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Grand Seiko Introduces a Trio of US Exclusive References Inspired by the Katana Blade Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 18, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces a Trio of US Exclusive References Inspired by the Katana Blade

With their latest set of US exclusive releases, Grand Seiko turns their attention to the katana, a Japanese sword, crafted from steel, that has become a symbol of Japanese culture across the world. There is a real art to creating a katana blade, and with these new watches, Grand Seiko is drawing inspiration from that centuries old process in much the same way they’ve built a cottage industry around watches that pull in aesthetic inspiration from the changing seasons and the natural world. What really links the katana to these watches though, and it’s something absent from the nature inspired dial designs, is a focus on craft. A katana blade is formed by heating iron sand in a special furnace called a tatara, with the melted sand becoming the steel known as tamahagane, a traditional Japanese material. Layers of metal are stacked individually, one on top of the other, heated, forged, folded, and cooled with water until the core of the sword takes shape. Eventually the blade is polished, taking on the familiar edge you’d expect, in a process that is not too dissimilar from putting a mirror shine on a Grand Seiko case, at least in the sense that both are done by hand by highly skilled craftspeople.  There are three releases in total in this mini collection inspired by the katana. The SBGA489, inspired by kawagane, the outer, sharp edge of a katana blade, has a black dial with a lightly stippled texture modeled after tamahagane steel. The SBGA491 features the same dial t...

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The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko challenged one another while Aug 16, 2023

The Latest King Seiko Limited Edition Calls on Japanese Craft Traditions for Inspiration

Some things are as sure as the rising sun, and in the Land of the Rising Sun, that means nature-inspired dials from Seiko…King Seiko, to be exact. As friendly divisional rivals in the 60s and early 70s, the workshops of King Seiko and Grand Seiko challenged one another while pushing the technical and aesthetic envelope of Japanese watchmaking. While some consider GS victorious as the KS name was sunsetted in 1975, the reality is that both were instrumental in establishing Seiko’s mid-century identity. More recently, Grand Seiko has spun off as a high-end, independent brand, and the King Seiko nameplate was rebooted in February of last year as a more premium offering within Seiko. Today, we take a look at a watch that isn’t entirely new yet brings an interesting flourish to the recently resurrected collection. The SJE095’s specifications are reasonable for the average wrist: 38.6mm x 45.8mm x 10.7mm, 5 bar water resistance, and powered by in-house caliber 6L35 (28,800 vph, 45 hour power reserve, +15/-10s a day) with a date complication and boxed sapphire crystal. Like the other SJE and SPB-reference King Seikos, it features a striking stainless steel case, sharp angles, and expansive flat surfaces, attributes of the original 1965 KSK on which the entire modern KS line is based. This new dial features a self-repeating pattern of circles and fine lines known as kiku tsunagi-mon. This particular design holds special significance in Japanese culture for several reasons....

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King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko pays homage Aug 10, 2023

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum

Seiko has unveiled a limited-edition iteration of its vintage-inspired timepiece, the King Seiko. The King Seiko SJE095 features a textured dial adorned with a uniquely Japanese motif-a geometric pattern known as kiku tsunagi-mon inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. Save for the patterned dial, the limited edition maintains the compact case profile found in the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 was earlier this year.  Initial thoughts While the latest King Seiko models have a notably streamlined case, the stylistic resemblance to the original from 1965 bordered on being a vintage remake. Fortunately, Seiko has decided to create a standout iteration (albeit a limited edition) that, as is often the case with Seiko and Grand Seiko, pays homage to Japanese culture in the dial decoration. The highlight is the intricate geometric pattern on the dial. Besides evoking traditional Japanese cut-glassware, the engraving possesses a degree of elegance, while upholding a sense of balance in the dial. The balance could have been improved if the date window were absent, allowing the engraving to run uninterrupted across the dial.  This limited edition carries a price of US$3,400, just US$100 more than the standard King Seiko. The small difference makes this a no-brainer over the regular production model, though it can be argued this is somewhat pricey in absolute terms for a mid-range Seiko model. Rooted in tradition This limited edition draws substantial inspiration from the chrysanthe...

