Deployant
New: Panerai Radiomir Pam02088
The Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni PAM02088 is a limited edition released for Lunar New Year 2026. Here are our impressions of this novelty.
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Fratello
Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar
The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar has just been uncorked, and it’s as spirited as its name suggests. This limited-edition monopusher chronograph merges Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek British design with William Massena’s connoisseur’s eye. The resulting watch celebrates excess. The dial blends the soft glow of champagne with the dark sheen of […] Visit Introducing: The Studio Underd0g × Massena Lab 03Series Champagne & Caviar to read the full article.
Monochrome
In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?
At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Best EDC Watches
What, exactly, is an EDC watch? That was the question I asked myself when I was charged with this mission. If you’re unfamiliar, EDC is an initialism for "Every Day Carry." It’s become something of its own industry, with makers of everything from keychains, pocket knives, tools, pens, wallets, and even items like smartphone cases getting in on the action. And yeah, there are those that take EDC to the next level, ticking off an internal checklist that reads more like a well-stocked survival kit. But I’m going to venture to say that the majority of us don’t require a folding camp axe, waterproof matches, a 1,000-lumen flashlight, and a water filtration kit while navigating midtown Manhattan. There’s no defining characteristic of EDC, other than being an item that you have on your person most days, so a watch definitely qualifies. I like to keep my "carry" on the minimalist side, consisting of my keys on a small carabiner, a well-worn leather wallet, a beat-up iPhone 11 in a Pelican case, and a small pocket knife (most often a Benchmade Mini Griptilian, The James Brand’s Redstone, or a Gerber LST I’ve owned forever that virtually disappears into the pocket). And, of course, a watch. I never leave the house without one, and today, I’m calling out, in ascending price order, several that fit my own personal criteria for an EDC timepiece. I don’t wear a suit on a daily basis, so a dress watch of any stripe is basically a non-starter. To me, a daily driver i...
Worn & Wound
Awake’s Son Mai Collection Gets Three Intricate New Dials
One of the more interesting stories in the micro/independent watch scene that has matured over the last few years is Awake, a French brand that has done a lot of work to reshape their branding and presentation with their most recent releases. When we first started covering Awake, they traded in high concept ideas – watches tied to the Metaverse, and NASA, for instance. They were weird, but I always appreciated that they seemed to have a real perspective and weren’t going after the traditional watch enthusiast crowd. They always seemed happy to chart a new course. They’ve pivoted more recently, with their newer watches laser focused on traditional craft techniques, and in developing a signature design language. I was a pretty big fan of their first batch of Son Mai watches, with beautiful lacquered dials. Their latest release, the Son Mai “Fragments” collection, takes these lacquer dials to a logical next step, upping the complexity and depth along the way. The Fragments collection consists of three watches in the standard Son Mai case with gorgeous dials accented with mother of pearl. I know what you’re thinking: not another mother of pearl dial. While I totally understand the fatigue, these watches are worth taking a look at to acknowledge the novelty of the mother of pearl execution. Against a black lacquer base, each watch in the Fragments line consists of very small pieces of mother of pearl placed intricately on the dial surface to create a complex mos...
