Time+Tide
Tudor releases a Black Bay Chrono in 39mm
Tudor has brought us its first Black Bay Chrono in 39mm in its modern era, and they've given it a striking livery.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Monochrome
Introducing - The New, More Compact Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Bumblebee
An important and yet slightly different member of the wide Black Bay family of dive watches, the Black Bay Chrono was released in 2017, not without some comments from the crowd. Indeed, the watch featured diving elements, the signature Snowflake hands, solid water-resistance, but also racing cues such as a tachymeter scale. Since its launch, […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Casio MTP-VT06 Is an Affordable Watch Chasing Nomos Vibes
The Casio MTP-VT06 is an affordable watch with Bauhaus styling and a Nomos-like dial, now adding sub-dials at an expected $50 to $60 price.
Monochrome
Just Because - The Well-Timed Release of the Ochs und Junior Pendant Watches
Timing, as they say, is everything. Hot on the heels of Audemars Piguet and Swatch’s Royal Pop pocket watch, the most hyped release of the century, teased with cryptic ads, countdowns and endless speculation, Ochs und Junior arrives with a timely proposal of a pendant/pocket watch. Not everybody has the nerve to follow a headline-grabbing […]
Fratello
Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT
The fun thing about my hands-on experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey is that I went into it rather blindly. While that is nothing special in and of itself, when two Fratello team members actually own an Arken Alterum, it is slightly more remarkable. Obviously, I knew about the brand and the watch […] Visit Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph
Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Neumann Automatic brings classic styling with modern touches at a price point that is hard to beat
Neumann’s second collection introduces six textured dial options with a blend of vintage proportions and contemporary design.
Monochrome
First Look - Rado Drops a Trio of Summer-Toned DiaStar Original Skeleton
Rado continues to ride the renewed popularity of its DiaStar Original collection and its skeleton version, and launches three colourful limited editions that add a fresh seasonal character to one of the brand’s most recognisable designs. Following the skeletonised DiaStar models introduced in recent years, including the original steel version and the striking gold-coloured edition […]
Fratello
The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme
One of the Rolex novelties at Watches and Wonders 2026 was the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 with a green ombré lacquer dial (ref. 126334). Essentially, it is a new dial variant for the largest Datejusts in The Crown’s collection. However, it’s not just a new color but also part of a series of watches marking […] Visit The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Yacht-Master II
Rolex commands a lot of attention during Watches & Wonders, and this year much of the focus was on the enamel-dialled Daytona — a high-tech, high-priced, off-catalogue variant of one of the hottest watches in the industry. But the brand’s other chronograph, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, also got a much-needed — but still unexpected — makeover, transforming it from an ugly duckling into a compelling chronograph for the contrarian collector. Initial thoughts Despite the pre-event teaser posted to social media, the launch of an updated Yacht-Master II still managed to feel like a surprise. The original Yacht-Master II debuted in the pre-financial crisis exuberance of 2007 and exemplified the tastes of the era, being something of the Royal Oak Offshore of the Rolex line-up. It was big and brash but offered enough technical substance to stay intellectually relevant, even as the model lost enthusiasm in collector circles before its discontinuation in 2024. The updated Yacht-Master II improves on the original in every way, dialing back the ostentation and doubling down on the technical merit. The new Yacht-Master II is available in stainless steel or full 18k yellow gold, and offers a decent value proposition in either configuration given the technical sophistication of the calibre and the high quality of make. As the standard-bearer of the luxury watch industry, Rolex could charge more than it does and the brand’s restraint is notable. The full-gold ref. 1266...
