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Hands-On With The Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer Fratello
Apr 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer

Today’s Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer brings heaps of functionality in a classy, relatively affordable package. We’ve covered the brand extensively here on Fratello and have come to enjoy the thoughtful touches and high-value quotient. Yes, today’s piece is a dressier affair, but it’s nicely executed. Brellum continues to roll out the hits with […] Visit Hands-On With The Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Chronometer to read the full article.

First Look – The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options Monochrome
Chopard s co-president unveiled Apr 3, 2024

First Look – The New Ferdinand Berthoud FB RES, With Over Two Hundred Customisation Options

In 2015, Ferdinand Berthoud, a brand with a historical name resurrected by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president, unveiled the Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB1. Since then, we’ve witnessed the successful launch of numerous references in the FB1, FB2, and FB3 collections. These releases have showcased groundbreaking engineering innovations and distinguished themselves with their exceptional design, setting them […]

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for Teddy Baldassarre
Rado Apr 3, 2024

What You Should Know Before Buying the Rado Captain Cook (Updated for

Since it hit the market less than a decade ago, the Rado Captain Cook has rapidly built an avid following among watch enthusiasts while also casting a brighter spotlight on its parent brand, which had previously been known more for avant-garde, fashion-oriented timepieces than vintage-look, sport-focused ones. Eyeing one of these retro-stylish and accessibly priced divers as your next watch purchase? Here is what you need to know about the Rado Captain Cook collection. The Brand Behind the Captain: Rado History Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements but eventually found success as a watch producer in 1957 with the launch of the Rado brand (the name means “wheel” in Esperanto) and its first timepiece, the Rado Golden Horse, one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. The company followed it up in 1962 with the futuristic DiaStar model (below) - touted as “the world’s first scratch-proof watch” and recognized as the first commercially available “ceramic watch” - which was groundbreaking in its use of hardmetal and sapphire glass for increased scratch-resistance.  The DiaStar ushered in Rado’s modern credo of exploring the most avant-garde, high-tech materials for ideal comfort and durability in its wat...

Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T Worn & Wound
Doxa s Iconic Diver Apr 3, 2024

Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T

The word “cult” gets thrown around a lot when discussing Doxa. Their dive watches have a decidedly niche appeal and fans of the brand really love them in a way that sometimes goes beyond casual appreciation. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community whether you’re part of the Doxa cult or not, as inevitably some of that enthusiasm and goodwill spills over into the rest of the hobby. What’s interesting though is that as time passes and Doxa grows, the cult objects have become more mainstream. That’s exemplified perfectly in the new Sub 200T, a more accessible version of the brand’s signature (and perhaps strangest) watch.  The Sub 200T is one of those watches that, once you see it, you’re kind of surprised hadn’t existed until now. The Sub 200T takes the signature case lines and design language of the Sub 300 and shrinks everything down into a more wearable, casual, package. We get the same cushion style case, multi-scale bezel, small dial opening, and even the beads of rice bracelet in a footprint measuring 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug to lug (and 10.7mm tall). That’s down from 42.5mm in the Sub 300, so there should be a meaningful difference in how these watches wear.  Beyond the smaller package, Doxa is seemingly trying to cast a wider net in who this watch appeals to by going absolutely full tilt on color options. You can have the Sub 200T in any signature Doxa color you like, plus a new dark green option they’ve dubbed Sea Emerald. A...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01 Fratello
Mido Apr 3, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01

Am I going to try to put as many television references as possible into this article or not? I needed to ask myself that question before starting this hands-on introduction to the new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01. Well, obviously, I couldn’t help myself, as you can read in the subtitle. But I will […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01 to read the full article.