Monochrome
First Look – New Brand Atelier Nossedh and its Debut Vintage-Inspired Chronograph, the AN.01 Series
Atelier Nossedh (passing time in the Sámi language of the Northerners) is a new microbrand created by a Swedish designer, Alexander Gimell, who sought to build the watch he couldn’t find: small, classically proportioned, inspired by some glorious vintage chronographs and made with the kind of restraint that earns wrist time. The debut piece, the […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Two-Tone Watches - Featuring Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Sinn, And More…
Another Friday, another list! For this week, we prolong our series of lists focused on materials used for watch cases and bracelets. Whereas we covered modern ones over the past three weeks, today’s list focuses on a classic combination of materials. However, we deliberately chose to create a list of two-tone watches rather than just […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Two-Tone Watches - Featuring Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Sinn, And More… to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890
In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The New Seiko Prospex “Kame” Australasian Edition
Launched at the Seiko x Watch Advice event in October, the new Seiko Prospex Sea “Kame” Australasian Edition was a hit, and now it’s time for an Owner’s Perspective Review! What We Love An Australasian edition with design cues from North Queensland – the colours are great! The ease of wearing, even for a “larger” watch Value for money at under A$1,000 What We Don’t The pin buckle has a habbit of sticking out a little and catching on my pocket The bracelet could be more refined for a divers watch The steel strap minder looks good, but it’s not as functional as a rubber one would be Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When it comes to Seiko, there are many iconic models in the catalogue, but few hold as much love arguably as the Prospex, and even more so, the “Turtle” with its turtle-shaped case, dive bezel and offset crown at 4 o’clock. Models like the Captain Willard, named after Martin Sheen’s character in the cinema classic “Apocalypse Now” are sought after and collectable. Just walk down a popular beach, and the likelihood is you’ll see several Seiko Turtles strapped to wrists. I was on the Gold Coast a few weeks ago, with the new “Kame” strapped to my wrist, and I saw no less than about 5 other Seiko Prospex Turtles on other wrists. Although none were quite as good-looking (in my opinion) as the new Australasian limited edition “Kame”. One reason I bought it at our e...
Fratello
Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors
The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments collection brings together the ancient Japanese art of Raden (inlaying of shell), traditional Vietnamese lacquer, and Swiss watchmaking. The dials comprise hand-laid mother-of-pearl fragments sealed beneath layers of natural lacquer. Offered in three limited editions (Green, Blue, and Pink), these watches showcase Awake’s mission to make metiers d’art available in […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors to read the full article.
SJX Watches
It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist
Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering companion, the Prospex Alpinist, enters its fourth decade with its fourth major update. The 2025 edition gains an a longer power reserve, a scratch-resistant Diashield case coating, and - most notably - the return of vintage styling cues from the first generation, including the italic “Alpinist” signature on the dial. The new generation (refs. SPB503, SPB505, SPB507) debuts in variants including the signature forest green, along with a limited edition of the outgoing generation exclusively for Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei in an icy white (ref. SPB532). Though it commands a slightly higher price than the outgoing model, the enhancements make it a more capable and durable field watch, keeping the value proposition firmly intact. Initial thoughts This year the iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turns 30, though it seems to have aged gracefully, with the latest generation being the best since its original debut. Though the Prospex “X” emblem and “three days” script depart from the model’s earlier design, the return of the “Alpinist” script is a welcome touch. Personally, I’ve always favoured its bigger brother, the Landmaster, which has higher specs for a higher price. But for most aspiring mountaineers, the much more accessible and conventionally attractive Alpinist is a better option. Since early references of the Alpinist are incredibly difficult to find – at least by Seiko standards – the new ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel
In a past story, we explained how multiple mainspring barrels can be paired in parallel or in series, for either lengthening a movement’s power reserve or increasing the torque discharged into the going train. In this article we expand on this topic to analyse the inside of the barrel by exploring how mainspring size balancing influences the torque output and power reserve. Enthusiasts tend to throw around the loosely-defined term “mainspring packing” - especially when criticising a movement’s unsatisfying power reserve. This term refers to how a watchmaker can get a higher power reserve by balancing a spring’s dimensions and the space it occupies inside a barrel. While this sounds simple, the reality is more complicated. Skeletonised barrel showing the tight coiled mainspring inside the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Concept. In order to set the record straight, it’s necessary to analyse the topic thoroughly. This requires getting a bit technical, but an interpretation is included for those less interested in the underlying maths. This theory-heavy deep-dive tries to unravel the concept of mainspring packing and explores why optimisation is not a very straightforward business. The core elements This section covers the basics of mainspring and barrel geometry and establishes their relation with power reserve and torque. In order to see how specific dimensions affect both torque and power reserve, we will resort to some known functions and a little geometric...
