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WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II

Watch Disasters is a new series on Time+Tide that describes, in chilling detail, incidences when owning an expensive watch goes wrong. This is not going to be comfortable reading, so prepare for the pain. Admittedly, this is a bit of a soft start. The ‘prodigal’ in the title gives it away. If you have a … ContinuedThe post WATCH DISASTERS #1 – Ken’s prodigal GMT-Master II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 28, 2019

Longines Introduces the Master Collection Moonphase

Longines’ Master Collection excels at entry-level complications that are affordably priced – last year’s annual calendar is a great buy – and the latest in the range is a moon phase and date. The Master Collection Moonphase is a watch that’s clear in what it wants to to. Aside from the time, it has a pointer date and moon indicators in a sub-dial at six, for a clean and symmetrical dial. The Master Collection Moonphase ref. L2.919.4.78.3 It’s powered by the L899 movement, an automatic based on the ETA A31.L91, which is an upgraded version of the common ETA 2892. The most obvious functional upgrade is the extended 64-hour power reserve, achieved in part by reducing the beat rate of the balance wheel from 4Hz to 3.5Hz. Like many other models in the Master Collection, the new moon phase is offered in two cases sizes – 40mm and 42mm – both in stainless steel. Dial options are silvered barleycorn guilloche, black barleycorn, or sun-ray brushed metallic blue. The smaller, 40mm case is also offered with brilliant-cut diamond hour markers on all dial styles. The Master Collection Moonphase 42mm The ref. L2.909.4.97.0 with diamond markers Key facts Diameter: 40mm or 42mm Material: Stainless steel Water resistance: 30m Movement: L899 Functions: Hours, minutes, second, moon phase and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 64 hours Strap: Leather strap or steel bracelet Price: US$2,350 for all versions, US$2,750 for the 40...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light SJX Watches
Richard Mille Aug 27, 2019

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light

Omega’s latest debut is a surprising one, an incredibly light wristwatch that is also incredibly expensive – traditionally territory held by brands like Richard Mille. Weighing just 55g, or about 10 sheets of A4 printer paper, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light is made almost entirely of titanium, right down to the bridges and plate of the movement. And it retails for US$48,600. Developed in collaboration with Omega ambassador Rory McIlroy, a four-time majors champion and former world number one, the Aqua Terra Ultra Light is ostensibly conceived to be worn by athletes during competitions. A new(ish) alloy The case is 41mm but made from what Omega calls Gamma Titanium, which is actually titanium aluminide (TiAl), a relatively new titanium alloy that’s prized for its hardness and corrosion-resistance, even at high temperatures. That’s why it’s used for the blades of jet engines, amongst other things. Because the watch is meant to be worn by sportsmen, the crown is recessed and telescopic. It sits almost flush with the case when not in use, but a gentle push pops it out for winding and setting. And the dial is also titanium, but fashioned from a more common grade 5 alloy. It’s is finished with the signature horizontal fluting of the Aqua Terra range. The first titanium movement More unusually, the cal. 8928 Ti inside is also made mostly of titanium. The bridges and base plate are made of ceramised titanium, which is titanium coated with ceramic. The movem...

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Aug 17, 2019

Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

Editor’s note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they’re not front of mind, they’re in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on …  The watch industry … ContinuedThe post Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Jun 20, 2019

Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

The first watch I saw at Baselworld 2019 was the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. I saw it at a preview dinner before the fair proper, and honestly, it kind of ruined me for other watches at the fair.  The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic is just so impressive. Not only is it … ContinuedThe post Thin end of the wedge – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional Time+Tide
Omega now rules Jun 20, 2019

Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional

Big news overnight from the house of Omega – they can now claim the lofty (well, the opposite actually) title of deepest diving watch ever. Just how deep are we talking here? How about 10,928 metres? That’s the depth Victor Vescovo took his submersible, Limiting Factor into the Mariana Trench. And on that sub, was the Omega … ContinuedThe post Omega now rules the deep seas with the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph  Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph  It’s Mar 20, 2019

HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph 

It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has - in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons - a chronograph.  And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Thin just got complicated with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Racing Aug 21, 2018

EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course

Editor’s note: A few months ago the watch-loving world went a little nuts for the Speedmaster Ultraman. Many (many) people missed out on copping it, but if your love of retro orange highlights still burns strong, how about this automatic alternative? And while there’s a black dial on offer that looks even more ultra, we’re … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: An ultra-cool Speedy with orange details? It’s the Omega Speedmaster Racing of course appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jul 24, 2018

INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton

If watch brands were Facebook relationship statuses, Franck Muller would be “It’s complicated”. Not because the Swiss-based manufacturer has commitment problems but, rather, quite the opposite. Since its beginnings in Genthod – located in the countryside of Geneva – the innovative brand has been committed to upholding its reputation as the “Master of Complications”. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Three times the charm – the Franck Muller Vanguard Master Banker Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II Time+Tide
Casio nally though it’s nice May 28, 2018

HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II

The watch industry is a well-oiled novelty-making machine. Every year it produces a sea of new releases that quickly turns the tide of attention from the old towards the latest and greatest in the world of watchmaking. Occasionally, though, it’s nice to stop and look back on the watches that we might have missed. Watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vintage style, solid build and lume for days – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Just how thin is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic? Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic? It’s Oct 10, 2017

VIDEO: Just how thin is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic?

It’s not too hard to appreciate how thin 5.15mm is in abstract terms – it’s a shade thicker than two 20 cent pieces, FYI – and pictures of the Octo Finissimo Automatic get you a little further along the path to understanding. But short of actually having the watch in your hand or on your … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Just how thin is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 29, 2016

IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

Story in a second: The Saxonia Thin is A. Lange & Söhne design at its most pure. One of the things that makes everyone like A. Lange & Söhne as a brand (and I mean everyone, I can’t think of a single person I know who doesn’t like or respect what Lange does) is the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The pure design of the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual 4 days ago

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Twin Beat Returns 4 days ago

Vacheron Constantin’s Twin Beat Returns with 70-Day Power Reserve

First launched in 2019, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar remains one of the most fascinating watches in its category. Thanks to a movement with a secondary, low-power mode, the Twin Beat has an extended power reserve measured in months – all contained in a reasonably sized, 41 mm case. The original version of the Twin Beat was complex and finicky. Now Vacheron Constantin (VC) has refined and upgraded the movement, resulting in a second generation model with an extra five days of power reserve in Standby mode – which means the watch will run for 70 days. Initial thoughts I described the original Twin Beat as a “genuinely interesting, albeit pricey, watch”. Even though several years have passed, the Twin Beat remains genuinely interesting. It is a novel concept executed in a sophisticated manner. In contrast to majority of ultra-long power reserve watches, the Twin Beat is ordinarily sized. I am certainly glad VC has revived the concept and made it better. The original probably had a few kinks in the movement that made production difficult so the first generation never really made it to market in significant numbers. The kinks have been resolved with the new version, which is probably also more robust from a usability point of view. The same holds true today of the price, though given the overall price index of the market, the new Twin Beat is arguably less expensive in relative terms. The first generation model Two running modes On ...