First Look – New Indie Watch Brand Guebly Launches with the Chapitre 1 Watch Monochrome
Apr 3, 2024

First Look – New Indie Watch Brand Guebly Launches with the Chapitre 1 Watch

Passion sometimes leads enthusiasts down unexpected paths. For some, the journey begins with an insatiable curiosity, gradually evolving into a deep-seated appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship behind each timepiece. Such was the case for Adnane Kerd, a dedicated watch collector whose journey has now taken a remarkable turn as he ventures into the realm […]

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Doxa SUB 200T Collection Now Apr 3, 2024

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video)

The design for Doxa’s signature diving watches, labelled SUB (and in particular the emblematic SUB 300 collection), was first introduced in 1966 and proved to be the blueprint for what we know and love today. While the iconic design has been retained over the years, Doxa has been playing around with the overall concept in […]

First Look – M.A.D. Editions Releases the M.A.D. 1 ‘Time to Love’ by Designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Monochrome
MB&F; Apr 3, 2024

First Look – M.A.D. Editions Releases the M.A.D. 1 ‘Time to Love’ by Designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

MB&F;, or Max Büsser & Friends, is an indie brand that thrives on the creative input of its friends. Pooling together different talents, Max Büsser has produced some extraordinary mechanical and artistic collaborations. While most watch fans get a kick out of MB&F;’s creations and collaborations, very few of us can afford them. To remedy […]

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Styles the MB&F; M.A.D. 1 SJX Watches
MB&F; Apr 3, 2024

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Styles the MB&F; M.A.D. 1

The first limited edition from MB&F;’s affordable sub-brand is the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love”, created in collaboration with French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC. A variant of the standard model endowed with Mr de Castelbajac’s touch – including numerals in his handwriting – the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” is a 999-piece edition that will be sold via an online raffle. A designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him collaborate with brands like from Swatch and design a coat made of teddy bears for Madonna, Mr de Castelbajac was most recently artistic director for Benetton. The M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” reflects his trademark colourful and whimsical style. Initial thoughts Conceptually and aesthetically, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” makes sense. Mr de Castelbajac’s style complements M.A.D. Editions’s affordable, fun brand of watchmaking, making this the most interesting M.A.D.1 edition to date. The fact that it’s a relatively small run of 999 pieces and priced almost the same as the regular version enhances the appeal. More broadly, the collaboration also chimes with parent brand MB&F;’s retro-nostalgia philosophy, where many of its creations are inspired by founder Maximilian Büsser’s youth. According to the brand, “the young Maximilian Büsser was a huge fan, saving up his pocket money for one of the designer’s bathing suits featuring pandas on it”, when Mr de Castelbajac’s brand was at its peak in the ...

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver SJX Watches
Apr 3, 2024

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Apr 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition

I am always happy to try a new Zenith watch, especially when it’s made of precious materials. And that’s precisely what this Chronomaster Sport is about, boasting a rose gold case, a spinel-, diamond-, and sapphire-set bezel, and a gold meteorite dial with diamonds. Chronomaster Sport 22.3100.3600/69.M3100 This Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 18K rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition to read the full article.

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First International Flagship Apr 2, 2024

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC

Last Thursday, collectors, enthusiasts, and members of the Worn & Wound team came together to celebrate the opening of Grand Seiko’s latest Flagship Boutique, which opened on New York’s iconic Madison Avenue in February. The first boutique of its kind anywhere outside of Japan, this new space is a remarkable testament to the enormous popularity and respect Grand Seiko has garnered since its introduction to the international market in 2010. The event drew in collectors from all over the East Coast and offered a rare after-hours opportunity to explore Grand Seiko’s wide-ranging collection. New York City collectors have, for the last few years, been lucky enough to have access to Grand Seiko’s marvelous SoHo boutique. That space, which Zach Weiss visited in 2021, is a small, intimate affair, with white-washed brick walls and a narrow footprint, perfectly placed among the cast-iron architecture and red brick buildings of the neighborhood. This new Flagship Boutique is something else entirely. Entering the warm, sun-drenched main hall of the boutique from the cool New York City weather, you’re greeted by a space unlike any other, with tall ceilings, Japanese carpentry, and glass everywhere you turn. It’s an easy space to get drawn into but, like an iceberg, there is plenty that sits below the water, or in this case, below street level.  Following the large staircase to the lower floor reveals an intimate lounge space and bar. It was this wonderful space that played...

