the late 1950s, went ahead and took a clever shortcut by naming their line of elegant dress watches the Flagship. It makes a lot of sense if you step back and think about it. A brand’s flagship model should be something that defines them – the type of watch that you conjure in your mind’s eye when you think about the brand. Longines of course has a heritage with a ton of variety, making watches in every conceivable genre over the years, but I think it’s fair to say a watch with a certain casual elegance and is really their sweet spot, and the Flagship Heritage models (first introduced in 2017) do a great job of reminding us of what the brand has always excelled at. For their latest release, they’ve returned to the Flagship Heritage concept with three new watches that build on the previous executions, this time with a classic complication included.  The original Flagship Heritage releases of six years ago were lessons in classic understatement – watches that were well considered, beautiful, and completely competent, but not flashy, attention seeking, or attempting to jump on any particular trend. The new Flagship Heritage models are very much made with that same sensibility, but include a moonphase complication, further tying them to watches they’re based on f...

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Jul 12, 2023

Behind-the-Scenes with the Citizen Promaster Tsuno Chrono 50th Anniversary Model

When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leather strap. Take a look at our behind the scenes video below to see how our amazing team put together this big launch. When the Worn & Wound team was asked to create a video production for the new Citizen 50th Anniversary Promaster Tsuno Chrono Racer, we were completely stoked as we were such big fans of the original. Our vision aligned with Citizen on this project making for a solid collaboration for this fun revival. One of our favorite aspects of the shoot was demonstrating the watch on both a male and female wrist. Our female model certainly rocked the Tsuno Chrono with style and grace! If you’re not familiar with the origin, this piece was inspired by the original Citizen Bullhead from 1973, the uncommon chronograph features a 45mm two-tone stainless steel case secured by a sleek brown leath...

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear Time+Tide
Breitling makes Jul 12, 2023

Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear

With all of the streaming platforms at our disposal, there is a fair bit of comfort-food garbage shows for us all to guiltily binge. But, when people ask me what is a good show, a genuinely good show, to watch, FX on Hulu’s The Bear is definitely at the top of the list. For many … ContinuedThe post Breitling makes a wrist-cameo in season 2 of The Bear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.