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Monochrome
Albishorn is a new independent brand born to create “imaginary vintage” – watches that could have existed, capturing the allure of the past while exploring the possibilities of what might have been. Inspired by a “what if” spirit, the brand’s inaugural model seeks to answer the question: “What would a modern regatta chronograph have looked […]
Worn & Wound
Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...
Hodinkee
The trio of relatively young brands plans to collaborate and work outside of traditional watchmaking structures to grow independent brands in new ways.
Hodinkee
Breitling introduces its exclusive Caliber B19 in the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat to celebrate its 140th anniversary.
Worn & Wound
It’s been an undeniably good year for watches over at Oris. Whether your tastes skew toward the Aquis or the Divers Sixty-Five, there have been plenty of wonderful new additions to the Oris catalog in 2024, from the all-new Aquis introduced at Watches and Wonders to the slew of exciting LEs that have punctuated the year. For Geneva Watch Days, Oris is continuing the trend, marking Geneva’s second biggest week in watches with not only a new Divers Sixty-Five LE but a brand new generation of Aquis Chronograph as well. Since its introduction in 2015, the Divers Sixty-Five has been a clear hit for Oris. It’s one of those watches you actually see in the real world, and the versatile model has been the platform for some of the brand’s most popular and sought-after collaborations and limited editions. This summer alone has seen three wildly different interpretations of the Divers Sixty-Five hit the market, each with its own distinct appeal. This latest addition to the lineup sees Oris collaborating with France’s Ligue de Football Professionnel (LFP), along with LFP’s charity partner CNAPE (the National Convention of Child Protection Associations). Inspired by CNAPE’s mission, this 1,000-piece LE is replete with small details highlighting the partnership. Standouts here include the deep blue dial and the distinct font used for all the dial text, which is inspired by a child’s handwriting - a choice augmented by the rainbow of color used to spell out “water resi...
Time+Tide
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling has produced a limited run of three perpetual calendar chronographs in red gold.The post Breitling celebrates its 140th anniversary with a Navitimer, Chronomat, and Premier trio of perpetual calendars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic […]
Fratello
This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
If Armin Strom was initially centred around Mister Armin Strom himself, the brand underwent a significant transformation in 2006 when it was acquired by Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, who aimed to turn Armin Strom into a full-fledged manufacture. The duo presented its first in-house movement in 2009, and today, to celebrate the 15th anniversary […]
Fratello
Making its Geneva Watch Days debut, Norwegian independent brand Micromilspec has announced a new watch. Launched as a civilian model, the Milgraph is a serious military-inspired chronograph that packs a lot of functionality onto the wrist. It provides a column-wheel-operated chronograph movement with a GMT function in a blasted titanium case. At first glance, there’s […] Visit Micromilspec Launches The New Milgraph GMT Chronograph At Geneva Watch Days to read the full article.
Fratello
We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty. Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
While immediately recognizable thanks to its signature Piccadilly case, which is found in its emblematic Openworked and Academic collections, Speake Marin decided in 2022 that it was time to join the all-important sporty-chic category, with its own vision of a watch with an integrated bracelet. This took the shape of an original watch named Ripples, […]
Fratello
In January 2022, Ressence introduced the Type 3 BBB, a “Black, Black, Black” version of its oil-filled mechanical watch. My colleague Dave dubbed it “the brand’s best model yet.” However, Ressence limited the production of the watch to that year only. If you were looking for an all-black Ressence Type 3 after that, you were […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 BB2 In Nearly All-Black Attire to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Following the revival of Daniel Roth with the launch of the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription last year, the brand is now building its catalogue with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, which will be a regular production model. The Tourbillon Rose Gold is a variation of the original with tweaks to the decoration and material, but most significantly, the new tourbillon is fitted with a display back that shows off the DR001 movement. Initial thoughts It was expected that Daniel Roth would follow up with a regular production tourbillon, so the Tourbillon Rose Gold is not surprising. Like the Souscription, it has an obviously high quality of make in construction, finishing, and details. Both the dial and case are 5N rose gold so it is strikingly pink, giving it a stronger presence than the Souscription, which in comparison is low key. It was a shame that the DR001 movement was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription because the calibre is worth admiring. The movement is high quality in both design and finishing, boasting many details that enthusiasts now regard as key elements of haute horlogerie. The quality of finishing is impressive. In fact, the movement decoration is as good as some small-scale independent brands, reflecting the attention to detail that has characterised the resurrected Daniel Roth brand. Admittedly, such fine finishing isn’t as rare as it once was, since it is now sought after by enthusiasts and specialist subcontractors have sprung up to cater to that deman...