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A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive Aug 7, 2023

A Lion’s-Mane Dial for the Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive

The Sport case inspired by the Grand Seiko emblem is a fairly new addition to the brand’s stable, having made its debut in 2019 with a trio of limited editions to mark the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive. Now the distinctive facetted case joins the regular collection with the Sport Spring Drive SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”. The big and bold case is accompanied by a fresh opaline dial featuring a texture reminiscent of a lion’s mane.  Initial thoughts  Although Grand Seiko historically expended a significant amount of effort in developing its more formal offerings, it more recently extended its efforts towards its Sports line, particularly the “Lion” models with its trademark facetted case. Initially found only on limited editions, this case has now transitioned into a readily-available production model. As with many Grand Seiko watches, sports or not, the Tokyo Lion’s standout feature is the dial, specifically the intricate and abstract textured pattern that complements the zaratsu polishing on the titanium case. The pattern is appealing enough that I hope the brand further iterates on this captivating pattern; though I expect that is a given since Grand Seiko inevitably iterates on successful models and elements. It is worth noting that the Tokyo Lion is fairly oversized at 44.5 mm, like many Grand Seiko Sports models, but given that the case and bracelet are made from titanium, it should feel light and comfortable while on the wrist.  The Tokyo Lion is pric...

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Football is running on Hublot time Time+Tide
Hublot time As I settled Aug 5, 2023

Football is running on Hublot time

As I settled into the cushioned seats metres away from the meticulously groomed turf of AAMI Park (or Melbourne Rectangular Stadium if you prefer a totally unimaginative name), referee Stephanie Frappart led the Australian and Canadian teams out of the tunnel. With a single shrill whistle, the digital clock with a big “HUBLOT” sign started … ContinuedThe post Football is running on Hublot time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Aug 2, 2023

[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

We were thrilled to see Seiko return to the Speedtimer in Solar Chronograph form earlier this summer, recalling the design of the iconic Sportura of the ‘90s. The concept is a deconstructed chronograph, and Seiko has brought all the components under a single crystal with this newest Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. There is a dizzying array of activity on the watch when the timer is brought to life, and in this video we’re breaking everything down in a first look. Keep an eye out for the full review coming soon.  The case and bracelet of the most recent Speedtimer could be called traditional in comparison to the original, making the somewhat large footprint quite wearable thanks to the curved and truncated lug design. Still, this isn’t a watch for the faint of heart. Switching modes is like putting a race car into full tilt, with all the needles neatly aligning at 12. This watch is capable of timing down to 1/100th of a second, and seeing that totalizer in action is otherworldly in the best possible way. There are four references of the new Speedtimer collection, two of which will be regular production models, with the other two enjoying limited edition status. The black on black dial, as well as the panda dial are welcome regular additions to the growing Prospex tool watch empire, while the other two examples bring a slightly different visual to the mix thanks to unique colorways and texture pairings.  At first blush, the new Speedtimer captures a bit of the ...

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The Seiko Speedtimer Is Back! And Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko Speedtimer Jul 27, 2023

The Seiko Speedtimer Is Back! And Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop

Seiko is a brand that has never been afraid of pushing the limits of design, eschewing in many instances what other brands may consider the standard of what a watch should look like. A perfect example of this is their 90’s creation, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. Bold, unique, and designed unlike many chronographs before it, the Sportura Kinetic became an instant cult classic. Three decades later, the brand has drawn inspiration from this reference to give us the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph collection. Seiko is a brand that has never been afraid of pushing the limits of design, eschewing in many instances what other brands may consider the standard of what a watch should look like. A perfect example of this is their 90’s creation, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. Bold, unique, and designed unlike many chronographs before it, the Sportura Kinetic became an instant cult classic. Three decades later, the brand has drawn inspiration from this reference to give us the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph collection. The post The Seiko Speedtimer Is Back! And Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 Worn & Wound
Seiko Alpinist SARB017 We all Jul 18, 2023

[VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017

We all have unique origin stories about the watches that got us into the hobby, or the watches responsible for pulling us in deeper. As varied as those stories surely are, the overlap of appearances by a certain handful of watches is likely quite high. While not universal, I’d wager that the highest percentage of overlap is among Seiko watches, stuff like the SKX007, the 6139, and the Alpinist SARB017. Each of those references make appearances somewhere along the early stages of my own journey, and this Missed Review will focus specifically on that last one, the Alpinist SARB017, a watch that’s easy to take for granted these days. There was a time, however, when this watch had a near mythic appeal. In some ways, it still does.  The Alpinist holds an interesting place in Seiko history, and while the name may no longer exist formally, it still holds a tremendous amount of equity when it comes to Seiko field watches and their enthusiasts. The name itself dates back to the early ‘60s with the Laurel Alpinist and Champion Alpinist, though it wouldn’t appear on a modern design until 1995 with the so-called ‘red Alpinist’ SCVF references designed by Shigeo Sakai. It is this design that would set the template for the 2006 SARB references, and the current Prospex Land watches which no longer employ the Alpinist nomenclature. $700 [VIDEO] Missed Review: The Seiko Alpinist SARB017 Case Stainless Steel Movement 6R15 Dial Almond Green Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Stra...

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UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will Jul 16, 2023

UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition

The notion of a nature-inspired watch is nothing new for Grand Seiko, it is certainly their M.O. But when the Grand Seiko SBGJ269 “Pink Flannel Flower” Limited Edition was released last year it was a huge deal for multiple reasons. Firstly, the SBGJ269 was the first-ever Australian limited edition from Grand Seiko. Secondly, the 50-piece … ContinuedThe post UPDATE: The winner of the Grand Seiko AU SBGJ269 auction will also get a VIP trip to Japan – under one condition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

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[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

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[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case Worn & Wound
Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Jun 14, 2023

[LIVE PICS] Longines Spirit Zulu Time GMT Welcomes New 39mm Case

Longines released the first Spirit Zulu Time last year, offering a so-called true GMT in a 42mm steel case with all the Spirit design details we’ve come to expect from Longines. As good as that watch was, the case was a bit overpowering for some wrists out there, and Longines has heard the calls for a more approachable sized GMT. This is the Zulu Time GMT in 39mm, and it captures pretty much everything we loved in the original model, in a much tidier package. This is a watch that will sit directly across from the Tudor Black Bay Pro, offering a slightly different, but similar level of appeal.  The latest Zulu Time remains in the Spirit collection, and yes, the 5 applied stars remain on the dial. There are plenty of polished details to discover in places like the surround of the chapter ring, the frame of the bezel, and those aforementioned stars. Like other Spirit watches, this Zulu Time has a taste of the ornate, which might push it into slightly more interesting (or less interesting, depending on your taste) territory compared to something like the far more straightforward and tool-ish Black Bay Pro from Tudor. Longines does address the most common complaint levied against that Tudor, however. The Zulu Time 39 measures 39mm in diameter, and 13.5mm in thickness, a full millimeter clear of the Black Bay Pro. That said, I’m not sure I’d have guessed that on the wrist. It felt perfectly pleasant on my 7.25” wrist, and it didn’t immediately strike me as a thick wat...

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HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 Jun 14, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42

The Longines Spirit lineup has become a go-to collection to recommend when someone asks what a great option would be for an entry-level Swiss luxury watch. The collection, now three years into its current generation, has seen quite rapid growth with a variety of aesthetic and functional configurations. Born initially in 2020 with 40mm and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39 offers a more compact and ergonomic take on the prior 42 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer Worn & Wound
Seiko Pays Tribute Jun 12, 2023

Seiko Pays Tribute to a Cult Classic with their Latest Prospex Speedtimer

You can put this one in the category of: We Didn’t See it Coming. Seiko has just launched a new Prospex branded version of a watch that can be described as a true cult hit of the early aughts, the Seiko Sportura Kinetic. If you’re scratching your head trying to remember the Sportura and coming up empty, perhaps you know it as “the Jay Leno,” as the former Tonight Show host is fond of wearing one while tooling around in steam powered fire trucks from the 1910s, or whatever. The Sportura’s fans, though, are legion. Our co-founder Zach Weiss is a Sportura owner, and I don’t think he even drives a Duesenberg.  The new watches are being framed as a new chapter in the ongoing story of Seiko as a timer of competitive sporting events, which dates back to the 1960s. The conceit of the Sportura was a deconstructed chronograph display that shows elapsed time in three separate dial displays, each covered with a small custom crystal, which must have been terribly expensive and difficult to fabricate. The new watches (there are four in total) are simpler, with a layout that consists of a main dial for the time at 6:00, with what amounts to a trio of subdials arcing over it that display elapsed time. On the new watches, everything is part of one dial, so we lose some of that weird disconnected feeling, but much of the aesthetic sensibility remains.  Functionally, they’re a bit different from the originals, as you’d expect given advancements in movement tech. While Kinet...

