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Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear

Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. Whether it’s travel or staying close to home and relaxing, there’s always some room in your EDC to add some new gear. That’s half the fun of it – looking at your daily essentials and refining them to fit your individual needs. It’s an ongoing journey that focuses on having the right gear for the job. It’s no secret that we’re all pretty big gear fans at the Windup Watch Shop, so putting together some of our favorite Summer-ready EDC gear was a no-brainer. Let’s take a look at some brand new gear in the shop that’s sure to come in handy. The post Guide: Some of Our Favorite Summer-Ready EDC Gear appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay GMT in Opaline Silver SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay GMT in Opaline Silver

One of the strongest value propositions at Watches & Wonders is from an unsurprising contender, Tudor. Not entirely new but still compelling, the Black Bay GMT is a new version of the brand’s travel staple, now facelifted with a silver dial that brings to mind the mythical Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Initial thoughts  Since its release in 2018, the Black Bay GMT has been a crowd pleaser, and the newest variant will be as well. Its tangible features like the in-house calibre are obvious, and less apparent is the subtle historical connection. While a silver dial on a sport watch isn’t novel, this is particularly notable for the unspoken reference to the historical Rolex GMT-Master with a white dial reputedly made for Pan American Airways. The fact that the GMT-Master “Pan Am” is so famous yet controversial in terms of provenance  gives this Black Bay GMT an amusing and interesting historical angle. Apart from the dial, there is no difference between this and the version with a black dial that came before. The price remains unchanged, and it still offers great value for money.  The only criticism that I have is the same as for the earlier version: the case is chunky at 41 mm in diameter; the case is thick as well. I’m certain a more compact Tudor GMT model will arrive one day, especially with the just-launched Black Bay 54 that is 37 mm. Opaline dial The dial on the new Black Bay GMT retains the same dial layout with “snowflake” hands, including its lozen...

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGA469 I decided Mar 27, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap

Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders.  My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater Jan 7, 2022

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater

Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? Time+Tide
Richard Mille thrill you or make Jun 27, 2021

Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?

Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee Time+Tide
Rolex story Apr 7, 2021

The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee

There was a major Rolex announcement hidden in plain sight today. It was not mentioned during Rolex’s Watches & Wonders presentation, but our team of sleuth detectives realised that on Rolex.com the model configurator tool will allow buyers to put the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi & Batman on an Oyster bracelet once again. On … ContinuedThe post The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star” SJX Watches
Mar 23, 2021

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”

A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...

INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a psychedelic conversation starter Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone Mar 8, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a psychedelic conversation starter

Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport. But CEO Julien Tornare and his team are clearly on a roll. The DEFY 21 continues the brand’s momentum with this unexpectedly colourful collaboration with a contemporary artist. The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone finds their high-tech tool watch inhabiting … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone is a psychedelic conversation starter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic Time+Tide
Serica 4512 Oct 25, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic

The WMB came out in 2019 as an unusual and strong contender from the newly formed French microbrand Serica, through an idea from the only American on the team, author of A Man & His Watch, Matt Hranek. Inspired by the iconic Wrist Watch Waterproof of the armed forces, a tough-looking everyday tool watch with … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Serica 4512, a tough French take on classic military utilitarian chic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nomos Introduces the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam Edition SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces Nov 17, 2019

Nomos Introduces the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam Edition

After the 2017 launch of the Orion 38 “De Stijl” – one of the most unusual and intriguing Nomos watches to date – Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has unveiled the fruit of its third collaboration, the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam. Limited to just 25 pieces, the watch is a variation of the Nomos travel watch, distinguished by a handful of distinct but restrained tweaks. Previously available only with a blue or white dial, the Amsterdam edition features white indices and text, along with red accents on a stark, matte black dial. Appreciably, its stark, no-nonsense colour palette comes at a time when Nomos is increasingly relying on pastel-coloured dials. The watch features several nods to the Dutch city, with “Amsterdam” replacing Berlin on the city ring and highlighted in red, while home time is indicated at three o’clock by the flag of Ace Jeweler’s hometown of Amsterdam, made up of three Saint Andrew’s crosses. The rest of the watch is otherwise identical to the standard version. Its steel case measures 39.9mm wide and 10.85mm high, featuring angled, elongated lugs that are similar to the Orion’s and rather distinct from all the other collections. All surfaces of the case are polished, offering a great contrast to the matte dial. A pusher at two o’clock advances the local time display in one-hour steps while a recessed pusher at eight o’clock sets the home time. Visible through the sapphire case back, the watch is powered by the in-house automatic DUW 5...

Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials Time+Tide
Panerai sets sail Oct 21, 2019

Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials

Following on from the successful first collaboration between Panerai and the America’s Cup team Luna Rossa, which spawned the Submersible Luna Rossa, the Italian watchmaker has continued the relationship with the 36th America’s Cup challenger to create three completely new watches. Retaining the same fundamental aesthetic as the first iteration - most notably the dial, which … ContinuedThe post Panerai sets sail for victory with 3 new Luna Rossa specials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection SJX Watches
Casio nally Sep 16, 2019

Habring² Introduces the Salmon Collection

Austrian watchmaker Habring2, highly regarded for its smart, affordable watches, has just revealed the Salmon collection. The new line-up is made up of all of the brand’s key models, but with each watch now offered with a salmon dial. Once found occasionally on vintage watches and now a popular shade for that reason, salmon dials are a novelty for Habring2,  led by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. The brand typically offers its watches in more straightforward shades of silver, blue, black or grey. The salmon colour Habring2 opted for is a strong pink, closer to salmon than copper or pink gold. Here are a few photos of the watches “in the metal” supplied by the Habrings to show how the salmon dials vary in tone depending on the light. The top of the line model is the Perpetual Doppel, recently launched to mark the brand’s 15thanniversary. Its salmon dial is combined with silvered numerals and blued steel hands, the only model in the Salmon collection with heat-blued hands. The range also includes the entry-level, time-only Felix as well as the single-button Chrono-Felix. Both measure only 38.5mm in diameter, and are also the amongst the thinnest watches made by Habring2. And the more complicated models are the Doppel Felix split-seconds chronograph with its “bullhead” pusher layout, and the inventive COS Felix. Short for “crown operated system”, the COS chronograph is activated entirely via the crown, which is turned either forwards o...

Fratello On Air: Navigating The Japanese Watch Market Fratello
Yesterday

Fratello On Air: Navigating The Japanese Watch Market

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we return after more travel and a birthday celebration to discuss the Japanese watch market. While the topic may sound quizzical, the Land of the Rising Sun presents a unique set of challenges and opportunities. We talk about this and more! This podcast player […] Visit Fratello On Air: Navigating The Japanese Watch Market to read the full article.

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...

Tissot’s Boldest PRX Yet: The Damian Lillard Skeleton Transforms Into A Pocket Watch Fratello
Tissot s Boldest PRX Yet Oct 21, 2026

Tissot’s Boldest PRX Yet: The Damian Lillard Skeleton Transforms Into A Pocket Watch

Today, Tissot and NBA star Damian Lillard introduce a new PRX Skeleton. The watch emerges from close collaboration with the player known as “Dame Time” and draws from the journey that shaped him. Decisive moments come through preparation long before they arrive. That mindset now takes form in a dedicated PRX. Therefore, the piece reflects […] Visit Tissot’s Boldest PRX Yet: The Damian Lillard Skeleton Transforms Into A Pocket Watch to read the full article.

First Look - The Goddess Returns to Villeret on the Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition Monochrome
Montblanc branding Oct 21, 2026

First Look - The Goddess Returns to Villeret on the Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition

The Minerva Exo Tourbillon Skeleton marks the manufacture’s transition to a standalone brand structure, dropping the previous dual Montblanc branding to focus entirely on its own heritage. Limited to just 18 pieces in rose gold, the watch reveals incredible details of the hand-finished, skeletonised calibre M18.69, combined with classical design elements like the agate cameo […]

Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance Monochrome
Oct 20, 2026

Hands-on - The Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds, Three Ways to Wear Vintage Elegance

Founded in 1934 and revived by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick in 2014 (who is also behind the return of Airain and its Type 20/21 pilot’s chronographs), Lebois & Co has gradually built its contemporary collection with watches inspired by the brand’s historical catalogue. Following the Heritage Chronograph, the Heritage Small Seconds takes a simpler […]

The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro Oct 19, 2026

The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary

A few months ago, we asked our team members to write about the best watch they’ve ever owned. Thomas wrote a love story about his Rolex Explorer II 16570, Jorg was (and still is) talking about the Tudor Black Bay Pro, and Lex wrote that his JLC Geophysic Universal Time beats all his other watches. […] Visit The Best Watch I’ve Ever Owned: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 50th Anniversary to read the full article.