Worn & Wound
Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V
You have to hand it to Christopher Ward; they’ve been on a hell of a run. What was once a bit of an ‘also-ran’ brand with a stable of somewhat generic dive and dress watches has become a near-peerless independent powerhouse, turning out hit after hit and creating converts everywhere they (or at least their impressively enthusiastic team) go. Their latest offering, the C1 Jump Hour Mk V - released today - revives a complication with which the brand has a long history, and is sure to bring yet more converts to the fold. Now, despite a sense of increased affection for the English brand in the last few years and its general rise in popularity, I’ve not spent much time writing about Christopher Ward. I’ve also, outside of quick hits at Windup fairs and in passing moments, spent shockingly little hands-on time with the brand’s recent offerings. So when I was offered the chance to spend a few days with their latest release, I leapt at the opportunity, curious to see if I’d be pulled into the ranks of the converted, as so many of my colleagues at Worn & Wound have been. I’ve now spent much of the last week with the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V on my wrist, and I have to admit, I’m somewhat smitten. The Christopher Ward JJ01 Jump hour watches have been having a bit of a moment in the sun recently, but they’re nothing new to Christopher Ward. The brand introduced its first jump hour watch all the way back in 2011. The brand’s foray into the jump hour ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Awake Combines Japanese Inspiration And Vietnamese Craftsmanship In The Sơn Mài Fragments Collection
A trio of stunning dials mark a strong release from the young French brand.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Studio Underd0g And Massena LAB Team Up For A Champagne And Caviar Chronograph
Outside of France, it's just sparkling chronograph.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96
If we had to name the one model that defined the concept of a dress watch, it would undoubtedly be the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. This watch, when launched in the early 1930s, was rather revolutionary and has ever since been the blueprint for anything dress watch. Watch enthusiasts have long recognised its beauty and […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions
Awake has built a clear identity around thoughtful materials and craft, moving from early eco-focused projects to last year’s Son Mai lineup, watches that brought traditional Hanoi lacquer work and silver-leaf dials into a permanent, Swiss-powered collection. The Fragments series is the next chapter: three limited editions that fuse Vietnamese Son Mai lacquer with mother-of-pearl […]
Monochrome
Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date
Hanhart’s roots run deep in the history of mechanical chronographs. Founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest, Hanhart became a mid-20th-century reference for timing instruments. Its stopwatches and pilot chronographs set benchmarks for robustness, legibility, and ergonomics, a legacy carried forward by today’s collections, most notably, the 417 ES. First developed for the German armed […]
SJX Watches
Tissot Forges Ahead with the PRX 38 mm in Damascus Steel
In just four short years the Tissot PRX has become a runaway success, spawning variants in almost every imaginable size and colour, but the new PRX 38 mm in Damascus steel stands apart. The patterned case and dial give it a tactile, almost artisanal quality rarely seen at this price point, with randomised striations that make each watch unique. Priced at a reasonable premium compared to the standard model, the Damascus steel case and dial of the new PRX are the result of forging and folding multiple steel alloys, which are then etched with acid to reveal a distinctive texture. Initial thoughts The PRX has proven to be widely successful for Tissot, and is now available in countless sizes, colours, and materials. Many are forgettable, but a few stand out. The Damascus steel variant is among the latter. The new PRX in Damascus Steel is one of the best yet, especially in the nearly perfect 38 mm size that will fit well on just about every wrist, big or small. The patterned grey texture found on the case and dial is immediately appealing, and while a full Damascus steel bracelet would have been even better, the leather strap helps keep costs in check and avoids the trap of looking too busy. Like other PRX models, the Damascus steel edition features the Swatch Group’s signature Powermatic 80 movement, which offers a convenient 80 hour power reserve, which should last through the weekend for all but the most sedentary lifestyles. It’s not much to look at, but that’s alright...