SJX Watches
A Petite, Powerful Movement Inside Blancpain’s Marilyn Monroe Watch
A hundred years after Marilyn Monroe’s birth, Blancpain is marking the occasion with the Ladybird Tribute Marilyn, seven watches modelled on a vintage Blancpain wristwatch once owned by Monroe herself. Rectangular in form and set with diamonds, the Ladybird Tribute is typical of 1940s style, but the movement inside is surprising. The cal. 510 inside is a tiny movement by modern standards, but is nonetheless high-spec. The calibre manages a respectable 50-hour power reserve and sophisticated, skeletonised construction, underlining the high quality mechanics typical of Blancpain. Initial thoughts We don’t normally feature such watches but the cal. 510 is worth a pointing out, even if it’s not a brand-new movement. Blancpain’s technical know-how was on full display with last year’s outsized Grande Double Sonnerie, but the cal. 510 proves the brand can still do a lot in a very small space. Most tiny ladies’ watches contain pedestrian movements, so the cal. 510 stands out. To start with, it’s a form movement conceived to fit the case. And while small, the movement incorporates a variety of notable features, including a free-sprung balance, longish power reserve, and appealing finishing. Notably, it is much more sophisticated than newer form movements from competing brands (with more expensive watches). The watch itself is retro, which is unsurprising given it’s a remake of Monroe’s original. While it might seem a little old fashioned, this will do well as a co...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Gives Its Artelier Dress Watch a First In-House Movement for 2026
Oris has a habit of saving its strangest ideas for one watch a year. The Hölstein Edition started in 2020 as an annual limited release tied to the brand's June 1 birthday, and it has always leaned into playful reinterpretation. This year the company turned to the Artelier, the dress collection it relaunched a few months ago with mid-century-inspired dials. The result is the Hölstein Edition 2026, a 250-piece run with a few changes that go deeper than the finish.
Worn & Wound
Introducing the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co.
The emergence of Naoya Hida as a major player in the independent space has been one of the more exciting developments in watches over the last few years. Whether Hida’s watches are to your taste or not (or your budget) there’s no denying that the brand presents a crystal clear point of view and takes no shortcuts to execute on it. In an environment with, frankly, a lot of half baked ideas, there’s something satisfying about a brand that knows exactly what it is. So it’s incredibly interesting that right on the heels of their recent 2026 launches, the brand has announced a new collaboration with Zenith on their G.F.J. platform. This is honestly one of those world-colliding moments for me and I’m pretty excited about not only the watch but what this might signal for both Zenith and Naoya Hida moving forward. The G.F.J. feels like the right line for a brand like Naoya Hida to work within – it’s already cited as a watch that trades a little on the current trend toward artisanal dials (in exotic stones, specifically) that have become favorites among many high end indies. And there’s an undeniable synergy between the classic mid century design codes of the G.F.J. case and Naoya Hida’s aesthetic sensibility. The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is the first in what Zenith is referring to as their new “Double Signed” program, which will, according to the brand, invite selected partners to reinterpret iconic references. The naming con...
Deployant
New: Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Solarmetre
Frederique Constant releases a solar powered collection based on the FC-120 for the Classics Moneta collection, and is a line within called the Solarmetre.
Monochrome
Hands-on - The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite, a Celestial Dial for the 75th Anniversary
Orient Star is not usually the first name that comes to mind when looking for meteorite-dial watches. The Japanese brand has instead built a reputation around solid mechanics, attractive finishing, and sensible pricing for its watches. That is precisely why the new M34 F8 Date Meteorite caught our attention when it was announced earlier this […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.