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Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References Worn & Wound
Seiko Reveals New Trimmer King Jun 5, 2023

Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References

Seiko is continuing to refine their modern King Seiko collection with a series of iterations seen in a pair of new references: the SJE089, and the SJE091. The evolution may not be visible at a glance, but a closer look reveals a new date-equipped movement at use, a slimmer case, and a slightly altered profile, all done in the service of ergonomics. The result is a new King Seiko that measures just 10.7mm in thickness, shaving a few tenths off the first releases we saw in 2022, while adding a date complication at the same time. Overall the design is still heavily referential to the original 1965 King Seiko KSK, which has a special place in Seiko history that you can read more about in our introduction of the 2020 LE that set the template for the modern references we enjoy today.  The new King Seiko references bring a date back to the dial at 3 o’clock thanks to the caliber 6L35 inside, which is making its first appearance in the main King Seiko collection. This is the most notable difference from the initial SPB King Seiko references launched last year, which used the 6R31 movement. The SJE references land a bit closer to the original as a result, and remain relatively demure with the same silver and black dial options. The case is what really deserves a closer inspection here. It remains steel and measures 38.6mm in diameter, however features a new trimmer lug profile that integrates a bit more seamlessly to the case via the large, flat surfaces that define its shape. T...

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Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 2, 2023

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091

Since its relaunch last year, King Seiko has emerged as something of a budget-friendly alternative to Grand Seiko with its straightforward, vintage-inspired designs. Continuing in the same direction are the latest additions to the line, the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091. Most notably, the new models boast a slimmer case compared to their predecessors, thanks to the higher-end cal. 6L35 inside. Despite the tweaks, both retain retro styling that pays homage to the King Seiko “KSK” from 1965. Initial thoughts While last year’s King Seiko models were executed well, I felt they were missing something, particularly in terms of case proportions. They were a little too thick for a vintage-style watch. Therefore, a slimmer version with the more precise cal. 6L35 movement is welcome. The new King Seiko remains conservative in style and almost a vintage remake. However, the case is significantly slimmer at 10.7 mm, compared to over 12 mm for last year’s model. This was achieved with a flattened “box” sapphire crystal and a redesigned case middle with thinner lugs, giving it dimensions better suited to the design.  The SJE091 The only drawback is the price of US$3,300, which is almost double last year’s King Seiko models. While the difference is justified by the improved movement and better case proportions, it might be tough to stomach given the stylistic similarity between the two. A slimmer case The new additions are modelled on the “KSK” model of 1965. They have ...

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eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits Worn & Wound
Seiko Rado Simplon & More May 18, 2023

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage King Seiko 45-7000 King Seikos were one of Seiko’s high end dress watch lines, and to this day they are still highly under-rated. This model, the 45-7000 is easily one of their best ever designs. A classic example of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, with bold flat planes and sharp edges on the stainless steel case. The clean silver dial with no date and the manual wind hi-beat movement make it nearly perfect. I can tell you from experience that this model is very difficult to find in excellent condition, having looked for one for about 10 years. Recently I found one from a seller in Singapore, otherwise I’d be buying this example myself! The case has been refinished, which I would usually avoid, but it was done by Lapinist who does simply stunning work and actually finishes the cases with the same Zaratsu technique as Seiko. This one also comes with a super cool see-through caseback (still has the original too), so you can see that beautiful movement! View auction here. Vintage CWC Chronograph Here we have a brilliant vintage military issue chronograph. This CWC two-register chrono has markings indicating it was issued to the British Royal Air Force. The large 39m wide a...

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Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces May 10, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Astron GPS Solar, Redesigned and Sleeker

Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors.  And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction  The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...

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Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” May 1, 2023

Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie”

On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. The post Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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