First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Monochrome
Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Apr 2, 2024

First Look – The Louis Vuitton X Frank Gehry Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire

It’s full steam ahead for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division, an appropriate metaphor for a brand founded on Monsieur Vuitton’s revolutionary stacking canvas trunks and long associated with the ‘art of travel’. With the incorporation of the high-end watchmaking manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps in 2011, the brand can produce spectacularly complicated timepieces underscored by a […]

The Revived Cornell Watch Co. Puts a Spotlight on American Watchmaking, with an Assist from RGM Worn & Wound
RGM Apr 2, 2024

The Revived Cornell Watch Co. Puts a Spotlight on American Watchmaking, with an Assist from RGM

To many people, Roland Murphy is American watchmaking. His company, RGM Watch Co., is revered among watch enthusiasts for producing pieces that rival anything put out by the best Swiss watchmakers, all done in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Murphy was, then, a natural partner for the Cornell Watch Company, a newly revived heritage brand out of Chicago that founder–or re-founder, I suppose–John Warren hopes can help bring attention to the American watch industry and its rich heritage. “I think people don’t know that American companies made more watches between the late 1850s and early 1900s than anywhere in the world,” said Warren in an interview with Worn & Wound. “I don’t think people know that we pioneered the American system of watchmaking that was adopted by the Swiss and the Japanese. I think it’s a story people want to know and it’s worth telling.” Cornell’s story began in 1870, when Paul Cornell and John C. Adams founded the Cornell Watch Company to create railroad pocket watches. Cornell was prolific in timepiece production for a few years, but two tragedies, the Great Chicago Fire and the financial crisis of the Panic of 1873, hit the company hard, and brought it to an end. While an attempt to move Cornell to California to save it was made–along with an attempt at rebranding as the California Watch Company–Cornell shut down not long after. But several Cornell’s pocket watches led to the company having a second life when they were discovered b...

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 2, 2024

Norqain is Ready for Spring with Pastel Shades for the Freedom 60 Chronograph

Swiss watchmaker Norqain has just released the colorful Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection. Showcasing three colorways, this collection is inspired by the idyllic charm of Tuscany, capturing the essence of la dolce vita, mixed with the precision and design elements for which Norqain is known. Each watch in the collection features a 316L stainless steel case in the now familiar Freedom 60 silhouette that evokes classic sports watches from the past. With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 14.90mm, these timepieces strike the perfect balance of having presence on the wrist without too much additional bulk.  The Freedom 60 Chrono 40 mm collection is available in three new pastel color options: Sky Blue, Pistachio, and Peach, each dial reminiscent of one’s favorite gelateria. Each dial has a darker complementary sub-dial, outer ring, and tachymeter scale to tie the everything  together. An anthracite Norqain logo and black counters at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock add depth to the dial, while diamond-cut flat indexes ensure readability in a variety of lighting conditions. The color matched date window, positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock, adds a practical complication, while diamond-cut faceted hour and minute hands, filled with Superluminova, enhance visibility in low-light environments. The Freedom 60 Chrono 40mm collection is powered by the mechanical Norqain caliber N19 (a modified Sellita SW510), offering 62 hours of power reserve.  Watches are offered in three strap varie...

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years Fratello
Omega introduced Apr 2, 2024

The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years

Five years ago, Omega introduced the last limited-edition Speedmaster models. Who would have thought? After a good ~25 years of introducing many different Speedmaster limited editions, sometimes even more than one per year, the brand just stopped. Well, not entirely, of course, because although the Speedmaster Calibre 321 and Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary […] Visit The Best Speedmasters Of The Last Five Years to read the full article.

First Look – The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – A World’s First Reconciling World-Timer and Daylight Saving Time Monochrome
Bovet Apr 2, 2024

First Look – The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – A World’s First Reconciling World-Timer and Daylight Saving Time

In 2001, Pascal Raffy, a passionate collector of haute horlogerie, acquired the prestigious name Bovet and embarked on a remarkable journey to revive the brand to its former glory. Mr. Raffy spared no effort in establishing a manufacture characterized by an exceptional level of integration. Among its various achievements, Bovet introduced a series of exquisitely […]

Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection Fratello
Bravur Apr 2, 2024

Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection

The people at Swedish brand Bravur are about as crazy about watches as they are about cycling. Last year, the brand from Båstad gave us the Grand Tour Chronograph series inspired by the three grand tours - Giro d’Italia, Tour de France, and Vuelta a España. This year, the inspiration comes from iconic cycling teams […] Visit Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection to read the full article.

Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro Fratello
Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline Apr 2, 2024

Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro

It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.