Zenith’s caliber 135 continues its revival within the brand’s modern lineup with a new version. After the restored vintage-powered editions from 2022 and the following G.F.J. releases in 2025 and 2026, the brand now adds a special, limited collaboration with Naoya Hida to the collection. This time, the focus shifts toward Japanese independent watchmaking. The […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co. to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces the Carillon Tourbillon to mark three decades of the brand, and to celebrate how it all began — by restoring antiques. Inspired by an early 19th-century watch founder Michel Parmigiani brought back to life decades ago, the watch repeats the minutes on four serpentine gongs with exposed repeater work, and a tourbillon, and somehow manages to fit 12 days of power reserve into a case that’s just 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm thick. Initial thoughts My first thought on seeing the movement was that it looked like something from the early 19th century, with exposed repeater work and serpentine gongs. That was, of course, the intent. In 1980, Michel Parmigiani became a steward of Maurice Yves Sandoz’s collection of antique watches and automata. There he worked on a wandering hours quarter repeater signed Perrin Frères, which inspired the present watch. The Perrin Frères repeater that inspired the Carillon Tourbillon. Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Modern collectors have relatively little interest in this genre, and a nearly identical watch — this time signed Vaucher Frères, the firm after which the modern Vaucher company is named — sold for only CHF21,000 at Christie’s two years ago. But the watch’s esoteric design and unique story made it ripe for revival. But of course it’s not an exact replica. This modern homage is a keyless winding lever watch, while the inspiration was key wind with a cylinder escapement. As a pleasant surp...
Monochrome
First Look - The Double-Signed Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida & Co.
When Zenith, celebrating its 160th Anniversary, revived the Calibre 135 in 2025 with the launch of the G.F.J. collection, the manufacture brought back one of the most important precision movements, a calibre that dominated observatory chronometry competitions throughout the 1950s and remains the most awarded movement of its kind. Taking the story in an unexpected […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co
What We Know Today, Zenith introduces a new "Double Signed" program for its Calibre 135-powered G.F.J. collection, and its first entry in this series is a collaboration with a Japanese independent that might not require all that much introduction around these parts—Naoya Hida. The evolution of the G.F.J. line has not taken all that long, with its origins starting in 2022 with the Zenith Caliber 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, where ten Calibre 135 movements from the 50s were restored by Kari Voutilainen and introduced in watches done as a triple collaboration between Zenith, Voutilainen, and auction house Phillips. Just three years later, the Calibre 135 was revived as a modern caliber for a line called the G.F.J. (after Zenith's founder Georges Favre Jacot). In just a little over a year, we've seen three small runs of this watch introduced in different stone-dial and metal combinations—platinum with a lapis lazuli dial, tantalum with an onyx dial, and an upcoming yellow-gold GFJ with a bloodstone dial. In the meantime, this new Double Signed concept with Naoya Hida takes the G.F.J. in a very different visual direction. The hefty 39.15mm platinum case, with a thickness of 10.5mm and a compact lug-to-lug of 45.75mm, remains the same as other G.F.J. models. But that dial is unabashedly Naoya Hida, constructed out of solid silver with the distinctive hand engraving coming from the hand of master engraver Keisuke Kano, the man responsible for the hand engraving across al...
Time+Tide
Zenith collaborates with Naoya Hida to create a co-signed interpretation of the G.F.J.
We are seeing a rare Switzerland and Japan team-up, with Zenith unveiling a collaboration with another enthusiast favourite: Naoya Hida & Co.
SJX Watches
Insight: the Compliant Mechanism Inside the Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G
The standout piece from Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 was certainly the Celestial Sunrise and Sunset Ref. 6105G-001. The astronomy-oriented watch was a decade in the making and compared to its more conservative predecessor, the ref. 6102, the new model benefits from a complete makeover, both aesthetically and mechanically. Hidden within the 47 mm white gold case is an unusual component that didn’t get the attention it deserved at launch: a butterfly-shaped compliant cam-and-rack mechanism. The system is used for the sunrise/sunset indicators and proves Patek Philippe’s almost savant-like mastery of compliant micro-mechanics. The Celestial ref. 6105 is pictured showing a sunrise of around 8 AM, and a sunset time of about 7 PM. Note the date ring pulls double duty as the sunrise/sunset scale. Fixing something that may be broken Although still quite rare compared to other complications, there are more sunrise/sunset watches on the market than seemingly ever before. They mostly follow the same basic construction: a cam that works with a follower. As the year progresses, the cam slowly turns, displacing the follower. In pairs, such systems are used to show both the sunrise and sunset times, which synchronously vary throughout the year. So why fix something that doesn’t appear to be broken? Or more specifically, why use an elaborate compliant system when a basic cam and follower is a fixture in classical watchmaking? European patent EP3740821B1 granted to ...
