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Results for Pilot Watch

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Pilot Watch

The aviation tool-watch genre. Cartier Santos (1904), the WWII B-Uhr, the French Type 20 flyback, the RAF Mark XI, the Breitling Navitimer.

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History of the Cartier Santos: the first pilot watch, and arguably the first proper wristwatch

Louis Cartier built it in 1904 for his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, who was fed up fumbling for his pocket watch mid-flight. 121 years later the square case with exposed screws is still the sharpest dress-sports piece on the shelf. Here is how it got there.

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

We made a tribute video to the baddest DOXA ever, which is about to sell out Time+Tide
Doxa ever which Aug 28, 2020

We made a tribute video to the baddest DOXA ever, which is about to sell out

It’s no secret that we are massive fanboys (and girls) of DOXA. It’s why we’re the Australian distributor for the brand. Do we distribute lots of brands? No, just one. We believe DOXA offer some of the best bang for buck on the market for the watch lover – whether it’s at the higher end … ContinuedThe post We made a tribute video to the baddest DOXA ever, which is about to sell out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Nighthawk Review Oct 22, 2025

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch

Citizen's fleet of Promaster Pilot watches offer an array of styles and complications for the aviation-watch enthusiast, and the Nighthawk models occupy a specific niche within the overall collection thanks to their bold, no-nonsense design drawn from military helicopter cockpits. Here is what you should know about the Citizen Nighthawk, and a showcase of the models that have most resonated with enthusiasts. The flight of the Nighthawk begins with the Promaster. In fact, Citizen’s Promaster collection - established in 1989 and built around the concept of rugged yet stylish, multifunctional timepieces aimed at sea, air, and land professionals - could be described as the massive aircraft carrier from which many Citizen pilots’ watches have been launched. From this now-emblematic collection emerged many of the famous Citizen tool watches we’re familiar with today, categorized under Promaster Marine (dive watches including the Eco-Drive and Mechanical Professional Divers as well as the high-tech Aqualand); Promaster Land (including the altimeter-equipped Altichron and ana-digi Combination Watch) and Promaster Sky, which includes GMTs like the Eco-Drive Geo-Trekker and the now-familiar “Hawk” watches with multiple aviation-centric functions, like the Skyhawk, Navihawk, and Nighthawk. What makes the Nighthawk models stand out from their high-flying peers? It is the most military in its aesthetic, with a dial design inspired by the instruments found in the cockpits ...

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate - Which Model Defines The Legend? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Jul 10, 2026

Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate - Which Model Defines The Legend?

Few watches have inspired as many variations, stories, and passionate debates as the Omega Speedmaster. Over nearly seven decades, it has evolved from a racing chronograph into one of the most celebrated watches in horology, with countless references that appeal to a wide range of collectors. Ask three enthusiasts to name their favorite Speedmasters, and […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Ultimate Omega Speedmaster Debate — Which Model Defines The Legend? to read the full article.

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Gold SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Feb 17, 2026

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Gold

Daniel Roth announced a subtle shift in its direction with the recent Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. While the brand’s prior models like the tourbillon were essentially remakes of models made by the brand in the 1990s, the Extra Plat skeleton is an entirely new model that shares practically nothing with historical designs save for the case shape. Because the Extra Plat skeleton is, well, skeleton, it ably shows off the quality of execution on both sides. Beyond finishing, the movement also stands out for details that illustrate the taste of its constructor(s). It’s telling that the movement could have been done more simply without anyone noticing, but it wasn’t. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth’s resurrection got off to a strong start, underpinned by watches with top quality execution. The initial models, however, were remakes of 1990s originals. A brand with Daniel Roth’s ambitions (and well-resourced backer) won’t go very far with only replicas of historical models. The Extra Plat Skeleton illustrates the people behind the brand understand that. The Extra Plat Skeleton, in contrast, is the first all-new model rolled out by Daniel Roth in its current form. It encapsulates all of the strengths of the brand, namely the capable, high-end watchmaking of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) and the distinctive double-ellipse case. While the Extra Plat Skeleton is powered by a movement derived from that in the Extra Plat, it is clearly a different calibre. And because the movemen...

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review Teddy Baldassarre
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review Jan 29, 2025

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review

Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...

Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 SJX Watches
Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 Breguet’s Oct 23, 2024

Up Close: Breguet Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367

Breguet’s ultra-thin tourbillon has been in its catalogue for some years now, but it remains one of the brand’s most sophisticated tourbillon models. The Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 is just 7.45 mm high, making it one of the thinnest self-winding tourbillon watches on the market, a feat made possible thanks to clever peripheral winding. Though its movement is the brand’s latest tourbillon calibre, the 5367 is presented in classic Breguet style – with the enamel dial here or as the 5365 with a guilloche dial – and retains the quintessential Breguet elegance. Initial thoughts Unlike Breguet’s flagship tourbillon model, the massive Double Tourbillon 5345, the 5367 is slim, elegant, and feels like a classical Breguet. In terms of proportions the 5367 is comparable to the 7637 minute repeater, but the tourbillon is thinner and importantly, boasts a more modern movement. The enamel dial is available in traditional white or contemporary blue While the 7637 repeater is powered by a movement that has its roots in the 1980s, the 5367 contains the cal. 581, which is instantly recognisable as a recent construction. The most obvious giveaway is the automatic rotor camouflaged on the periphery, while the tourbillon contains a silicon escapement. The modernity of the construction means the cal. 581 lacks the old-school charm of Breguet’s earlier tourbillon movements, but the sophistication of the cal. 581 is undeniable. Not only is it exceptionally thin, it manages an impre...

The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function Time+Tide
Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial Aug 31, 2023

The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function

The new Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial is limited to 350 pieces It sports a 100m water-resistant Duratect Gold Super Titanium case that’s more than five times harder than standard steel Black washi paper dials are sprinkled with gold leaf through Sunago-maki – no two are the same When I personally define the characteristics … ContinuedThe post The new Citizen Black Washi Paper Dial maximises aesthetics and function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich” which Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked Time+Tide
Hublot pulled apart Nov 13, 2019

That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked

Editor’s note: Early last year, our fearless leader Andrew McUtchen was fortunate enough to breach the inner sanctum of Hublot’s High Complication Department and have a chat with the boss, Emmanuel Missillier. What’s more, Mr Missillier proceeded to pull apart one of Hublot’s intricate tourbillon movements, all for our viewing pleasure.  Hublot have made big strides … ContinuedThe post That time Hublot pulled apart a tourbillon cage to show us how it worked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You WristBuzz
4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You Jul 11, 2026

4-Digit, 5-Digit or 6-Digit Rolex: The Three Eras, the Real Differences, and Which One Fits You

Every serial-obsessed Rolex conversation starts here: the reference number tells you the era, and the era tells you the spec. Acrylic vs sapphire, aluminium vs Cerachrom, tritium vs Chromalight, and why the 5-digit refs are the sweet spot most collectors quietly agree on.