SJX Watches
The race towards nothingness in ultra-thin watches has picked up in the last years, with brands like Bulgari and Richard Mille outdoing each other in the thinnest-watch stakes. Now Konstantin Chaykin wins the race with his ThinKing, a prototype that comes in at a staggering 1.65 mm in back-to-back thickness - making it the thinnest mechanical timepiece today. Currently the ThinKing is a concept watch in its second prototype stage, constructed and executed by the Moscow-based independent watchmaker, with three pending patents linked to its development. Initial thoughts While the technical merits are impressive, the watch seems bland on its face, or at least face-on. It appears to be a large, flat piece of steel with a dull finish, sporting twin eye-like registers for the hours and minutes. The ThinKing doesn’t have the visual flair of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari or Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. But it is easily recognisable as a Wristmon, the brand’s signature collection of “rolling eye” watches. Since it is only a prototype and the aesthetics are not yet refined for commercial production, the ThinKing’s appearance can be overlooked. The brand name engraved in an arc resembling a smile The ThinKing is absurdly thin at 1.65 mm. This makes it 0.05 mm thinner than the previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mark II. Although imperceptible to the naked eye, the minute reduction is amazing from a technical point...
Monochrome
As we recently discussed with Patrik Hoffmann, long-established brand Favre-Leuba is making a comeback with ambitious plans. To revive one of the oldest names in the watch industry, Hoffmann aims to position the brand within its historical price segment (between CHF 2,000 and 4,500), offering affordable yet high-value watches with a strong vintage inspiration – […]
SJX Watches
Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...
Monochrome
The grande sonnerie is one of the most intricate mechanisms in watchmaking. Its creation requires the utmost technical expertise as hundreds of components are required to interact simultaneously and strike time indications perfectly. Bulgari has a rich tradition of crafting striking watches, having already produced grande and petite sonnerie watches. This expertise first originated from the […]
Worn & Wound
The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities. The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.” This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop. In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...
SJX Watches
MB&F;’s sculptural clocks made by L’Epee 1839 have ranged from sci-fi spiders to robots. And now the pair have debuted their most elaborate and expensive desk clock to date, the Albatross. Inspired by the airship of the same name in the Jules Verne novel Robur the Conqueror, the steampunk Albatross does more than tell the time. The clock also incorporates an hourstriker as well as a propellor automaton that activates alongside the hourstriker. Initial thoughts The Albatross is more interesting mechanically than MB&F;’s past collaborations with L’Epee, which were mostly about the form of the clock. This, on the other hand, incorporates mechanics into the design with the propeller automaton linked to the hourstriker. Coupled with the chiming and spinning propellors, the sheer size – 60 cm high and some 17 kg – makes the Albatross a truly impressive object. But the Albatross costs about CHF120,000 before taxes, which is a big number even considering its complexity. While the impressive mechanics and careful construction of the clock arguably justify the price, the price tag puts it in competition with a lot of compelling watches, at least for a watch collector. For someone looking for an impressive desktop object or the ultimate in home decor, this has arguably less competition. Jules Verne’s airship Made of steel, brass, and aluminium, the Albatross contains two separate movements. The first is a twin barrel, eight-day movement for the timekeeping and hourstriker...
Worn & Wound
Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...
Monochrome
Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]
Fratello
As the watch world holds its breath ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Tudor has taken the opportunity to debut a new blue colorway for the Black Bay Chrono. This latest iteration also features the fan-favorite five-row bracelet, which only made its way onto the model earlier this year. First introduced in both panda and reverse […] Visit Hot Take: Tudor Introduces A New Blue Colorway For the Black Bay Chrono to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...
Fratello
When you think of Vacheron Constantin, the Fiftysix might not be the first watch you associate with the brand. Models like the 222 and the Overseas will probably come to mind first. However, like those, the Fiftysix is based on one of Vacheron Constantin’s true heritage pieces. Besides, it receives the same attention to detail […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix In A Rose Gold And Black Tuxedo-Like Outfit to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since 2019, Bangalore Watch Company has been expanding its MACH 1 portfolio to honour local aviation like the Indian Air Force MiG 21, Indian Navy Aircraft Carrier INS Vikrant R11 and Indian women in commercial aviation. The latest MACH 1 Avalanche celebrates high-altitude mountain rescue helicopters at the peaks of the Himalayas. The thin air […]
Monochrome
Italians are known for quite a few things, amongst which is their unmistakable sense of style and design. From fashion and shoes to automobiles, kitchen appliances, furniture and art, Italian flair is ever-present. So much so, that specific terms are used to describe people who embrace this flamboyancy and elegance. The term Gagà for instance, […]
Fratello
I had studied it for months. I knew everything there was to know about it. The only issue was that I had never seen one in real life. The only way to get my hands on one was to order it online. So that’s what I did. It took its sweet time since I had […] Visit Gateway Watches: The Watches That Get Us Hooked And Locked In to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A hand-painted CasiOak is not something you see every day, but that's exactly what Fratello and IFL Watches have done with this Moonlander.The post One small step for Fratello, one giant leap for IFL Watches: the Fratello x IFL Watches G-Shock CasiOak Moonlander appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Well, that is what I wrote when I started this story, genuinely believing that I would have a problem choosing. But as many times before, RJ, Mike, and others have finished their Best Watches Under €10K stories and stolen my chosen thunder. The €5K–10K segment is not easy for me as my taste annoyingly tends […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Thor’s Picks From Cartier, Grand Seiko, And Zenith to read the full article.
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