Hodinkee
Business News: Secondary Market Prices Climb, James Marks Jumps To Sotheby’s, Christie’s Grabs Cartier Watch Record
Summer shows no signs of slowing down - it's been a busy few weeks in the watch industry. Secondary market prices have posted gains for three consecutive quarters, the first sustained climb since 2022, suggesting the market may finally be stabilizing after the post-pandemic boom and correction. In the auction world, a veteran executive has made a high-profile move from Phillips to Sotheby's, and Christie's has just claimed the record for the most expensive Cartier wristwatch ever sold - a title that changed hands twice in the span of a few weeks. Here's a round-up of some of the latest business stories from around the industry. Secondary Market Watch Prices On A Winning Streak After years of declines, prices on the secondary watch market are stabilizing and have posted gains of more than 1% for three consecutive quarters, according to an analyst report from Morgan Stanley and WatchCharts. An index of pre-owned watch prices compiled by WatchCharts rose 1.9% in the first three months of the year from the previous quarter, led by gains from a wide swath of brands including Longines, Patek Philippe, and Zenith, the data shows. It's the first time since 2022 that prices have climbed significantly for an extended period. The results suggest a broad recovery in secondary market values, driven by rising primary market prices, tariffs on watches entering the U.S., and increased confidence and interest in the pre-owned premium watch market. The gains were broad-based, with 25 of...
Worn & Wound
As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology
In the horological sphere, we associate the 1970s with the quartz crisis, but there was a more significant threat facing the world at large: an energy crisis. Oil consumption was reaching an all-time high with widespread international travel and car ownership becoming more prevalent and mainstream. Simultaneously, domestic oil production was dwindling in many countries, increasing pressure on imports. The situation reached a crisis when OPEC (the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries) imposed an oil embargo in 1973. So, getting back to watches – you’re probably wondering, what’s the connection? Like the United States, Japan was one of the countries impacted by this energy crisis. In response, Citizen Watch Company established an internal initiative to work toward developing a more sustainable and eco-friendly power source for its timepieces. In short order, the brand looked toward solar cell technology and had developed its own light-powered prototype by 1974. Two years later in 1976, we saw the world’s first light-powered analog watch, the Crystron Solar Cell. This technology would later come to be called Eco-Drive and celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2026. You’ve probably already read about the flagship anniversary Eco-Drive model covered by our own Zach Kazan at its launch earlier this year, but this spring, in peak cherry blossom season, Citizen opened the doors of its manufacture for the first time in years to pull back the curtain on just how the ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Aria Manufacture Chronometer From Formex
What We Know The last time I covered something from Formex was over a year ago, when the brand released a highly finished, full-ceramic sports watch, complete with a ceramic bracelet and even a ceramic micro-adjust clasp, at an unrivaled price point. Today, the brand continues its upmarket trend with a brand-new watch design called the Aria. The Aria takes the form of a broad, integrated-bracelet design in full grade 5 titanium. The 40mm case feels broader than normal, thanks to an impressively thin case height of 6.9mm, even though the lug-to-lug is still quite reasonable at 45.45mm. While the silhouette gives a smooth look, there's quite a bit of contrasting finishing going on here, with brushing of the titanium case and bracelet links done entirely by hand. Though the styling certainly leans towards its identity as a bold sports watch, there's a lot of subtlety in the design, for example, with the individual bracelet links being slightly curved or the extra dimensionality of the layer of titanium peeking out from each link's milled-out spaces. The clasp includes Formex's proprietary micro-adjust system, which provides extra space on both sides of the bracelet by pulling or pushing each side. There are three dials for the Aria: "Selva Green," "Ardesia Grey," and "Denso Blue." All three have a certain muted look to the hue, matching the slightly darker nature of titanium. Dimensionality is achieved through contrasting indices in rose-gold coloring, set on applied raised p...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Squale 2001 Marina Militare, Developed for the Italian Navy, Available for the Public