Fratello
Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026
As we continue our quest to find the definitive dress watch of 2025, it’s time for the fourth match of this first round of Fratello Dress Watch Season. Today, Nacho and Ben go head-to-head with two heritage-inspired contenders from Swatch Group brands. It’s the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 versus the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Modern Watches That Could Be Future Classics
The pace of new watch releases has never been faster. Every week seems to bring a fresh wave of models vying for our attention. We’re certainly not complaining, but it does make us curious: which of today’s timepieces might one day become future classics? That’s the question at the heart of today’s episode of Fratello […] Visit Fratello Talks: Modern Watches That Could Be Future Classics to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The French Connection: Trilobe’s Parisian Workshop
Gautier Massonneau didn’t set out to become a watchmaker; he just wanted a nice watch. Nearly a decade later, the thirty-something Frenchman finds himself on the verge of re-establishing industrial watchmaking in the French capital with Trilobe. His partner in this evolution, Volcy Bloch, has helped steer Trilobe from design-led start-up to a vertically integrated enterprise capable of producing its own movements and, increasingly, of charting its own future. Having surrounded himself with an experienced team of watchmakers and engineers in the city’s upscale 9ᵗʰ arrondissement, Mr Massonneau has built something quietly radical: a young brand that began as an idea sketched in a Paris apartment that is now in transition to becoming a full-fledged manufacture. Initial thoughts It’s difficult to discuss the rebirth of French watchmaking without acknowledging the turbulence of the past half-century. France was once a powerhouse of horological innovation, home to Breguet, Lépine, and the great marine chronometer makers of the 18th and 19th centuries, but the industrial base began to erode after the Industrial Revolution and never truly recovered. By the late-twentieth century, the last national movement manufacturers had either collapsed or been acquired, their ambitions thwarted by globalisation and Switzerland’s ascendance. Lip, for example, was an early pioneer in electronic timekeeping, but the company’s head start wasn’t enough to insulate them from the rap...
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Recap: Ten Years In and Still Breaking the Mold
Ten years in, and the Windup Watch Fair still feels like a completely new way to interact with the watch industry. For three days in midtown Manhattan, Center415 transformed from a sleek Fifth Avenue venue into the living, breathing heart of watch enthusiast culture. No velvet ropes, no VIP lists-just open doors, multiple halls full of watches, and a community that’s grown from a scrappy gathering of enthusiasts into one of the most important fixtures on the watch industry’s calendar, with over 11,000 attendees. This year marked the fair’s tenth anniversary, and we didn’t celebrate quietly. We expanded the layout to four full halls, bringing together more than 140 brands from 17 countries. We’d like to sincerely thank our Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. Without these strong anchors this experience wouldn’t be free and open to everyone. We’d also like to express our gratitude to each and every brand who participated, bringing some of the most interesting watches and products to the event and continuing to nudge the industry forward! When guests arrived, they entered through the EDC Expo, presented by Topo Designs-an energetic reception area filled with the gear, tools, and accessories that round out modern enthusiast life: knives, pens, packs, and all the small essentials that speak the same design language as the watches themselves. Beyond that, three additional halls awaited, each blending independent and enthusiast b...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Deciphering The Oil-Filled Ressence Type 3 BB2 (Incl. Video)
Dressed in all black, the Type 3 BB2 is the perfect representation of what independent watchmaker Ressence is all about. Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoit Mintiens, watches by Ressence are pretty much incomparable to anything else on the market thanks to the brand’s out-of-the-box thinking, technical innovation and no hands or crowns. In […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3: A Return To How Watchmaking Used To Be Done
A handmade watch that pushes the boundaries of not just modern watchmaking but the history of watchmaking in general.
Hodinkee
Reading Time at HSNY: You Don’t Need a Weatherman
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Deployant
New: MoonSwatch Misson to Earthphase
Here comes the fourth model of the full moon series in the MoonSwatch collection. We find the aesthetics to be quite nice. Released today.
Monochrome
Introducing – Elka Watch Co. Celebrates Black and White with Its Latest S Series Monochrome Editions
At MONOCHROME, we have a soft spot for… well, monochrome. The balance of light and shadow on a dial, the quiet elegance of a perfect photograph… something about removing colour to reveal form, texture, and contrast that we find so immensely appealing. So when we learned that Elka Watch Co., the young Swiss brand known […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton
Most of us associate Hamilton with robust military field watches employed by the US Army during WWII and their successful second lease of life in the Khaki collections. One of the quirkier models to emerge from Hamilton’s American era was the Ventura, the world’s first publicly available battery-powered watch, with a crazy, futuristic, asymmetrical case […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT
The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.