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026 Hodinkee
Oct 12, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At Bangkok Watch Week 2026

Last month, I spent an incredible week in Thailand for Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Over a week of talks, panel discussions, and brand presentations (some moderated by yours truly) organized by the team at Siam Piwat, there was no better way to discover a whole new side of watch collecting. Spending more time in Southeast Asia has always been at the top of my list, because I think the region brings together some of the most diverse and interesting tastes in watch collecting. Most special of all is finally meeting so many watch nerds that I've connected and chatted with online for years, along with making many new friends. It's these moments that remind you how small this little world is, and how it's the people and not necessarily the watches that make this space so interesting. Image courtesy Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week. Bangkok Watch Week wrapped up its weeklong watch fest with one big hurrah—a sort of after-party. This "Asia-Pacific Get Together" was what I had been looking forward to the whole time—just a big ol' gathering of watch collectors from all over Asia, descending upon an open bar and having a fun time. But while I spent a lot of time chatting with so many folks, I was still on the clock, after all, and got to do some fun watch spotting with my camera during the whole thing. So I hope you enjoy seeing so many fun—and sometimes insane—watches. Happy scrolling through the sea of wristshots. And for those who I got to meet and connect with at Bang...

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026 Hodinkee
Baltic Sep 30, 2026

Photo Report: Toronto Timepiece Show 2026

Walking through the halls of the Meridian Arts Center in Toronto, through the 90-ish brands assembled for the event by Jason Hutton and his team, it's hard to believe the Toronto Timepiece Show is only in its third edition. The show feels far more established than you'd expect from what is still a relatively nascent endeavor. It's an impressive feat, made all the more impressive by the explosion of Hutton's Timepiece Shows across Canada. Besides Toronto, this year's Timepiece Show made stops in Vancouver and — for the first time — Montréal. But Toronto is the original, and so I'm glad to have finally made it up to the Great White North to see what it's all about. This is what these shows are all about — finding moments to connect with other enthusiasts. Although, checking out the watches — like the latest offerings from Baltic — is important too. If you're not familiar with the concept, the Toronto Timepiece Show is one of several open-to-the-public watch fairs that have become core gathering points for enthusiasts around the world in recent years. Having now seen the Toronto Timepiece Show in person, I'm also convinced it's not one to miss. So, without further interruption, below is a look at just some of the watches, people, and moments I saw at 2026's edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show (and if you want to check out some of last year's show, you can see James's coverage here) Tudor Black Bay 54 The iconic Seiko Alpinist. Early Seamaster Professional 300M wi...

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988 Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Unveils Sep 28, 2026

First Look - Louis Vuitton Unveils the Monterey in Green or Black Ceramic, Tribute to the LV II of 1988

Contrary to popular belief, Louis Vuitton’s first watch was not the 2002 Tambour but the earlier Montre LV I and LV II, launched in 1988. Designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti and produced in collaboration with IWC, these quartz-powered pieces reflected the brand’s travel-oriented identity. With their lug-free, pebble-shaped cases and crowns at 12 o’clock, […]

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Ranchero, A Cartier Santos Ghost, An Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, And A ZRC Grands Fronds Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Overseas remains available Sep 25, 2026

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Ranchero, A Cartier Santos Ghost, An Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar, And A ZRC Grands Fronds

Next week is October. October. Even for someone who literally has an ongoing documentation of each week through this column, that is mind-blowing. I hope whatever baseball team you're stoked about is doing well—my Twins fell off so long ago that I haven't even been paying attention—and I also hope autumn's making a decent entrance for you wherever you are. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Omega Suverän sold for 9,600 DKK, the Universal Genève Cabriolet for 2,400 CHF, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas remains available, and the Zenith chrono for €3,000. Strays Photo courtesy of Huntington Company. Hermès watches hardly go unnoticed, but I love that some of their models still fly a good bit under the radar. The Cape Cod, for instance, is fantastic—interesting and elegant without being too weird. This one, the Grandes Heures, features an hour wheel that allows the hour hand to travel differently based on its dial position, meaning it covers more distance from 9-10 than from 10-11, and while that's not any foundation-shaking complication or horological advancement, it is, inarguably, very cool.  While the breadth of variations makes it hard to argue for any Datejust being superior, I'd argue the Rolex Boiler Gauge models deserve consideration in the top tier, and this one looks fantastic. I somehow went from never having seen the Omega Seamaster ref 196.0054 to spending an embarrassing amount of time looking into it, which is my very public plea for help and for ...

Richard Mille partners with GB1, the British America’s Cup Challenger ahead of 2027 race Time+Tide
Richard Mille partners Sep 25, 2026

Richard Mille partners with GB1, the British America’s Cup Challenger ahead of 2027 race

This week, Richard Mille revealed a new partnership with GB1, the British America’s Cup Challenger, as the team’s Official Timekeeping Partner for the 38th America’s Cup. In Time+Tide news, FounderFest was a resounding success, and in the wake of our (now closed) 24-hour global online sales window, we have some interesting stats worth sharing. Let’s … Continued