When it comes to dive watches, some brands might be sort of a niche for a wide audience, but still carry a great legacy for the diving community. So is Squale, a brand that celebrated its 65th anniversary in 2024 and was created by Charles Von Büren, a renowned case maker. Since then, several models […]
Time+Tide
The military-issued Squale 2001 Marina Militare finally goes civilian
Squale's 2001 Marina Militare hangs up its military uniform and goes civilian, delivering weapons-grade functionality to the general public
Hodinkee
Introducing: Oris Celebrates Its Birthday With The 2026 Hölstein Edition
What We Know Every year on June 1, Oris celebrates the founding of its brand by releasing watches named after its hometown. This time, they're doing so with 250 numbered pieces based on the brand's new Artelier watch. The new version features small seconds, a 120-hour power reserve, the Caliber 401 movement, and an interesting retro-futuristic style. The new Oris Hölstein Edition 2026 has a stainless steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.1mm, a 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 30m water resistance. The dial is light grey with a subtle fumé effect from its shape, with a brighter subsidiary seconds dial in a mirror finish and a small red seconds hand. That silver, domed dial and claw-style hour markers make the watch feel a bit like a throwback to the late 1960s, but with modern specifications. The hour and minute hands have Super-LumiNova. As a bonus, the movement (while not COSC-certified) has an accuracy of 3/+5 seconds per day and is highly anti-magnetic. It's also automatic winding. The caseback uses a special laser treatment that engraves the Oris Bear, features the words "Hölstein Edition 2026," and produces a mirror-like, iridescent rainbow finish. To steal the description from one of the greatest haircuts known to man, it's business in the front and party in the back. The watch retails for CHF 3,800. What We Think Oris has been doing these limited editions, as far as I can tell, since 2020, and each one has been anything but traditional. Obviously, the Oris bear often plays a ...
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-05 S.T. Dupont Edicióne Limitada
Bell & Ross expands their cigar-inspired limited editions, their fourth with S.T. Dupont, the famed French maison for lighters and smoking accessories.
Worn & Wound
Kollokium Introduces the Projekt 02 Variant C
In the span of just a few short years, Kollokium has gone from a nearly secret insider side project with a hard to discern future to a fully fledged brand. When the Projekt 01 first came on the scene, it was a bit of a mystery to most what the founders (Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) had planned, or even if they had planned anything at all. There was a one-off quality to that initial drop that seemed to communicate it could all be abandoned at any moment. Honestly, the watch industry probably needs a little more of that energy – watches that exist outside of a business plan and represent an artistic vision more than a marketing ploy. But credit to Kollokium for being smart about the way they’ve managed expectations and continue to move the ball forward across several subsequent releases since the Projekt 01. In addition to new colorways for that original design, they’ve introduced an entirely watch (not so creatively called the Projekt 02) that builds on the design language introduced in the first piece and deepens the complexity pretty significantly. They’ve just announced the latest Projekt 02, Variant C, and it’s the latest chance for collectors to get in on one of the most interesting new designs in indie watchmaking. As a refresher, the Projekt 02 is defined by a dial built on a series of stacked plates (over 60 of them) in different shapes and sizes that when fully assembled resemble a three dimensional topographical map. The terrain of t...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Oris Hölstein Edition 2026, an Artelier with Calibre 401
The Hölstein Editions are Oris’ annual limited-edition watches, released each June 1st to celebrate the brand’s birthday and honour its roots in Hölstein, Switzerland. Introduced in the early 2000s, the more elegant Artelier family was fully redesigned this year to become a more contemporary and versatile lineup. Marking its 122nd birthday, Oris releases the Hölstein Edition 2026, […]