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Monochrome
In 2020, Guillaume Laidet breathed new life into Nivada Grenchen, unveiling heritage-inspired models like the Chronomaster and the Antarctic. The brand’s resurgence continued with modern interpretations and reissues, including the Super Antarctic series, the brand’s take on the exploration watch. The collaboration with Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has given rise to the latest release, the […]
Time+Tide
If you have other suggestions - we're all ears.The post The Citizen Series 8 GMT is the best true GMT for under US$2,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”. The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...
Monochrome
Picture this: the days are getting shorter, nights are getting longer, the temperature is dropping, and it’s snowing for days on end. As you gaze outside to admire the snow-covered landscape, you notice the windows are frosted over. Ice crystals have formed on the edges of the thin transparent barrier that keeps the warmth in […]
Time+Tide
When is a Nomos watch not a watch? When it's a sundial you can wear on your finger.The post The Nomos Sundial ring is a practical and stylish piece of horological art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
You are invited to join Worn & Wound for a party celebrating the NEW Citizen Flagship Boutique in the heart of NYC. On Tuesday, December 12, be among the first to experience this stunning boutique celebrating the watches of Citizen. Join both the Worn & Wound and Citizen teams, as well as fellow enthusiasts for an after-hours deep dive into the Citizen collection. Enjoy drinks, snacks, and great company. Anyone who comes will be entered into a giveaway to win a Citizen watch and everyone will also get a special gift. Space is limited so don’t miss out! Get all the event details and add your RSVP here. Please note: An RSVP must be submitted for each person interested in attending. The post You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
A one-for-one reissue of a vintage favorite slims the Antarctic down to original proportions. We got our hands on both to pick a favorite.
Hodinkee
Three of Hodinkee's biggest vintage fans go head to head with $100,000 budgets while previewing the New York auctions. But who comes away with the best collection?
Worn & Wound
I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...
Worn & Wound
DOXA has recently announced the release of the all new Sub 300β, a reimagining of their classic dive watch. Coming in five colorways, the latest iteration of the Sub 300β will catch the eye of those unfamiliar with the brand, while reiterating why DOXA has sustained a cult-like following for nearly the entirety of its 130-year history. To understand the 300β, let’s first look back at the history of the Sub line. In 1967, DOXA revolutionized professional diving watches with the introduction of the SUB concept, the first mainstream model of its kind. Water-resistant to 300 meters, it featured a groundbreaking unidirectional rotating bezel with dual dive time and depth indications, incorporating the US Navy’s no-decompression dive tables. The iconic orange dial set it apart and became synonymous with underwater exploration, even catching the attention of Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who secured exclusive distribution rights for the SUB 300 in the USA. In 1969, DOXA continued its innovation with the SUB 300T Conquistador, introducing the helium release valve (HRV). Designed for saturation diving, the HRV allows trapped helium to escape during decompression, preventing pressure build-up and potential damage to the watch. This marked another pioneering move by DOXA in ensuring the durability and functionality of their timepieces in the most challenging underwater environments. Now, available today, the new 300β has taken this history as a jumping-off point for the brand to rei...
Video
Monochrome
While the modern side of Roger Dubuis is unmistakably all about bold high horology (what the brand names Hyper Horology), there’s one collection that might even make a greater impact with watches infused with Medieval mythology and, in particular, by the legendary knights of the fellowship of King Arthur. Ever since the first Knights of […]
Quill & Pad
Ian Skellern, speaking from many years of experience, says that the R8 MKII Sport belt buckle isn’t a show pony, it has much more functionality than simply stylishly holding up your trousers. But above all, it is a pure indulgence.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Is TAG finding its role in the watch market with the Carrera 'Glassbox' release? Or is this another missed opportunity from the Swiss brand?
Monochrome
Established in 1822, Bovet emerged as a prominent player in the high-end timepiece industry. Throughout the 19th century, Bovet became one of the most distinguished names in China, crafting opulent pocket watches adorned with lavish enamels and embellished with pearls. This distinctive, ornate aesthetic has transcended time and echoes in the contemporary Bovet timepieces, a […]
Worn & Wound
In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...
Video
Monochrome
Hanhart is famous for its Flieger chronographs, historic pilot watches with a red pusher to prevent pilots from accidentally zeroing the stop time. However, Hanhart is also renowned for its stopwatches. In fact, Johann Hanhart started life in Switzerland in 1882 as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, where his son, […]
Time+Tide
Fine watchmaking inspired by the symmetry of Leonardo Da Vinci's Vitruvian Man.The post Czapek CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel tells the story of the Antarctique Rattrapante Ice Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If there’s one thing (apart from snow) heralding the start of winter in Scandinavia, it’s frost. The dial of the GoS Sarak Frost recreates the scintillating appearance of icy frost.
Monochrome
German watchmaker Union Glashütte expands its Noramis collection by introducing three chronograph references tailored for aquatic adventures. The Noramis Date Sport (2021) marked the inception of the sporty retro-inspired series, featuring a unidirectionally rotating bezel and boasting 200m water resistance with distinctive gradient dials. Drawing inspiration from the success of this model and existing Noramis […]
Time+Tide
The microbrand tributes WWI-era pieces with an angled display and period-appropriate straps.The post The Vario 1918 Pilot takes on a post-war angle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
SJX Watches
Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...
Monochrome
A few years ago, it would have been hard to imagine a top luxury watch brand partnering with a video game license. The fact is that the perception of the gaming culture has changed radically over the years. Drastically. Once considered geeky and a teenager’s hobby, gaming is now cool and talks to a much […]
Time+Tide
With sporty dials and commemorative boxes, Bulgari is also launching a virtual hypercar playable in Gran Turismo 7.The post Bulgari looks to PlayStation racers with the new Aluminium Chronograph Gran Turismo limited edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
What are complications? How are they classified? What are the best examples in each class? Here is how we propose to classify them.
Quill & Pad
Diver’s watches are meant to be rough, tough tool watches, and limited editions are made to cash in on a model’s popularity. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum is both, yet disproves these paradox presumptions as Martin Green discovered after wearing this watch for a while. What did he think? "It's lit!"
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